


Ask the community...
Anyone know if it matters which tax filing status to pick with a partner who isnt a spouse? Like should OP file as Head of Household since they're supporting the partner and baby, or just Single? Seems like it would make a big difference for tax brackets.
Head of Household is definitely the way to go if possible. You need a qualifying person though - the baby counts for sure, but not necessarily the partner. To file HOH, you need to: 1) Be unmarried at end of year, 2) Paid more than half the cost of keeping up a home, and 3) Have a qualifying person live with you for more than half the year. Your child is automatically a qualifying person. Partner might not qualify unless they're your dependent under certain circumstances. But with the baby, you should be able to file HOH regardless of whether you can claim partner as dependent.
Great question about filing status! You'll definitely want to file as Head of Household rather than Single since you have a qualifying child (your baby). Head of Household has better tax brackets and a higher standard deduction than Single status. The requirements are pretty straightforward in your case: you're unmarried, you're paying more than half the household expenses, and your baby lived with you for more than half the year (even if born late in the year, newborns count). Your partner's dependency status doesn't affect your ability to file HOH - having the baby as a qualifying person is enough. The tax savings from HOH vs Single filing status can be substantial, especially combined with the Child Tax Credit. Just make sure when you're using TurboTax that you select Head of Household and not Single - it'll walk you through confirming you meet the requirements but sounds like you clearly do!
Just an additional tip about Form 2441 - make absolutely sure you have the correct Tax ID number for your provider. I made a typo on mine last year and got a notice from the IRS months later questioning my childcare credit. Had to submit additional documentation to prove the expenses were legitimate. For anyone using multiple providers or having a nanny, remember each provider needs their own line on Part I, with their individual Tax ID (SSN for individuals or EIN for businesses). And keep records of payments - bank statements, canceled checks, or receipts! The IRS loves to verify these credits.
Do providers ever refuse to give their tax ID? My kids' summer camp was weird about it last year and just said "we don't provide that information" when I asked. Can I still claim those expenses somehow?
Unfortunately, if a care provider refuses to provide their tax ID, you technically can't claim those expenses on Form 2441. The IRS requires the provider's name, address, and tax identification number for all qualifying expenses over $25. However, you should definitely push back on this! Any legitimate childcare provider should be willing to provide their tax ID - it's a standard request and they're required to report their income anyway. You might try explaining that it's needed for your taxes and that you're not reporting them to anyone, just fulfilling IRS requirements. If they absolutely refuse, you could try contacting them in writing to create a paper trail showing you made a good faith effort to obtain the information. Keep records of your attempts - sometimes the IRS will accept the expenses if you can demonstrate the provider unreasonably refused to provide required information.
Great thread! I went through the exact same confusion with Form 2441 last year. One thing that really helped me was understanding the income phase-out for the credit percentage. At your $115,000 income level, you'll get 20% of your qualifying expenses as mentioned, but it's worth knowing that if your income was under $15,000 you'd get the full 35% rate. Also, don't forget that both you and your wife need to have earned income for the year to qualify for the credit (or one spouse can be a full-time student). Since you mentioned you both work full-time, you're good there. The $6,000 limit for two kids can be frustrating when you're paying so much more, but remember that the FSA option (if your employers offer it) can help stretch your tax savings. You can contribute up to $5,000 pre-tax to a Dependent Care FSA AND still get the credit on remaining qualifying expenses up to the $6,000 limit. Just make sure to coordinate them properly on Part III like others mentioned!
This is really helpful information about the income phase-out! I had no idea the credit percentage changed based on income level. At $115,000 we're getting 20%, but it's good to know how the system works. One question about coordinating the FSA with Form 2441 - if we max out our FSA at $5,000 next year, would it make sense to try to keep our total qualifying expenses closer to $6,000 to get the most benefit from the credit? Or should we not worry about that and just claim whatever we actually paid regardless?
