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You might want to check if you qualified for any partial Roth contribution during those years instead of assuming you couldn't contribute anything. The income limits have a phaseout range where you can make reduced contributions. For 2017, the phaseout for single filers was between $118,000-$133,000. Unless you were completely above the upper threshold, you might have been eligible to contribute something.
Omg thank you for pointing this out! I just checked my 2017 tax return and my MAGI was around $129,000 which means I was in the phaseout range. So I would have been eligible for a partial contribution. Does that change how I handle this situation? Do I only need to remove part of each year's contribution?
Yes, this changes everything for those years! If you were in the phaseout range, you need to calculate your maximum allowable contribution for each year based on your specific MAGI. The formula is a bit complex, but basically you take the maximum contribution limit minus a reduction based on how far into the phaseout range you were. For 2017 with a $129,000 MAGI, you'd calculate: $5,500 - (($129,000 - $118,000) / ($133,000 - $118,000)) Ć $5,500. That works out to about $1,433 you were allowed to contribute. So you'd only need to remove the excess amount above that ($4,067) rather than the full $5,500. You'll need to do this calculation for each year you were in the phaseout range. This could save you significant penalties and taxes on the removal of contributions that were actually legitimate!
This is a really helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation but from 2020-2022. One thing I learned from my tax preparer is that you should also check if your employer offers a 401(k) - if you have workplace retirement coverage, it can affect your ability to deduct Traditional IRA contributions, which impacts the backdoor Roth strategy that people mentioned. Also, make sure to keep detailed records of everything when you're going through the correction process. The IRS may ask for documentation years later, and having your Form 5329s, withdrawal confirmations from Vanguard, and calculation worksheets all organized will save you major headaches if they ever audit this. One last tip - if you end up owing multiple years of the 6% excise tax, you can sometimes set up a payment plan with the IRS rather than paying it all at once. Just call them (or use that Claimyr service others mentioned) to discuss options.
This is really solid advice, especially about the documentation! I learned this the hard way when I had to deal with an IRS inquiry about my retirement accounts a few years back. Having everything organized made the difference between a quick resolution and months of back-and-forth. The point about 401(k) coverage affecting Traditional IRA deductibility is crucial too. A lot of people don't realize that even if you don't contribute to your workplace 401(k), just having access to one can limit your ability to deduct Traditional IRA contributions if you're above certain income thresholds. This definitely impacts the backdoor Roth strategy since you want non-deductible Traditional IRA contributions to avoid the pro-rata rule complications. @Luca Bianchi - do you happen to know if the IRS payment plan option applies to the 6% excise tax specifically, or just general tax debt? I ve'been wondering about this for my own situation.
Based on my experience with cycle code 05, here's what you can realistically expect: Your return gets processed Thursday nights around midnight EST, and any updates typically show up on your transcript by Friday morning around 6 AM. However, don't set your expectations too high for immediate movement. I've seen 05 cycle codes take anywhere from 1-4 weeks to show actual progress, especially during peak season like now. The code just tells you WHEN your account gets looked at, not IF it will move forward. Since you filed jointly for the first time, there might be additional verification steps that could delay things regardless of your cycle code. My advice? Check Friday morning, but have a backup plan for your finances that doesn't depend on getting your refund this week.
@0e8b937137ec Thank you for the realistic timeline! I'm curious - when you mentioned additional verification steps for first-time joint filers, are there any specific red flags we should watch for on our transcript? My husband and I are also first-time joint filers with an 05 cycle code, and I want to make sure we're not missing any warning signs that could indicate our return got pulled for manual review. Should we be looking for specific transaction codes or just the standard 150/846 progression?
@0e8b937137ec Great point about having a backup plan! I'm in a similar situation with an 05 cycle code and filing jointly for the first time. One thing I've learned from lurking here is to look for transaction codes 570/971 on your transcript, which can indicate holds or additional review. Also, if you see code 768 (earned income credit), that can sometimes add extra processing time even with the 05 cycle. The key is managing expectations - the cycle code tells you when they'll LOOK at your return, but doesn't guarantee they'll approve it that same cycle. Better to be pleasantly surprised than constantly disappointed checking every Friday morning!
I've been through this exact situation multiple times and here's what I've learned: The 05 cycle code means your return processes Thursday nights, with updates typically showing Friday morning around 6 AM EST. However, don't expect immediate movement - I've seen 05 cycles take 1-4 weeks to show actual progress. Since you're filing jointly for the first time, there's a higher chance of additional verification which can delay processing regardless of your cycle code. My recommendation? Check your transcript Friday morning, but don't make financial plans assuming you'll get your refund this week. Look for transaction codes 150 (return processed) and 846 (refund issued) as the key indicators of progress. If you see codes like 570 or 971, that usually means a hold or review. The cycle code is just the processing schedule, not a guarantee of when your refund will actually be approved and sent.
@290722d1338a This is exactly the kind of clear, realistic guidance I was looking for! As someone new to this community and dealing with my first 05 cycle code, I really appreciate you breaking down the transaction codes to watch for. The 570/971 codes for holds are particularly helpful to know about. Quick question - if we do see those hold codes appear on our transcript, is there anything we can proactively do to speed up the review process, or is it just a matter of waiting it out? I'm trying to set proper expectations for my spouse since we're both anxious about the timeline.
