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Has anyone tried applying for an advance from multiple tax prep companies? I got denied by H&R Block but wondering if I should try Jackson Hewitt or Liberty before just giving up on getting an advance this year.
I tried both TurboTax and Jackson Hewitt - denied by TurboTax first, then got offered $350 from Jackson Hewitt (on a $3800 refund). Not great but better than nothing. I think different companies use different banks so it might be worth trying.
Thanks for sharing your experience! I might try Jackson Hewitt then. $350 isn't much compared to a full refund but it would at least help with a car repair I've been putting off. Did you have to start your whole tax return over with them or was there a way to transfer information?
Just want to point out that tax refund advances are basically payday loans with slightly better marketing. Even when you do get approved, there are usually fees hidden in the tax preparation costs. You're much better off just filing early and waiting the 2-3 weeks for the IRS to process your return. The advances made more sense years ago when refunds took 6-8 weeks, but now it's just not worth it.
That's easy to say when you're not living paycheck to paycheck. Some of us have bills due now and can't just "wait 2-3 weeks." Last year's advance helped me avoid an eviction while waiting for my full refund. I get your point about hidden fees, but for people in tough situations, these advances can be the difference between keeping the lights on or not.
@Amaya Watson You re'absolutely right - it s'really frustrating when people dismiss these advances as unnecessary when they ve'clearly never been in a situation where waiting even a few weeks isn t'an option. While I agree the fees can be predatory, sometimes you need that money immediately for rent, utilities, or car repairs that can t'wait. That said, given how restrictive the approval process has become this year, it might be worth looking into other emergency options if possible - some credit unions offer small emergency loans with better terms, or there are apps like Earnin that let you access earned wages early. But I totally get that those aren t'always available or sufficient when you need a larger amount quickly.
Yes, OASDI is exactly the same as Social Security! OASDI stands for "Old-Age, Survivors, and Disability Insurance," which is the official name for what we commonly call Social Security. For 2025, the maximum annual OASDI contribution is $11,780 (6.2% of the $190,000 wage base limit). Based on your YTD amount of $9,342.18, you're getting close to hitting that cap - you have about $2,438 left to contribute. Once you reach that maximum, the OASDI deduction will stop appearing on your paychecks for the remainder of the year, which means you'll see a nice increase in your take-home pay (that extra 6.2%!). Most employers don't give advance notice - you'll just notice when your paycheck is suddenly larger. Given your current contribution level, you'll probably hit the cap within the next few months. It's actually a nice perk of higher earnings - those last paychecks of the year feel like bonuses when the OASDI withholding stops!
This is exactly what I needed to know! I've been stressing about whether I was calculating this correctly. It's such a relief to understand that once I hit that $11,780 cap, I'll actually see more money in my paychecks for the rest of the year rather than it being some kind of penalty or problem. I'm curious - when you say "within the next few months," do you think there's any way to calculate more precisely when I'll hit the cap? Like, if I know my salary and pay schedule, could I figure out which specific paycheck will be the last one with the full OASDI deduction? It would be fun to mark it on my calendar and look forward to that first bigger paycheck! Also, does anyone know if this same principle applies to things like bonuses? If I get a year-end bonus in December after already hitting the OASDI cap, would that bonus come without any Social Security tax taken out?
You can definitely calculate more precisely when you'll hit the cap! Based on your current YTD of $9,342.18, you need $2,437.82 more to reach the $11,780 maximum. If you divide that remaining amount by your typical OASDI deduction per paycheck ($783.25 from your example), you'd hit the cap in about 3.1 pay periods. So if you're paid biweekly, that's roughly 6-7 weeks from your last paycheck shown. And yes, any bonuses received after you've already hit the annual OASDI cap will come without Social Security tax! Only Medicare tax (1.45%) would still apply to the bonus. It's actually one of the nice perks of hitting the cap early - those year-end bonuses keep more of their value since they avoid the 6.2% OASDI withholding. Just keep in mind that if your regular salary varies (overtime, commissions, etc.), the timeline might shift a bit, but you can always recalculate as you get closer!
