One thing to consider is that the IRS allows you to use different inventory accounting methods for tax purposes like FIFO, LIFO, or specific identification. For a reseller with unique items (not identical products), specific identification usually makes the most sense. This means each item you purchase for resale has its own tracked cost basis. So in your example, the $12 sweater sold for $65 would be $53 profit, and the personal $60 sweater sold for $15 would technically be a $45 personal loss (not deductible against business income).

This is such a common challenge for resellers! I've been dealing with similar issues in my own small business. One thing that really helped me was creating a clear separation between "business purchases" and "personal items that later get sold." For business purchases, I maintain detailed records from day one - photos, receipts, storage location, listing attempts, etc. These clearly qualify for COGS treatment when sold or charitable deduction when donated unsold. For personal items that later get sold, I treat them completely separately. Like your $60 sweater example - that's a personal asset sale, not business inventory. The loss isn't deductible, but it also doesn't get mixed up with your business accounting. The gray area items (bought for business but used personally first) are the trickiest. I've found the best approach is to "convert" them out of inventory when you start personal use, then treat any later sale as personal. Document the conversion with a note about fair market value at the time. For damaged items like your laptop, if it was personal property, selling for parts is still a personal transaction. But this is where having that clear intent documentation from purchase really matters - it establishes whether something was ever business property to begin with. The key is consistency in your method and keeping contemporaneous records of your intent. Don't try to retroactively categorize things based on what's most tax-advantageous!

Don't forget that if you absolutely can't get your W2, you can file Form 4852 (Substitute for W-2) with your tax return. You'll need to estimate your wages and tax withholding as accurately as possible using your last pay stub. Not ideal, but it's there as a last resort if you truly can't get your W2s any other way.

Another option that worked for me was checking if your former employers used a payroll service like ADP or Paychex. Even after leaving on bad terms, you might still be able to access your employee portal if you remember your login credentials. Many people don't realize these accounts often stay active for a while after termination. I was able to download my W2 directly from ADP's website without having to contact my awful former boss at all. Just go to the payroll company's website and try logging in with your old credentials - worst case scenario it doesn't work, but if it does, you can get your W2 immediately.

14 Don't overthink this too much! I've been selling art at shows for years. I use my brand name on my W-9, but I've never formally registered it. The main thing is that you report all your income on your taxes. If you're a sole proprietor, it all goes on your Schedule C anyway.

Great discussion here! As someone who just went through this process myself, I'd recommend checking your state's specific DBA requirements before making any decisions. In my state, using a business name without registration is fine for tax purposes, but I ran into issues when trying to open a separate business bank account later. One thing that really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track all my art-related income and expenses from day one, regardless of what name I use on forms. This makes tax time much easier whether you're operating under your legal name or a brand name. Also, don't forget that even if you use a DBA on your W-9, you'll still need to use your legal name and SSN as the primary taxpayer information. The business name is just additional identification for their records.

I went through this exact same situation two years ago with Chase Bank. Here's what actually happened in my case: The IRS sent my refund on a Friday, Chase rejected it the following Tuesday because I had transposed two digits in my account number. It took exactly 3 weeks from the original deposit date for the IRS to mail me a paper check. The frustrating part is that "Where's My Refund" didn't update until about 2 weeks after the rejection - it kept showing "sent to your bank" the whole time. When it finally updated, it showed "Your refund check was mailed on [date]" and I received it about 5 days later. One thing that helped me was setting up Informed Delivery with USPS so I could see when mail was coming. The refund check envelope is pretty distinctive - it's a Treasury check with clear government markings, so you won't miss it. Since you're only at the one-week mark, I'd give it another week or two before panicking. The process is slow but it does work automatically once the bank rejects the deposit.

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! I also entered the wrong account number for my direct deposit (switched two digits) and have been anxiously waiting for updates. It's been about 10 days since the IRS said they sent my refund to the bank. Reading through all these responses is really reassuring - especially knowing that the process happens automatically once the bank rejects the deposit. I was worried I'd have to file some kind of paperwork or take additional steps to get a check issued. I'm definitely going to sign up for USPS Informed Delivery like Carmen suggested. That seems like a smart way to know when the check is actually coming rather than constantly refreshing the Where's My Refund tool. For anyone else in this boat - it sounds like patience is key here. The 2-4 week timeline from rejection to receiving the paper check seems to be pretty consistent based on everyone's experiences shared here.

Has anyone here back filed with just the 1040 forms from the IRS website? Or do you really need to use tax software for each specific year? Im trying to save money and wondering if I can just download the forms for each year and fill them out myself.

Just wanted to add something that might help - when you're gathering documents for back filing, make sure to check if you have any 1099s you might have forgotten about. I missed a 1099-INT from a savings account that only had like $12 in interest, but it still needed to be reported. Also, if you can't locate all your documents, you can request wage and income transcripts from the IRS for free through their website or by calling. These transcripts show what income documents were filed under your SSN for each year, which can help you identify any missing paperwork. The good news is that most people in your situation end up getting refunds for the years they didn't file, especially if you had taxes withheld from your paychecks. So don't stress too much - you're likely going to be pleasantly surprised once you get everything sorted out!