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Recommendations for software to prepare and e-file 1065s with multiple K-1s for startup investment LLCs

I'm managing two LLCs that were set up as investment vehicles for early-stage startups (basically SPVs). One I've been handling myself for years, but I recently had to take over another one when the management company (Assure) went under and left us hanging. Between these two entities, I'm now responsible for filing multiple 1065s and generating K-1s for around 40-50 members total. Up until now, I've been doing everything manually which has been manageable but tedious for the first LLC since our income and expenses are pretty minimal. The biggest headache is having to re-enter all the member information each year. With two LLCs now, I'm thinking it's finally time to use actual tax software that can hopefully save all this data for future filings. Both LLCs are pretty straightforward from a tax perspective - minimal expenses, occasional income from distributions when a portfolio company gets acquired, etc. I'm not looking for anything super sophisticated, just something that makes the process less painful and can handle batch creating those K-1s efficiently. Has anyone used TurboTax Business, TaxAct, H&R Block Business, or any other software for filing partnership returns with multiple K-1s? Looking for recommendations on what works well specifically for investment LLCs/SPVs. Hoping to find something that makes the process smoother and justifies the cost compared to my manual approach.

StarStrider

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Has anyone used CCH Axcess for SPVs? My CPA recommended it to me for our angel fund, but the pricing seemed outrageous for what's essentially a passive investment vehicle with 25 investors.

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CCH is definitely overkill for what you're describing. It's enterprise-level software designed for accounting firms handling hundreds of complex returns. For a couple of investment LLCs, you'd be paying for a ton of features you'll never use.

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Ava Kim

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For your situation with multiple investment LLCs and 40-50 K-1s, I'd recommend starting with TaxAct Professional as Isabella mentioned. I've been using it for my real estate investment partnerships for 3 years now, and it handles the member data carryover beautifully. The key advantage for investment vehicles is that once you set up the allocation percentages and member information, subsequent years are mostly just updating income/loss amounts and any membership changes. TaxAct's batch K-1 printing and e-filing capabilities will save you hours compared to manual preparation. One tip: when you first set it up, take the time to carefully enter all the member information including addresses and SSNs. The software will catch common errors like mismatched names/SSNs that could cause IRS notices later. For the price point (around $200-300 per return), it's a solid middle ground between DIY manual work and expensive professional software. The learning curve is pretty gentle if you're already familiar with 1065 forms, and their support is responsive when you run into questions about specific partnership allocations.

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CosmicCowboy

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm leaning toward TaxAct Professional based on the recommendations here. One question about the member data carryover - if I have members who drop out or new ones who join between tax years, how easy is it to modify the membership structure? With startup investments, we sometimes have investors sell their positions to other parties, so the K-1 recipient list can change fairly regularly.

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Eva St. Cyr

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I went through this exact scenario last year and understand the frustration completely. After getting my 846 code with a DDD of February 14th, I waited until February 17th with no deposit showing. Here's what I learned from my experience: First, I called my bank directly and asked to speak with someone in their ACH department - not just customer service. They were able to see that the Treasury payment was actually received but was being held for verification due to a slight name formatting difference between my tax return and my bank account. Second, I discovered that the IRS Where's My Refund tool sometimes shows different information than what's on your actual transcript. My transcript showed the 846 code, but WMR was still showing "being processed." The resolution took exactly 4 business days from my DDD, and the funds appeared without any additional action needed. The bank representative explained that government deposits sometimes trigger additional verification protocols, especially if there are any minor discrepancies in how your name appears. If you're still within 5 business days of your DDD, I'd recommend calling your bank's ACH department first before contacting the IRS. They can often provide more immediate answers about whether the payment was received and why it might be delayed.

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This is incredibly helpful advice! I never would have thought to ask specifically for the ACH department rather than regular customer service. That name formatting issue you mentioned makes so much sense - I recently got married and changed my name on my bank account but filed my taxes under my previous name since that's what my W-2 showed. This could definitely be what's causing my delay. Going to call my bank's ACH department first thing tomorrow morning. Thank you for sharing your detailed experience - it's exactly the kind of real-world insight I was hoping to find here!

