


Ask the community...
Has anyone tried just setting cost basis to zero when they can't track it? I'm in a similar situation but with much smaller amounts and wondering if it's worth the headache.
Reporting a zero cost basis is technically compliant since you're paying the maximum possible tax, but you're likely overpaying by a lot. For small amounts maybe it's worth the simplicity, but for OP's situation with $160k in sales, that would mean paying taxes on the full amount instead of just the gains.
I went through something very similar last year with about $120k in DeFi sales. What saved me was reconstructing my cost basis using a combination of approaches: 1) Bank statements showing my original fiat deposits to exchanges 2) Email receipts from major purchases I could find 3) Using DeFiPulse and similar sites to look up historical token prices for dates I could remember making trades 4) Cross-referencing my wallet addresses on blockchain explorers to verify transaction dates I ended up with about 80% of my trades documented with reasonable accuracy. For the remaining 20%, I used conservative estimates (higher cost basis when uncertain) and documented my methodology clearly. The key thing I learned is that the IRS cares more about good faith effort than perfect precision. As long as you can show you tried to be accurate and didn't just make up numbers, you're in much better shape than someone who reports nothing or clearly lowballs their gains. For your $160k situation, I'd definitely invest some time in reconstruction rather than just guessing. Even if you can only recover 70% of your actual records, that's still going to be much more defensible than a rough estimate.
This is really helpful advice! I'm new to crypto taxes and feeling overwhelmed. Your point about the IRS caring more about good faith effort than perfect precision is reassuring. I'm curious - when you say you used "conservative estimates" for the uncertain trades, do you mean you assumed higher purchase prices (better cost basis) or lower ones? And did you have to attach all that documentation to your return or just keep it for your records?
@Eva St. Cyr By "conservative estimates" I meant I assumed higher purchase prices when I was uncertain - basically giving myself a better cost basis rather than risking underreporting it. For example, if I remembered buying ETH sometime in a particular month but couldn't pinpoint the exact date, I'd use the highest price from that month rather than the average or lowest. You don't need to attach all the documentation to your return - just keep it organized in case of an audit. I created a master spreadsheet summarizing everything and kept all supporting documents (screenshots, emails, etc.) in a folder. The actual tax return just shows the summary numbers, but having that backup documentation ready gave me peace of mind. One thing I wish I'd known earlier - take screenshots of your current wallet addresses and transaction histories now while you still have access to them. Some platforms disappear or change their record-keeping, and blockchain explorers sometimes modify their interfaces.
Has anyone actually calculated their insolvency using the worksheet in Publication 4681? I'm trying to do this now and I'm confused about what counts as an asset. Do I include things like furniture and clothing? What about my laptop and phone?
Yes, technically ALL assets should be included at fair market value (what you could sell them for, not what you paid). But realistically, the IRS isn't going to nickel and dime you over household items unless they're exceptionally valuable. If you have designer clothes, expensive furniture, collectibles, or high-end electronics, you should include reasonable estimates. For regular household stuff, you could list a reasonable garage sale value.
Great thread! I went through this exact situation about 18 months ago with a cancelled credit card debt. One thing I'd add that really helped me was creating a detailed timeline showing when each debt was incurred versus when the cancellation happened. For your student loans, definitely contact your servicer directly - they can usually provide a "payoff statement" or balance verification letter for any specific date going back several years. I found that student loan companies are actually pretty good about providing historical documentation since they deal with tax-related requests frequently. Also, don't forget to include ALL liabilities - not just the obvious ones like loans. If you had any unpaid medical bills, credit card balances, or even money owed to family members at the time, those count toward proving insolvency. I initially missed some smaller debts and had to revise my worksheet. One last tip: when you send your response to the IRS, include a cover letter that clearly explains what you're providing and references the specific notice number. This helps ensure your documentation gets properly matched to your case. Good luck!
This is really helpful advice! I'm just starting to deal with a 1099-C situation myself and hadn't thought about the timeline approach. Quick question - when you say "money owed to family members," do you mean informal loans or does it have to be documented? I borrowed some money from my parents a few years ago but we didn't sign anything formal. Would that still count toward proving insolvency?
Something similar happened to me last year. I ended up contacting the HR department at my previous employer. Since they were the plan sponsor, they had access to all the plan documents and were able to request a duplicate 1099-R on my behalf. Might be worth giving that a try!
This worked for me too! My old company's benefits coordinator was able to help even though I'd been gone for almost a year. Apparently they maintain admin access to the retirement accounts for reporting purposes.
