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Something nobody's mentioned yet - if you do go with the hardship withdrawal, make sure you understand EXACTLY how much to withhold for taxes. I did this last year and only withheld 20%, thinking that would cover it. BIG mistake. I ended up owing a bunch more at tax time because: 1) the withdrawal pushed me into a higher tax bracket, 2) I still had to pay the 10% penalty separately, and 3) I also owed state taxes on the withdrawal. If I could do it over, I'd have withheld at least 35% to cover federal, state, and the penalty. Or better yet, gone with a 401k loan as others have suggested.
Does your 401k provider let you choose how much to withhold? Mine only gave me the option for the standard 20% withholding and said I'd need to deal with the rest at tax time.
Yes, most 401k providers allow you to choose a higher withholding rate than the mandatory 20% federal withholding. My provider (Fidelity) allowed me to specify any percentage I wanted above 20%, but I foolishly stuck with the minimum. If your provider only allows 20%, you can mitigate the tax hit by making estimated quarterly tax payments to the IRS to cover the additional taxes and penalty. That way you won't face a huge bill (and possibly underpayment penalties) when you file your return. I learned this the hard way!
Have you looked into whether your 401k plan allows for loans instead of hardship withdrawals? Many plans let you borrow up to 50% of your balance (max $50,000) for a primary residence purchase. The huge advantage is there's NO tax penalty since it's not a withdrawal - you're borrowing from yourself. You do pay interest, but you're paying it to your own 401k account. Usually you have to repay within 5 years, but some plans extend this to 15-30 years for home purchases. My wife and I did this for our down payment and it worked great. Just be aware that if you leave your job, you'll typically need to repay the full loan quickly or it converts to a distribution with all the penalties.
Do you still get charged that interest if you pay it off early? And does taking a loan affect your ability to make new contributions?
Good question! Most 401k loans allow early repayment without prepayment penalties, so you only pay interest for the time you actually have the loan outstanding. The interest rates are typically pretty reasonable too - usually prime rate plus 1-2%. As for contributions, taking a loan generally doesn't affect your ability to make new contributions to your 401k. However, some plans do have restrictions like limiting you to one outstanding loan at a time or requiring you to wait a certain period before taking another loan. You'll want to check with your specific plan administrator about their rules. One thing to watch out for - while you're repaying the loan, you're missing out on potential investment growth on that borrowed amount, since the money isn't invested in the market. But for a home purchase, the benefits often outweigh this opportunity cost.
I'm still confused about one thing - if I have wash sales throughout the year but close out ALL my positions by December 31st and don't rebuy for 30+ days, do I still get to claim all my net losses for the year?
Yes, that's correct. If you close all positions by year-end and don't repurchase the same or substantially identical securities within 30 days (including into January of the next year), then all your disallowed losses would be recognized in the current tax year. This is a common strategy for active traders - completely exit positions in securities where you've taken losses by year-end and stay out for at least 30 days. This ensures you don't push losses into the next tax year.
As someone who went through this exact same confusion last year, I can tell you that you're likely overthinking it. With $54k in gains and $49k in losses, you're probably looking at paying taxes on roughly your $5k net profit, not the full $54k. The wash sale rule doesn't eliminate your losses - it just defers them by adding them to the cost basis of your replacement shares. Since you're day trading the same stock constantly, those adjusted cost bases are getting realized when you sell those shares throughout the year. The real trap is if you have significant wash sale losses at year-end that carry into January. That's when you could get stuck paying taxes on gains while having your losses deferred to next year. My advice: Track your actual realized gains/losses carefully (not just the gross numbers), and if you're worried, consider using one of the software tools mentioned above to get a clearer picture of your true tax situation. Don't panic - you're probably in better shape than you think!
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through it! I'm curious though - when you say "track your actual realized gains/losses carefully," what's the best way to do that? Are you talking about keeping a separate spreadsheet beyond what the broker provides, or is there a specific method you found worked well for distinguishing between gross trades and the actual tax impact after wash sales?
Don't forget that your capital losses offset capital gains first before you can deduct them against ordinary income. And there's the $3,000 limit on how much you can deduct against ordinary income in a single year. So if you had $6,700 in losses like you mentioned and no gains to offset, you would have deducted $3,000 on your 2024 return and will carry over $3,700 to 2025. Some people miss that capital losses can offset unlimited capital gains, but are limited when offsetting regular income. Might help explain why your carryover number might be different than you expected!
This is super important! And also remember that short-term losses offset short-term gains first, and long-term losses offset long-term gains first. Only after you've netted these within their own categories do you offset remaining gains with remaining losses from the other category. The worksheet can be confusing about this.
Great advice from everyone here! I just wanted to add that if you're still having trouble locating your capital loss carryover amount, you can also check with your local VITA (Volunteer Income Tax Assistance) program. They often help people understand their tax documents for free, especially if your income is under $64,000. Also, for future reference, I'd recommend keeping a simple spreadsheet or note with key tax numbers like capital loss carryovers, estimated tax payments, and other items you'll need for next year's return. I started doing this after spending way too much time hunting through old documents, and it's been a lifesaver. Just jot down the important numbers right after you file while everything is fresh in your mind. One more tip - if you have a tax preparer next year, make sure to bring documentation of your capital loss carryover amount. Some preparers might miss it if you don't specifically mention it, and you don't want to lose out on those deductions you're entitled to!
