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I'm really confused about this whole worksheet thing. Does it matter which tax software I use? Will it calculate this stuff for me automatically? I've been using FreeTaxUSA but not sure if it handles this IRA contribution limit calculation correctly.
Most tax software will help calculate your eligible contribution amount, but they typically don't help with planning FUTURE contributions based on projected income, which seems to be what you're trying to do. I've used FreeTaxUSA and TurboTax, and both will tell you if you've over-contributed after the fact, but they're not great for planning.
I went through this exact same situation last year when I got a mid-year raise that pushed me into the phase-out range! The 590-A Worksheet 2-1 is definitely confusing at first, but once you break it down step by step, it becomes manageable. One thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track my income throughout the year so I could project my final MAGI more accurately. Since your income changed mid-year, you'll want to calculate your total projected annual income (including the promotion bump) to determine where you fall in the phase-out range. Also, don't forget that your Modified AGI might be different from your regular AGI - you need to add back certain deductions like student loan interest, tuition deductions, or foreign earned income exclusion if any apply to you. The IRS instructions for Form 8606 have a good breakdown of what gets added back. If you're still feeling overwhelmed, consider reaching out to a tax professional or even calling the IRS directly for guidance on your specific situation. It's better to get it right now than deal with penalties later!
Thanks for sharing your experience with the mid-year income change - that's exactly what I'm dealing with! The spreadsheet idea is really smart. I've been trying to estimate my year-end income but wasn't sure how precise I needed to be. Quick question about the Modified AGI calculation - I have student loan interest deductions and contribute to an HSA. Do both of those get added back when calculating MAGI for IRA purposes? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything that could affect my phase-out calculation. Also, did you end up having to make any adjustments to contributions you'd already made earlier in the year before you got the raise?
Great question about the Modified AGI calculation! For IRA contribution purposes, you actually DON'T add back student loan interest deductions or HSA contributions - those stay deducted from your AGI. The items you typically add back for MAGI include things like traditional IRA deductions, foreign earned income exclusion, and certain other specific deductions listed in the IRS instructions. Since you mentioned HSA contributions, those actually help keep your MAGI lower, which is good for staying under the phase-out thresholds! Regarding adjustments to earlier contributions - yes, I did have to be careful about that. I had already contributed $3,000 early in the year when I thought I'd be eligible for the full amount. Once I calculated my reduced limit was only $4,200 total for the year, I had to make sure my remaining contributions didn't exceed $1,200. If you've already over-contributed based on your new calculation, you'll need to withdraw the excess (plus any earnings) before your tax filing deadline to avoid penalties. The key is getting your projected annual income as accurate as possible now so you can adjust your contribution strategy for the rest of the year!
Just want to add that if you're really anxious about what they might need, you can also check if your tax preparer (if you used one) has any insights. Sometimes they've seen similar requests from NY and can give you a heads up on what to gather while you wait for the letter. Also, make sure you keep checking that refund status page every few days - sometimes it updates with more specific info or the status changes before the letter even arrives. I've seen people get their refunds processed faster than expected when they stayed on top of it. The good news is that NY generally processes these verification requests pretty efficiently once they have what they need. Most people I know who've gone through this got their refunds within a month of sending in the docs. Hang in there!
Great point about checking with your tax preparer! I used TurboTax and when I called them about a similar situation, they actually had a whole section in their help center about NY state verification letters. They even had sample letters showing what the most common requests look like. Also totally agree about checking the status page frequently - mine actually updated to show "documents received" about 3 days before I got any official confirmation. It's like a little breadcrumb trail that helps reduce the anxiety of not knowing what's happening with your money! One more tip: when you do upload the documents online, take screenshots of the confirmation pages. I've heard of people having issues where the system didn't properly record their submission, so having proof helps if you need to follow up.
I'm going through the exact same thing right now! Got that message on the NY tax site about 5 days ago and have been checking my mailbox obsessively ever since. It's so frustrating not knowing what they want. From reading everyone's experiences here, it sounds like it's usually pretty routine stuff - W-2s, identity verification, maybe some supporting docs for deductions. I'm trying to stay optimistic that it's just their standard fraud prevention measures kicking in. One thing I'm wondering about - has anyone here had experience with the email alerts feature they mention? I signed up for it hoping it might give me updates when they receive my documents (whenever I finally get that letter and can respond). Curious if those alerts actually work or if they're just for the final refund approval. Also appreciate everyone mentioning the online upload option. I was planning to mail everything but sounds like digital is definitely the way to go for faster processing. Fingers crossed we both get our letters soon and can get this resolved quickly!
