IRS

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If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

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RaΓΊl Mora

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Same situation here! Filed in January, amended in March, and just got the 810 freeze code last week. It's so frustrating not knowing exactly where we stand in the process. I've been checking my transcript obsessively but it's hard to decode all these codes. The waiting is definitely the hardest part - especially when you're expecting a refund and have bills to pay. Hang in there, hopefully we'll both get some movement soon! 🀞

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James Maki

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Totally feel you on the obsessive transcript checking! πŸ˜… I've been refreshing mine like every other day hoping for some change. The uncertainty is killer when you're counting on that refund. At least we're all in this together - misery loves company right? Here's hoping the IRS picks up the pace soon! 🀞

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NeonNomad

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I'm in almost the exact same timeline as you! Filed in January, amended in April, and just saw the 810 freeze code appear on my transcript this week. The not knowing is driving me crazy - like you said, the anxiety about the wait time is real. I've been reading that some people's amended returns get processed faster than the 20-week estimate, but it seems pretty hit or miss. Really hoping we both get some movement on our accounts soon! Keep us posted if you see any changes on your transcript 🀞

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Yara Elias

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OMG yes! It's such a relief to find others with the exact same timeline - I was starting to think I was the only one stuck in this limbo. The 810 freeze code literally just showed up on mine this week too after checking it religiously for months. I keep telling myself that at least it means they're actually working on it now, but the waiting is brutal when you have no idea if it'll be 10 weeks or 20 weeks. Definitely will keep you posted if anything changes - please do the same! We got this πŸ’ͺ

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Ava Rodriguez

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Has anybody tried the IRS Direct File beta this year? I heard they're testing a completely free filing system directly through the IRS, but I'm not sure if it handles education forms like 1098-T. Anybody have experience with it?

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Miguel Diaz

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I tried it! It does handle 1098-T forms and education credits, but there are some limitations. It only works for pretty simple tax situations and only certain states are eligible. I qualified in Arizona and it worked great for me with my 1098-T, but if you have anything complicated it'll tell you that you're not eligible. Worth checking if you qualify though!

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Amina Diop

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Just wanted to add another free option that worked well for me - FreeTaxUSA. I used it through the IRS Free File portal and it handled my 1098-T without any upgrade fees. The interface isn't as polished as TurboTax, but it walked me through the American Opportunity Credit step-by-step and I got my full refund. One tip: make sure you have your 1098-T handy because you'll need to enter the amounts manually, but it's pretty straightforward. They also have good customer support if you get stuck on the education credit calculations. Definitely worth trying if the other options don't work out for you!

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Thanks for mentioning FreeTaxUSA! I was actually looking at that one too but wasn't sure if it was trustworthy. Good to know it worked well for you with the 1098-T. Quick question - did you have to create an account or provide payment info upfront, or is it truly no-strings-attached free? I'm just paranoid after TurboTax immediately wanted my credit card info even for the "free" version.

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Caesar Grant

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Did you check if they applied your refund to any past-due federal debts? They can take your tax refund to offset things like back taxes, child support, student loans, or even some state debts without much notice. Check your transcript for a code 898 which would indicate an offset.

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Rita Jacobs

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I don't think I have any federal debts, but I hadn't considered that possibility. Is that something that would show up on the transcript with that specific code?

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Caesar Grant

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Yes, code 898 specifically indicates a refund offset. There will usually be an explanation with it showing what type of debt it was applied to (student loans, child support, etc.). There should also be a separate notice sent from the agency that received the money, but those sometimes arrive weeks after the IRS notice. If it was offset to pay a federal debt, you'd need to contact whichever agency received the payment (Dept of Education for student loans, Health & Human Services for child support, etc.) rather than the IRS, since the IRS just transfers the money but doesn't manage those debts.

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Evelyn Martinez

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I went through almost the exact same thing last year - got the initial letter saying I had an adjustment coming, then a second letter saying it was reduced to zero. Super frustrating! In my case, what helped was calling the Practitioner Priority Service line (866-860-4259) even though I'm not a tax professional. They sometimes have shorter wait times than the main taxpayer line. When I finally got through, the agent explained that they had initially missed a 1099-K from a side gig I did, and when they caught it during their secondary review, it wiped out the refund I was supposed to get. The key is getting your account transcript like others mentioned, but also ask specifically about any "subsequent adjustments" when you talk to someone. Sometimes there are multiple adjustments happening at once and the notices don't always explain the full picture. Don't give up - you have the right to understand exactly what happened to your money!

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I went through this exact situation about 6 months ago and completely understand the anxiety! Here's what I learned from my experience: First, don't panic - adjustment letters are actually pretty routine. The IRS processes millions of these each year. In my case, they had adjusted my refund because I accidentally claimed the wrong filing status (put single instead of head of household). The most important thing is to read through the letter carefully - there should be a section that explains exactly what they changed and why. Look for terms like "CP12" or "CP11" at the top - these are common adjustment notice codes. The letter should also have a phone number specific to your case and a timeframe for responding if you disagree. My advice: if the math looks right and you can see their reasoning, just accept it. If something seems off or you don't understand the adjustment, definitely call that number on the letter. Yes, you'll be on hold for a while, but it's worth getting clarity directly from them rather than guessing. Also, keep that letter safe - you'll need it for your records and if you ever get audited in the future, it shows the IRS already reviewed and adjusted that return.

