IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Sunny Wang

•

I'm reading all these comments and feel like I'm taking crazy pills. Our entire government is in chaos and everyone's just like "keep paying your taxes, nothing to see here!" WTF? Not saying anyone should commit tax fraud, but maybe consider adjusting your withholdings to the legal minimum while keeping good records of what you would normally pay? Then if things stabilize you can make estimated payments to catch up without penalties?

0 coins

Gabriel Ruiz

•

That's actually a very risky approach. If you intentionally underwithhold throughout the year planning to "catch up" later, you may still face underpayment penalties even if you pay the full amount by tax day. The IRS requires quarterly estimated payments precisely to prevent this strategy. The legal minimum withholding typically requires you to pay either 90% of your current year tax or 100% of your prior year tax (110% if your income is over $150,000) through withholding or quarterly estimated payments throughout the year. Anything less can trigger penalties regardless of whether you eventually pay in full.

0 coins

Avery Flores

•

I understand the confusion, but I want to emphasize what others have said - continuing to pay your taxes is absolutely the right approach. I've been through several IRS reorganizations during my career, and the core tax collection and enforcement systems always remain operational. What many people don't realize is that the IRS processes over 150 million individual tax returns annually through highly automated systems. These computer systems that match your reported income to what employers and banks report to the IRS don't get shut down during administrative changes. If you're genuinely concerned about where your tax dollars are going during this transition, you can actually track federal spending through USAspending.gov. Your tax payments continue funding Social Security, Medicare, military operations, infrastructure maintenance, and other essential services that operate continuously regardless of IRS staffing changes. The best thing you can do is maintain accurate records, file electronically if possible to avoid paper processing delays, and continue making your regular tax payments. If you have specific concerns about your tax situation, consider consulting with a licensed tax professional who can give you personalized advice based on your circumstances rather than making decisions based on general uncertainty about government operations.

0 coins

Ava Johnson

•

This is really helpful perspective, thank you! As someone new to this community, I was getting pretty worried reading the original post. The point about USAspending.gov is great - I had no idea you could actually track where tax money goes. That definitely helps with the uncertainty about whether payments are "going nowhere" during transitions. One thing I'm curious about - you mentioned filing electronically to avoid delays. Are there any other practical steps we should take during this transition period? I'm a pretty straightforward W-2 employee but want to make sure I'm not missing anything important.

0 coins

Laila Fury

•

Anyone know if property management fees count toward the "services" that might trigger self employment tax? I own the properties but pay a company to handle everything.

0 coins

PaulineW

•

Using a property management company actually strengthens your position that it's passive income not subject to self-employment tax. When you hire a management company, you're further removed from the day-to-day operations, which reinforces the passive nature of your investment. The management company might need to pay self-employment tax on their fees (depending on their business structure), but you as the property owner are just collecting passive rental income. This arrangement makes it very clear that you're an investor, not running an active business, so you can still potentially qualify for QBI without worrying about SE tax.

0 coins

Rachel Clark

•

This is exactly the kind of confusion that trips up so many rental property owners! You're smart to think through the implications before diving in. The key thing to understand is that the QBI deduction and self-employment tax operate under completely different rules. The IRS specifically designed the rental real estate safe harbor (Rev. Proc. 2019-38) to allow rental properties to qualify for QBI while maintaining their status as passive investments for SE tax purposes. Think of it this way: QBI asks "is this a business activity?" while SE tax asks "are you actively engaged in a trade or business?" For rentals, the answer can be yes to the first and no to the second. As long as you're doing normal landlord stuff - collecting rent, arranging maintenance, screening tenants, handling lease agreements - you're still in passive income territory. The line gets crossed when you start providing substantial personal services to tenants (like daily housekeeping, meals, or concierge services that would make it more like running a hotel). So you can absolutely pursue that QBI deduction without worrying about suddenly owing SE taxes on your rental income. Just make sure you meet the safe harbor requirements if you go that route.

0 coins

Isaiah Cross

•

anybody know if AOTC is better than the Lifetime Learning Credit? my tax guy said AOTC is usually better but depends on your situation

0 coins

Esteban Tate

•

AOTC is almost always better than the Lifetime Learning Credit if you qualify for both. AOTC gives up to $2,500 with $1,000 being refundable, while Lifetime Learning only gives up to $2,000 and none is refundable. AOTC is only for the first 4 years of undergraduate education though, while Lifetime Learning has no limit on years and can be used for graduate school or professional courses. So if you're beyond your 4th year or in grad school, Lifetime Learning would be your only option between those two credits.

0 coins

Isaiah Cross

•

thx that makes sense. im still in undergrad so AOTC sounds better for me

0 coins

Just wanted to add a few key points that might help others in similar situations: 1. The AOTC requires you to be enrolled at least half-time in a degree program, while the Tuition and Fees Deduction doesn't have this requirement. 2. If you receive a refund from your school for any reason (dropped classes, etc.), you need to reduce your qualified expenses by that amount or potentially pay back part of the credit. 3. Keep ALL your receipts and documentation - not just the 1098-T. The IRS can audit education credits, and you'll need proof of what you actually paid and when. 4. If you're planning to continue school beyond 4 years total (including any previous colleges), start thinking about whether to save some AOTC eligibility for later years when your expenses might be higher. With your income level and being in year 3, the AOTC is definitely your best bet. Just make sure you're tracking everything properly for future years!

