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Has anyone ever done this through TurboTax? I have a similar issue but from 2023 and I'm wondering if I can just fix it when I file my taxes this year.

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Zainab Yusuf

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For a 2023 excess contribution, you're actually still within the timeframe to fix it without penalties! You have until your tax filing deadline (including extensions) to remove excess contributions from the previous year. So for 2023 contributions, you have until April 15, 2025 (or October 15, 2025 if you file an extension).

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I had almost the exact same situation with a 2019 HSA excess contribution that I didn't catch until 2022. The key is being persistent with your HSA provider - don't accept "we can't do that" as an answer. Here's what worked for me: I called Optum (same provider as you) and specifically asked for their "Tax Compliance Department" rather than regular customer service. The regular reps often don't understand the rules for correcting prior-year excess contributions. When I got through to tax compliance, they knew exactly what I was talking about and processed my excess contribution removal within a week. You'll need to specify on the form that this is for tax year 2020, and make sure you request the withdrawal of just the excess amount ($800 in your case) - don't include any earnings on that amount unless you want to pay taxes on those earnings. The good news is you won't need to amend any prior returns, and you'll stop paying that 6% penalty going forward. One tip: if they still give you pushback, mention IRS Revenue Ruling 2004-41 which specifically addresses corrections of excess HSA contributions from prior years. That usually gets their attention!

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Don't forget you can also spread the income from a qualified disaster distribution over 3 years! So if you qualify for the disaster exception, you could include just 1/3 of the distribution in your income this year, and the rest in the next two years. Helps with the tax hit.

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Aisha Khan

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Is that still available? I thought that was only for COVID-related distributions and expired after 2020?

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The 3-year income spreading option is still available for qualified disaster distributions, not just COVID-related ones! This applies to distributions from retirement plans due to federally declared disasters. You can elect to include the distribution in income ratably over the 3-year period beginning with the year of distribution. To do this, you'll need to file Form 8915-F (Qualified Disaster Retirement Plan Distributions and Repayments) along with your return. This form lets you specify how much of the distribution to include in each year's income. Since you withdrew $13,500, you could potentially include $4,500 in income each year for three years instead of taking the full tax hit this year. Just make sure your hurricane situation qualifies as a federally declared disaster in your area before electing this option. The IRS has specific requirements about timing and geographic areas that qualify.

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This is really helpful information about Form 8915-F! I had no idea you could spread the income over three years for disaster distributions. That would definitely help with the tax burden. Do you know if there's a deadline for making this election, or can you choose to do it when you file your return? Also, if you elect the 3-year spreading, does that affect the penalty exception at all, or are those two separate things?

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Just to clarify something that might be confusing from the other responses - you absolutely DO need to report that $1,200 as taxable income on your federal return, regardless of whether you itemize deductions or take the standard deduction. The gambling winnings get reported as "Other Income" on your 1040. The loss deduction piece is separate and optional - you can only deduct gambling losses if you itemize deductions AND only up to the amount of your winnings. So if you normally take the standard deduction (which most people do), you'd pay taxes on the full $1,200 and wouldn't be able to deduct that $300 loss. Make sure you received the W-2G form from the casino when you collected your winnings - they're required to give it to you at the time of payout for slot wins of $1,200 or more. You'll need that form to complete your tax return. If you didn't get it or lost it, contact the casino's player services department to get a copy.

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This is really helpful clarification! I'm in a similar situation where I had some smaller casino wins throughout the year (nothing over $1,200 so no W-2G forms) but I normally take the standard deduction. So if I understand correctly, I still need to report all those wins as income even without the forms, but I can't deduct my losses unless I switch to itemizing - which probably wouldn't be worth it for most people since the standard deduction is usually higher anyway, right? Also, just to make sure I understand the multi-state thing that was mentioned earlier - if I had winnings in multiple states, do I need to file returns in each state where I won money, or just report everything on my home state return?

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Zainab Ahmed

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You've got it exactly right! Yes, you need to report all gambling winnings as income regardless of whether you got forms, and you're correct that for most people the standard deduction is higher than what they'd get from itemizing (especially if gambling losses are your main itemizable deduction). For the multi-state question - you typically need to file a nonresident return in each state where you had winnings, then report everything on your home state return too. Your home state should give you a credit for taxes paid to other states so you don't get double-taxed. It's extra paperwork but usually not too complicated. Some states have minimum thresholds though, so small wins might not trigger a filing requirement. You'd need to check each state's specific rules or consult a tax professional if you have winnings across multiple states.

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One thing that helped me when I was in a similar situation was keeping track of the exact time and date of both my losses and winnings during that casino visit. Since you mentioned losing $300 before hitting the $1,200 jackpot all in the same trip, you might want to check if your player's club card tracked those transactions automatically. Many casinos keep detailed records of your play when you use their rewards card, and you can often request a win/loss statement from them that shows all your activity for that day. This can serve as official documentation for both your winnings and losses, which is really helpful if you do decide to itemize deductions. Even if you end up taking the standard deduction, having that documentation is good to keep for your records in case the IRS ever has questions about your return. Also, don't forget that if any taxes were withheld from your winnings (which sometimes happens on larger jackpots), that information should be on your W-2G form and you can claim those withholdings as payments made toward your tax liability.

