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Can you take rental income and put it into an LLC/business and then pay yourself a salary to qualify for Roth IRA?

So I've been building up my real estate portfolio with the goal of eventually living off rental income. I currently have 3 properties generating around $4300 monthly, and I'm planning to add 2 more in the next few years. My long-term plan is to retire early and just manage these properties while also growing my retirement savings. Here's my issue though - I just learned that rental income is considered "unearned income" and I can't contribute it to my Roth IRA. This really throws a wrench in my plans since I was counting on building up tax-free growth in that account. So now I'm wondering: Can I create an LLC for my rental properties, have all the income flow into that business, and then pay myself an actual salary from the LLC? Would that salary then count as "earned income" that I could use to contribute to my Roth IRA? Or is this some kind of tax loophole that the IRS would shut down immediately? Any advice from people who've dealt with this situation would be super helpful!

This is a great discussion and I've learned a lot from everyone's experiences. I'm in a similar boat with 4 rental units and have been frustrated about not being able to use that income for retirement contributions. One question I haven't seen addressed: How do you handle the transition year when you're setting up this structure? I assume you can't retroactively convert rental income from earlier in the year to "earned" management income, so would you only be able to contribute to your Roth based on the management salary earned from the date you establish the LLC forward? Also, for those who've implemented this - do you find it's worth the extra complexity and costs (additional tax filings, separate business accounts, etc.) for the ability to make Roth contributions? I'm trying to weigh whether the long-term tax-free growth benefits outweigh the administrative hassle and additional self-employment taxes.

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if all this is true and we abide by the laws... can i then set up a spousal ROTH IRa as well?

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When will my state tax refund funds actually be withdrawn from my account?

So I'm in a weird situation this year. I actually owe the state some money on my taxes (about $540), which I've never had happen before. I e-filed through TurboTax last week and set up direct withdrawal from my checking account. The confirmation email says my return was accepted, but it doesn't give a clear date on when they'll actually take the money. I'm trying to make sure I have enough in my account when they decide to withdraw it. Has anyone had experience with this? How long does it typically take for the state to pull funds from your account after accepting an e-filed return with payment? I'm in California if that matters.

Did you check the specific date you selected for the withdrawal when filing? TurboTax lets you choose a withdrawal date up to the filing deadline. If you didn't specifically change it, it probably defaulted to withdrawing right away, but you might have accidentally set a future date.

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You know what, I'm not 100% sure now that you mention it. I think I just went with whatever default date it suggested. I assumed it would be immediate but maybe I did select a specific date without realizing it. I'll need to go back and check my TurboTax submission again. That's a really good point - thanks for bringing that up!

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Just wanted to follow up with my experience for anyone else in a similar situation. I ended up checking my TurboTax account more carefully like Chloe suggested, and sure enough, I had accidentally selected a withdrawal date about 10 days after filing instead of immediate withdrawal. Once I realized that, I was able to relax and stop obsessively checking my bank account every day! The money was withdrawn exactly on the date I had originally selected. Sometimes the simplest explanation is the right one - definitely worth double-checking your selected payment date before panicking about processing times. Thanks everyone for all the helpful suggestions and resources. This community is great for getting real-world experiences with tax issues!

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How are capital gains on collectibles taxed? Flat 28% rate or does it scale like other investments?

I'm trying to figure out how capital gains tax works for collectibles and I'm getting confused by all the conflicting info online. Is the capital gains tax rate on collectibles always a flat 28% no matter what your other income is? Or does it scale from 0% upward like regular capital gains on stocks and other investments? After spending all morning reading through some really poorly written and contradictory articles, I think I've figured it out but I want to make sure: For federal taxes, collectible capital gains are taxed at your marginal tax rate but with a maximum cap of 28%. So if my marginal rate is 12%, my collectibles would be taxed at 12%, but if my marginal rate is 32%, they'd only be taxed at 28% instead. Can someone confirm if this is right? I'm selling some vintage baseball cards that have appreciated quite a bit and need to understand what I'll owe. Thanks for any help!

