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Adding to what others have shared - I'm a CPA and deal with EIN applications regularly for my clients. The missing date really isn't going to be an issue for processing. The IRS SS4 form has evolved over the years, and while the date field exists, it's not one of the critical validation points they use. The most important elements they look for are: complete business information, proper entity type selection, valid responsible party details, and that signature. Your application will almost certainly process normally. That said, if you're concerned about timing (especially since you mentioned needing it for a bank account), I'd suggest calling the IRS in about 2-3 weeks to check status rather than immediately resubmitting. Duplicate applications can sometimes cause more delays than missing dates. One pro tip for the future - if you ever need to submit tax forms again, consider reviewing them the next day with fresh eyes before sending. I catch way more errors that way than trying to proof everything in one sitting. Good luck with your new business venture!
Thank you so much for the professional perspective! As someone who's completely new to business paperwork, it's incredibly reassuring to hear from a CPA that this isn't as catastrophic as I thought. Your tip about reviewing forms the next day is gold - I definitely rushed through the final review because I was excited to get everything submitted. I'll definitely use that approach for future forms. I think I'll follow your advice and wait 2-3 weeks before calling to check status rather than panicking and resubmitting immediately. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise!
I totally understand the panic you're feeling! I went through something similar when I was setting up my consulting business last year. I actually made an even more embarrassing mistake - I accidentally wrote my personal SSN instead of leaving it blank for the business entity section and didn't catch it until after I'd already faxed it. From what I've learned through that experience and talking to other small business owners, the IRS is surprisingly forgiving with these kinds of administrative oversights on SS4 forms. The date field, while included on the form, isn't one of the critical elements that would cause an automatic rejection. The key things they really care about are having a complete signature, accurate business information, and proper entity classification. As long as you've got those covered (which it sounds like you do), you should be in good shape. My recommendation would be to wait about 2-3 weeks and then call to check on the status rather than immediately resubmitting. That way you can confirm they received it and are processing it normally. If for some reason there is an issue, they can guide you on the best way to handle it at that point. Don't beat yourself up too much about this - these forms can be tricky even when you're being super careful. The fact that you triple-checked everything else shows you were being thorough. Best of luck with your new side business!
Holly, thank you for sharing your story! It actually makes me feel so much better knowing that even more significant mistakes (like the SSN mix-up) can get worked out. I'm definitely learning that the IRS seems to be more understanding about these administrative errors than I initially thought. Your advice to wait and call for status rather than immediately panic-resubmitting really resonates with me. I think I was so focused on trying to "fix" it immediately that I didn't consider that might actually create more problems. I'll definitely follow the 2-3 week timeline you and others have suggested. It's also reassuring to hear from someone who successfully got through a similar situation. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience and the encouragement about not beating myself up over it!
I'm in a very similar situation with base + commissions and went through this exact analysis last year. The key insight everyone's touched on is correct - you can't just choose to receive part of your W-2 compensation as 1099. The IRS has strict rules about employee vs contractor classification. What I found most helpful was using Form W-4's line 4(c) to add extra withholding on my regular paychecks to offset the overwithholding on commission checks. My HR department explained that large commission payments often trigger the highest withholding rates because payroll systems assume that's your regular income level. I calculated my expected annual tax liability and divided it by my total expected paychecks (including commission frequency). Then I adjusted my regular paycheck withholding to make up the difference. This smoothed out my cash flow significantly without changing my total tax burden. Also worth noting - even if you could go 1099, you'd face the 15.3% self-employment tax on top of income tax, plus quarterly estimated payments. For most commission structures, the math doesn't work out favorably compared to optimized W-2 withholding.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I'm dealing with the exact same issue - my commission checks get hammered with withholding because payroll treats them like regular income. Could you walk me through how you calculated the right amount for line 4(c)? I'm worried about getting it wrong and either owing a huge tax bill or still overwithholding. Did you use any specific tools or just work with a tax professional to figure out the numbers?
