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I had the exact same thing happen to me last year! The "INFO" status with that adjustment message appeared even though I never requested anything. Turns out the IRS was just doing some routine account maintenance on their end. It cleared up after about 3 weeks and my refund processed normally. Since your previous years show $0 balances, you're probably fine - just the system being the system. But definitely keep an eye on it and maybe check back in a week or so to see if it updates.
NeonNinja
β’That's exactly what I needed to hear! π It's so frustrating when the system shows these vague messages without any real explanation. Good to know this is just routine maintenance and not something I need to panic about. I'll definitely check back in a week like you suggested. Thanks for sharing your experience!
I work as a tax preparer and see this "INFO" status frequently during this time of year. The IRS runs automated system updates in January/February to prepare for the upcoming filing season, which can temporarily lock access to account information. The fact that your 2022 and 2023 years show clean $0.00 balances is actually a good sign - it means those years are fully processed and settled. The 2024 "adjustment" message is likely just the system's way of saying "we're working on something in the background" rather than indicating any actual problem. Most of my clients who see this status have it resolve within 2-4 weeks without any action needed on their part.
This is super helpful to hear from someone who actually works in the industry! I was getting really worried that maybe there was some kind of mix-up with my account or that someone had somehow accessed it. Knowing that this is just standard system maintenance that happens every year makes me feel so much better. The fact that my previous years are clean is definitely reassuring too. Thanks for taking the time to explain what's really happening behind the scenes - it's way more informative than the vague IRS messaging! π
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Has anyone actually gotten the withholding estimator to work correctly? I'm in the same boat as OP - married filing jointly, contributing to HSA, and healthcare premiums coming out pre-tax. No matter what I do, the estimator gives me crazy numbers that don't make sense.
I gave up on the IRS estimator. Math time: If you owed $2,145 last year and nothing major changed in your tax situation, just divide that by your remaining paychecks and put THAT amount on line 4(c). Way simpler than trying to decode the IRS calculator results. For me, I just took what I owed last year, added a little buffer (like 10-15%), and spread it across my paychecks. No more surprise tax bills come April.
That's the sensible approach I'll probably take too. Sometimes the simple math works better than these complicated calculators. It's frustrating that a tool specifically designed by the IRS to help with this is so confusing!
Diego Fisher
I've been a tax preparer for over 15 years, and I can tell you that the IRS Withholding Estimator is one of the most frustrating tools out there, especially for married couples with pre-tax deductions like HSAs and health insurance. The core issue you're experiencing is that the estimator treats Step 4(a) as "additional income that needs to be taxed" rather than "income adjustments." When you entered your gross wages including pre-tax deductions, the estimator didn't realize those HSA and health insurance amounts aren't actually taxable income. Here's what I recommend to my clients in your situation: 1. **Use the simple approach**: Take your shortfall from last year ($2,145), add a small buffer (maybe $300), and divide by your remaining paychecks. Put that amount on Step 4(c) for extra withholding. 2. **Ignore Step 4(a) completely** for your situation - it's causing more confusion than help. 3. **Set a calendar reminder** for January to adjust your W-4 back down to a "maintenance" level once you've caught up on this year's shortfall. The estimator works better for simpler tax situations, but with multiple jobs, HSAs, and various pre-tax deductions, the old-fashioned math approach is often more reliable and definitely less stressful!
Ravi Kapoor
β’Thank you so much for this professional perspective! As someone new to navigating tax withholding, it's reassuring to hear from an actual tax preparer that the IRS tool is genuinely problematic and not just user error on my part. Your simple approach makes perfect sense - I think I was overthinking it by trying to make the estimator work "correctly" when clearly it's not designed for situations like mine. The math approach of taking last year's shortfall plus a buffer and spreading it across remaining paychecks is so much cleaner. One quick question: when you say "maintenance level" for January, do you mean going back to zero extra withholding, or should there typically be some ongoing extra amount to prevent the same problem next year?
For the "maintenance level," it depends on whether the underlying issue that caused your shortfall gets resolved. If your withholding was off because of the same factors (HSA contributions, health insurance premiums, etc.), you'll likely need some ongoing extra withholding, but much less than the "catch-up" amount. A good rule of thumb: take your annual shortfall (like that $2,145) and divide by all 26 paychecks for the following year. So you'd need about $83 per paycheck in extra withholding as your baseline maintenance amount. Then the catch-up amount for the remainder of this year would be higher to make up for the months you've already under-withheld. This way you're not scrambling to fix the same problem every year!