I feel you on the obsessive mailbox checking! š Going through the same anxiety right now. From what I've read here and other forums, the email alerts are mainly for the final refund approval - they'll tell you when it's processed and the amount, but don't usually give updates on document review status. Still worth signing up for though since at least you'll know immediately when everything's cleared. I've been gathering my W-2s and other docs just in case, even before getting the letter. Figure it's better to be prepared! The waiting is definitely the worst part but sounds like most people get through this pretty smoothly. We got this! šŖ
Just wanted to add another consideration that might be relevant to your situation - since you mentioned real estate is how you and your wife make your living, you'll want to be extra careful about the dealer vs investor classification. The IRS looks at this holistically across both spouses' activities. Even though you're only doing 1-2 properties per year, the fact that you described it as "how we make our living" combined with your pattern of buying, improving, and selling could potentially push you toward dealer status. This is especially true if your wife is more actively involved in the renovation work or property management side. The good news is that with your holding periods of over a year and substantial improvements, you're building a strong case for investor treatment. Just make sure to document the investment intent for each property (maybe keep notes about your long-term holding plans when you purchase) and maintain clear records showing these are capital investments rather than inventory for a trade or business. Given the potential for 0% capital gains treatment that others mentioned, it's definitely worth getting this classification right. A tax professional familiar with real estate investors might be worth consulting, especially since this appears to be an ongoing activity for you both.
This is a really important point about the dealer vs investor classification when both spouses are involved in real estate activities. I've seen cases where people thought they were safe because they weren't doing "that many" deals, but the IRS looked at the totality of circumstances and classified them as dealers anyway. One thing that might help strengthen your investor case is if you can show that the real estate activities are truly investment-focused rather than a primary business operation. For example, if your wife has other employment or business activities beyond just the real estate, or if you can demonstrate that you're holding properties for appreciation rather than quick turnaround, that supports investor treatment. The documentation suggestion is spot-on - keeping contemporaneous records of your investment intent when you purchase each property can be crucial if the IRS ever questions your classification. Something as simple as written notes about your plans to hold for rental income or long-term appreciation can make a big difference. Given that you might qualify for 0% capital gains as an investor versus ordinary income tax plus self-employment tax as a dealer, this classification could literally save you thousands of dollars. Definitely worth getting professional guidance on this specific issue.
I just wanted to chime in as someone who's been through a similar situation with multiple property sales in one tax year. A few additional thoughts that might help: One thing that really saved me was creating a detailed spreadsheet tracking all expenses for each property separately - not just major renovations, but also smaller improvements, professional fees, closing costs, and even travel expenses related to property management. These all add to your cost basis and reduce taxable gains. Also, regarding the dealer vs investor question that's come up several times - I found it helpful to maintain separate documentation showing investment intent for each property. Things like rental income (even if minimal), property management expenses, and evidence of holding for appreciation rather than quick sale all support investor classification. Given your unique situation with veterans benefits potentially putting you in the 0% capital gains bracket, you're in an enviable position! Just make sure to run the numbers carefully as you approach year-end, especially if you have any other income sources that might push you above those thresholds. One last tip: consider consulting with a tax professional who specifically works with real estate investors before you close on that primary residence sale. The timing and documentation strategies could make a significant difference, and with potentially zero tax liability on both sales, it's worth getting it exactly right.
Just want to add that if you're a "small business taxpayer" under the tax law (meaning under $26 million in gross receipts), you have ADDITIONAL inventory simplifications available. You can treat inventory as "non-incidental materials and supplies" which means you deduct them when used or consumed, not through formal COGS calculations. Publication 538 doesn't explain this super clearly, but the guidance in Revenue Procedure 2018-40 does.
That non-incidental materials treatment is a GAME CHANGER for small makers! My accountant didn't even know about this until I pointed it out. It means you can essentially expense materials when you buy them rather than tracking them through complicated inventory systems.
This is exactly the kind of situation where the simplified rules for small businesses really shine! Since you're clearly under the $26 million threshold, you have several advantages that larger businesses don't get. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given - when you switch back to cash method, you might also want to consider the "materials and supplies" election under Section 1.162-3. This lets you deduct the cost of your wood, hardware, and finishing materials when you actually use them in projects, rather than having to track them as formal inventory with COGS calculations. The combination of cash method + materials/supplies treatment could be perfect for a custom furniture business. You'd record income when customers actually pay you, and you'd deduct material costs as you use them in projects. Much simpler bookkeeping than accrual with full inventory tracking! Just make sure when you file Form 3115 that you're clear about both changes - the accounting method change AND any inventory method changes. The IRS likes transparency about exactly what you're switching from and to.