Just a heads up that the person BUYING the property in this scenario also needs to consider tax implications. When my mom sold me her house below market value, I didn't have to pay gift tax (that was on her), but when I eventually sold the property years later, I had to use HER original basis for calculating capital gains, not the discounted price I paid. This is called "basis carryover" for related party transactions and it really surprised me at tax time.
Wait really? So if the original poster buys a property for 200k, sells to family for 300k when it's worth 600k, and then the family member later sells for 700k, the family member's capital gain isn't 400k (700k-300k) but 500k (700k-200k)? That seems unfair somehow.
That's not quite right. The basis carryover rules apply for GIFTED property, not for property that's purchased at a discount. If you actually buy the property (even at a discount), your basis is what you paid plus the gift portion's carryover basis. It gets complicated, but it's not as bad as using the original owner's complete basis.
One important thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing aspect of getting your appraisal. The IRS expects the fair market value to be determined as close to the transaction date as possible. If you're using an appraisal that's several months old, they might question its validity, especially in a volatile real estate market. Also, make sure your appraiser knows this is for a family transaction that will likely involve gift tax reporting. Some appraisers will note this in their report and provide additional documentation about their methodology, which can be helpful if the IRS ever questions the valuation. I learned this the hard way when my first appraisal didn't have enough detail and I had to get a second one specifically for tax purposes. The key is having rock-solid documentation for every aspect of this transaction - the appraisal, the reasons for the below-market sale, and proper filing of all required forms. It's definitely worth consulting with a tax professional who has experience with family property transfers before you proceed.
This is really good advice about the appraisal timing! I'm just starting to research this whole process and hadn't realized how specific the IRS requirements are. When you say the appraiser should know it's for a family transaction, do you literally tell them "this is for gift tax purposes" or is there more specific language they need to hear? Also, roughly how much should I expect to pay for an appraisal that meets IRS standards versus a regular real estate appraisal?
Can someone explain what tax bracket these bonuses fall under? I got a $500 Amazon gift card for opening a premium checking account. Will this push me into a higher tax bracket? I'm already close to the next bracket with my regular income.
The bank bonus will be taxed as interest income at your ordinary income tax rate. It gets added to your total income for the year, so technically it could push you into a higher bracket if you're right at the threshold. But remember that tax brackets in the US are marginal - only the portion of income that falls into a higher bracket gets taxed at the higher rate, not all of your income. So even if the $500 pushes you into the next bracket, only that amount (or portion of it) would be taxed at the higher rate, not your entire income.
Something to keep in mind is that you might also want to factor in the tax cost when evaluating these bank bonuses. For example, if you're in the 22% tax bracket and get a $300 Amazon gift card, you'll owe about $66 in taxes on it. So the "real" value of the bonus to you is closer to $234. I've started keeping a spreadsheet tracking all my bank bonuses throughout the year so I can set aside money for the tax bill. It's easy to forget about these when tax time comes around, especially if you opened multiple accounts. Just received a $400 bonus from Wells Fargo last month and immediately moved $88 to my tax savings account (assuming 22% bracket). Also worth noting - some banks are better about sending the 1099-INT forms than others. Credit unions in particular seem to be inconsistent with reporting, but you're still legally required to report the income regardless.
This is such a smart approach! I never thought about calculating the after-tax value before signing up for these bonuses. I'm definitely going to start doing this math upfront. Quick question though - do you know if there's any difference in how state taxes treat these bonuses? I'm in California and wondering if I need to factor in state tax on top of federal.
Mei Wong
I'm a bit hesitant to share this, but my experience with this verification process wasn't great last year. I received the same notice, and I thought I could just wait it out... but it turned out they were verifying my dependents, and I ended up having to submit additional documentation after the initial review period. This extended my wait to almost 90 days total. I'm not saying this will happen to you, but if you're depending on this money for important expenses, you might want to have a backup plan just in case. The majority of people do get through the verification without issues though.
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Ava Kim
Going through the exact same thing right now! My transcript shows the 570 to 971 progression just like yours, and I got my notice three days ago. Reading through everyone's experiences here is actually really reassuring - seems like most people are getting their refunds well before the 60-day mark. I've been obsessively checking my transcript daily (probably not healthy, but here we are), and from what I've gathered, the key is watching for that 571 code to appear. That's when you know they've released the hold. The waiting is definitely the hardest part, especially when you're trying to budget around it. I've got student loan payments coming up, so I totally get the stress of not knowing exactly when the money will hit. But based on what everyone's shared, it sounds like 30-45 days is more realistic than the full 60 they mention in the notice. Hang in there - sounds like we're both in the same boat waiting for this verification to clear!
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Mateo Lopez
ā¢@Ava Kim I m'in the exact same situation! Just got my 971 notice yesterday and have been refreshing my transcript way too often. It s'reassuring to see so many people here saying they got their refunds in 30-45 days instead of the full 60. I m'also dealing with upcoming bills rent (is due in two weeks ,)so the uncertainty is stressful. But reading through all these experiences makes me feel less alone in this waiting game. Definitely going to stop checking daily and maybe check once a week for that 571 code everyone mentions. Thanks for sharing your timeline - it helps to know there are others going through this right now!
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