IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

CyberNinja

•

This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my single-member LLC had losses in 2023 but I'm expecting profits in 2024. One thing that's been confusing me is the interaction between NOL carryforwards and the QBI (Qualified Business Income) deduction. If I use my NOL carryforward to offset business income in 2024, does that reduce my QBI deduction for that year? It seems like the NOL would reduce my taxable business income, which would then reduce the amount eligible for the 20% QBI deduction. Has anyone navigated this combination of NOL carryforward and QBI? I'm trying to figure out if there's an optimal strategy for timing the use of my NOL to maximize both benefits.

0 coins

Ravi Kapoor

•

Great question about the NOL and QBI interaction! You're absolutely right that this creates a potential conflict between maximizing current tax savings and preserving future QBI benefits. When you use NOL carryforward to offset business income, it does reduce the income that's eligible for the QBI deduction. So if you have $50,000 in business income in 2024 and use $20,000 of NOL carryforward, you'd only have $30,000 eligible for the 20% QBI deduction instead of the full $50,000. One strategy some people use is to only utilize enough NOL each year to stay within lower tax brackets, preserving both the remaining NOL for future years and maximizing QBI on the income they do report. Since NOL carryforwards are now indefinite (post-2017), you have flexibility in timing. Have you run the numbers both ways to see which approach gives you better long-term tax savings? The optimal strategy really depends on your expected income trajectory and tax bracket projections for the next few years.

0 coins

StarSeeker

•

This is exactly the kind of complex tax situation where having multiple moving pieces can create unexpected interactions. The NOL/QBI timing question is particularly tricky because you're essentially choosing between immediate tax relief and future deduction optimization. One approach I'd suggest is creating a multi-year projection model. Map out different scenarios: using all available NOL immediately vs. spreading it over several years to preserve QBI benefits. Don't forget to factor in potential changes to your business income, other income sources, and even possible changes to tax law. Also consider that the QBI deduction has income limitations (phases out completely at $364,200 for single filers in 2024), so if you expect your income to grow significantly, it might make sense to maximize QBI in earlier years when you're still under those thresholds. The 80% limitation on NOL usage gives you some natural spreading anyway - you can't use NOL to offset more than 80% of your taxable income in any given year. This might actually work in your favor for preserving some QBI benefit even when using carryforwards. Have you considered consulting with a tax professional who specializes in business taxation? This kind of multi-year strategic planning is where their expertise really pays off.

0 coins

Sophia Russo

•

This is really valuable advice about creating a multi-year projection model! As someone new to dealing with NOLs, I hadn't considered how the 80% limitation might actually help preserve some QBI benefits. One thing I'm wondering about - when you mention the QBI phase-out thresholds, does that apply to the business income before or after NOL adjustments? If my gross business income puts me over the threshold but my net income (after NOL carryforward) brings me back under, which number determines my QBI eligibility? Also, for those who've worked with tax professionals on this kind of strategic planning, roughly how much should I budget for that level of analysis? I want to make sure the cost of the advice doesn't eat up the potential tax savings!

0 coins

Anna Kerber

•

I just went through this whole process of filing 3 years of back taxes. My biggest piece of advice is to gather ALL your documents before starting. Make a checklist: - W-2s from all employers for each year - 1099s (interest, dividends, contractor work, etc) - Mortgage interest statements - Student loan interest - Health insurance forms - Any major life events (buying home, education, etc) Once you have everything organized by year, the software is actually pretty straightforward. I used TaxSlayer for all my back years and while it was a bit pricey (about $40 per year including state), their interface was really easy to use for someone who was overwhelmed like I was.

0 coins

Niko Ramsey

•

Would you recommend doing all the years in the same software? I've heard some people say it's better to use the same company for all your back taxes so there's consistency, but others say to just use whatever is cheapest for each individual year.

0 coins

I used the same software (TaxSlayer) for all three years and I'm glad I did. The consistency was really helpful - once I learned where everything was in their interface for the first year, the other two went much faster. Plus they saved my personal information, so I didn't have to re-enter my address, SSN, etc. for each year. That said, if there's a significant price difference between companies for different years, it might be worth switching to save money. The forms are standardized by the IRS anyway, so the end result should be the same regardless of which software you use. Just make sure whatever you choose has good support for prior year filings and can handle any special situations from those years (like the pandemic credits mentioned earlier).

0 coins

StarSurfer

•

Just wanted to add one more important tip for anyone filing back taxes - make sure you have your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI) from your most recently filed return before you start. Most tax software will ask for this to verify your identity, especially for prior year returns. Since you mentioned you filed 2023 taxes with TurboTax, you'll need that 2023 AGI when you're setting up your 2021 and 2022 returns. If you can't find it, you can get it from your tax transcript on the IRS website, but that adds extra steps to the process. Also, don't stress too much about getting everything perfect on the first try. If you realize you made a mistake after filing, you can always file an amended return (Form 1040X). The most important thing is just getting those returns submitted so you're back in compliance and can start receiving any refunds you're owed. You've got this!