I work in tax compliance and see this issue frequently. Here's what I'd recommend in order of priority: 1. **Contact your old employer's HR/benefits department first** - This is often the fastest solution. As the plan sponsor, they maintain administrative access and can request duplicate tax documents even after you've left the company. 2. **Call Fidelity's dedicated tax document line at 1-800-544-4774** - When prompted for account info, immediately say "tax documents for closed account" or "representative." They're legally required to provide your 1099-R regardless of account status. 3. **Visit a Fidelity branch in person** - Bring your driver's license and be prepared to provide your SSN, previous address, and approximate account balance. This often cuts through the phone system issues. Important note: Even though this was a direct rollover, you still need to report it on your tax return (Form 1040). The 1099-R should show distribution code "G" in Box 7, which indicates it's a non-taxable direct rollover. The IRS receives a copy of this form and will expect to see it reported, even though it won't increase your tax liability. Don't panic about the timing - you have until the tax filing deadline to get this sorted out, and Fidelity is actually already late since 1099-Rs were due by January 31st.
This is really comprehensive advice! As someone who's dealt with similar issues, I'd add that when you do reach Fidelity (whether by phone or in person), it helps to mention that you need the document for tax filing purposes and that they missed the January 31st deadline. In my experience, emphasizing the legal requirement and deadline often gets them to prioritize your request and sometimes they can email you the form immediately rather than mailing it. Also, if you have any old statements or confirmation emails from the rollover, bring those - they can help verify your identity and account details even without an active account number.
Has anyone actually been audited over business expense deductions like these tips? I'm always worried about what might trigger an audit.
I got audited back in 2023 for my small business deductions, and they did look at contractor payments. They were actually more concerned about whether I had properly documented the business purpose rather than the amounts themselves. As long as you can show the tips were business-related and reasonable, you should be fine.
Thanks everyone for this thorough discussion! As someone new to freelancing platforms, this has been really helpful. I've been hesitant to tip contractors because I wasn't sure about the tax implications, but now I feel confident that reasonable tips are deductible business expenses. One follow-up question though - do you keep a separate log of tips paid, or just rely on the platform receipts? I'm thinking it might be good practice to maintain my own spreadsheet tracking the business justification for each tip (rush job, exceptional quality, etc.) alongside the receipts, especially for larger tips that might raise questions. Also appreciate the tips about those tools and services for getting IRS clarification - definitely bookmarking those for future reference!
Oliver Schulz
Don't forget that proper documentation is key here! Keep your HUD-1 or closing disclosure, along with documentation of the original purchase and any major improvements you made to the property. The IRS has been looking more closely at home sales in recent years.
0 coins
Natasha Kuznetsova
ā¢Would improvements like a new roof or HVAC system count toward increasing my basis? I replaced both a few years before selling.
0 coins
Ava Johnson
ā¢Yes, major improvements like a new roof or HVAC system typically qualify as capital improvements that increase your basis in the property. These aren't regular maintenance expenses - they're improvements that add value or extend the useful life of your home. Keep all receipts and documentation for these improvements as they directly reduce any taxable gain when you sell. The IRS distinguishes between repairs (which don't affect basis) and improvements (which do increase basis).
0 coins
Eduardo Silva
Just went through this exact situation last year! I had to give $8,200 in closing credits to my buyers and was completely lost on how to handle it tax-wise. What helped me was understanding that the closing credits aren't really an "expense" you deduct - they just reduce what you actually received from the sale. Think of it this way: if your contract was for $400,000 but you gave $7,500 in closing credits, you effectively only received $392,500. That's what you report as your sale price. The credits never actually went into your pocket, so they can't be your proceeds. One thing that caught me off guard - make sure you're calculating your gain correctly by using your adjusted basis (original purchase price plus qualifying improvements minus any depreciation). Since you mentioned you might qualify for the capital gains exclusion anyway, you'll want to double-check that your total gain is under the threshold before deciding whether you even need to report the sale. Keep all your closing documents - the settlement statement will clearly show the credits, which makes it easy to document if the IRS ever has questions.
0 coins
Ava Thompson
ā¢This is really helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - we're under contract to sell our home and already agreed to $5,000 in closing credits to help the buyers with their costs. I've been stressing about how to handle this on our taxes since it's our first time selling a home. Your explanation about it reducing the actual proceeds rather than being a separate expense makes so much sense. Did you end up needing to report the sale at all, or did you qualify for the full exclusion? We should be well under the $500k threshold but want to make sure we handle everything correctly.
0 coins