This is incredibly helpful! I had no idea about the materials and supplies election under Section 1.162-3. So if I understand correctly, I could potentially make both changes at the same time - switch to cash method AND elect to treat my wood and hardware as materials/supplies rather than inventory? That would solve both my accounting headaches at once. Do I need to file separate forms for these changes, or can they both be handled on the same Form 3115? Also, is there any downside to the materials/supplies treatment that I should be aware of before making this election?
Emma Thompson
I went through this exact same situation two years ago - the panic is real but totally manageable! Here's what worked for me: First, breathe. Your tax return is still valid and processed - only the payment bounced. The IRS systems are set up to handle this. Go to IRS.gov and use their "Direct Pay" system. It's free for bank transfers (unlike credit cards which have fees). You'll need your SSN, the exact amount owed, and your bank info. The system will ask you to verify some info from your tax return to make sure it's really you. Pro tip: Make the payment TODAY if possible. The IRS typically gives you about 10 business days from when the payment bounced before penalties kick in, but don't push it. Also, keep your confirmation number and print the confirmation page - this is your proof of payment. I made my replacement payment within 3 days of the bounce and never had any issues. No audit flags, no penalties, nothing. The IRS deals with bounced payments constantly - you're definitely not the first person to have a small charge mess up the timing! One last thing - after you make the payment, give it about a week then check your IRS online account to confirm it was applied correctly. The "View Your Account Information" tool will show your payment history.
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Chloe Taylor
ā¢This is incredibly helpful advice! I just wanted to add that when you use the Direct Pay system, make sure you're on the official IRS.gov website - there are some sketchy look-alike sites that try to charge fees for what should be a free service. The real Direct Pay system will never ask for a processing fee when you pay by bank transfer. Also, if you're worried about the timing, you can set up the payment for a future date (like tomorrow) rather than immediate processing. This gives you a little buffer to make sure everything is set up correctly before the money actually moves.
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Marina Hendrix
Just wanted to share my experience since I went through this exact scenario last month! The good news is that bounced tax payments are actually pretty common and the IRS has streamlined processes to handle them. Here's what I learned: The IRS gives you a grace period (usually 10-15 business days) from when the payment bounced to resubmit without penalties, but don't wait around. I used the IRS Direct Pay system and it was surprisingly straightforward - just make sure you select "Form 1040 series" as your payment type and enter the tax year correctly. One thing that really helped my peace of mind was setting up an IRS online account after making the replacement payment. You can see your payment history and account balance in real-time, so you'll know for sure when your payment is processed and applied. It took about 2-3 business days for my payment to show up there. Also, don't feel bad about the gym membership timing - I've heard of people having payments bounce because of everything from Netflix renewals to automatic coffee subscriptions. Life happens! The important thing is you caught it quickly and are taking action. You're going to be just fine - this won't affect your return, won't trigger an audit, and won't cause any long-term issues. Just get that payment resubmitted ASAP and keep the confirmation for your records.
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Dmitry Petrov
ā¢This is such reassuring advice, thank you! I'm definitely going to set up that IRS online account after I make my payment - being able to see the real-time status sounds like it would save so much anxiety. One quick question - when you say it took 2-3 business days for the payment to show up, was that from when you submitted it or from when it was actually withdrawn from your bank account? I want to make sure I'm not panicking if I don't see it reflected immediately. Also appreciate you mentioning that this stuff happens to everyone. I was feeling pretty stupid about the whole gym membership thing, but you're right - these automatic payments are everywhere now and it's easy to lose track of timing!
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Melissa Lin
ā¢The 2-3 business days was from when I submitted the payment online, not from when it was withdrawn from my bank. The actual withdrawal usually happens within 1-2 business days of submission, but it takes another day or so after that for it to show up in your IRS account balance. So the timeline looked like this for me: submitted payment on Monday, saw it withdrawn from my bank account on Wednesday, and then saw it reflected in my IRS online account on Thursday. Don't worry if you don't see immediate updates - the IRS systems aren't as fast as your banking apps! And seriously, don't beat yourself up about the gym membership thing. I've seen people in this community talk about payments bouncing because of everything from dog daycare to Spotify premium upgrades. These little recurring charges are designed to be "set it and forget it" so it's totally normal to lose track. The fact that you caught it this quickly and are handling it properly shows you're on top of your finances!
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