Does anyone know if there's a minimum threshold for reporting collectible sales? I sold a few baseball cards for like $300 profit total. Do I really need to report that?

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Technically all capital gains need to be reported regardless of amount. There's no minimum threshold like with the $600 for 1099-Ks. But realistically... well, draw your own conclusions about small amounts.

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@Eleanor Foster is right - technically there's no minimum threshold and all capital gains should be reported. Even though it's "only" $300, it's still taxable income. The good news is that if you're in a lower tax bracket, you might only owe $36-72 in taxes on that gain (12-24% rates). Keep records of your purchase prices and sale prices for the cards. You'll report it on Schedule D with your tax return. Better to be compliant, especially since the IRS has been cracking down on unreported income from online sales platforms.

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As someone who recently went through this exact situation with vintage comic books, I can confirm that your understanding is absolutely correct! Collectibles capital gains are taxed at your marginal tax rate up to a maximum of 28%. So if you're in the 12% bracket, you pay 12% on the gains. If you're in the 32% bracket, you're capped at 28%. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier - make absolutely sure you have solid documentation of your original purchase prices for those baseball cards. Unlike stocks where brokers track everything, with collectibles you're on your own for proving cost basis. I had to spend weeks digging through old price guides and auction records to establish what I paid for cards I bought 15+ years ago. Also, since you mentioned the cards have "appreciated quite a bit," consider the timing of your sale if you have any flexibility. If you expect to be in a lower tax bracket next year, it might be worth waiting since you'd pay that lower rate instead of hitting the 28% cap. The difference between 22% and 28% on substantial gains can be significant! Keep detailed records of any grading, authentication, or storage costs you've incurred - those can often be added to your cost basis and reduce your taxable gain. Good luck with the sale!

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@Dylan Evans This is really helpful practical advice! Your point about documentation being entirely on us unlike (stocks is) something I hadn t'fully appreciated. I m'just starting to think about selling some collectibles and the record-keeping aspect seems daunting - especially for items I bought years ago when I was less organized. The timing strategy you mention is really smart. I m'actually expecting a lower income year next year due to some career changes, so waiting to sell might save me several percentage points in taxes. For someone new to this, do you have any recommendations on the best resources for reconstructing historical pricing data? I have some items from the early 2000s where I m'not even sure where to start looking for what they were worth back then. Also curious about your experience with grading and authentication costs - did you find the IRS accepted those as basis additions pretty readily, or did you need special documentation beyond just keeping the receipts? Thanks for sharing your real-world experience - this thread has been incredibly educational for those of us just learning about collectibles taxation!

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@Dylan Evans @Keisha Robinson For reconstructing historical pricing data from the early 2000s, I d recommend'starting with the Wayback Machine archive.org to (look) at old eBay sold listings and price guide websites from that era. Many collectible categories also have dedicated databases - for comics there s ComicsPriceGuide.com,'for cards there s historical'Beckett data, etc. Another approach is to look at auction house records from major companies like Heritage Auctions - they keep detailed archives going back decades. Even if your exact items weren t sold,'comparable pieces can help establish fair market value ranges for that time period. For grading and authentication costs, I kept all receipts and the IRS accepted them without issue during an audit I had on unrelated matters. The key is being able to show these costs were incurred to preserve/enhance the collectible s value'rather than just routine maintenance. Professional grading clearly falls into the enhancement category "since" it creates documented authenticity and condition ratings that increase marketability. One tip - if you re missing'original purchase documentation, start gathering whatever evidence you can find now. Old credit card statements, photos with timestamps, insurance appraisals, even emails or texts with friends about purchases can all help build a defensible cost basis case. The IRS generally accepts reasonable good-faith efforts to reconstruct basis when original records are unavailable.

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IRS Said My Return Wasn't Accepted Until Mar 3 - But I Filed & Got Acceptance on Feb 13?

