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The IRS is such a joke fr taking 6 months to verify basic info š¤”
Wow, 6 months is insane but at least you got it sorted! Looking at all those codes and adjustments, it seems like the IRS was doing a deep dive review of your return. The fact that they reduced your prior tax assessment by over $6k in September suggests they found something significant in your favor. Quick question - did you have any major life changes or income sources that might have triggered the initial freeze? Trying to figure out if there's a pattern to these long delays š¤
Same here, trying to understand what triggers these freezes! @NeonNomad did you have any W2 vs 1099 discrepancies or maybe unreported income that showed up later? The $6k adjustment is huge - that's gotta be more than just a simple verification issue right?
You might also qualify for the Qualified Business Income (QBI) deduction, which lets self-employed people deduct up to 20% of their business income. Though with your income level and the self-employment tax situation, it probably won't zero out your taxes completely.
I've never heard of this QBI deduction! Would that apply to my graphic design work? And does it reduce the self-employment tax or just income tax? Trying to understand if it would help in my situation.
The QBI deduction only reduces your income tax, not self-employment tax. Since you're already below the standard deduction threshold and won't owe income tax anyway, the QBI deduction wouldn't help you in this situation. Your graphic design work would qualify for QBI, but it's calculated after other deductions and only applies to taxable income. Since your $12k income minus the $13,850 standard deduction puts you at $0 taxable income, there's nothing for the QBI deduction to reduce further. You'd still owe the full self-employment tax on your net business income. Focus on tracking business expenses to reduce your net self-employment income - that's where you'll see real savings on the SE tax you actually owe.
One thing that might help reduce your self-employment tax burden is to make sure you're deducting the home office expenses if you work from home. As a graphic designer, if you have a dedicated space in your home that you use exclusively for your design work, you can deduct a portion of your rent/mortgage, utilities, and other home expenses. You can either use the simplified method (up to 300 sq ft at $5 per sq ft, max $1,500) or calculate the actual expenses based on the percentage of your home used for business. This directly reduces your net self-employment income, which means less self-employment tax. Also don't forget about equipment depreciation - your computer, monitor, drawing tablet, software licenses, etc. can all be deducted either as current expenses or depreciated over time depending on their cost. Every dollar you can legitimately deduct as a business expense saves you about 15 cents in self-employment tax.
This is really helpful advice! I do work from a dedicated room in my apartment that's probably about 120 square feet - so using the simplified method that would be $600 I could deduct, which would save me around $90 in self-employment taxes. Quick question though - for the equipment depreciation, I bought my main computer and design software about 8 months ago for around $2,500 total. Can I deduct the full amount this year or does it have to be spread out? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth it to go through all the paperwork for the actual expense method vs just using the simplified home office deduction.
Nina, I completely understand the overwhelming stress you're experiencing with that debt burden. Before you make any decisions about your 401k, I want to share a few additional options that might help you avoid touching your retirement savings entirely. First, have you looked into balance transfer credit cards with 0% introductory APR periods? If you still have decent credit, you might qualify for cards offering 12-21 months at 0% interest, which could give you breathing room to pay down the principal without the crushing interest charges. Second, consider reaching out to local community organizations, churches, or credit unions that sometimes offer emergency financial assistance or low-interest consolidation loans. Many credit unions have "payday alternative loans" or emergency loans at much lower rates than credit cards. Third, if you have any assets like a car that's paid off, you might explore a secured loan against it at a much lower interest rate than your credit cards - just be very careful about your ability to repay. The key thing everyone here is emphasizing is that your 401k should truly be the last resort. Between taxes, penalties, and lost compound growth, you could end up sacrificing $100k+ of retirement wealth to solve a $25k problem today. Your future self will thank you for exhausting every other option first. Have you tried calling 2-1-1 (dial 211)? It's a nationwide service that connects people with local financial assistance programs that many people don't know exist.
Grace, this is such valuable advice about the 0% balance transfer cards! I hadn't thought about that option and it could really help buy some time to tackle the principal without those crushing interest rates. Nina, I want to add one more thing that might help with your immediate cash flow - have you considered a side gig or temporary work to bring in extra income while your main work is slow? Even something like food delivery, freelance work, or seasonal retail could help you stay afloat without touching retirement funds. Also, regarding Grace's suggestion about calling 2-1-1, I've used this service before and it's amazing what resources exist that people don't know about. In my area, they connected me with utility assistance, food programs, and even emergency rental help during a tough period. Every dollar you can save on basic necessities is a dollar that can go toward debt repayment. The math everyone has shared about the long-term cost of early 401k withdrawal is really eye-opening. It's hard to think about future wealth when you're struggling today, but preserving that retirement fund could literally be the difference between financial security and poverty in your later years.
Nina, I can really feel your desperation in this situation, and I want to help you avoid what could be a very costly mistake. As others have mentioned, misrepresenting your hardship reason isn't just risky - it could lead to fraud charges that would make your current financial problems look minor in comparison. Before you consider touching your 401k, I'd strongly encourage you to explore these steps in order: 1) Contact your credit card companies immediately to ask about hardship programs - many will reduce interest rates or payments if you're proactive, 2) Look into nonprofit credit counseling through NFCC.org - they can often negotiate rates down to 6-8%, 3) Check if your 401k allows loans instead of withdrawals - you'd pay interest to yourself with no taxes or penalties. I also want to emphasize something that might not be obvious: that $25k in your 401k today could easily be worth $150k-200k by retirement with compound growth. You'd essentially be trading your future financial security for a temporary fix to today's problem. One more resource to consider: many employers have Employee Assistance Programs (EAPs) that offer financial counseling and sometimes even emergency loans or grants. It's worth checking with HR to see what might be available. Your situation feels impossible right now, but there are usually more options than we initially see when we're stressed and overwhelmed.
