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Ask the community...

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Yara Elias

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I'd lean toward waiting for the official notice, but with a twist - use this time productively! Calculate exactly what you owe on that missing 1099 (including self-employment tax if applicable) and set the money aside now. That way, when the CP2000 notice arrives, you can respond immediately and minimize interest accumulation. The 420 code usually means they're just matching information returns, so they'll likely propose a straightforward adjustment rather than a full audit. One thing to watch for on your transcript is whether any additional codes appear - if you see a 971 notice indicator code pop up, that means a notice is being generated. This approach gives you the best of both worlds: you're prepared to act quickly while avoiding the potential processing conflicts that can happen when you amend during an active examination.

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Oscar Murphy

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This is really solid advice! I'm curious though - when you mention calculating the self-employment tax, does that apply even if the missing 1099 was from freelance work that was already reported as business income on Schedule C? I'm trying to understand if the SE tax would be additional on top of the regular income tax, or if it's already factored in when you file as self-employed. Also, how quickly after seeing a 971 code should someone expect to receive the actual notice in the mail?

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Great question about the SE tax! If you already filed a Schedule C for your freelance business but missed reporting one of the 1099s, you'll owe both additional income tax AND additional self-employment tax on that missing income. The SE tax is calculated on your total net earnings from self-employment, so any unreported 1099 income increases that base. For the 971 code timing, I typically see the physical notice arrive 7-14 days after the code appears on the transcript, though it can vary by processing center. One tip: if you see a 971 code with a notice date, you can often call the IRS and reference that date to get details about what's coming before the letter arrives in your mailbox.

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Summer Green

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I've been through this exact scenario twice in the past three years, and I'd strongly recommend waiting for the official notice. Here's why: the 420 code typically indicates they're cross-referencing your return against third-party information (like that missing 1099), but they haven't determined their next steps yet. In both my cases, I received a CP2000 notice about 4-6 weeks after the 420 code appeared, proposing adjustments that were actually less than what I calculated I owed - apparently they made some beneficial adjustments I hadn't considered. One thing I learned is to check your transcript weekly once you see that 420 code. Look for any additional codes like 971 (notice issued) or 922 (examination). If you see a 570 code, that usually means they're holding your account while they work on the adjustment. The key advantage of waiting is that when you respond to their CP2000, you can either agree with their calculation (often the simplest route) or provide additional documentation if needed. Filing an amendment now might actually complicate things since you'd have two processes running simultaneously. Plus, if they're planning a simple adjustment rather than a full examination, your proactive amendment could inadvertently trigger more scrutiny. Just make sure you have the funds ready to pay whatever you owe once the notice arrives - that's the best way to minimize interest and penalties.

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This is incredibly helpful - thank you for sharing your real experience! I'm particularly interested in your mention that the IRS proposed adjustments were actually less than what you calculated. Could you elaborate on what kind of "beneficial adjustments" they made that you hadn't considered? Were these things like additional deductions they applied, or calculation corrections in your favor? I'm in a similar situation and trying to understand if there are legitimate reasons beyond just avoiding processing conflicts to wait for their calculation rather than doing my own amendment.

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Miguel Harvey

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According to the IRS operations page (https://www.irs.gov/newsroom/irs-operations), they're still experiencing delays with paper submissions. If you need to check on your prior year return status, calling the normal IRS number is frustrating - I spent 3+ hours on hold last month. I used Claimyr (https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c) to connect with an agent in about 15 minutes instead. They confirmed my 2019 return was received but flagged for manual review due to a prior year credit carryover. At least I knew what was happening instead of wondering.

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Ashley Simian

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Is this service actually worth paying for? Seems like you're just paying to cut in line ahead of people who are waiting on hold. I'm not sure how I feel about that ethically.

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Ashley Simian

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Have you considered using the Taxpayer Advocate Service? Compared to waiting indefinitely, TAS can sometimes intervene if you're facing a financial hardship due to delayed processing. Unlike just calling the IRS, they have case advocates who can look into specific issues and sometimes expedite processing. Their threshold for "hardship" is lower than most people realize - potential eviction, utility shutoff, or inability to pay medical expenses all qualify.

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Can TAS help with penalties? My late filing has penalties. Wondering if they negotiate those. Anyone know?

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PixelPioneer

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@Jasmine Hernandez TAS can help with penalty abatement requests, especially if you have reasonable cause like (medical issues, natural disasters, or IRS processing delays that contributed to the late filing .)They can t'automatically remove penalties, but they can advocate for you during the abatement process and help ensure your case gets proper consideration. For first-time penalty relief, you might not even need TAS - the IRS often grants those automatically if you call and request it.