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I've been through this exact situation twice in the past three years, and I completely understand your concern about the reliability of the DDD timeline. What I've learned is that while the 846 code is definitive proof your refund has been approved and sent, the actual deposit timing can vary significantly based on several factors beyond the IRS's control. In my experience, the most common delays occur when: 1. Your bank has additional verification procedures for government deposits over certain amounts 2. The DDD falls on or near a federal holiday, which can extend processing by 1-2 business days 3. There's a minor discrepancy in your account information that triggers a manual review I'd recommend checking your transcript one more time to ensure no additional transaction codes appeared after the 846 (like a 971 notice code), and then contact your bank's treasury or ACH department directly. They can often tell you immediately if the deposit was received and why it might be pending. The good news is that once you have that 846 code, your money is definitely coming - it's just a matter of working through the banking system's processes. Keep us updated on what you find out!

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Mei Chen

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This is such a reassuring and comprehensive breakdown of what to expect! I'm relatively new to understanding tax transcripts and codes, so knowing that the 846 code means my refund is definitely approved gives me a lot of peace of mind. Your point about checking for additional transaction codes after the 846 is particularly helpful - I hadn't thought to look for those. I'm going to follow your advice and contact my bank's ACH department tomorrow to see if there are any holds or verification procedures affecting my deposit. It's really helpful to hear from someone who's been through this multiple times and can share what actually works. Thank you for taking the time to explain all these details!

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Quick warning about cashing old bonds - the bank teller might not know how to handle them properly! When I cashed my old EE bonds, the first bank I went to reported the ENTIRE amount as interest on my 1099-INT, not just the interest portion. It was a huge headache to fix. Make sure whoever cashes them understands the difference between the principal (what you paid for the bond) and the interest (what you earned). The 1099-INT should only show the interest amount.

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This happened to me too! I ended up having to file an amended return because the bank reported it wrong. Such a pain. I recommend going to a larger bank branch where they handle bonds more frequently.

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Just to add another perspective here - if you're dealing with multiple old bonds from different years, it might be worth keeping detailed records of when you cash each one. I had EE bonds from 1991, 1992, and 1993 that I found all at once, and when I cashed them in 2023, the bank lumped all the interest together on one 1099-INT. This created some confusion because technically each bond had different interest calculation periods and rates. I ended up having to request separate documentation from the Treasury to show the breakdown for my records. Not a huge deal, but something to be aware of if you're in a similar situation with multiple bond years. Also seconding what others said about those 1992 bonds likely being done earning interest - definitely get them cashed sooner rather than later!

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TommyKapitz

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That's really helpful advice about keeping detailed records! I actually have bonds from 1991, 1992, and 1994 that I found in the same box, so this is exactly the situation I'm dealing with. Did you have any trouble with the IRS accepting your tax return when the 1099-INT amounts were all lumped together like that? I'm worried about potential discrepancies if I need to show different calculation periods for each bond year. Also, how long did it take to get the separate documentation from Treasury? I'm hoping to get this sorted before next tax season.

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Another tip - when you submit multiple Form 8889s, write "HSA 1 of 3", "HSA 2 of 3", and "HSA 3 of 3" at the top of each form. This helps the IRS understand that you're submitting multiple forms intentionally and they're all part of the same tax filing. I had a similar situation and this simple labeling prevented confusion. The IRS agent I spoke with specifically recommended this approach!

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Great suggestion, thanks! I'll definitely do this with my forms. Do you also need to include any kind of summary or explanation letter with the forms, or is just labeling them enough?

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Luca Russo

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Just labeling the forms is usually sufficient! I didn't include any additional explanation letter when I submitted my multiple HSA forms, and the IRS processed them without any issues. The numbering system (like "HSA 1 of 3") makes it clear that you're intentionally filing multiple forms for the same tax year. However, if your situation is particularly complex or if you're responding to a specific IRS notice, you might want to include a brief cover letter explaining that you're filing separate Form 8889s for each HSA account. But for most cases, the labeling alone should do the trick. The key is making sure each form is complete and accurate for its specific HSA, with the correct distributions and qualified medical expenses allocated appropriately across all forms.

