IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Axel Far

•

Hey Zoe! I was in almost the exact same situation last year - $2,900 debt while finishing my master's degree and working part-time. I was so nervous about that call too, but it turned out way better than expected. For your amount, you'll definitely qualify for the streamlined agreement. I told them I could afford $85/month and they accepted it immediately - no financial paperwork required. The IRS rep was actually really patient and explained all my options clearly. One tip: when you call, mention that you're a student working part-time right upfront. They seemed to take that into consideration and didn't pressure me to pay more than I said I could handle. Also, they'll ask when you want your first payment due - I asked for it to start the following month to give myself time to adjust my budget. The whole process took maybe 20 minutes once I got through, and those scary letters stopped coming within a couple weeks. You've got this!

0 coins

Luca Bianchi

•

That's such a relief to hear from someone who was in basically the same boat! The $85/month you mentioned sounds totally reasonable for my situation too. I really appreciate the tip about mentioning being a student upfront - I hadn't thought about how that might help frame the conversation. Did you end up paying any setup fees for the payment plan, or was it just the monthly payments? Also, when you say the scary letters stopped - did you still get regular statements or reminders about your payments, or did all IRS mail basically stop once you were on the plan?

0 coins

Ryan Vasquez

•

There's a small setup fee for installment agreements - I think it was around $31 for the online application or $43 if you set it up over the phone. But if you qualify for low-income (which as a part-time student you probably do), the fee can be reduced to just $10. After setting up the payment plan, I still got monthly statements from the IRS showing my remaining balance and payment due date, but those scary "FINAL NOTICE" type letters completely stopped. The monthly statements are actually helpful because they show exactly how much of your payment went to principal vs. interest, and you can see your balance going down each month. Way less stressful than those collection notices!

0 coins

One thing that really helped me when I was setting up my payment plan was understanding that the IRS actually has different "ability to pay" thresholds. If your monthly income minus necessary living expenses is below certain amounts, they're much more flexible with payment terms. As a part-time student, you likely qualify for what they call "allowable living expenses" which include reasonable amounts for housing, utilities, transportation, food, healthcare, and even some educational expenses. They use standardized amounts for these categories, so even if your actual rent is high, they'll consider the standard allowance for your area. The key is being honest about your situation but also knowing your rights. You don't have to accept the first payment amount they suggest if it truly creates a financial hardship. I ended up getting my $3,400 debt down to $65/month payments over 60 months by explaining my student status and providing basic income information. Also, make sure to ask about the first-time penalty abatement if you've never had tax issues before - it can reduce your total debt significantly by removing failure-to-pay penalties.

0 coins

Jibriel Kohn

•

This is incredibly helpful information! I had no idea about the standardized allowable living expenses or that they had different thresholds based on ability to pay. The fact that they might even consider educational expenses as part of the calculation is huge for someone in my situation. The first-time penalty abatement you mentioned sounds like it could really make a difference too - I've never had any tax issues before this, so I should definitely qualify. Do you know if I need to request that separately, or can I ask about it when I'm setting up the payment plan? Your $65/month example gives me a lot of hope that I can get something truly manageable. I was worried they'd stick to that $75/month calculation others mentioned, but knowing there's flexibility based on actual financial circumstances makes this whole process seem much less intimidating.

0 coins

This has been an incredibly helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation - variable income throughout the year and trying to avoid overpaying estimated taxes during lower-income quarters. One thing I wanted to add for anyone following along: if you're self-employed or have significant 1099 income in addition to your W-2, don't forget to factor in the self-employment tax when doing your annualized calculations. The SE tax applies to the full amount of self-employment income (subject to Social Security wage base limits), and it's easy to underestimate your total tax liability if you only focus on income tax. Also, I've found it helpful to do a mid-quarter check-in on my calculations, especially for Q1 when you might get late-arriving tax documents (like corrected 1099s or K-1s) that could affect your annualized projections. Better to adjust early than get surprised at filing time. For those using tax software or online tools, make sure whatever system you choose can handle multiple income types and timing differences. I learned this lesson the hard way when my first tax software couldn't properly account for the timing of my consulting income versus my day job salary. The record-keeping advice mentioned earlier is spot-on - I keep a monthly spreadsheet with income sources, estimated tax payments made, and withholdings. Takes 10 minutes a month but saves hours during tax season and gives me peace of mind that I'm on track.

