Have u looked into carpooling options? There are apps like Waze Carpool where u might find ppl going to the same area. Might be way cheaper than uber/lyft every day!

Another thing to consider is whether any of your rideshare trips qualify as business travel. If you occasionally travel to client meetings, conferences, or temporary work locations that aren't your regular workplace, those trips could be deductible. Keep detailed records of the business purpose, date, and cost for any trips that might qualify. Also, if you're self-employed or have a side business, trips related to that work (like going to meet clients or pick up supplies) are generally deductible business expenses. Just make sure to keep good documentation and separate business from personal trips. The key is understanding the difference between regular commuting (home to primary workplace) which isn't deductible, versus business travel which can be.

Based on what you've described, it sounds like you might actually be in a pretty good position regarding the Section 179 recapture. Since you purchased the car in 2017 and it's now 2025, you've held it for about 8 years, which is well beyond the typical 5-year recovery period for vehicles under MACRS. The Section 179 recapture generally only applies to the remaining undepreciated basis of the business portion of the asset. If you've already fully depreciated the business portion over the recovery period, there may be little to no recapture required. However, you'll want to carefully review your depreciation schedule to see exactly how much business basis remains. The recapture amount would be based on any remaining undepreciated Section 179 deduction, not the full $8,900 you originally claimed. Also, make sure you're getting the proper documentation for your charitable donation. Even though the car had transmission problems, you can still claim a charitable deduction for its fair market value in that condition. This deduction might help offset any recapture taxes you do owe. I'd recommend double-checking your depreciation records or consulting with a tax professional to calculate the exact recapture amount, as the calculation can be tricky with mixed-use assets.

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I donated business equipment after taking Section 179 deductions. One thing I wanted to add based on my research is that the timing of when you place assets in service can really impact your recapture calculation. For vehicles specifically, the IRS uses the "half-year convention" which means even if you bought your car in December 2017, it's treated as if you placed it in service in the middle of that tax year for depreciation purposes. This could actually work in your favor for the recapture calculation. Also, since you maintained consistent business use above 50% throughout the entire period, you avoided the "listed property" recapture rules that can be much harsher. If your business use had dropped below 50% at any point, you would have faced recapture of the excess Section 179 deduction above straight-line depreciation. Given that you held the vehicle for 8 years with strong business use, I agree with the others that your recapture should be minimal. The charitable donation deduction will likely offset most or all of any recapture tax liability you do have.

I went through this exact same situation last year! FreeTaxUSA definitely allows 1099-NEC filing for free on federal returns - I had two 1099-NECs plus some other forms and didn't pay anything for federal filing. They only charge for state returns (around $15) which is still way cheaper than what other services charge just to include a 1099-NEC. For the AGI issue, I'd strongly recommend getting your actual AGI rather than entering $0 if you had any income last year. The IRS transcript service at IRS.gov is surprisingly fast - took me about 10 minutes to set up an account and get my transcript. Even if you made just a few hundred dollars last year, your AGI wouldn't be $0, and entering the wrong amount could delay your refund or cause your e-file to get rejected. FreeTaxUSA's interface is clean and straightforward compared to the flashier services. It walks you through everything step by step without trying to upsell you every few minutes. Much less stressful than dealing with constant upgrade prompts!

I can definitely confirm FreeTaxUSA handles 1099-NEC for free! I've been using them for three years now after getting fed up with TurboTax's constant fee increases. No charges for federal filing regardless of how many 1099s you have. For your AGI situation, the IRS transcript method really is your best bet. I had to do this last year when my old tax software company got acquired and I lost access to my returns. Go to IRS.gov and search for "Get Transcript Online" - you'll need to verify your identity with some personal info, but once that's done you can download your tax transcript immediately. It shows your AGI right on there along with all your other tax info from previous years. One word of caution though - if you enter $0 when your actual AGI was higher, your e-file will likely get rejected and you'll have to start over. The IRS uses prior year AGI as a security check, so accuracy matters here. Better to spend 15 minutes getting the transcript than dealing with rejection delays later! FreeTaxUSA's interface might look plain compared to the flashy competitors, but honestly that's a feature not a bug. No constant pop-ups trying to sell you "protection" or "premium" features you don't need.

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my employer reported my state taxes to the wrong state. Based on what everyone's shared, it sounds like the key points are: 1. Use ONLY the W2C for filing (not the original W2) 2. File a non-resident return in the wrong state to get those taxes back 3. File normally in your correct state using the W2C info 4. Make sure the W2C shows corrections for both states before filing One question I haven't seen addressed - does anyone know roughly how long it takes to get the refund from the wrong state? I'm wondering if I should expect it to take longer than a normal state refund since it's essentially correcting an error. Also, has anyone had issues with the wrong state questioning why they're getting a non-resident return when they have withholding records showing you as having worked there? I'm worried they might flag it as suspicious.

This is such a frustrating situation to deal with, but you're asking all the right questions! I went through something similar last year when my employer somehow reported my California income to Texas (where I've never even visited). The most important thing to remember is that since you haven't filed yet, you're actually in a better position than people who have to amend. Just wait for the W2C and use ONLY that form for all your filings - federal and both state returns. For the state filing strategy, you'll essentially be telling the wrong state "this was a mistake, give me my money back" through a non-resident return, while filing normally in your actual state. Most tax software handles this pretty well once you input the W2C information correctly. One thing I learned the hard way - double-check that your W2C has the correct state code and employer identification numbers. My first W2C had the right dollar amounts but still had some incorrect state codes, which would have caused more problems down the line. Don't be afraid to push back on your HR department if the correction looks incomplete! The whole process took about 3 months to get my refund from the wrong state, but it all worked out in the end. Hang in there - your employer's mistake will get resolved!

Has anyone tried calling Intuit directly? Maybe they can help? This seems like a massive faillure on their end.

I'm dealing with this exact same issue right now! Got my settlement check for $34 last week and it's been rejected at three different places - my credit union, Chase, and even tried at a check cashing place. The check cashing place said something about the routing number not validating properly in their system. It's so frustrating because like you said, it's not a huge amount but it's still money we're owed. I'm starting to wonder if they made the checks hard to cash on purpose. Has anyone had any luck contacting the settlement administrator directly to complain about this?