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Paolo Marino

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That's a great point about the player's club card tracking! I didn't even think about that when I was at the casino. I do remember using my rewards card for most of my play that day, so I should definitely contact them to get a win/loss statement. That would make documentation so much easier than trying to piece together receipts and remember exact amounts. Quick question though - if the casino shows I actually lost more than $300 during other parts of that trip (maybe from table games or other slots I don't remember), could I potentially deduct those additional losses too? Or does it only count the losses that happened right before the big win? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the effort to itemize if my total losses for that trip were higher than I initially thought.

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Aaron Lee

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Has anyone actually gotten an IRS penalty for HSA over-contributions before? I'm wondering how strict they are about this stuff. I think I might have over-contributed last year but never fixed it and haven't heard anything.

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Yes, I got hit with the 6% excise tax for an HSA excess contribution I didn't correct. It wasn't a huge amount (around $75 penalty for my $1,250 over-contribution), but the annoying part was filling out Form 5329. The IRS does check this, especially if your W-2 and HSA provider both report contribution amounts that exceed the limits.

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Amara Okafor

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I went through something very similar last year! You're absolutely right that you can still contribute that $150 to get back to your maximum allowable contribution for 2024. As others mentioned, you have until April 15th, 2025 to make 2024 HSA contributions. One thing I'd add is to keep really good records of all these transactions. I created a simple spreadsheet tracking: original contributions, the excess amount, withdrawal date and amount, and then the corrective contribution. This made tax filing much easier and gave me peace of mind if the IRS ever had questions. Also, don't stress too much about the "return of excess contributions" form you already filed - that was correct for the portion that was actually excess. The additional $150 you're putting back in is just you using up your remaining contribution room for 2024, which is totally separate and allowed. Just make sure when you contribute that $150 with Fidelity, you explicitly designate it as a 2024 contribution in their system. Their interface makes this pretty clear during the contribution process.

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This is really helpful advice about keeping detailed records! I'm actually dealing with a similar HSA situation right now and hadn't thought about creating a spreadsheet to track everything. Do you have any specific columns or categories you'd recommend including beyond what you mentioned? I want to make sure I document everything properly in case there are questions later.

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ShadowHunter

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19 Has anyone here dealt with self-employment taxes when transitioning from employee to owner of an S corp? I'm in a similar situation and confused about whether I should be paying self-employment tax on all business profits now or just my salary portion?

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There's no specific formula, but the IRS looks at what you would pay someone else to do your job. They consider factors like your role, responsibilities, hours worked, industry standards, and geographic location. A good rule of thumb is to research what similar positions pay in your area and use that as a baseline. Some tax professionals suggest keeping salary at least 40-60% of net business income, but that's just a guideline. The key is being able to justify your salary amount if questioned. Document your research on comparable salaries and keep records of your duties and time commitment to the business. Since you're coming from being an employee in the same business, you probably have a good sense of what the role is worth. Just make sure you're not dramatically underpaying yourself compared to what you were earning before, especially if your responsibilities have increased as the owner.

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Zoe Stavros

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Great advice from Leeann! I'd also suggest documenting your decision-making process for the salary amount in case the IRS ever questions it. Keep records of salary surveys you looked at, job postings for similar roles, and maybe even get quotes from recruiters about what they'd expect to pay for your position. One thing that helped me was actually looking at what other S corp owners in similar businesses were paying themselves (you can sometimes find this info in industry reports or through business associations). Since you took over from family, you want to be extra careful that the salary looks legitimate and market-based rather than just continuing whatever arbitrary amount was set before. The 40-60% guideline mentioned above is helpful, but remember it can vary a lot by industry. In some businesses, owner-operators might justifiably take 70-80% as salary if they're doing most of the work, while in others with high profit margins, a smaller percentage might be reasonable.

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Great discussion here! I went through a similar S corp ownership transfer from my uncle about 18 months ago and wanted to share a few additional considerations that came up during my experience. One thing that caught me off guard was the potential impact of any outstanding business loans or debts that transferred with the ownership. If your dad had any business loans that you assumed as part of the purchase, this can affect your stock basis calculations in ways I didn't initially understand. Make sure your accountant reviews any debt assumptions as part of the transfer. Also, if the business has accumulated earnings and profits (E&P) from before it elected S corp status, or if it was previously a C corp, there could be some built-in gains tax implications down the road. This is pretty technical stuff, but worth asking about since family transfers sometimes involve businesses that have been around for decades. The reasonable salary discussion above is spot on - I ended up having to adjust mine upward after my first year because I was being too conservative. Better to err on the side of paying yourself fairly from the start rather than having to explain to the IRS later why you were trying to minimize payroll taxes. One last tip: keep detailed records of everything related to the transfer. The IRS loves documentation, especially for family business transactions where they might be more scrutinizing of the terms and pricing.

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Dylan Evans

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you for sharing your experience! The point about outstanding business loans affecting stock basis is something I hadn't considered at all. My dad did have a business line of credit that I assumed as part of the purchase - I'll definitely need to discuss this with my accountant. Quick question about the built-in gains tax you mentioned - how do you even find out if there are accumulated E&P issues? Is this something that would show up on previous tax returns, or do you need to dig deeper into the company's history? My dad's business has been an S corp for about 15 years, so I'm hoping this won't be an issue, but I'd rather know now than be surprised later. Also completely agree on the documentation point. I've been pretty good about keeping records of the transfer itself, but I should probably also document my salary decision-making process like others suggested above. Better safe than sorry when it comes to IRS scrutiny of family transactions!

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