0 coins

This is really helpful info! I'm new to filing taxes with education expenses and wasn't aware of the half-time enrollment requirement for AOTC. Does that mean if I took summer classes that were less than half-time, those expenses wouldn't qualify for the AOTC but could still be used for the Tuition and Fees Deduction? Also, when you mention saving AOTC eligibility for later years - can you choose not to claim it in a year when you have qualified expenses, or once you have qualifying expenses do you have to claim it?

0 coins

Olivia Evans

•

One thing nobody's mentioned - if you're using your Roth for a first-time home purchase, you might not even need to roll it back! You can withdraw up to $10,000 of earnings (not just contributions) from a Roth IRA penalty-free for a first-time home purchase. And remember, contributions can always be withdrawn tax and penalty free anyway. So depending on whether this was contribution money or earnings, and if it's your first home, you might be overthinking this. Worth looking into before going through the rollover hassle.

0 coins

This is partially right but kinda misleading. Yes, there's a first-time homebuyer exception for Roth IRAs, but there are age and holding period requirements too. The account needs to have been open for at least 5 years before the $10k of earnings becomes penalty-free (though still taxable if you're under 59½).

0 coins

Marcelle Drum

•

Great question about the mechanics! I've helped several clients through this exact scenario. You're correct that you can roll the money back into the same Roth IRA - no need to open a new account elsewhere. One important detail to add: make sure you have the exact amount you withdrew ($13,500) to roll back in. If you roll back less than the full amount, the difference will be treated as a permanent distribution and could be subject to taxes and penalties depending on whether it came from contributions or earnings. Also, keep detailed records of both the withdrawal date (July 12th) and the rollover date. The IRS counts calendar days, not business days, so you want to be absolutely certain you're within that 60-day window. Since you're planning around 45 days, you should be fine, but it's worth marking the exact deadline on your calendar just to be safe. For the tax reporting, you'll indeed receive a 1099-R from Fidelity, but when you complete the rollover within 60 days, you'll report it as a non-taxable transaction on your return. The key is making sure both the distribution and rollover are properly documented.

0 coins

This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the record-keeping aspect - what specific documentation should I keep beyond just the withdrawal and deposit statements? Should I be getting any kind of written confirmation from Fidelity that they're treating the deposit as a rollover rather than a regular contribution? I want to make sure I have everything I need if the IRS ever asks questions down the road.

0 coins

I'm dealing with a very similar situation - renting to my elderly parents below market rate. One thing I learned from my CPA is that you should also document WHY you're charging below market rent. In my case, I kept records showing that my parents help with property maintenance and yard work, which justifies some of the rent reduction. Also, make sure you're treating this like a real business relationship even though it's family. I set up automatic bank transfers for the rent payments so there's a clear paper trail, and I give my parents a receipt each month. The IRS wants to see that this is a legitimate rental arrangement, not just you letting family live there cheaply. One more tip - if your mother-in-law ever stays elsewhere for extended periods, keep track of those days. If the property is vacant for more than 14 days per year due to personal use (like if she visits other family), it affects your tax calculations even more.

0 coins

Carter Holmes

•

This is really helpful advice! I hadn't thought about documenting the reasons for below-market rent. In our case, my mother-in-law also helps with some light maintenance and keeps an eye on the property when we travel, so that could justify part of the rent reduction. I'm curious about the 14-day rule you mentioned - does that apply even if it's the tenant (my mother-in-law) who's away, not us using it personally? We don't use the property at all since she moved in, but she does visit her sister for a week or two each year. Would those days count against us somehow? Also, do you happen to know if there are any specific forms or templates for family rental agreements that include the kind of documentation the IRS likes to see?

0 coins

Miguel Silva

•

I went through this exact situation a few years ago when I rented to my uncle below market rate. One crucial thing to understand is that even though your deductions are limited to your rental income, you still need to report ALL the rental income you receive - even if it's below market value. For your situation, you'll report the $850/month ($10,200 for the year, assuming 12 months) on Schedule E. Your deductible expenses can't exceed this amount, but here's what many people miss: you need to allocate expenses properly between rental and personal use portions. Since you're only collecting about 60-65% of market rent, the IRS may require you to allocate expenses accordingly. This means if your total property expenses (mortgage interest, taxes, insurance, etc.) are $15,000 for the year, you might only be able to deduct $10,200 of them as rental expenses on Schedule E. The remaining $4,800 could potentially be deductible on Schedule A if you itemize. Also, don't forget about depreciation - even with limited rental income, you can still depreciate the portion of the property used for rental purposes, but again, only up to your net rental income limit. Keep excellent records of everything, including a formal lease agreement with your mother-in-law, even if it feels awkward with family.

0 coins

This is really comprehensive advice, thank you! The allocation concept makes a lot of sense - I hadn't fully understood that I might need to split expenses between rental and personal use portions based on the percentage of market rent I'm collecting. One question about depreciation - if I can only depreciate up to my net rental income limit, does that mean any unused depreciation is lost forever, or can it be carried forward to future years? Also, since we only started collecting rent in July (she moved in June but we didn't charge rent the first month), do I need to prorate everything for the partial year? I'm definitely going to create a formal lease agreement now. Do you know if there are any specific clauses that should be included for family rentals to satisfy IRS requirements, or would a standard residential lease template work fine?

0 coins

Prev1...21762177217821792180...5645Next