Thanks for posting this question! I'm also a Frost customer and have been wondering about this exact scenario. Reading through everyone's responses has been incredibly helpful - especially Connor's tracking data showing Frost's 82.4% on-time rate and never releasing early. I had a similar DDD situation last year with a different bank and made the mistake of obsessively checking starting two days early. It sounds like with Frost, that energy is better spent just waiting until the actual date. The consistency everyone's reporting is actually pretty reassuring - at least you know what to expect even if it's not the early surprise deposit we're all hoping for! One follow-up question for the experienced Frost customers here: do you typically get any kind of pending transaction notification before the deposit actually posts, or does it just appear in your available balance without warning? Just trying to set my own expectations for when my refund comes through.
Hey Lauren! Great question about pending notifications. From my experience with Frost, the deposit typically just appears in your available balance without any pending status - it goes from $0 to the full amount overnight. I don't recall ever seeing it show as "pending" first, unlike some other transaction types. This actually makes the early morning check even more definitive - if it's not there when you wake up on your DDD, it's probably not coming that day. But like everyone else has mentioned, Frost is pretty reliable about hitting that 2-6 AM window on the exact date. I'm also fairly new to tracking all this refund timing stuff, but the wealth of knowledge in this community has been amazing. It's so helpful to have real data points from people's actual experiences rather than just guessing! Thanks to everyone who's shared their Frost banking patterns over the years.
Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences with Frost Bank! As someone who's been banking with them for about 3 years, I can confirm what others have said about their consistency with DDD timing. I've never gotten my refund early, but I've also never had it be late when the transcript showed a firm date. One thing I've learned from this community is to not stress about the early deposit chase - Frost may not give you that 1-2 day head start that some online banks do, but their reliability is actually pretty valuable. Last year my transcript showed 02/19 as my DDD and sure enough, it was in my account at 4:23 AM on the 19th. For what it's worth, I stopped checking my account obsessively after reading similar posts here last year. Now I just set a phone reminder for the morning of my DDD and check once. Much better for my sanity! Your 02/26 date should be solid based on everyone's tracking data here.
That's such a smart approach - setting a phone reminder instead of constantly checking! I'm definitely going to adopt that strategy. The stress of refreshing my banking app multiple times a day really isn't worth it when all the data points here show Frost is so consistent with their timing. Your 4:23 AM deposit time fits perfectly with what Connor tracked in his data (2-6 AM window). It's really reassuring to see how reliable Frost has been across different people's experiences. I think I was getting caught up in all the "early deposit" excitement from other forums, but honestly, knowing exactly when to expect it is probably better than the uncertainty. Thanks for the practical advice about managing the waiting anxiety - this community really does have the best real-world insights!
Yes, there are still some forms that require original signatures! Form 2848 (Power of Attorney) and Form 8821 (Tax Information Authorization) typically still need original signatures, not scanned copies. Also, certain international forms and some estate/trust documents may have stricter signature requirements. For most business returns like 1120S, 1065, and 1120, scanned signatures are fine. But it's always worth double-checking the specific form instructions because the IRS does make exceptions for certain specialized forms where they want to ensure authenticity. The general rule is: if it's a standard business return being filed electronically or on paper, scanned signatures are acceptable. If it's a power of attorney, authorization form, or involves international tax matters, you might need originals.
This is super helpful to know! I'm relatively new to tax prep and had no idea there were still forms requiring original signatures. Do you happen to know if there's a comprehensive list somewhere of which forms still require originals vs. accepting scanned copies? It would be great to have a reference document to avoid any mistakes with different client situations.
@Alexander Zeus I don t'think there s'one comprehensive IRS list, but I ve'found that the instructions for each form usually specify signature requirements. For forms that require originals, it s'typically stated clearly in the instructions. A good rule of thumb I follow: authorization forms like (2848, 8821 ,)certain international forms like (3520, 5471 ,)and some estate/trust forms usually need originals. Most business income tax returns 1120, (1120S, 1065, 941, etc. accept) scanned signatures. When in doubt, I always check the current year s'form instructions or call the practitioner hotline. It s'worth creating your own reference list as you encounter different forms - that s'what I ve'been doing and it s'saved me a lot of research time!