@Victoria Brown I d'be happy to break down the calculation! Here s'the basic approach I used: 1. Estimate your total annual income base (+ expected commissions 2.) Calculate your expected annual tax liability using tax tables or software 3. Divide that by your total number of paychecks for the year 4. Compare that to what s'currently being withheld from your regular non-commission (paychecks) 5. The difference goes on line 4 c(For) example, if your expected annual tax is $30,000 and you get paid bi-weekly 26 (paychecks ,)you need about $1,154 withheld per paycheck on average. If your regular paychecks only withhold $800, you d'put $354 in line 4 c(.)I used the IRS withholding calculator initially, but honestly the taxr.ai tool that @Connor Murphy mentioned earlier made this way easier - it did all the math automatically based on my commission schedule. The key is being conservative with your commission estimates so you don t underwithhold.'Start with a rough calculation and you can always adjust your W-4 again if needed after a few paychecks!
I went through this exact same situation about two years ago when my commissions started hitting $8-10k quarterly. Like others have mentioned, you can't just choose to switch part of your compensation to 1099 - that's determined by your actual work relationship, not tax preferences. What really helped me was working with my payroll department to understand exactly how they calculate withholding on commission checks. Most systems use the "aggregate method" which basically assumes your commission check represents your new regular income level and withholds accordingly. That's why it feels like you're losing half of those big quarterly bonuses. The solution that worked for me was adjusting my W-4 withholding on regular paychecks to account for the overwithholding on commissions. I used last year's tax return to estimate my total annual liability, then calculated how much should be withheld per paycheck versus what was actually happening. The difference went into the "extra withholding" line on my W-4 for regular paychecks. It took a couple quarters to dial in the right numbers, but now my cash flow is much more predictable. I still get a small refund at tax time rather than owing, but I'm not giving the IRS a massive interest-free loan anymore. The key is being conservative with your commission estimates - better to slightly overwithhold than get hit with a surprise tax bill.
This is such great advice! I'm just starting to deal with this issue as my commissions are ramping up. Quick question - when you say you worked with your payroll department to understand their calculation method, were they actually helpful? Mine seems pretty clueless about anything beyond basic payroll processing. Did you have to escalate to someone specific, or do most HR/payroll teams actually understand these withholding nuances? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth pushing harder with them or if I should just focus on the W-4 adjustments you mentioned.
Just wanted to add one more consideration that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you're aware of the quarterly payment due dates if you decide to go that route instead of adjusting your W4. Since your wife made $22K last year and will likely make similar this year, and you're starting your job in July, you'll want to be strategic about timing. The Q3 estimated payment (due September 15) might be a good starting point for your wife if you decide on quarterly payments rather than W4 adjustments. Also, keep in mind that if your wife's business has any seasonal fluctuations, you might want to use the annualized income installment method rather than paying equal quarterly amounts. This can help if her income varies significantly throughout the year. One last tip: whatever approach you choose (W4 adjustment vs quarterly payments), make sure to revisit your calculations in the fall once you have a better sense of both your actual income and your wife's year-end business expenses. You can always make adjustments for Q4 or change your W4 withholding if needed. The key is just getting started with something reasonable rather than trying to get it perfect from day one!
This is such great practical advice about the timing! I'm actually in a very similar situation - just started a new job and my spouse has variable 1099 income. The point about Q3 payments makes a lot of sense since that's when the new income really kicks in. One thing I'd add is that if you do decide to make quarterly payments, you can actually make them online through the IRS Direct Pay system, which makes it super convenient. You can even set up automatic payments if you want to stick with equal quarterly amounts. Also, @Aaliyah Reed mentioned the annualized income installment method - this can be really helpful if your wife s'business income is seasonal. For example, if she makes most of her money in the last quarter, you can adjust the payments accordingly rather than overpaying early in the year. I agree completely that getting started with something reasonable is better than analysis paralysis. You can always adjust as you learn more about your actual tax situation!
I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! My husband is a 1099 contractor making about $25K annually, and I just started a new W2 job making $78K. One thing that really helped me was breaking down the calculation into two parts: the self-employment tax (which is pretty straightforward at 15.3% of net income) and the additional income tax from the combined income pushing us into a higher bracket. For your wife's $22K income, you're looking at roughly $3,370 in self-employment tax. Then for the income tax portion, you'll need to figure out what tax bracket your combined income puts you in. With your $85K plus her $22K, you'll likely be in the 22% bracket, so that's another $4,840 in income tax on her income. The tricky part is that your wife can reduce her taxable income significantly with business deductions - home office, supplies, mileage, phone/internet if used for business, etc. This could easily reduce her taxable income by $3-5K, which would lower the overall tax burden. I ended up using a combination approach: I increased my W4 withholding by about $400/month to cover most of it, and my husband makes a small quarterly payment to cover any difference. This way we're not over-withholding too much from my paychecks, but we're still staying current with the taxes. The IRS withholding calculator is definitely your best bet for getting the exact numbers, but hopefully this gives you a ballpark to work with!