Yes, OASDI is exactly the same as Social Security! OASDI stands for "Old-Age, Survivors, and Disability Insurance," which is the official name for what we commonly call Social Security. For 2025, the maximum annual OASDI contribution is $11,780 (6.2% of the $190,000 wage base limit). Looking at your YTD amount of $9,342.18, you're getting close to hitting that cap - you have about $2,438 left before you reach the maximum. Once you hit that cap, the OASDI deduction will completely stop for the rest of the year, which means you'll see a nice 6.2% increase in your take-home pay for those remaining paychecks. It's like getting a temporary raise! Most employers don't notify you in advance - you'll just notice when your paycheck suddenly gets bigger. Based on your current contribution rate of $783.25 per paycheck, you'll probably hit the cap in about 3 more pay periods. So if you're paid biweekly, that's roughly 6 weeks away. Mark your calendar - those holiday season paychecks are going to look great!
This is really helpful! I never knew that Social Security had a cap while Medicare doesn't. As someone who's new to earning above the OASDI threshold, this is actually pretty exciting news - I had no idea I'd get bigger paychecks at the end of the year. One thing I'm wondering about - if I change jobs after hitting the OASDI cap, will my new employer know that I've already maxed out for the year? Or will they start withholding Social Security taxes again even though I've already paid the maximum? I'm considering a job switch in the next few months and want to understand how this might affect my finances. Also, thanks to everyone who shared those tools and resources earlier in the thread - it's clear there are some good options for getting personalized help with these tax questions when you need it!
One thing I've found helpful as another high-income earner is to look at the effective interest rate after tax savings, not just the dollar amount saved. If you're borrowing $1M at 6.2% and your effective rate after tax benefits is 5.1%, that's still a pretty high rate historically. Would you borrow money at 5.1% to invest elsewhere? That's essentially what you're doing when you choose a smaller down payment to "take advantage" of the mortgage interest deduction.
That's a really good way of looking at it! I never thought about it that way. What would you say is the threshold where it makes sense to put more down vs. keeping cash for other investments?
That's exactly the right framework to think about it! I generally use the risk-free rate as my baseline - if I can't reasonably expect to earn more than my effective mortgage rate in other investments, then paying down the mortgage makes more sense. Right now with 10-year treasuries around 4.5%, an effective mortgage rate of 5.1% after taxes means you'd need to find investments yielding over 5.1% just to break even. When you factor in the risk of those investments versus the guaranteed "return" of paying down your mortgage, the math often favors the larger down payment. Plus, at our income levels, we're likely already maxing out tax-advantaged accounts, so any additional investments would be in taxable accounts where the returns get hit with capital gains taxes too.
Great question! As someone who went through this exact analysis last year with similar income levels, I can share what I learned. Your math is directionally correct, but there are a few key refinements for high earners: 1. **Marginal vs. Effective Rate**: At $520K income, you're likely in the 35% bracket, but remember that not all your income is taxed at that rate. The mortgage interest deduction saves you taxes at your marginal rate on the amount above the standard deduction. 2. **Phase-out Considerations**: At your income level, you're getting close to where certain deductions start phasing out. The mortgage interest deduction itself doesn't phase out, but other itemized deductions might, which can complicate the calculation. 3. **SALT Cap Impact**: Don't forget that state and local taxes are capped at $10K. If you're in a high-tax state, this cap might already push you past the standard deduction before you even factor in mortgage interest. 4. **Declining Benefit**: The tax benefit decreases each year as you pay down principal and the interest portion shrinks. Your first-year calculation looks right, but year 10 will be much different. I'd recommend modeling this out over several years rather than just the first year to get a true picture of the financial impact on your down payment decision.
This is really helpful! I'm curious about point #2 on phase-outs - which specific deductions start phasing out at high income levels? I know about the SALT cap, but are there others I should be aware of when calculating the true benefit of mortgage interest? Also, when you say "model this out over several years," do you have a recommended approach or tool for doing that analysis?