0 coins

Great point about self-employment tax! That's something I completely overlooked in my original question. I do have some 1099 consulting income on top of my W-2, and you're right that the SE tax calculation can really throw off your estimates if you're not careful about it. The mid-quarter check-in is brilliant advice too. I've already had one corrected 1099 come in that changed my Q1 numbers slightly. Nothing major, but it made me realize how easy it would be to base my whole year's estimated payments on incomplete information from January. Your point about tax software capabilities is something I hadn't considered either. I was planning to just use the basic version of my usual software, but it sounds like I might need to upgrade to handle the complexity of annualized calculations with multiple income streams and timing differences. Better to invest in the right tools upfront than deal with penalties later. Thanks for sharing your monthly tracking approach - that sounds much more manageable than trying to reconstruct everything quarterly. I'm definitely going to set up something similar. This whole thread has been a masterclass in estimated tax planning!

0 coins

Zoe Stavros

•

This thread has been incredibly comprehensive! As a tax professional who works with clients in similar situations, I want to add a few practical tips that might help anyone implementing the annualized income method: **Quarterly Documentation Best Practices:** - Create a simple one-page summary for each quarter showing your income sources, deductions, annualization factor, and resulting tax calculation - Include copies of pay stubs, 1099s, and any other income documents received during that quarter - Note any assumptions made (like estimated K-1 amounts) so you can adjust in later quarters **Common Pitfalls to Avoid:** - Don't forget state estimated taxes if you live in a high-tax state - the annualized method applies there too - Remember that some deductions (like student loan interest or IRA contributions) have income phase-outs that might affect your calculations - If you're married, make sure you're coordinating estimated payments with your spouse's withholding and any estimated payments they might be making **Technology Integration:** While manual tracking works great, many modern accounting software solutions can help automate the quarterly income tracking. Even basic versions of QuickBooks or similar software can categorize income by quarter and generate reports that make the annualized calculations much easier. **Final Reality Check:** Always do a sanity check by comparing your calculated quarterly payment to what you would owe using the equal installment method. If there's a huge discrepancy, double-check your math - it's easy to make errors when annualizing complex income streams. The annualized method is powerful for uneven income situations, but it does require more attention to detail than the standard approach. The effort is usually worth it to avoid overpaying during low-income quarters!

0 coins

Maya Diaz

•

This is exactly the kind of comprehensive guidance I was hoping to find! As someone new to dealing with complex estimated tax situations, I really appreciate how this thread has evolved from the basic question about annualized income calculations to covering all these practical implementation details. The point about state estimated taxes is particularly important - I live in California and completely forgot that I'd need to apply similar logic to my state tax calculations. That could have been an expensive oversight! I'm curious about the technology integration you mentioned. For someone just starting out with this level of tax complexity, would you recommend jumping straight into accounting software, or is it better to do it manually for the first year to really understand the process? I'm worried about becoming too dependent on automated calculations without understanding the underlying mechanics. Also, regarding the sanity check comparison to equal installment method - is there a rule of thumb for how different the payments should be? I'm getting nervous about my Q2 payment being significantly lower than what I paid in Q1, even though the math seems right based on the annualized method. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion - it's been incredibly educational!

0 coins

Sean Kelly

•

Just a quick warning - be careful with daycares that shut down suddenly like this. We had a similar situation and it turned out the owner was being investigated for tax fraud. Make sure you keep ALL your receipts and documentation showing you paid them. If they weren't reporting income or paying taxes, there's a small chance this could come back to haunt you if there's ever an investigation.

0 coins

Zara Malik

•

Oh no, that sounds scary. Did you end up having any issues with your own taxes after that happened? I'm in a similar boat with a daycare that just vanished overnight.

0 coins

Miguel Diaz

•

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! My son's daycare also disappeared suddenly in the middle of the year, and I was panicking about Form 2441. After reading through all these comments, I feel much more confident about how to handle it. A few things I learned from my research that might help others: 1. The IRS Publication 503 specifically mentions situations where providers refuse to give tax information or can't be contacted. You're not penalized for their non-compliance. 2. I found that some states maintain databases of licensed childcare providers that include tax ID information. It's worth checking your state's Department of Human Services or similar agency website. 3. If you paid by check or credit card, those records can serve as additional documentation of legitimate childcare expenses, especially if the provider's bank information is visible. The most important thing I learned is that the IRS cares more about whether you actually had legitimate childcare expenses than tracking down every provider's tax information. As long as you document your reasonable efforts to obtain the information and report what you have, you should be fine. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - it really helped reduce my stress about this whole situation!

