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Does anyonr know if this QBI thing is affected by taking the standard milage deduction vs. actual car expenses? I've been tracking my actual gas and maintenance costs but wondering if the standard 67 cents per mile would be better.

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Brian Downey

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Great question! The QBI deduction is based on your net profit after all business expenses, regardless of whether you use the standard mileage rate or actual expenses method. For most delivery drivers, the standard mileage rate (67 cents per mile for 2025) is usually more beneficial and much easier to track. But either way, your QBI deduction will be calculated as 20% of whatever your final net profit is after you've deducted either mileage or actual expenses. So choose whichever method gives you the larger deduction for your vehicle expenses, and then you'll get QBI on top of that.

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Liam Duke

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I've been doing food delivery for about 6 months now and just learned about QBI from this thread - wish I'd known about it sooner! For anyone else who's confused like I was, here's what I've figured out: The QBI deduction is basically a 20% discount on your business income for tax purposes. So if you made $20,000 profit from deliveries, you'd only pay income tax on $16,000 (though you still pay the full self-employment tax on the $20,000). For those Section 199A fields that keep tripping people up - if you're just a solo delivery driver using your personal car, you can safely put zero for both W-2 wages and qualified property. These only matter for bigger businesses or if you're making over $170K+ as a single filer. One tip: make sure you're tracking ALL your expenses properly (mileage, phone bill, delivery bags, etc.) because QBI is calculated on your NET profit after expenses. The lower your taxable business income, the less benefit you get from QBI, but the more you save overall from the expense deductions themselves.

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I'm dealing with a similar situation with multiple healthcare staffing apps! One thing that really helped me was creating a simple monthly routine where I screenshot my earnings summary from each app right after I get paid. I store these in a dedicated folder on my phone labeled "Tax Documents 2024." Also, since you mentioned you're new to this type of work - don't forget about the home office deduction if you do any administrative work from home (like checking schedules, communicating with facilities, or managing your bookings). Even if it's just a corner of your bedroom where you handle work-related tasks, you might be able to deduct a portion of your rent/mortgage and utilities. The key thing is to be proactive about record-keeping going forward. The IRS cares more about you reporting all your income honestly than having perfect documentation, especially for legitimate gig work like healthcare staffing.

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This is really helpful advice! I never thought about the home office deduction. I do spend time at home checking the app for available shifts and coordinating with facilities. How do you calculate what portion of your home expenses you can deduct? Is it based on square footage or time spent working from home? Also, your screenshot routine is genius - I'm definitely going to start doing that. Do you organize them by month or by app? I work through three different platforms so I want to make sure I don't miss anything come tax time.

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I can relate to your situation! I've been doing healthcare staffing through apps for about 3 years now and went through the same confusion my first year. Here's what I learned: First, definitely report all that income on Schedule C even without a 1099. The IRS actually expects this - they know many gig platforms don't issue forms for smaller amounts. Your payment records from the app are totally sufficient documentation. For organizing records, I create a simple spreadsheet with columns for: Date, Platform, Facility, Hours Worked, Gross Pay, and any expenses. I update it weekly while everything is fresh in my memory. This makes tax prep so much easier than scrambling at year-end. One thing that caught me off guard my first year was the self-employment tax (15.3%) on top of regular income tax. On $13,500, that's about $2,070 just for SE tax. I'd recommend setting aside 25-30% of your earnings going forward for taxes. Also, start tracking ALL work-related expenses now: mileage between facilities, parking fees, scrubs, stethoscope, any medical supplies you buy, license renewals, continuing education, even a portion of your phone bill if you use it for work communication. These deductions can significantly reduce your tax burden. Don't stress too much - this is very common in the healthcare gig economy and the IRS understands these situations!

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Nia Harris

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This is such comprehensive advice, thank you! I'm definitely going to start using a spreadsheet system like you described. The 25-30% savings rule is something I wish I had known earlier - I've basically spent everything I earned so far this year not realizing how much I'd owe in taxes. Quick question about the mileage tracking - do you count the drive TO the first facility of the day and back home from the last one? Or just the miles between different facilities if you work multiple shifts? I sometimes drive pretty far to get to facilities that pay better rates, so this could add up to significant deductions if I'm tracking it correctly. Also, when you mention continuing education - does that include things like CPR recertification or BLS renewals that are required to work through these apps?

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Went through this exact thing last year! My situation was almost identical - married, filed jointly, parents wanted to claim me. The key thing that determined it for us was the support test. You need to add up ALL forms of support - not just who paid what bills. Support includes: - Fair rental value of housing (even if no rent was paid) - Food - Utilities - Clothing - Medical expenses - Education expenses - Transportation costs - Other necessities If you lived with your husband and not your parents, the housing portion alone might put you over the 50% threshold for providing your own support, especially if you paid rent or mortgage.

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Wait, so even if my parents paid my tuition directly to my school, but I lived in my own apartment with my boyfriend and paid all my other expenses, they probably can't claim me? My dad is insisting that because he paid the $18k tuition bill, that's more than half my support.