This breakdown is really helpful! I'm curious about the business deductions you mentioned - how do you determine what percentage of home office expenses can be deducted? My spouse works from home but also uses the space for personal things, so I'm not sure how to calculate that properly. Also, do you track mileage for every single business-related trip, or is there a simpler way to estimate that? I want to make sure we're taking advantage of all the deductions we can legally claim without getting into trouble with the IRS.
I totally get your frustration - I went through this exact same nightmare last year! The ID.me/IRS verification process is incredibly confusing and poorly explained. What's happening is that you have an ID.me account, but you haven't completed the IRS-specific verification link yet. Here's what finally worked for me: 1. Start at IRS.gov (this is crucial - don't go to ID.me first) 2. Click "Sign in to your Online Account" 3. It will redirect you to ID.me - log in with your existing credentials 4. Here's the key step most people miss: after logging in, there will be an authorization screen asking if you want to allow the IRS to access your verified ID.me information 5. Click "Allow" or "Authorize" - this creates the connection between your ID.me account and the IRS system The whole thing is like having a key but not knowing which door it opens. Once you complete that authorization step, you should be able to access your account and track your refund status. I know how stressful it is waiting for that money, especially when working remotely. The process took me about 15 minutes once I figured out the right sequence. Hope this helps you get through it quickly!
This explanation is spot on! I just went through this process yesterday and can confirm that the authorization step is absolutely critical. I kept getting error messages until I realized I was skipping that permission screen. What really helped me was making sure I had a good internet connection during the process - it seems like if the connection drops during the authorization step, you have to start over. Also, for anyone reading this, make sure you're using a supported browser (Chrome or Firefox worked best for me). The whole system is unnecessarily complicated, but once you get through it, at least you can finally access your refund information!
I completely understand your frustration - I just went through this exact same ordeal two weeks ago! The key issue is that having an ID.me account is different from being verified specifically for IRS purposes. Here's what finally worked for me: 1. Go to IRS.gov first (not ID.me directly) 2. Click "Sign in to your Online Account" 3. When it redirects to ID.me, log in with your existing credentials 4. Look for the authorization step - this is where you give the IRS permission to access your ID.me verification 5. Complete that authorization to link the systems I was in the same boat waiting for my refund while working from home, and the stress was real. The whole process took about 15 minutes once I figured out the right sequence. The IRS really needs to explain this better - it's like they designed it to be as confusing as possible! Once you get through it though, you'll finally be able to track your refund status online. Hope this helps you get your money faster!
Thank you for this detailed walkthrough! I'm actually dealing with this right now and your step-by-step explanation is exactly what I needed. I've been making the same mistake everyone else seems to make - going directly to ID.me instead of starting from the IRS portal. It's honestly baffling how poorly the IRS explains this process on their website. I've been stressed about my refund for weeks, especially since I'm also working remotely and really counting on that money. Going to try your method right now and hopefully finally get this resolved. Really appreciate you taking the time to break down the authorization step - that seems to be the crucial piece that everyone misses!
Freya Ross
Jacob, I completely understand your situation - I was in almost the exact same spot when I first started filing taxes! The good news is that your situation is actually pretty straightforward once you understand the basics. Since you sold $1,300 worth of personal items that originally cost you $650-700, you're looking at roughly $600-650 in profit. However, there's an important concept called depreciation to consider - most personal items (clothes, electronics, collectibles) lose value over time through normal wear and use. So even though you made $1,300 in sales, if these items had depreciated since you originally bought them, your actual taxable profit could be much lower or even zero. The IRS really distinguishes between people who are running actual reselling businesses versus folks like you who are just cleaning out their closets. Since these weren't items you bought specifically to resell, and you're not doing this regularly as a business, you're in a much simpler tax situation. You'll likely receive a 1099-K from eBay since you exceeded $600 in sales, but remember - that form just shows your gross sales, not your taxable profit. You only pay taxes on the actual profit after accounting for what you originally paid and reasonable depreciation. For your first time filing, I'd suggest using one of the free or low-cost tax software options that can walk you through this step by step. Don't stress too much - the IRS isn't trying to penalize college students selling old stuff!