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Yuki Tanaka
Just amended my 2023 return last month. Used turbo tax and it wasnt too bad tbh
Zara Ahmed
β’did u do it yourself or get help?
Yuki Tanaka
β’Did it myself but ngl that taxr.ai thing helped alot with understanding the process
Just went through this exact situation last year! You definitely need to file the amendment separately - there's no way to combine tax years. I made the mistake of waiting thinking it would be easier and ended up paying extra interest. The good news is that if you owe money, the sooner you file the amendment, the sooner the interest stops accumulating on the additional amount. If you're getting a refund from the amendment, you'll want to file ASAP to get that money back. Don't procrastinate like I did!
Yara Sayegh
β’Thanks for sharing your experience! That's really helpful to know about the interest continuing to accumulate. I'm definitely leaning towards filing the amendment now rather than waiting. Did you end up owing money or getting a refund when you amended?
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Just a heads up, I've been doing DoorDash for 3 years now and you might not even need Form 4562 at all. If you're using the standard mileage deduction (most drivers do), you don't need to fill out 4562. Form 4562 is only required if you're taking actual expenses for your vehicle AND claiming depreciation, which is way more complicated. With standard mileage (65.5 cents/mile for 2025), depreciation is already built into that rate.
Ravi Sharma
β’This is so important! I wasted hours trying to figure out Form 4562 last year before another driver told me this same thing. Standard mileage is usually better for most delivery drivers anyway unless you have a super expensive vehicle or drive very little for very high pay.
I had the exact same frustrating experience with H&R Block last tax season! The customer service rep telling you Form 4562 won't be available until January 31st is completely wrong - that form has been available since the beginning of tax season. What's actually happening is that H&R Block's software has a built-in workflow that requires you to complete certain prerequisite steps before it unlocks Form 4562. You need to fully complete your Schedule C (business income/expenses) first, including entering all your DoorDash income and selecting that you want to claim vehicle expenses. Here's the key question though: Do you actually need Form 4562? If you're planning to use the standard mileage rate (65.5 cents per mile for 2025), you DON'T need Form 4562 at all. The depreciation is already built into that rate. You only need Form 4562 if you're using actual vehicle expenses AND want to claim depreciation, which is much more complex and often not worth it for most delivery drivers. Before you switch tax software entirely, try completing your Schedule C first with the standard mileage method. You might find that solves your problem without needing Form 4562 at all!
This is exactly the clarification I needed! I've been going in circles trying to access Form 4562 when I probably don't even need it. I think I was overcomplicating things because I assumed all business expenses required separate depreciation forms. So just to confirm - if I use the standard mileage rate for my DoorDash driving, I can skip Form 4562 entirely and just enter my total miles on Schedule C? That would definitely be much simpler than trying to calculate actual vehicle expenses and depreciation. I'm going to try completing my Schedule C with the standard mileage method first and see if that resolves everything. Thanks for breaking this down so clearly - wish H&R Block's customer service had explained it this way!
Aisha Khan
According to the IRS.gov website, offsets follow a specific priority order if you have multiple types of debt. Tax debts always get paid first, then other federal debts, then state tax debts, and finally child support. Each type uses the same TC 898 code but with different reference numbers. The IRS has a detailed FAQ page about the refund offset process here: https://www.irs.gov/taxtopics/tc203. The Bureau of Fiscal Service handles the actual offset program, and they're required to send you a notice after the offset occurs explaining what happened to your refund.
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Mateo Perez
Thanks for posting this question - I've been wondering about the same thing! As someone who's dealt with IRS transcript codes before, I can confirm that TC 898 is indeed the key code to watch for. One thing I'd add is that if you're proactively monitoring for potential offsets, you might also see TC 971 (notice issued) appear on your transcript before the actual offset happens - this usually corresponds to when they send out notices about pending collection actions. The timing can vary, but typically the TC 971 appears 2-4 weeks before the TC 898 offset code. Also, if you have installment agreements in place, make sure they're current because even one missed payment can trigger an offset of your refund. The IRS doesn't always distinguish between "active" payment plans and ones that are technically in default due to missed payments.
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Ana ErdoΔan
β’This is really helpful information about the TC 971 appearing before the offset! I'm new to understanding transcript codes and this gives me a better timeline to watch for. Quick question - if someone has an installment agreement that's current, does that completely prevent refund offsets, or can the IRS still take refunds even with an active payment plan? I'm trying to understand if having a payment agreement provides any protection for future refunds or if they can still grab them regardless.
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