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One more thing to keep in mind - make sure you keep all the documentation from the charity event! You'll need the receipt showing the amount you paid, the fair market value of the item, and confirmation that the organization told you the deductible portion. The IRS requires written acknowledgment from the charity for any contribution over $250, and for quid pro quo contributions (where you get something in return) like your auction purchase, they must provide a good faith estimate of the value of goods or services you received. Since your total payment was $1100, you definitely need that written documentation to support the $250 deduction.
Great question about silent auction deductions! I went through something similar last year with my daughter's dance studio fundraiser. What really helped me was understanding that the charity is required to provide you with a written acknowledgment that clearly states both the amount you paid AND the fair market value of what you received. Since your payment was over $250, they're legally required to give you this documentation. If that thank you letter was incomplete, I'd definitely follow up with the school's fundraising coordinator to get the complete acknowledgment. They should have a standard form they use for auction winners that breaks down exactly what portion is tax-deductible. Also, keep your auction paddle number and any bidding sheets if you have them - sometimes the IRS wants to see the complete paper trail showing you actually participated in a legitimate auction rather than just making a purchase. Good luck with your taxes!
That's really helpful advice about following up for the complete documentation! I didn't realize they were legally required to provide that breakdown for payments over $250. I'll definitely contact the school's fundraising office to get the proper acknowledgment form. Quick question - you mentioned keeping the auction paddle number and bidding sheets. I think I still have my paddle number somewhere, but I'm not sure about bidding sheets. Do you know if those are absolutely necessary, or would the final receipt with my paddle number be sufficient to show I participated in the actual auction?
Fyi filing jointly isn't always better!! My wife and I actually paid MORE taxes when we filed jointly our first year because of something called the "marriage penalty" - it happens when both spouses have similar high incomes. We would've saved almost $3000 if we'd done married filing separately. Def worth running the numbers both ways before deciding!!!
This is important advice. I work in payroll and see this all the time. Marriage penalty hits hardest when both spouses earn similar amounts above about $80k each. If one spouse earns significantly more than the other, you usually benefit from filing jointly.
This is really helpful - I had no idea about the marriage penalty! My husband and I both make around $85k each, so we definitely need to calculate both ways. Is there an easy way to figure out which filing status saves more money, or do you basically have to prepare your taxes both ways to compare? Also, @Dyllan Nantx, just to echo what everyone else said - you're totally fine to file jointly! The legal marriage date is August, which is what matters. The certificate delay won't cause any issues with the IRS.
For calculating both filing statuses, most tax software lets you compare married filing jointly vs married filing separately pretty easily. TurboTax, H&R Block, and FreeTaxUSA all have comparison features built in. You just enter all your info once and they'll show you the tax owed under both scenarios. If you're doing it manually or want a quick estimate, the IRS has worksheets in Publication 17 that can help you figure out which saves more. But honestly, with your income levels ($85k each), you'll probably want to run the full calculations since you're right in that marriage penalty zone where it could go either way depending on your deductions and other factors.
Here's what happens after verification based on my research: 1. Your verification status is updated in the IRS internal system (1-3 days) 2. Your return is released from the verification hold (3-5 days) 3. Normal processing resumes where it left off (varies) 4. WMR updates (usually after transcript) 5. Transcript codes update to show processing status The most reliable indicator is checking for code 570 (hold) being replaced by 571 (hold released) on your account transcript.
The timeline can definitely vary, but based on what I've seen in the community, you're looking at roughly 2-3 weeks after verification for things to start moving again. The key thing to remember is that verification just removes the hold - your return then goes back into the regular processing queue where it left off. Since you just verified yesterday, I'd give it at least a week before expecting any transcript changes. The WMR tool is notoriously slow to update compared to transcripts, so focus on checking your account transcript (not return transcript) for codes 570/571 as Andre mentioned above. For your Q2 investment planning, I'd personally budget for at least 3-4 weeks total from your verification date to be safe, though it could be sooner.
This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation where I verified my identity about 10 days ago and have been anxiously checking my transcript daily. Based on what you and Andre mentioned about the 570/571 codes, I just checked my account transcript and I'm still showing code 570. Should I be concerned that it's been over a week, or is this still within the normal timeframe? Also, when you mention focusing on the account transcript vs return transcript, is there a specific reason the account transcript updates faster with these processing codes?
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - beware of the "Currently Not Collectible" status these companies often push. It might sound great (the IRS agrees not to collect from you temporarily), but the 10-year clock keeps running AND interest and penalties keep accumulating! Sometimes it makes more sense to set up even a small payment plan to start chipping away at the debt. For 2012-2014, if you haven't filed yet, file ASAP. The assessment date (which starts the 10-year clock) begins when you file and the IRS processes your return. So those years aren't even on the clock yet. I'd recommend calling the IRS Taxpayer Advocate Service. They're independent from the IRS collection division and can give you free guidance. Their number is 877-777-4778.