I've been dealing with this exact scenario more frequently since the pandemic, and I can confirm that scanned signatures are absolutely fine for 1120S returns. The IRS updated their policies significantly and these changes have stuck around. One thing I'd add though - since your client is already filing late, make sure you've prepared and included Form 7004 if they didn't already file for an extension. Even though it's past the deadline, filing it with the return can sometimes help minimize penalties (though it won't eliminate them entirely since it's late). Also, double-check that all required signatures are captured in the scan - sometimes the signature fields at the bottom of pages get cut off when people scan hastily. I learned this the hard way when a return got rejected for an incomplete signature page! Your stress about this situation is totally understandable, but you're good to go with the scanned signatures. File it and be done with this difficult client!
This is really helpful advice about Form 7004! I'm still learning all the ins and outs of late filing procedures. Quick question - if the client didn't file Form 7004 originally and we're including it now with the late 1120S return, do we need to do anything special on the form itself to indicate it's being filed simultaneously with the return? Or do we just attach it normally and let the IRS processing handle it from there? Also, your point about signature fields getting cut off is so important - I've definitely seen scanned documents where the bottom margins were cropped. Thanks for sharing that experience!
Oliver Fischer
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my son's Coverdell ESA from Fidelity - also got a 1099-Q with blank boxes 2 and 3. One thing I want to add for anyone going through this: when you're gathering all your statements, make sure to include any year-end summaries or annual statements your provider sent you. These often have helpful breakdowns of contributions vs. earnings that can serve as checkpoints for your calculations. Also, if you've ever rolled over funds from another Coverdell ESA (like when changing beneficiaries or custodians), make sure you have documentation of the basis that transferred with those funds. That basis carries over and needs to be included in your total. The IRS Form 8863 instructions actually have a worksheet for calculating the taxable portion of education savings account distributions that might be helpful as a template for organizing your calculations. It's designed for different accounts but the methodology is similar. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - it's reassuring to know the IRS will accept our good-faith calculations when the custodian leaves us hanging!
0 coins
Zoe Dimitriou
β’This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I needed! The point about year-end summaries is particularly helpful - I completely forgot that T-Rowe Price used to send those annual breakdowns before they switched systems a few years ago. I should definitely dig through my old files for those. The rollover documentation point is crucial too. I actually did transfer some funds from my older child's unused Coverdell to this account when they aged out, and I'll need to make sure I account for that basis properly. Thanks for mentioning Form 8863 - even if it's not exactly the right form, having an IRS template for the calculation methodology will definitely give me more confidence that I'm approaching this the right way. It's so stressful when you're essentially recreating records that should have been provided, but knowing others have successfully navigated this same situation is really reassuring.
0 coins
Ayla Kumar
I'm dealing with this exact same issue right now with my daughter's Coverdell ESA from Vanguard! Got the dreaded 1099-Q with boxes 2 and 3 completely blank, and like you, I know I'll have some non-qualified distributions this year. What's been driving me crazy is that I've been contributing to this account for over 6 years, and now I have to become a forensic accountant just to figure out my own tax liability. I called Vanguard and got the same runaround - "we don't track basis information" but they can send me statements going back to when the account opened. One thing I learned from my CPA is that you should also look for any dividend reinvestments or capital gains distributions that happened within the account over the years. These count as earnings, not basis, even though they weren't cash you deposited. They should show up on your statements but can be easy to miss when you're trying to separate contributions from growth. The silver lining is that once you go through this exercise once and create a good tracking system, you'll never have to deal with this nightmare again. I'm definitely setting up a spreadsheet to track everything going forward so my future self doesn't have to go through this stress!
0 coins