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Freya Thomsen

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This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about something you mentioned - you said to look for "CP12" or "CP11" codes at the top of the letter. My adjustment letter has "CP12" but I'm not sure what that specifically means compared to other codes. Does CP12 indicate a particular type of adjustment or is it just a general notice code? Also, when you called the number on your letter, were you able to get through relatively quickly or did you have to try multiple times? I'm trying to decide if I should attempt calling or just accept their adjustment since the amount seems reasonable.

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Joshua Wood

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Great question about the CP codes! CP12 specifically means "Overpayment" - it indicates that the IRS made changes to your return that resulted in you getting a larger refund than originally calculated. CP11, on the other hand, means "Underpayment" where their changes reduced your refund or meant you owe additional tax. Since you have a CP12, that's actually good news - it means their adjustment worked in your favor! The amount should be reasonable since it's additional money coming to you. As for calling, I'll be honest - it took me three attempts over two days to get through. The first two times I got disconnected after being on hold for over an hour. The third time I called right when they opened at 7 AM and got through in about 45 minutes. If the adjustment amount seems reasonable and it's in your favor (which CP12 indicates), you might want to just accept it and save yourself the phone hassle. But if you're curious about the specific details of what they changed, the call can be worth it for peace of mind.

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I've been dealing with IRS adjustment letters for years as a tax preparer, and I want to emphasize something really important that hasn't been mentioned yet - timing is crucial with these letters. Most adjustment letters give you either 30 or 60 days to respond if you disagree with their changes. This deadline is NOT negotiable, so don't let the letter sit around while you're trying to figure out what to do. Even if you're still gathering documentation or trying to reach them by phone, you should send a written response by the deadline stating that you're disputing the adjustment and working on providing supporting documents. Also, a practical tip: when you do call the IRS, have your Social Security number, the tax year in question, and the exact notice number from your letter ready before you even dial. The automated system will ask for all of this information before connecting you to an agent, and having it ready speeds up the process significantly. One more thing - if you end up owing money due to the adjustment, you can usually set up a payment plan even for smaller amounts. Don't stress too much about having to pay everything at once if that's the case.

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This is exactly the kind of practical advice I needed to hear! I just received my adjustment letter yesterday and was planning to "think about it" for a while, but you're absolutely right about the timing being crucial. My letter shows a 60-day response period, so I need to mark that deadline on my calendar right away. The tip about having all the information ready before calling is gold - I can already imagine how frustrating it would be to wait on hold for an hour only to get disconnected because I don't have the right numbers handy. Quick question though: when you mention sending a written response by the deadline, is there a specific format or address I should use, or do I just write to the address shown on the letter? I want to make sure I don't accidentally invalidate my dispute by using the wrong procedure.

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Pedro Sawyer

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FYI - Make sure you're aware of the pro-rata rule if you have existing Traditional IRA balances!! This seems to be missed often. If you have any pre-tax money in ANY traditional IRA (including SEP or SIMPLE IRAs), you can't just convert your new non-deductible contribution tax-free. It gets prorated across all your IRA balances.

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Mae Bennett

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Can you roll existing traditional IRA money into a 401k to avoid the pro-rata rule? My friend mentioned this but I'm not sure if it actually works.

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Javier Torres

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Yes, that's called a "reverse rollover" and it absolutely works! If your 401k plan accepts incoming rollovers (most do), you can move your existing pre-tax traditional IRA money into your 401k. This clears out your traditional IRA balance, making future backdoor Roth conversions 100% tax-free since you'll only have after-tax contributions left. Just make sure to complete the rollover before December 31st of the year you plan to do the conversion, since the pro-rata calculation looks at your IRA balances as of year-end.

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QuantumQuasar

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Just to add some clarity from my experience - I was in a similar situation last year and successfully completed a 2024 backdoor Roth in early 2025. The key is understanding that you have two separate deadlines: 1) You can make your 2024 non-deductible traditional IRA contribution until April 15, 2025, and 2) The conversion can happen anytime after that (it will just be reported on your 2025 taxes). The Vanguard rep was mixing up the deadlines. While it's true that many people prefer to keep both steps in the same calendar year for simpler record-keeping, it's absolutely not required. You're still well within the window to make your 2024 contribution and then convert it. Just make sure to properly document everything on Form 8606 for both tax years. One tip: If you do have existing pre-tax IRA money, consider the reverse rollover strategy mentioned by others to avoid pro-rata complications. And yes, plan for that 7-day Vanguard holding period if you're using them!

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Diego Chavez

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This is really helpful! As someone new to backdoor Roths, I was getting confused by all the different deadlines mentioned. So just to confirm my understanding: I could make a 2024 non-deductible contribution right now in January 2025, then convert it next month, and that would still count as a 2024 contribution (reported on my 2024 taxes) but a 2025 conversion (reported on my 2025 taxes)? And this is totally legitimate even though they're in different tax years?

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