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Something nobody mentioned yet - have you considered asking your dad to file an amended return if he didn't claim these deductions in previous years? There's a 3-year window to file amended returns, so if he didn't take the deduction in recent years when you were making payments, he could potentially get some money back.
As a teacher myself dealing with similar loan situations, I wanted to add something important that might help with your long-term planning. While you're right to keep the Parent Plus loans in your dad's name to preserve forgiveness options, make sure you're also maximizing your own federal loan benefits. Since your income-based payments are currently $0, you're still getting credit toward Public Service Loan Forgiveness (PSLF) if you're working for a qualifying employer. Those $0 payments count as qualifying payments! Make sure you're submitting your annual employment certification forms to track your progress. Also, depending on your teaching situation, you might qualify for Teacher Loan Forgiveness after 5 years of service, which could forgive up to $17,500 of your federal loans. This is separate from PSLF and could be worth pursuing even if your current payments are $0. Just wanted to make sure you're aware of all your options since the Parent Plus situation is already locked in terms of tax benefits!
This is such valuable information, especially about the $0 payments counting toward PSLF! I had no idea that was the case. Can you clarify something - if I'm currently on an income-based plan with $0 payments, do I need to be making payments on the Parent Plus loans to maintain my teaching employment eligibility? Or are those completely separate since they're in my dad's name anyway? Also, do you know if there are any income thresholds where my own loan payments might jump above $0 and affect my PSLF timeline? I'm trying to plan ahead financially.
Has anyone had experience with how long it actually takes for the IRS to process Form 8822? The instructions say 4-6 weeks, but when I did this last year it seemed to take forever and I still had mail going to my old address months later.
I went through this exact same situation when I moved from Texas to California last year. The key thing to remember is that the "most recent location" they're referring to in the instructions just means where you currently live now, not where you previously filed. Since you're now in Arizona, you'll use the Arizona mailing address for Form 8822. Like Molly mentioned, it goes to Kansas City, MO 64999-0023. The IRS has regionalized processing centers, so all Arizona residents send their address change forms to the same place regardless of where they previously lived or filed. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure you also update your address with any estimated tax payments if you make them quarterly. The IRS doesn't always connect these systems immediately, so you might get notices sent to your old address even after Form 8822 is processed. Also, since you mentioned e-filing for years, don't forget to update your address in whatever tax software you use for next year's filing. It'll save you from having to remember to manually enter your new address when tax season comes around.
This is really helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation - just moved from Florida to Nevada and was confused about the whole "most recent location" language too. So just to confirm, I would use Nevada's mailing address for Form 8822 even though I filed my last few tax returns while living in Florida? Also, thanks for the tip about updating the tax software address. I use TurboTax and totally would have forgotten to change that setting before next filing season.
@690466b7a0bc Exactly right! You would use Nevada's mailing address for Form 8822, not Florida's. The form goes based on where you currently live, not where you previously filed. For Nevada residents, you'll send Form 8822 to the Ogden, UT processing center. And yes, definitely update TurboTax (or whatever software you use) with your new address in your profile settings. I forgot to do this one year and it automatically populated my old address on the return, which caused confusion when the IRS had conflicting address information in their system. One more tip - if you're doing estimated quarterly payments, make sure to send those to Nevada's address too going forward. The estimated payment vouchers and annual returns don't always use the same processing centers, so it's worth double-checking that in the instructions.
Dylan, I feel for you on this situation - it's a common misconception that many folks have about IRA rollovers. Just wanted to add a couple of points that might help minimize the damage: 1. Make sure you designate your LARGEST withdrawal as the one qualifying for the 60-day rollover treatment. This will minimize the taxable income from the distributions that don't qualify. 2. If you're still within the 60-day window for any of the distributions, complete that rollover ASAP. The clock started ticking from the date you received each distribution. 3. Consider whether you might qualify for any penalty exceptions on the taxable distributions. While the first-time homebuyer exception won't work for you, there might be other hardship exceptions depending on your specific circumstances. 4. When you file your taxes, you'll want to work with a tax professional who can help you properly report this on Form 8606 (for any after-tax basis you might have) and Form 5329 (to calculate any penalties and claim exceptions). The silver lining is that this is primarily a tax issue, not a permanent financial disaster. You'll owe taxes and potentially penalties, but you still have your house and the withdrawn funds served their purpose. Expensive lesson, but you're not alone in making this mistake!
This is really solid advice, especially about designating the largest withdrawal for the 60-day rollover treatment. That's a smart way to minimize the tax impact when you're stuck in this situation. One additional thought - since Dylan mentioned they're selling their current home, depending on the timeline and profit from that sale, they might want to consider the timing of when they complete the rollover and report the income. If the home sale will push them into a higher tax bracket this year, it might be worth discussing with a tax pro whether there are any timing strategies that could help spread out the tax burden. Also, Dylan, make sure you keep detailed records of all the transactions, dates, and communications with your IRA custodians. You'll need this documentation for tax filing and in case the IRS has any questions down the road.