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Lourdes Fox

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Has anyone used an online promissory note or do you need to get a lawyer involved? I'm in a similar situation with my daughter but trying to keep costs minimal as we're only talking about a $200k loan.

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I used an online template for a family loan of $150k and had significant problems. The template didn't include state-specific requirements, and when my son later applied for a business loan, their bank wouldn't recognize our loan documentation. We ended up having to redo everything with an attorney anyway, which cost more in the long run.

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One thing I'd add to consider is the impact on your son's debt-to-income ratio for future lending. When we did a similar loan with our daughter, we discovered that some lenders treat family loans differently than traditional mortgages when calculating DTI for subsequent loans or refinancing. Also, regarding the "hassle" factor you mentioned - while there is paperwork involved, the annual savings of $25-30k you mentioned would more than justify the setup costs. Even if he refinances in 2-3 years when rates drop, you'd still save significant money during that period. Just make sure to discuss what happens if rates do drop significantly and he wants to refinance early. Will there be prepayment penalties? Having those terms clear upfront prevents awkward conversations later.

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That's a really good point about the DTI impact that I hadn't thought of. As someone new to this whole family lending thing, I'm wondering - would it help if the loan document specifically states it's subordinate to any future mortgage refinancing? Or does that create other complications? Also, regarding prepayment penalties, wouldn't having a penalty actually hurt the parent since they'd want maximum flexibility if their own financial situation changes? I'm trying to understand the balance between protecting both parties while keeping things simple.

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm actually in a very similar situation - my spouse and I are planning to purchase two EVs this year and file jointly. Reading through everyone's experiences has cleared up a lot of my confusion. One additional consideration I wanted to mention is the point-of-sale rebate option that started in 2024. Instead of waiting until tax time to claim the credit, you can now transfer it directly to the dealer for an immediate discount at purchase. This might be especially useful if you're buying two vehicles and want to reduce the upfront cost. However, I've heard that if you use the point-of-sale option and later discover you weren't actually eligible (due to income limits or vehicle eligibility changes), you'd have to pay the IRS back. So there's a bit of a trade-off between getting the money upfront versus waiting to claim it on your return when you're more certain about your final tax situation. For those of you who successfully claimed credits for two vehicles, did any of you use the point-of-sale option, or did you all wait until filing your returns? I'm trying to decide which approach makes more sense for our situation. Also, @416a9f18d66b (Aria), definitely recommend getting that written confirmation from dealers that others mentioned. The eligibility rules really do change frequently, and having documentation could save you headaches later!

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@92a0f5ebd644 Great point about the point-of-sale option! I'm actually new to this community but have been lurking and learning so much from everyone's experiences. As someone who's just starting to research EV purchases for my family, the point-of-sale rebate sounds appealing for cash flow reasons, but you're absolutely right about the risk. If our income ends up being higher than expected or if vehicle eligibility changes after purchase, having to pay back $15,000 (for two vehicles) to the IRS sounds like a nightmare. I'm leaning toward the traditional route of claiming the credits at tax time, especially since we won't know our final MAGI until the end of the year. Plus, it seems like from this thread that the traditional method is pretty straightforward with tax software. Has anyone here had experience with dealers pushing the point-of-sale option? I'm wondering if some dealers prefer it because they get paid immediately rather than waiting for customers to get their tax refunds and potentially spend that money elsewhere. Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing your experiences - this has been incredibly educational for a newcomer like me!

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Welcome to the community! As someone who just went through this exact situation with my partner last year, I can confirm that married couples filing jointly can absolutely claim EV tax credits for two vehicles purchased in the same year. We bought a Hyundai Ioniq 5 and a Volkswagen ID.4 and successfully claimed both credits on our joint return. A few key takeaways from our experience: **Vehicle titling is flexible** - We had one car in my name and one in both our names. The IRS doesn't care about the title arrangement as long as you're the original purchaser and it's for personal use. **Documentation is crucial** - Keep everything organized: purchase agreements, VINs, delivery dates, and any dealer communications about eligibility. We actually created a dedicated folder for all EV-related tax documents. **Income timing matters** - Since you mentioned planning purchases "within the next few months," consider your annual income flow. If you're close to the $300k MAGI limit for joint filers, the timing of bonuses, stock options, or other income could affect your eligibility. **Vehicle-specific eligibility changes** - Both the Model Y and Mach-E have had varying eligibility depending on manufacturing dates and trim levels. I'd strongly recommend verifying current eligibility status right before purchase, not just during your initial research. The filing process itself was straightforward - just two Form 8936s that our tax software handled easily. Best financial decision we made last year! Feel free to ask if you have any other questions about the process.