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StarSeeker

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This is exactly the kind of practical advice I was looking for! I'm dealing with my first multiple HSA situation and was overthinking it. The labeling system makes so much sense - I can see how that would prevent the IRS from thinking I made duplicate filings by mistake. One follow-up question - when you say "qualified medical expenses allocated appropriately," do you mean I need to match specific expenses to specific HSA distributions, or can I just make sure the totals work out across all forms? Like if I used my Fidelity HSA for a dental bill but my Health Equity HSA for prescriptions, does it matter which expenses I report on which form as long as everything adds up correctly?

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StarStrider

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This is a common situation that many people organizing informal fundraisers face. The key thing to understand is that the IRS cares more about the economic substance of transactions than the technical flow of funds. Since you're acting as a conduit rather than the beneficial owner of the money, you generally won't owe taxes on these funds - but you need to be prepared to prove that. Here's what I'd recommend: 1. Keep detailed records of every incoming Venmo transfer with donor names and amounts 2. Document the purpose of the fundraiser (emails, social media posts, etc.) 3. Get a receipt from the charity showing the final donation amount and date 4. If you receive a 1099-K from Venmo, you can file Form 1040 with an explanation that these were pass-through funds, not income For the person receiving the final transfer, they should also document that this was collected money being donated on behalf of others, not a personal gift from you. They'll be able to claim the charitable deduction, but ethically they might want to coordinate with the original donors about this. The cleanest approach for future fundraisers would be to have people donate directly to the charity or use a platform designed for this purpose, but your current setup isn't uncommon and can be handled properly with good documentation.

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Mateo Silva

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This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the Form 1040 explanation you mentioned - do you just write a letter and attach it, or is there a specific form or line where you'd note that the 1099-K amounts were pass-through funds? I want to make sure I handle this correctly if I end up in a similar situation.

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Amina Toure

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For the Form 1040 explanation, you would typically attach a statement to your return explaining the discrepancy. You'd report the 1099-K amount as "Other Income" on Schedule 1, then subtract the same amount as "Other Adjustments" with a note like "Funds collected as agent for charity - not taxable income." Alternatively, some tax preparers recommend including a detailed statement explaining that you were acting as a conduit/agent and that the funds were immediately transferred to the intended charity. The key is creating a clear paper trail that shows you never had beneficial ownership of the money. Just make sure you have all the documentation @StarStrider mentioned - without proper records, the IRS might not accept your explanation that these were pass-through funds rather than income to you.

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Great question! I had a similar situation when I organized a fundraiser for our local food bank last year. One thing that helped me sleep better at night was creating a simple spreadsheet tracking every donation - date received, donor name (if they were comfortable sharing), amount, and any notes from the Venmo transaction. I also sent a group message to all the donors explaining that the final donation would be made by [person's name] but was funded by everyone's contributions. This way there was transparency about who would be claiming the tax deduction, and some donors were able to make direct donations to get their own receipts if they preferred. The person who made the final donation should definitely keep the charity's receipt, but consider asking the charity if they can provide a letter acknowledging that the donation came from a group fundraising effort. Some organizations are willing to do this, which helps document the true source of the funds. Also worth noting - if this becomes a regular thing you do, you might want to look into becoming a registered fundraiser in your state, as some states have requirements for people who regularly collect charitable donations on behalf of others.

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This is such a thoughtful approach! The transparency with donors about who would claim the deduction is really smart - I hadn't thought about that aspect. I'm curious about the registered fundraiser requirement you mentioned. Do you know what the threshold typically is for when that becomes necessary? Like if someone does one fundraiser a year versus multiple, or is it based on dollar amounts? I'd hate to accidentally violate state requirements while trying to help a good cause.

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