Dylan, this is such a frustrating situation but you're definitely not alone in making this mistake. The IRS rollover rules are genuinely confusing, and even some financial professionals don't fully understand them. One thing I wanted to add that might be helpful - since you mentioned you're preparing to sell your current home, be mindful of how the timing of these distributions and your home sale might interact tax-wise. If you're going to have a significant capital gain from the home sale, you could end up in a higher tax bracket for the year, which would make the tax hit from these distributions even more painful. Also, I'd strongly recommend getting all the documentation together now - dates of each distribution, amounts, which IRA custodians they came from, etc. You'll need this for Form 8606 and Form 5329 when you file your taxes. The IRS can be pretty particular about the paperwork on retirement account distributions. The good news is that while this is an expensive lesson, you're not the first person to learn it the hard way. At least you caught the issue before making any additional moves that could have made things worse. Sometimes the best financial education comes from our mistakes, unfortunately!
Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences and advice on this thread! As someone new to navigating IRA rules, this has been incredibly educational. The one-rollover-per-12-months rule is definitely something I wish was more widely known - it seems like such an easy trap to fall into when you have multiple retirement accounts. Dylan, I'm sorry you're dealing with this situation, but thank you for sharing it. It's definitely going to help me (and probably others) avoid making the same mistake. The advice about designating your largest withdrawal for the 60-day rollover treatment is really smart thinking. One question for the group - are there any good resources or publications where someone could learn about these kinds of retirement account rules proactively? I'd rather educate myself now than learn through expensive mistakes later!
Thanks for all the helpful responses everyone! I really appreciate the clarification on how SEP IRA catch-up contributions work. Based on what I'm reading here, it sounds like I can make my regular SEP contribution (the 25% of net self-employment income) plus add a $1,000 catch-up contribution as a traditional IRA contribution to the same account. I'm definitely going to look into the solo 401k option for 2024 that Harmony mentioned - the higher catch-up limit of $7,500 sounds much better than the $1,000 IRA limit. And good point about double-checking the tax software calculations, Rudy. I'll make sure my software isn't trying to add catch-up directly to the SEP calculation. One follow-up question though - when I make that $1,000 catch-up contribution as a traditional IRA contribution, do I need to do anything special to designate it as such, or does the account custodian handle that automatically?
Great question about designating the catch-up contribution! You'll typically need to specify this when you make the contribution through your account custodian (like Fidelity, Schwab, etc.). Most custodians have separate options when you initiate the contribution - one for "SEP-IRA employer contribution" and another for "Traditional IRA contribution." When you make that $1,000 catch-up, you'd select the traditional IRA option and many systems will even ask if it's a catch-up contribution specifically. Your custodian should provide you with the proper tax forms (like Form 5498) that will show both contribution types separately for tax reporting purposes. If you're unsure, definitely call your custodian before making the contribution to confirm their process - each one handles it slightly differently in their systems.
This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar situation - turned 52 last year and have been contributing to a SEP IRA for my freelance work. I had no idea about the traditional IRA catch-up workaround that Melissa mentioned. One thing I want to add for anyone reading this - make sure you understand the income limits for traditional IRA deductibility if you also have a day job with a 401k. I learned the hard way that having workplace retirement plan coverage can phase out your ability to deduct traditional IRA contributions depending on your income level. The SEP contribution isn't affected by this, but that $1,000 catch-up might not be deductible if your total income is too high and you're covered by another plan. Also, definitely agree with everyone saying to double-check your tax software calculations. I caught mine trying to add the catch-up directly to my SEP calculation too. Had to manually separate them on the forms.
That's a really important point about the income limits, Logan! I didn't realize that having a workplace 401k could affect the deductibility of that traditional IRA catch-up contribution. Do you know what the income thresholds are for 2024? I have a part-time W-2 job with a simple 401k in addition to my freelance work, so this could definitely apply to me. Also, when you say you had to manually separate them on the forms, are you talking about separating them on your tax return, or when making the actual contributions to your account? I want to make sure I handle this correctly from the start.
Aaliyah Jackson
Has anyone used QuickBooks Self-Employed for tracking both methods simultaneously? I heard there's a way to set it up to compare them at tax time.
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KylieRose
β’Yes! Go to the Mileage section and turn on "Track actual car expenses" in the settings. It will track both and show you a comparison. The catch is that it doesn't fully account for the "locked in" rule we're discussing here - it just shows you what would be better this year.
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Liam O'Connor
As someone who's been through this exact scenario with my photography business, I completely understand your frustration! The "locked in" rule for actual expenses is one of those tax traps that catches a lot of small business owners off guard. Given your high mileage (15,782 business miles), the standard mileage deduction would give you about $10,337 this year alone (at 65.5 cents per mile). With actual expenses, you're probably looking at significantly less unless you have unusually high vehicle costs. Here's my take: if you're planning to keep this car for several more years and maintain similar mileage patterns, paying the $2,750 now is likely worth it. You'll probably recoup that cost within the first year of using standard mileage, and then continue saving thousands annually. Before making the final decision, I'd recommend calculating your total actual expenses for this year (including depreciation, gas, insurance, repairs, registration, etc.) and comparing that to what standard mileage would give you. If the gap is as wide as I suspect, the math strongly favors taking the hit now. Also consider consulting with a tax professional who specializes in small business returns - they can run the numbers for your specific situation and help you avoid any pitfalls with the amendment process.
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