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Logan Chiang

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Not necessarily! You need to calculate the total value of ALL support for the year, not just who paid the biggest single expense. If your apartment rent was say $800/month ($9,600/year), plus food, utilities, clothing, transportation, etc., that could easily exceed the $18k tuition your dad paid. For example: $9,600 rent + $3,000 food + $1,200 utilities + $1,000 clothing + $2,000 transportation + other expenses could put your total support at $30k+. In that case, your $18k tuition would be less than half of your total support. The IRS looks at the total support amount, then determines who provided more than 50% of that total. Keep detailed records of all your expenses - you might be surprised how much your daily living costs add up to!

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This is such a common situation that trips people up! Based on what you've described, it sounds like your parents likely cannot claim you as a dependent for several reasons: 1. **Joint Filing Rule**: The general rule is that married couples who file jointly cannot be claimed as dependents. The exception you mentioned only applies if BOTH you and your husband would have had zero tax liability filing separately - not just no taxes owed, but literally zero liability. 2. **Support Test**: You mentioned you "probably" provided more than half your own support. This is crucial to calculate accurately. Include housing (even if free, use fair market rental value), food, utilities, transportation, clothing, medical expenses, and education costs. If you lived independently from your parents, the housing component alone might push you over the 50% threshold. 3. **Student Exception**: While you're right that there's a residency exception for full-time students under 24, this doesn't help if you fail the support test. My advice: Calculate your actual support numbers carefully before making any decisions. Don't forget that even if your parents technically could claim you, it might not be financially beneficial given the limited tax benefits compared to education credits you might qualify for on your joint return. You might want to run both scenarios through tax software to see which approach results in the lowest total tax burden for your family overall.

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Luca Ferrari

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Don't overthink this! Schedule C is definitely the right place for self-employment income, received 1099 or not. I've had missing 1099s for years from some clients and never had an issue. Just make sure the total you report matches or exceeds what was actually paid to you, and you'll be fine. The IRS mainly cares that you're not UNDER-reporting income.

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Nia Wilson

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I think this is good advice overall, but I would add one caution - if the company eventually does file a 1099-NEC with a significantly HIGHER amount than what you reported (like if they made a mistake), that could trigger a notice. So keeping really good records of what you actually received is super important.

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Malik Davis

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Just went through this exact situation last tax season! You're absolutely doing the right thing by reporting the income on Schedule C regardless of the missing 1099-NEC. One thing I'd add that helped me - consider sending one final certified letter to the company requesting the 1099, keeping the receipt. This creates an official paper trail showing you made every reasonable effort to obtain proper documentation. Even if they don't respond, you'll have proof for your records. Also, make sure to separate the $68,000 in actual income from the $350 in reimbursements when reporting. The reimbursements shouldn't be included as income since they were just covering your expenses. Only report the true payment for services as self-employment income on Schedule C. The IRS matching system is pretty forgiving when you report MORE than what's on file rather than less. Even if that 1099 shows up later, you're already covered since you reported everything accurately.

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Not sure if this helps, but I bought a patent last year and my tax guy told me the key thing is whether you aquired any "goodwill" along with it. Since my patent was for a completely different industry than my business operates in, it was clearly just an asset purchase and not part of aquiring any business operations. I was able to amortize it over its useful life (10 yrs in my case) instead of the 15-year 197 schedule.

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Marcus Marsh

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My situation was the opposite. I bought some patents but also got their customer list and took over some of their ongoing contracts. IRS considered that "substantial portion of a business" and I had to use the 15-year schedule even though the patents only had 7 years of life left. Still annoyed about that.

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Thanks for sharing your experience. Yeah, the goodwill and customer list aspects seem to be huge red flags for the IRS to classify something as a Section 197 transaction. In my case, I literally just bought the patent as an investment with no intention of even using it in my current business operations. I've learned that documentation is everything with these kinds of transactions. My agreement specifically stated it was for the patent only with no transfer of business elements, goodwill, or ongoing concern value. That clear language probably saved me from having any issues when my return was processed.

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Adriana Cohn

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Based on everything discussed here, it really sounds like your patent purchase wouldn't qualify as a Section 197 intangible. The fact that you bought it as part of a liquidation sale with no transfer of business operations, goodwill, or customer relationships is key. One thing I'd add is to make sure you have proper documentation of the patent's remaining useful life for your amortization calculation. Since you mentioned it has 12 years left, you'll want to support that with the original patent filing date and term. The IRS sometimes challenges useful life determinations, so having the USPTO records showing the exact expiration date will be helpful. Also, since you paid $87,000 for the patent "along with some other property," make sure you properly allocate the purchase price between the patent and the other assets. You can only amortize the portion specifically attributable to the patent itself.

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Ruby Garcia

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Great point about the purchase price allocation! I hadn't really thought about that aspect. Since I paid $87,000 for both the patent and some equipment, I should probably get an appraisal or use fair market values to determine how much of that $87k is specifically attributable to the patent versus the other assets, right? Also, regarding the USPTO records - should I just pull the original patent documents to show the filing date and term length? I want to make sure I have all the right documentation in case there are any questions later.

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