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This is such a helpful breakdown, @17f95d4ab17e! I'm new to this community and currently researching EV purchases with my spouse. Your point about creating a dedicated folder for EV tax documents is brilliant - I wouldn't have thought of that but it makes so much sense given how complex the eligibility requirements seem to be. I'm curious about your experience with the Hyundai Ioniq 5 and VW ID.4 specifically. Did both vehicles qualify for the full $7,500 credit, or were there differences in the amounts based on the battery sourcing requirements? I've been reading that some vehicles only qualify for partial credits now due to the new manufacturing and battery component rules. Also, when you say "vehicle-specific eligibility changes," how frequently are we talking? Should I be checking eligibility weekly, monthly, or just right before I'm ready to sign paperwork? I want to make sure I'm not caught off guard by any last-minute changes. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who successfully navigated this process!

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This is a great question that many foreign investors struggle with! I'm also a European investor in US stocks and went through this same confusion last year. Even though your stocks don't currently pay dividends, you'll still need to submit the W-8BEN form to your broker. This form serves as your certification that you're a non-US person for tax purposes, and most brokers require it regardless of whether your current holdings pay dividends or not. The reason is that the form establishes your tax status for your entire investment account. Your stocks might start paying dividends in the future, or you might buy dividend-paying stocks later. Having the W-8BEN on file from the beginning prevents any complications down the road. For capital gains when you sell, the good news is that as a non-US resident, you generally won't owe US capital gains tax on your stock sales. This is typically covered by the tax treaty between your European country and the US. You'll only need to report and pay taxes on those gains in your home country according to your local tax laws. I'd recommend getting the W-8BEN filed sooner rather than later - it's valid for 3 years and will give you peace of mind that your tax status is properly established with your broker.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm just starting to invest in US stocks from the UK and was wondering about the same thing. Quick question - do I need to submit the W-8BEN before I make my first purchase, or can I do it after? My broker mentioned something about it but I wasn't sure if it was urgent since I'm only planning to buy non-dividend stocks initially. Also, when you mention tax treaties, does that mean I don't need to worry about any US tax reporting at all when I sell, or are there still some situations where I might need to file something with the IRS?

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Great question! From my experience, it's definitely better to submit the W-8BEN before making your first purchase if possible. Some brokers will actually hold up your trades or default to the highest withholding rates until they have the form on file. Even though you're planning non-dividend stocks initially, having it sorted upfront saves potential headaches. Regarding US tax reporting - in most cases as a UK resident, you won't need to file anything with the IRS for standard stock sales. The US-UK tax treaty generally exempts you from US capital gains tax on portfolio investments. However, there are a few exceptions to be aware of: if you're considered to have a US trade or business, if you spend significant time in the US (substantial presence test), or if you invest in certain specialized securities. For typical buy-and-hold stock investing though, you should only need to report the gains on your UK tax return. I'd still recommend double-checking your specific situation, especially if your circumstances are complex, but for straightforward stock investing from the UK, it's usually quite manageable!

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Miguel Ortiz

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I went through this exact same situation a few months ago as a non-US investor from Canada. Even though my stocks didn't pay dividends at the time, my broker still required the W-8BEN form to establish my foreign tax status. The key thing to understand is that the W-8BEN isn't just about current dividend income - it's about establishing your overall tax classification with your broker. This becomes important for several reasons: your stocks might start paying dividends later, you might purchase dividend-paying stocks in the future, or there could be other US-source income events that require proper withholding. When I eventually sold some of my positions, I didn't have to pay any US capital gains tax thanks to the Canada-US tax treaty. I only had to report the gains on my Canadian tax return. The W-8BEN had already established that I was a non-resident alien, so there were no complications with the broker or any unexpected withholding. My advice would be to go ahead and submit the W-8BEN form now, even before you need it. It's valid for three years and will prevent any issues down the road. Most brokers make it pretty straightforward to complete through their online platforms, and it's much easier to do it proactively rather than scrambling to get it done later when you actually need it.

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Natalie Wang

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This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the exact same process! I'm actually in a similar boat - Canadian investor looking at US stocks. Quick question: when you filled out the W-8BEN, did you run into any issues with the tax treaty section? I've been reading through the form and Part II seems a bit confusing for claiming treaty benefits when you don't currently have dividend income. Did you still fill out that section, or did you leave it blank since you weren't receiving dividends at the time? Also, when you sold your positions, did your broker automatically handle everything correctly, or did you need to do anything special to make sure the treaty benefits applied?

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