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Hattie Carson
ā¢@Freya Ross This is exactly what I needed to hear! I ve'been losing sleep over this for weeks thinking I was going to owe a ton of money or get in trouble with the IRS. The depreciation concept makes so much sense - like my old iPhone that I sold for $150 probably cost me $800 when it was new three years ago, so there s'definitely no profit there. I think my biggest worry was just not understanding the difference between gross sales and actual taxable profit. It s'really reassuring to know that the IRS distinguishes between people running businesses versus someone like me just clearing out old stuff. I was starting to think I accidentally turned myself into a business owner by selling on eBay! One quick question though - when you mention using tax software to walk through this, do most of the free versions handle this type of income reporting? I don t'want to start filling everything out only to find out I need to upgrade to a paid version just to report my eBay sales. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this - you ve'definitely helped calm my nerves about the whole situation!
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Katherine Ziminski
ā¢@Hattie Carson Most of the free tax software versions do handle basic self-employment and hobby income reporting! I used FreeTaxUSA last year which (several people mentioned here and) it walked me through reporting my eBay sales without needing to upgrade to a paid version. TurboTax s'free version is more limited and will try to upsell you, but FreeTaxUSA, Credit Karma Tax now (Cash App Taxes ,)and even the IRS Free File options can handle this type of income reporting. The key is that you re'not running a complex business - you re'just reporting some occasional sales income. The software will ask you questions about your income sources, and when you mention eBay sales, it ll'guide you through entering your gross sales and then your costs what (you originally paid for the items .)The software does the math to calculate your actual taxable profit. Your iPhone example is perfect - selling a 3-year-old phone for $150 that originally cost $800 is clearly not a profit situation! The software will help you account for that depreciation properly. You re'definitely not accidentally running a business by selling old personal items occasionally. Just make sure to keep records of your estimates for what you originally paid for items, even if they re'rough estimates. The software will ask for this information to calculate your actual taxable profit. You ve'got this!
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Elijah Knight
Hey Jacob! I totally get the anxiety around filing taxes for the first time - it can feel really overwhelming, especially when you add eBay sales into the mix. But honestly, your situation sounds pretty straightforward once you break it down. The key thing to remember is that you only owe taxes on actual profit, not your total sales. Since you made $1,300 in sales but originally paid $650-700 for those items, you're looking at maybe $600-650 in profit on paper. But here's the important part - those were personal items that have likely depreciated over time. Your old electronics and clothes are probably worth less now than when you bought them, so your actual taxable profit might be even smaller. Since you weren't buying these items specifically to resell (just clearing out stuff you already owned), this is considered occasional personal property sales rather than running a business. That makes the tax treatment much simpler. You'll probably get a 1099-K from eBay since you exceeded $600 in sales, but don't panic when you see that form - it just shows your gross sales, not what you actually owe taxes on. Keep simple records of what you estimate you originally paid for the items you sold (even rough estimates are fine), and any decent tax software can walk you through reporting this properly. For a first-timer in your situation, I'd definitely recommend using software like FreeTaxUSA rather than paying for a tax preparer. You've got this - don't stress too much about it!
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Yuki Tanaka
ā¢This thread has been super helpful for understanding eBay tax reporting! As someone who's also new to filing taxes, I really appreciate everyone breaking down the difference between gross sales and actual taxable profit. One thing I'm still curious about - if I receive a 1099-K from eBay showing my $1,300 in sales, but my actual taxable profit is much lower (or maybe even zero after accounting for depreciation), how do I make sure the IRS doesn't think I'm underreporting income? Like, won't they see the 1099-K and expect me to report the full $1,300 as income? I'm worried about triggering some kind of audit flag by reporting a much lower amount than what's on the 1099-K form. Is there a specific way I need to explain the difference between my gross sales and actual profit on my tax return? Thanks for all the great advice everyone - this community has been way more helpful than any of the confusing IRS websites I've been trying to navigate!
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