0 coins

Omar Hassan

•

Another excellent practice resource is the **AARP Tax-Aide program materials**. Even though it's designed for seniors, they have some of the best beginner-friendly explanations of tax concepts I've ever seen. You can find their training presentations online, and they break down complex topics like itemizing vs standard deduction in really clear terms. For hands-on practice, I'd also suggest checking out your local library - many have tax prep software available for free use, and librarians are surprisingly knowledgeable about tax resources. Some libraries even offer basic tax workshops in January/February. One thing that really helped me was creating "tax scenarios" for friends and family members (with their permission) - like "what if my sister had moved states mid-year" or "what if my dad had started a side business." Working through hypothetical situations with the practice software helped me understand edge cases I never would have thought of with just my own simple situation. The fact that you're starting this learning process now instead of panicking in March shows incredible maturity. You're going to save yourself so much stress and probably money too by catching deductions you might have missed otherwise!

0 coins

Kaiya Rivera

•

This is such a comprehensive list of resources! I never thought about using AARP materials - that's brilliant since they probably explain things without assuming you already know tax jargon. The library suggestion is gold too. I just checked and my local library actually has a "Tax Help" section on their website with links to free resources and they're offering workshops next month. Definitely signing up! Creating hypothetical scenarios for family members is such a clever practice method. It's like tax word problems but with real-world applications. I'm already thinking about how my situation might change if I pick up freelance work next year or move after graduation. @Natasha Orlova - between all these suggestions, you re'going to be more prepared than 90% of people! I wish I had known about half of these resources when I was starting out. You ve'got this!

0 coins

Jamal Harris

•

Wow, this thread is amazing! Thank you all for such detailed advice. I'm honestly a bit overwhelmed by how many great resources there are - I was expecting maybe one or two app recommendations and instead got a whole education roadmap! I'm definitely going to start with the VITA training materials and IRS Interactive Tax Assistant to build my foundation, then move on to practicing with TurboTax for the educational content. The idea of working through last year's documents (once I get them from my parents) and then trying different scenarios is brilliant. A few follow-up questions if anyone's still reading: - How long should I expect this learning process to take? I want to be realistic about timing. - Should I focus on understanding just the basics first, or try to learn about more advanced stuff like itemizing even if I probably won't need it yet? - Any red flags I should watch out for when practicing to make sure I don't accidentally mess something up? You've all been incredibly helpful - this community is the best! I feel so much more confident about tackling this independence milestone now.

0 coins

Fidel Carson

•

Welcome to the community! Great questions - you're definitely thinking about this the right way. **Timeline-wise**, I'd budget about 2-3 weeks of casual learning (maybe 30-45 minutes every few days) to get comfortable with the basics. Don't try to cram it all - tax concepts build on each other, so giving yourself time to absorb the foundational stuff first really helps. **For scope**, definitely start with basics! Focus on understanding W-2s, standard deduction, and common credits first. Once those click, then explore itemizing if you're curious. The beauty of practicing with software is you can always go back and try the "what if I itemized" scenario later. No need to overwhelm yourself upfront. **Red flags to watch for:** - Never enter your real SSN when practicing (use 123-45-6789 or similar) - Always close browser/app completely when done practicing - Don't save practice returns in the software - If you're using real documents, double-check you're not accidentally in "file now" mode The fact that you're asking these questions shows you'll be fine! Take it step by step and don't hesitate to come back here with more questions as you work through things.

0 coins

Depreciation on a vehicle: Can I claim it with standard mileage deduction for self-employment taxes?

My 2017 Subaru Outback finally kicked the bucket in 2023 at around 225k miles. The repairs would have cost me about $13,000 (transmission completely shot and not rebuildable, serious oil leak from previous work on the transmission, plus several other expensive issues). So I ended up purchasing a 2019 Subaru Forester in May 2024 for approximately $26,500. (I ended up donating the old Outback to a local charity.) I had just closed on selling my rental property the same week my transmission failed, so I had the cash on hand and bought the vehicle outright - no loan or interest. I'm self-employed and have always used the standard mileage deduction instead of actual expenses on my tax filings. My business vs. personal use typically falls around 60-40% or sometimes 50-50%. No commuting miles since I work from home. With my old 2017 Outback, depreciation wasn't really on my radar since I knew I'd drive it into the ground, so I didn't factor it into my taxes. For my 2024 tax filing (which will be the first time including my "new" 2019 Forester), I planned to do the same thing - just take the standard mileage deduction. I briefly looked into claiming depreciation separately, got confused by the rules, and noticed that the mileage deduction already includes depreciation. So I figured I'd stick with mileage deduction. (Especially after reading that using mileage the first year gives you flexibility to switch between mileage or actual expenses later, and since the Forester is in good shape with minimal expenses right now.) But I'm questioning if this is the right approach. For a vehicle that cost $26,500 in 2024, should I be handling depreciation differently? Can you add a new vehicle, use the standard mileage rate, and still claim additional depreciation because it's a new purchase? If I should've done something different, can I still fix it for the 2024 filing? What would the depreciation deduction even look like for a vehicle at this price point? Also, I just found some information suggesting I could deduct the registration fees and sales tax on the 2019 Forester in 2024, even while claiming the standard mileage deduction. Is that accurate? How would I calculate that - just use the percentage based on business miles? Any help would be appreciated!

