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Quick question - has anyone had success calling their state tax department about duplicate W-2s? My employer made mistakes on my state withholding and I'm wondering if I should talk to the state first before the IRS?

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Yes! The state tax department was actually much more helpful for me. I had a similar issue last year with Pennsylvania taxes. Called their department of revenue and got through in about 10 minutes. They explained that employers often issue separate W-2s for different states and told me exactly how to report it on my state returns.

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NebulaNomad

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I went through something very similar last year when my employer's payroll system got updated mid-year. What you're describing sounds like a classic state allocation error - your employer probably reported your wages to the wrong state initially (Alabama) and then issued the second W-2 to correct the state reporting to Georgia. The key thing to understand is that you should NOT file with both W-2s. Contact your payroll department immediately and ask them to issue a single corrected W-2 that shows your full federal wages in Box 1 and the correct Georgia state information. Most payroll departments are familiar with this issue and can turn around a corrected form pretty quickly. In the meantime, definitely don't try to force the incomplete W-2 into TurboTax - the IRS computers will flag the mismatch between what your employer reported and what you filed. Better to wait a week or two for the proper correction than deal with IRS notices later.

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Caden Nguyen

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Does anyone know if I need to keep track of these non-dividend distributions myself or if my brokerage will do that for me? I got some from my MLP investments last year and I'm not sure if my cost basis is being adjusted automatically in my account.

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Avery Flores

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In my experience, many brokerages don't properly track cost basis adjustments for non-dividend distributions, especially for MLPs and certain REITs. You'll probably need to keep track yourself. Check your 1099-DIV form from last year - Box 3 shows non-dividend distributions. You should manually record these and adjust your cost basis accordingly.

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Mason Kaczka

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You're absolutely right to be thinking about this carefully! While it's true that non-dividend distributions lower your cost basis and potentially increase your taxable gain when you sell, there are some important timing benefits to consider. The key advantage is that you're getting cash now without any immediate tax consequences, while only paying taxes later when you sell. This tax deferral can be valuable because: 1. You have use of that money immediately (time value of money) 2. Your future tax rate might be lower than today's rate 3. You can control the timing of when you realize the gain by choosing when to sell Also, some non-dividend distributions might represent genuine returns of excess capital that the company doesn't need for operations, rather than just accounting maneuvers. In those cases, you're getting back money that might otherwise just sit on the company's balance sheet earning minimal returns. That said, you're right to be cautious - make sure you're tracking these basis adjustments properly since they'll affect your taxes when you eventually sell!

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This is really helpful! I'm new to investing and wasn't even aware that I needed to track basis adjustments myself. When you mention controlling the timing of when you realize the gain - does that mean I could potentially hold the stock longer to qualify for long-term capital gains treatment? That could make the eventual higher taxable gain more palatable if it's taxed at the lower long-term rate instead of ordinary income rates. Also, how do most people keep track of these adjustments over time? Is there a simple way to organize this information, especially if you're receiving multiple non-dividend distributions from the same investment over several years?

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Lourdes Fox

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Has anyone used an online promissory note or do you need to get a lawyer involved? I'm in a similar situation with my daughter but trying to keep costs minimal as we're only talking about a $200k loan.

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I used an online template for a family loan of $150k and had significant problems. The template didn't include state-specific requirements, and when my son later applied for a business loan, their bank wouldn't recognize our loan documentation. We ended up having to redo everything with an attorney anyway, which cost more in the long run.

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One thing I'd add to consider is the impact on your son's debt-to-income ratio for future lending. When we did a similar loan with our daughter, we discovered that some lenders treat family loans differently than traditional mortgages when calculating DTI for subsequent loans or refinancing. Also, regarding the "hassle" factor you mentioned - while there is paperwork involved, the annual savings of $25-30k you mentioned would more than justify the setup costs. Even if he refinances in 2-3 years when rates drop, you'd still save significant money during that period. Just make sure to discuss what happens if rates do drop significantly and he wants to refinance early. Will there be prepayment penalties? Having those terms clear upfront prevents awkward conversations later.

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That's a really good point about the DTI impact that I hadn't thought of. As someone new to this whole family lending thing, I'm wondering - would it help if the loan document specifically states it's subordinate to any future mortgage refinancing? Or does that create other complications? Also, regarding prepayment penalties, wouldn't having a penalty actually hurt the parent since they'd want maximum flexibility if their own financial situation changes? I'm trying to understand the balance between protecting both parties while keeping things simple.

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CyberNinja

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17 Has anyone calculated if it might just be better to pay the capital gains now instead of going through all this hassle? Long-term capital gains rates are historically pretty low (15% for most people), and property management is becoming such a headache with rising insurance costs and maintenance.

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CyberNinja

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16 Depends entirely on your situation. For my eminent domain case, the gain was about $430,000. Even at 15%, that's $64,500 in taxes I deferred. Plus, I was able to leverage the 1033 proceeds to buy a much better income property. The paperwork was a pain, but saving $64K made it worthwhile for me.