0 coins

Evelyn Kim

•

This is such helpful information, thank you for sharing! I'm new to this community and dealing with my first dependent care FSA situation. Your point about checking state databases for licensed providers is really smart - I hadn't thought of that. I'm curious about your mention of bank information being visible on checks. Did you mean the routing number on the daycare's deposit stamp, or something else? I paid our provider by check too and I'm wondering if there's information there that could help identify their business properly. Also, did you end up finding any useful information through your state's Department of Human Services database?

0 coins

Mei Chen

•

I'm dealing with something very similar! Filed on 2/18 and still showing pending status. What's frustrating is that I've been filing electronically for years and this is the longest I've ever waited just for acceptance. After reading through all these responses, I'm definitely going to check my TurboTax account more thoroughly - sounds like there might be hidden rejection notices that I missed. It's reassuring to know others are experiencing delays too, but concerning that it might actually be a rejection issue rather than just processing backlogs. Has anyone found that calling TurboTax support was more helpful than waiting for the IRS to respond?

0 coins

Nia Williams

•

I'm in the exact same boat as you! Filed on 2/16 and still pending. After reading everyone's responses here, I just logged into my TurboTax account and sure enough - there was a rejection notice buried in the documents section that I completely missed. Apparently there was an issue with my prior year AGI. I'm actually glad I found this thread because I would have kept waiting indefinitely otherwise. Definitely call TurboTax first - their support was way more helpful than trying to reach the IRS directly. They walked me through exactly what needed to be fixed and I was able to resubmit same day.

0 coins

Maya Patel

•

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I filed on 2/20 and have been in the same pending limbo. After reading everyone's experiences, I immediately checked my TurboTax account and found a rejection notice from 2/25 that I completely missed - it was buried under "Tax Documents" rather than being prominently displayed. The issue was my bank routing number had a typo, so even though the return was accepted, the direct deposit information was flagged. I just corrected it and resubmitted, and it was accepted within 2 hours. For anyone still waiting, definitely dig deep into your TurboTax account interface - don't just rely on the main dashboard status. Sometimes these rejection notices are hidden in the most obscure places!

0 coins

Lily Young

•

Hey quick question about timing - can I still make a contribution to my Roth IRA for 2024 even though it's 2025 now? I just realized I didn't max out my contributions last year.

0 coins

Ezra Bates

•

Yes, you can absolutely still make Roth IRA contributions for 2024! You have until the tax filing deadline (April 15, 2025) to make 2024 contributions. Just make sure when you make the contribution, you specifically tell your financial institution that it's for tax year 2024, not 2025. Most online systems have a dropdown or option to select which tax year you're contributing for during this period.

0 coins

Just wanted to add something that might help other newcomers like myself - I was also confused about the contribution limits when I started my Roth IRA. For 2024, the contribution limit is $6,500 if you're under 50, or $7,500 if you're 50 or older (that extra $1,000 is called a "catch-up contribution"). Also, there are income limits for Roth IRA contributions. If you make too much money, you might not be eligible to contribute directly to a Roth IRA. For 2024, the phase-out starts at $138,000 for single filers and $218,000 for married filing jointly. Don't worry about reporting your contributions on your tax return though - everyone here is right about that. The beauty of Roth IRAs is their simplicity from a tax reporting perspective. You pay taxes upfront on the money you contribute, then it grows tax-free and you can withdraw it tax-free in retirement. Much simpler than trying to figure out Traditional IRA deduction rules!

0 coins

This is super helpful, thank you! I had no idea about the income limits. I'm definitely under the $138k threshold as a single filer, so I'm good there. One follow-up question - when you mention paying taxes "upfront" on Roth contributions, that just means the money I'm contributing has already been taxed through my regular paycheck withholdings, right? I don't need to do anything special or pay additional taxes when I make the contribution? Also, is there a penalty if I accidentally contribute more than the $6,500 limit? I want to make sure I don't mess that up as I continue contributing throughout the year.

0 coins

Prev1...16591660166116621663...5643Next