Grace Lee

•

Has anyone switched from standard mileage to actual expenses after the first year? I'm wondering if it's worth keeping track of everything just in case actual expenses end up being higher in future years.

0 coins

Mia Roberts

•

I did this with my last car. Used standard mileage the first 2 years then switched to actual when repair costs started piling up. You need to keep ALL your receipts and good records of business vs personal use percentage. Also, if you switch to actual, you have to use straight line depreciation for the remaining recovery period and you can't switch back to mileage later for that vehicle.

0 coins

Grace Lee

•

Thanks for sharing your experience! That makes sense about keeping all receipts just in case. I'm guessing the "straight line depreciation for remaining recovery period" is the complicated part. Did you use an accountant to help figure that out or were you able to calculate it yourself?

0 coins

Nia Harris

•

Just to add some clarity on the depreciation calculation if you do switch from mileage to actual expenses - it's actually not too complicated once you understand the concept. When you use standard mileage, the IRS considers that you've already "taken" depreciation at a rate of 27 cents per mile for 2024 (this is built into the 67 cents total rate). So if you drove 10,000 business miles in your first year using standard mileage, you've already "used up" $2,700 of depreciation ($0.27 x 10,000 miles). If you switch to actual expenses in year 2, you'd subtract that $2,700 from your vehicle's basis before calculating remaining depreciation. For your $26,500 Forester with 60% business use, your depreciable basis would be $15,900 (60% of $26,500). If you used standard mileage in 2024 and drove, say, 8,000 business miles, you'd subtract $2,160 in "deemed depreciation" from that $15,900 basis. Then you'd depreciate the remaining amount over the rest of the 5-year recovery period using straight-line method. The math gets a bit involved, but it's definitely doable with a good tax software or spreadsheet once you understand the concept.

0 coins

This is really helpful! I never understood how the IRS handled the transition between methods. So basically they assume you've been depreciating at 27 cents per business mile even when using standard mileage? That makes the math much clearer. Do you know if there's an official IRS publication that explains this calculation, or did you learn this from experience? I'd love to have a reference in case I need to explain it to my accountant.

0 coins

Anna Xian

•

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! Been married for about a year and just discovered that my withholding has been set to single this whole time. Reading through all these responses has been such a relief - I was honestly worried I might face some kind of penalty or audit for the mismatch. The advice about being specific with HR really resonates. I've been getting vague responses when I ask them to "fix my tax withholding," but I'm going to try the direct approach of requesting a new W-4 form by name. Also planning to check our employee self-service portal first - can't believe I didn't think of that! One thing I'm curious about: has anyone here actually calculated how much extra they were paying throughout the year? I'm trying to figure out if I should prioritize getting this fixed ASAP or if it's okay to wait a few more weeks since I know I'll get the money back eventually. Either way, it's comforting to know this is such a common issue and not something to panic about!

0 coins

Dmitry Ivanov

•

@Anna, I can definitely relate to that relief feeling! When I first discovered my withholding mistake, I was convinced I was going to face some kind of audit or penalty too. It's amazing how much anxiety these tax situations can cause when you don't know what to expect. Regarding your question about calculating the extra amount - I actually did the math on mine using one of those online payroll calculators. In my case, I was overpaying by about $200 per month, which added up to around $2,400 over the year. While that's a decent chunk of money to get back as a refund, I decided it was worth fixing ASAP so I could have that extra $200 in my monthly budget going forward. The way I looked at it: even if you wait a few more weeks, you're essentially giving the government an interest-free loan with that extra money. If you can use that $200 (or whatever your amount is) each month for debt payments, savings, or even just day-to-day expenses, it might be worth prioritizing the fix. But you're absolutely right that there's no penalty for waiting - it's really just a matter of cash flow preference!

0 coins

Yara Khoury

•

I'm so glad I found this thread! I've been in almost the identical situation - married for about 4 years but my withholding got set to single when I switched jobs earlier this year. I was absolutely panicking when I realized what happened, thinking the IRS was going to come after me for some kind of fraud or something. Reading everyone's experiences here has been incredibly reassuring. It sounds like this is way more common than I thought, and the consensus seems to be that having too much withheld is definitely the better mistake to make. I'm particularly grateful for all the practical advice about dealing with HR - I've been getting the same "we'll look into it" responses for weeks now. I'm definitely going to try the direct approach of specifically requesting a W-4 form by name, and I'll check our employee portal first to see if I can handle it myself online. The tip about going directly to payroll instead of general HR is genius - that never occurred to me but makes perfect sense. Thanks to everyone who shared their stories and advice. It's such a relief to know I'm not alone in this situation and that it's really not the disaster I thought it was!

0 coins

Prev1...16521653165416551656...5643Next