The VITA program suggestion is excellent! I wish I had known about this earlier. I've been struggling with tax document interpretation for years and didn't realize there were free resources available. Your spreadsheet idea is also brilliant - I'm definitely going to start doing this after I file my 2025 return. It's so frustrating to know that important information exists somewhere in your tax documents but not be able to find it when you need it months later. Having those key numbers written down in one place would save so much time and stress. Do you happen to know if VITA volunteers can help with questions about prior year returns, or do they mainly focus on current year filing assistance?
Has anyone here actually filed their taxes as a Doordash driver? Curious what your effective tax rate ended up being? I'm freaking out thinking I'll lose 25% of my earnings.
After deductions, my effective tax rate was around 12% last year on $28k of Doordash income. The key is tracking EVERY business expense - especially mileage. I drove about 15,000 miles for Doordash which was a massive deduction.
Just wanted to add my experience as someone who's been doing Doordash for over a year now. Your math on the tax rates is roughly correct, but like others mentioned, deductions make a huge difference. One thing I learned the hard way - don't just track mileage for actual deliveries. You can also deduct miles driven BETWEEN deliveries when you're actively looking for orders, driving to hotspots, etc. As long as you're "on duty" in the app, those miles count as business miles. Also, since you're in college, make sure you understand how your Doordash income might affect your financial aid eligibility. Sometimes earning too much can impact your FAFSA for the following year. Might be worth talking to your school's financial aid office about it. The quarterly estimated tax payments are super important too - don't wait until April to pay everything or you'll get hit with penalties. I use the IRS Form 1040ES to calculate mine each quarter.
This is really helpful info about tracking miles between deliveries! I had no idea you could deduct those too. Quick question though - how do you prove to the IRS that you were "actively looking for orders" during those between-delivery miles? Like if you're driving from one area to another hotspot, do you need to screenshot the app or something to show you were available for deliveries? Also, the FAFSA thing is something I hadn't even thought about. Do you know roughly what income threshold starts affecting financial aid? I'm definitely going to talk to my financial aid office but curious if you have any ballpark numbers.
Great question about proving you were actively looking for orders! The key is maintaining good records. I keep a simple log that shows when I start/end my "dash" sessions in the app, and my mileage tracking app (I use Stride) automatically records all miles driven during those active periods. You don't necessarily need screenshots, but it helps to have a consistent pattern. For example, if your log shows you were online from 11am-2pm and drove 45 miles total with only 3 deliveries, it's reasonable that the other miles were spent positioning yourself in hotspots or driving between orders. As for FAFSA, there's no hard threshold - it uses a complex formula based on your Expected Family Contribution (EFC). But generally, if you're making more than around $6,970 as a dependent student, it starts reducing your Pell Grant eligibility. The tricky part with gig work is that it's self-employment income, which can be treated differently than regular wages. Definitely talk to your financial aid office early - they might have strategies to help minimize the impact, like timing when you file your taxes or how you report the income.
Zara Khan
Just be careful about the "triple net lease" exception! If your rental is a triple net lease (tenant pays taxes, insurance, and maintenance), it specifically DOESN'T qualify for QBI under the safe harbor. Found this out the hard way last year.
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Zara Khan
ā¢That's interesting - I didn't know about the tax court cases. My CPA was very black and white about it not qualifying. Do you happen to know which cases addressed this? I'd love to look them up since my lease has some triple net features but I'm still quite involved in other aspects of property management.
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Adrian Hughes
ā¢@Luca Ferrari could you share which tax court cases you re'referring to? I m'in a similar situation with a lease that has some triple net features but I m'still actively managing the property in other ways. My understanding was that any triple net elements would disqualify the entire rental from QBI, but if there are cases suggesting otherwise based on overall activity level, that could be really helpful to know about.
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Javier Torres
This is such great timing for this discussion! I've been managing a small duplex for the past three years and finally understand why my tax preparer kept asking about my "hours spent" on rental activities. I thought it was just for passive activity rules, but now I see it's also crucial for QBI qualification. One thing I'd add for anyone tracking their rental hours - don't forget to include time spent on tenant communications, property advertising/marketing when units are vacant, and research time for repairs or improvements. I was only tracking the physical maintenance time initially, but realized I spend significant hours on emails, phone calls, and researching contractors/suppliers. Also, if you're using property management software or apps like Zillow Rental Manager, those often have built-in time tracking features that can help with contemporaneous record-keeping. Much easier than trying to remember to update a spreadsheet every time you do something rental-related!
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Ellie Kim
ā¢This is really excellent advice about tracking all the different types of rental activities! I was definitely under-counting my hours by only focusing on the physical maintenance stuff. The time spent screening tenants, responding to late-night "emergency" calls that turn out to be non-emergencies, and researching everything from insurance policies to local rental regulations really does add up. Your point about property management software is spot on too. I've been using a simple app to track rent payments and maintenance requests, but I never thought about using the time-stamped communications in there as documentation for my contemporaneous records. That could be really helpful if the IRS ever questions my hour calculations. Do you know if time spent learning about landlord-tenant laws or attending local real estate investment meetups would count toward the 250-hour safe harbor requirement? I spend quite a bit of time educating myself to be a better property manager, but I'm not sure if that qualifies as "rental services" under the regulations.
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