Did your letter mention anything about interest being included with the refund? When the IRS sends refunds for prior tax years, they actually have to pay you interest too, which is kinda cool. Downside is that the interest is taxable income you'll need to report on your taxes for this year.

This exact thing happened to me with my 2020 return! Got a CP12 notice out of nowhere saying they made adjustments that resulted in a refund. Turns out they caught that I had miscalculated my Earned Income Tax Credit - I was actually eligible for more than I claimed. The whole process was surprisingly smooth once I verified it was legitimate. Like others mentioned, check for the official notice number and your correct tax info. If everything looks right, you really don't need to do anything except wait for the refund. One thing to keep in mind - if you used a tax preparer for that return, you might want to let them know about the adjustment so they can avoid the same mistake on future returns. The IRS is pretty good at catching these computational errors, but it's better to get it right the first time!

Does anyone know if the insurance company sends the 1095-B directly to the IRS too? I got mine with incorrect info but never bothered to get it fixed since I thought it was just for my records.

I went through almost the exact same situation last year with multiple employers and HSA eligibility confusion. What helped me was creating a detailed timeline of my coverage periods with documentation from each employer's HR department confirming the exact dates I was enrolled in their HDHP plans. When I called my insurance company about incorrect 1095-B forms, I found it helpful to have my enrollment dates and plan details ready before the call. The first rep I spoke with was also confused, but when I escalated to a supervisor and explained that the incorrect form could impact my HSA tax reporting, they were much more helpful and issued a corrected form within a week. Since you contributed $5,800 to your HSA, make sure you calculate your prorated contribution limit correctly on Form 8889. With your coverage gap in March and switching between plans, you'll want to be precise about which months you were actually covered by an HDHP to avoid any issues with excess contributions.

WATCH OUT with these repayments! I did something similar and didn't realize there were SPECIFIC CODES that needed to be used when repaying. My repayment got coded as a regular contribution instead of a rollover/CARES repayment, and it caused a huge headache with both the IRS and my tax filing. Make sure whatever financial institution you use for the repayment understands it's specifically a CARES Act repayment. Get written confirmation of how they coded it. Also, keep ALL your documentation showing the original distribution and the repayment for at least 7 years - I got audited on mine and was glad I had everything.

This is exactly why I love this community - so many helpful real-world experiences! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with a twist. My wife took her CARES Act distribution in late 2020, and we're now in 2023 getting close to that 3-year deadline. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing aspect. Since you spread the income over 3 years (2020-2022), make sure you understand which tax years you'll need to amend. If you repay before the end of 2023, you can still file amended returns for all the years you reported the income. Also, I called my local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center and they mentioned that some people are running into issues where their original 401k providers are claiming they can't locate the distribution records from 2020. Might be worth getting copies of all your original distribution paperwork from Fidelity before you start the repayment process, just in case you need to prove the connection between the original distribution and your repayment. The clock is ticking for all of us 2020 CARES Act folks, so definitely don't wait much longer!

This whole thread has been super enlightening! I had no idea about the Intuit acquisition and divestiture story - that totally explains the confusion. I'm in a similar boat as some of you - been paying TurboTax's higher tiers for years ($120-150 annually) mostly out of habit and fear of missing something important. But after reading everyone's experiences, I think I'm going to give Cash App Taxes a try this year. My situation is pretty straightforward - W-2 income, some investment gains/losses, mortgage interest, and charitable deductions. Nothing too exotic. If I can save over $100 and it handles these basic scenarios well, that seems like a no-brainer. One thing that gives me confidence is hearing from people who actually made the switch and had success. Sometimes these threads are all theoretical, but it's helpful to hear real experiences from @Leo McDonald and @Esmeralda Gómez about the transition process. Thanks everyone for the detailed breakdown - this saved me a lot of research time!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I've been in the exact same situation - using TurboTax for years and getting frustrated with the constant upselling and fees, but not knowing what alternatives were actually legitimate and reliable. The whole story about Intuit acquiring Credit Karma but having to sell off the tax portion to Square/Block is fascinating. I had no idea about the antitrust requirements that led to that divestiture. It totally makes sense why there seemed to be this weird contradiction of the same company offering both expensive and free tax services. I'm definitely going to try Cash App Taxes this year. My situation is pretty standard - W-2 income, some stock transactions, student loan interest, and standard deductions. Based on everyone's experiences here, it sounds like Cash App Taxes should handle that easily while saving me the $89+ I usually pay for TurboTax. The tip about keeping your previous year's return open while using the new software is really smart. That would give me confidence I'm not missing anything during the transition. Thanks to everyone who shared their real experiences - it's way more valuable than just reading generic reviews online!

One thing nobody mentioned - you need to be careful about material participation rules with that K-1. If you're not spending enough time managing the property, the IRS might classify your activity as passive and limit your ability to deduct those losses against your W-2 income. I learned this the hard way!

Definitely report that K-1 loss! At your income level ($72k), you should qualify for the active participation exception that allows you to deduct rental losses against ordinary income. Even if you only save $800-900 in taxes, that's still much better than paying an accountant $250 for nothing. The key is making sure you meet the "active participation" test - this just means you're involved in management decisions like approving tenants, setting rental terms, or approving repairs (which it sounds like you are). You don't need to do the day-to-day work yourself. Also, even if you couldn't use the loss this year, you'd want to report it anyway to establish the loss carryforward for future years. Don't leave money on the table!