Am I completely misunderstanding something? I thought Roth contributions were always made with after-tax dollars, so why would lowering your MAGI matter for contribution eligibility? Isn't the whole point that you pay taxes now so you don't pay them later in retirement?
You're confusing two separate concepts. Yes, Roth contributions are always made with after-tax dollars, but there are income limits on who's ALLOWED to contribute to a Roth IRA at all. For 2025, if you're single and your MAGI is above about $140k, you start to lose eligibility to contribute to a Roth IRA. Above around $155k, you can't contribute directly to a Roth IRA at all. That's why people try to lower their MAGI - not to reduce taxes on the contribution (since as you correctly noted, Roth contributions are always after-tax), but simply to become eligible to make Roth contributions in the first place.
Based on everyone's helpful responses here, it sounds like your $4,000 charitable donation alone won't help you get under the Roth IRA income limits unless you have other significant itemized deductions totaling over $14,600. Instead, I'd recommend focusing on "above-the-line" deductions that directly reduce your MAGI regardless of whether you itemize: 1. Max out your 401(k) contributions if your employer offers one ($23,500 limit for 2025) 2. Contribute to an HSA if you're eligible ($4,150 for individual coverage in 2025) 3. Consider a traditional IRA contribution if you're not covered by a workplace plan With your $142k income, you'd only need to reduce your MAGI by about $2,000-3,000 to get comfortably under the phase-out threshold. An HSA contribution alone could get you there while also giving you triple tax benefits (deductible contribution, tax-free growth, tax-free withdrawals for medical expenses). You could still make those charitable donations for the good causes you support, but don't count on them to help with your Roth eligibility unless you're already planning to itemize for other reasons.
This is really helpful advice! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar situation. One question about the HSA strategy - do you know if there are any restrictions on when you can open an HSA account during the year? I'm thinking about switching to a high-deductible health plan specifically to take advantage of the HSA tax benefits for getting under the Roth IRA limits, but I'm not sure if there are enrollment period restrictions or if I can make this change mid-year.
Yuki Tanaka
This has been such an informative discussion! As someone who's been putting off starting affiliate marketing because of tax confusion, you've all really helped clarify things. I'm definitely going to get an EIN - the privacy protection alone makes it worth it. One thing I'm curious about that hasn't been mentioned yet - if I get an EIN now but don't actually start making any affiliate income until next year, does that cause any issues? Like, do I need to file anything special just for having the EIN, or does it only matter once I actually start earning money? Also, for those tracking expenses, do you separate out expenses that are partially personal use? For example, if I upgrade my internet plan partly for affiliate work but also just because I wanted faster speeds for streaming, how do you handle that on the business side? Thanks again everyone - this community has been incredibly helpful for a newcomer like me!
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Amina Diallo
ā¢Great questions! Having an EIN without earning income won't cause any issues - there's no requirement to file anything special just for having the number. The EIN essentially just sits there unused until you actually start earning money and need to report it. So you can get it now and start using it whenever you're ready to begin affiliate marketing. For expenses with mixed personal/business use, you'll want to calculate the business percentage and only deduct that portion. For your internet example, if you determine that 30% of your usage is for affiliate work, you'd deduct 30% of the cost. The key is being reasonable and consistent with your calculations, and documenting your reasoning. Some people track their actual usage for a month to establish a baseline percentage. Keep detailed records of your reasoning for the business percentage - this helps if you ever need to justify the deduction. And remember, it's better to be conservative than aggressive with mixed-use expenses!
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Yara Khoury
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I just wanted to add my experience as someone who recently went through this process. I got my EIN about 6 months ago specifically for affiliate marketing, and it's been one of the best decisions I made. One thing I learned that might help others - when you're filling out W-9 forms for affiliate programs, make sure you select the correct tax classification. As a sole proprietor with an EIN, you'll typically check "Individual/sole proprietor" and then write your EIN in the tax ID field instead of your SSN. Some people get confused and think they need to check "LLC" or something else, but if you haven't formed a separate business entity, you're still an individual/sole proprietor even with an EIN. Also, I'd recommend keeping a simple log of which affiliate programs you've provided your EIN to and when. This has helped me anticipate which 1099s to expect at the end of the year and follow up if any seem to be missing. The organization aspect really does make tax season much less stressful! For anyone still hesitant - the whole process took me maybe 15 minutes on the IRS website, and the peace of mind has been worth so much more than that small time investment.
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Dominique Adams
ā¢This is exactly the kind of practical advice I was looking for! The W-9 classification detail is super helpful - I probably would have been confused about which box to check. Your point about keeping a log of which programs you've given your EIN to is brilliant. I can already see how that would save a lot of headache during tax season when you're trying to figure out if you received all the 1099s you should have. One follow-up question - when you provide your EIN to affiliate programs, do they treat your application any differently than if you had used an SSN? I'm wondering if having an EIN makes you look more professional to the programs or if they don't really care either way. Some of the higher-tier programs seem pretty selective about who they accept.
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