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Khalid Howes

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Don't forget to consider state tax implications too! While you're focused on federal capital gains deferral through the 1033 exchange, some states don't recognize the federal deferral and will tax you immediately on the gain. I found this out the hard way when California hit me with state capital gains taxes even though I properly deferred the federal taxes through my involuntary conversion. Make sure to check with a tax professional familiar with your state's rules - it could significantly impact whether the 1033 exchange makes financial sense in your situation.

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That's a really important point about state taxes that I hadn't considered! I'm in Texas so no state income tax, but I can see how that would completely change the math for someone in California or New York. Did you end up having to pay the full California rate on the entire gain, or were there any partial deferrals available at the state level? This might be something worth factoring into my decision about whether to even pursue the 1033 exchange.

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm actually in a very similar situation - my spouse and I are planning to purchase two EVs this year and file jointly. Reading through everyone's experiences has cleared up a lot of my confusion. One additional consideration I wanted to mention is the point-of-sale rebate option that started in 2024. Instead of waiting until tax time to claim the credit, you can now transfer it directly to the dealer for an immediate discount at purchase. This might be especially useful if you're buying two vehicles and want to reduce the upfront cost. However, I've heard that if you use the point-of-sale option and later discover you weren't actually eligible (due to income limits or vehicle eligibility changes), you'd have to pay the IRS back. So there's a bit of a trade-off between getting the money upfront versus waiting to claim it on your return when you're more certain about your final tax situation. For those of you who successfully claimed credits for two vehicles, did any of you use the point-of-sale option, or did you all wait until filing your returns? I'm trying to decide which approach makes more sense for our situation. Also, @416a9f18d66b (Aria), definitely recommend getting that written confirmation from dealers that others mentioned. The eligibility rules really do change frequently, and having documentation could save you headaches later!

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@92a0f5ebd644 Great point about the point-of-sale option! I'm actually new to this community but have been lurking and learning so much from everyone's experiences. As someone who's just starting to research EV purchases for my family, the point-of-sale rebate sounds appealing for cash flow reasons, but you're absolutely right about the risk. If our income ends up being higher than expected or if vehicle eligibility changes after purchase, having to pay back $15,000 (for two vehicles) to the IRS sounds like a nightmare. I'm leaning toward the traditional route of claiming the credits at tax time, especially since we won't know our final MAGI until the end of the year. Plus, it seems like from this thread that the traditional method is pretty straightforward with tax software. Has anyone here had experience with dealers pushing the point-of-sale option? I'm wondering if some dealers prefer it because they get paid immediately rather than waiting for customers to get their tax refunds and potentially spend that money elsewhere. Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing your experiences - this has been incredibly educational for a newcomer like me!

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Welcome to the community! As someone who just went through this exact situation with my partner last year, I can confirm that married couples filing jointly can absolutely claim EV tax credits for two vehicles purchased in the same year. We bought a Hyundai Ioniq 5 and a Volkswagen ID.4 and successfully claimed both credits on our joint return. A few key takeaways from our experience: **Vehicle titling is flexible** - We had one car in my name and one in both our names. The IRS doesn't care about the title arrangement as long as you're the original purchaser and it's for personal use. **Documentation is crucial** - Keep everything organized: purchase agreements, VINs, delivery dates, and any dealer communications about eligibility. We actually created a dedicated folder for all EV-related tax documents. **Income timing matters** - Since you mentioned planning purchases "within the next few months," consider your annual income flow. If you're close to the $300k MAGI limit for joint filers, the timing of bonuses, stock options, or other income could affect your eligibility. **Vehicle-specific eligibility changes** - Both the Model Y and Mach-E have had varying eligibility depending on manufacturing dates and trim levels. I'd strongly recommend verifying current eligibility status right before purchase, not just during your initial research. The filing process itself was straightforward - just two Form 8936s that our tax software handled easily. Best financial decision we made last year! Feel free to ask if you have any other questions about the process.

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This is such a helpful breakdown, @17f95d4ab17e! I'm new to this community and currently researching EV purchases with my spouse. Your point about creating a dedicated folder for EV tax documents is brilliant - I wouldn't have thought of that but it makes so much sense given how complex the eligibility requirements seem to be. I'm curious about your experience with the Hyundai Ioniq 5 and VW ID.4 specifically. Did both vehicles qualify for the full $7,500 credit, or were there differences in the amounts based on the battery sourcing requirements? I've been reading that some vehicles only qualify for partial credits now due to the new manufacturing and battery component rules. Also, when you say "vehicle-specific eligibility changes," how frequently are we talking? Should I be checking eligibility weekly, monthly, or just right before I'm ready to sign paperwork? I want to make sure I'm not caught off guard by any last-minute changes. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who successfully navigated this process!

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