So I just got off the phone w/ the IRS & was told my refund wasn't accepted until March 3rd which makes absolutely no sense b/c I filed on Feb 13th & was accepted the same day per my tax software confirmation email (timestamp 14:32:07 EST). Has anyone else experienced this discrepancy between filing software acceptance date vs. what IRS claims? Need this $8,740 refund ASAP for some investment opportunities closing soon.

I understand your frustration with this situation. According to Internal Revenue Manual section 3.42.5, there are actually multiple stages of e-file acceptance. When your software says "accepted," it means the return passed initial format verification. However, per IRM procedures, the official "received date" is established only after it passes through additional security and validation filters, which can take 1-3 weeks during peak filing season. This distinction isn't well communicated to taxpayers, unfortunately.

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This is incredibly frustrating and unfortunately more common than it should be. I experienced the exact same thing two years ago - filed February 15th, got immediate acceptance from my software, but the IRS said they didn't receive it until March 8th. What made it worse was that I had claimed the Child Tax Credit and EITC, which apparently flagged my return for additional review once it actually entered their system. The whole process took nearly 12 weeks from my original filing date. I'd recommend checking your transcript like others mentioned, and if you have any refundable credits on your return, prepare for potentially longer delays. The investment opportunities you mentioned - you might want to have a backup plan since IRS timelines are completely unpredictable right now.

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Where can I find my TIN (taxpayer identification number)? Is it the same as my SSN?

Hey everyone! I'm trying to fill out some tax documents for a new job and they're asking for my TIN (taxpayer identification number). I honestly have no idea what that is or where to find it. Is this the same thing as my social security number? Or is it something completely different that I need to apply for? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm pretty confused and don't want to mess up my paperwork. The HR person just said "provide your TIN" without any explanation and I don't want to look stupid by asking them directly lol.

anyone else notice that sometimes forms ask for "SSN" and other times they ask for "TIN" even though they want the same thing? super confusing when you're filling out tax forms. why can't they just use consistent terminology??

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It's because TIN is like the umbrella term that covers different types of tax IDs. So forms that might be used by different types of taxpayers (individuals, businesses, nonresidents) will ask for "TIN" to cover all possibilities. Forms specifically for employees usually ask for SSN since that's most relevant.

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Don't worry, this isn't a dumb question at all! I was in the exact same boat when I started my first "real" job. Your TIN (Taxpayer Identification Number) is most likely your Social Security Number if you're a U.S. citizen or permanent resident. The confusion comes from the fact that TIN is basically an umbrella term - it can refer to different types of tax ID numbers depending on your situation. For most regular employees like yourself, your 9-digit SSN serves as your TIN. You can double-check this by looking at any previous tax documents you might have (like a W-2 from a part-time job) - your SSN will be listed in the TIN field. So when your HR person asks for your TIN on the tax forms, just provide your SSN. It's totally normal to be confused by tax terminology - the IRS doesn't exactly make things crystal clear with their language choices!

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Yes, absolutely! The number on your Social Security card is exactly what you should use as your TIN. That's the official number issued to you by the Social Security Administration, and it's what the IRS recognizes as your taxpayer identification number. If you want extra peace of mind, you can also verify your SSN by checking any official documents where it might appear - things like bank statements, insurance cards, or even your FAFSA if you filled one out for college. But honestly, your Social Security card is the definitive source. Just make sure you're copying it correctly (no transposed digits) when filling out your tax forms. It's a good habit to double-check the number after you write it down. Welcome to the world of taxes - it gets easier once you get familiar with the terminology!

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Yes, absolutely! If you have your Social Security card, that number is definitely what you should use as your TIN. The Social Security Administration issued that number specifically to you, so it's 100% correct to use on tax forms and employment paperwork. Since you're filing for the first time, you might also want to keep a copy of your Social Security card in a safe place and memorize the number if you haven't already - you'll be using it frequently for tax purposes, banking, and other official documents throughout your life. Just make sure to keep the physical card secure and never carry it in your wallet where it could be lost or stolen. When you complete your first W-4 form at your new job, that SSN goes right in the TIN field, and you'll be all set!

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