I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - owe about $28,000 for 2020-2022 and just got the levy notice last week. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful, especially learning about the 10-year rule and how it actually works. I called one of those tax relief companies too and they wanted $3,200 upfront after a $500 "consultation fee." After reading everyone's experiences here, I'm definitely not going that route. Question for those who've been through this - how urgent is it really to act on the levy notice? Mine says "Final Notice - Intent to Levy" and gives me 30 days. I'm trying to decide between finding a local EA or attempting to call the IRS directly. The idea of waiting hours on hold is daunting, but the Claimyr service mentioned above sounds interesting if it actually works. Also, has anyone here actually had their bank account levied? I'm terrified they'll clean out my checking account before I can get this sorted out. We have about $3,000 in there which is basically our rent and grocery money for the month. Thanks everyone for sharing your real experiences - it's so much more helpful than the scary marketing from these tax relief companies.
The Final Notice - Intent to Levy is serious, but you do have that 30-day window to act. Don't panic, but don't wait until the last minute either. During those 30 days, the IRS cannot proceed with the levy, so you have time to get things sorted. I'd recommend trying to contact the IRS directly first - either through traditional calling (yes, the wait times are brutal) or using one of those callback services others mentioned. If you can get through, ask for an immediate hold on collection activities while you work out a payment plan. This buys you more time and stops the levy process. Bank levies do happen, but usually the IRS will start with income/wage garnishments first since they're easier to process. Still, protect that $3,000 by acting within your 30-day window. A few quick steps you can take right now: 1. Gather all your tax documents and financial information 2. Calculate what you can realistically pay monthly 3. Consider requesting an installment agreement online through IRS.gov if your situation is straightforward 4. If it's complex, find a local EA but don't pay the huge upfront fees these national companies want You've got this - just don't let the fear paralyze you into inaction during your 30-day window.
Paolo Romano
Someone posted about this same Form 8453 stock sale issue in r/tax last week! The consensus there was also that you don't need to mail anything if under $10M in sales. One important detail though - make sure the summary info you entered matches what's on your 1099-B exactly. If your basis, proceeds, or gain/loss amounts don't match what your broker reported to the IRS, you could get a CP2000 notice later asking about the discrepancy. I made that mistake last year when I rounded some numbers and got a lovely letter from the IRS 8 months later questioning the difference (even though it was like $12 total difference in tax owed).
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Dmitry Ivanov
ā¢That's a good point about matching the 1099-B exactly. I did make sure all my summary numbers match the totals on my 1099-B statements exactly, down to the penny. I triple-checked the proceeds, cost basis, and gain/loss amounts before submitting. Does TurboTax usually handle the summary entry correctly? I noticed they have separate fields for covered and non-covered securities, short-term and long-term transactions, etc. I just want to make sure I filled everything out properly.
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Paolo Romano
ā¢TurboTax does handle the summary entry correctly as long as you put the right numbers in the right fields. The separation of covered/non-covered securities and short/long-term transactions is exactly what the IRS wants to see. Just make sure you're using the actual totals from the 1099-B summary page rather than adding up all the individual transactions yourself, as sometimes the broker's calculation methods might differ slightly from manual addition. Also double-check that you've properly categorized everything as short-term vs long-term based on holding period. If everything matches your 1099-B summary page, you should be good to go with no need to mail anything in.
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Amina Diop
Does anyone know if this same $10M rule applies to crypto transactions? My tax software (not TurboTax) is giving me a similar message about mailing in statements for my crypto trading, but I only had about $25k in total crypto sales last year.
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Amina Diop
ā¢Thanks for the info! My exchange (Coinbase) sent me a 1099-B this year with basis information included for most transactions. Sounds like I don't need to mail anything in after all. One more question though - for the few transactions where basis wasn't reported to the IRS (it says "basis not reported to IRS" on the form), should I be doing anything different with those?
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Ethan Scott
ā¢For transactions where basis wasn't reported to the IRS, you'll need to report those on Form 8949 instead of using the summary method on Schedule D. Even though you don't need to mail anything in, you should keep detailed records of your purchase dates, amounts, and basis calculations for those specific transactions. The IRS requires more detailed reporting when basis isn't provided to them by the exchange. You can still e-file everything - just make sure those non-basis-reported transactions are properly documented on Form 8949 with the appropriate code in column (f) indicating that basis was not reported to the IRS. This is pretty common with crypto since exchanges only started providing comprehensive 1099-B forms recently. As long as your total volume is under $10M, no mailing is required, but having good records is crucial for the non-basis-reported transactions.
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