I went through a very similar situation last year with my C-Corp, and I can tell you that you definitely need to get this sorted out properly. Taking "owner's draws" from a C-Corporation without proper documentation is a major compliance issue. Here's what I learned the hard way: C-Corporations are separate tax entities, so any money you take out must be classified as either salary (subject to payroll taxes and requiring W-2s) or dividends (requiring corporate board resolutions and 1099-DIV forms). You can't just take informal draws like you might with an LLC. Your tax preparer should absolutely be addressing this on your 1040. If they're only showing your S-Corp K-1 income and ignoring the C-Corp distributions, that's a red flag. I'd recommend having a serious conversation with them about how those distributions should be reported, and if they can't give you clear answers, consider getting a second opinion. The double taxation aspect is also important to understand - your C-Corp should have paid corporate income tax on its profits, and then you'll pay personal income tax on any dividends you receive. This is very different from your S-Corp where income only gets taxed once at the personal level.
This is exactly the kind of clear explanation I wish I had when I was starting out with my corporations! The distinction between how S-Corps and C-Corps handle distributions is so important but rarely explained well. One thing that really caught my attention is your point about the tax preparer potentially missing the C-Corp distributions entirely. That seems like a pretty serious oversight - wouldn't that mean the OP could be underreporting income? I'm wondering if there are penalties for that kind of mistake, especially if it gets discovered in an audit later. Also, when you mention getting a second opinion, do you think it's worth consulting with a tax professional who specifically has experience with multi-entity structures? It sounds like the OP's current preparer might not have the expertise needed for this more complex situation.
You're absolutely right about the potential underreporting issue - that's actually one of my biggest concerns for the OP. If those C-Corp distributions aren't being reported at all, that's definitely underreported income, and yes, there can be significant penalties including interest charges, accuracy-related penalties (20% of the underpayment), and potentially even negligence penalties if the IRS determines it was a substantial understatement. Regarding getting a second opinion, I'd definitely recommend finding a CPA or tax attorney who specifically deals with multi-entity structures. The OP's current preparer missing the C-Corp distributions entirely suggests they may not have enough experience with the complexities of owning both pass-through entities (S-Corp) and separate taxable entities (C-Corp) simultaneously. Someone who regularly handles business owners with multiple entity types would immediately flag the missing C-Corp income and help properly classify those distributions. They'd also be able to advise on potential amended returns if needed to get everything compliant before any IRS inquiries arise.
This is a really complex situation that highlights why having multiple entity types can create significant compliance challenges. Based on everything discussed here, it sounds like you have several urgent issues to address: 1. **Immediate action needed**: Your C-Corp distributions are likely being completely omitted from your personal tax return, which means you're potentially underreporting income. This could result in penalties, interest, and audit risks. 2. **Proper classification required**: Those "owner's draws" from your C-Corp need to be properly classified as either salary (requiring payroll tax compliance and W-2s) or formal dividend distributions (requiring corporate resolutions and 1099-DIV forms). You can't treat C-Corp distributions the same way you handle S-Corp pass-through income. 3. **Documentation gap**: It sounds like your C-Corp may not have the proper corporate formalities in place (board resolutions, dividend declarations, etc.) that the IRS expects to see for legitimate dividend distributions. Given the complexity and potential penalties involved, I'd strongly recommend getting a second opinion from a CPA who specializes in multi-entity business structures before finalizing your return. Your current preparer's omission of the C-Corp income is concerning and suggests they may not have sufficient experience with your specific situation. Don't rush to file until you're confident everything is properly documented and reported - the cost of getting expert help now is much less than dealing with IRS penalties and audit issues later.
Lena Schultz
The hobby loss rule can be stressful, but you're actually in a stronger position than you might think. Having legitimate wholesale accounts with Southern Hobby and GTS Distribution, maintaining detailed QuickBooks records, and keeping all receipts shows you're operating like a real business - not a hobby. The 3-out-of-5 year profitability test is just one factor the IRS considers. They also look at whether you're making business-like changes to improve profitability, which it sounds like you are doing. The fact that you're actively evaluating whether to continue or dissolve shows business judgment. If you do decide to dissolve, you'll need to handle the inventory carefully. Any inventory you sell during wind-down is income, while inventory you keep for personal use would be treated as a distribution at fair market value. You can still deduct legitimate business expenses through the final dissolution. One suggestion: before dissolving, consider documenting any specific changes you've made or plan to make to improve profitability. This creates a paper trail showing business intent that could be valuable if the IRS ever questions your losses. The card market has been volatile, so external factors beyond your control might also support your case.
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Yuki Tanaka
ā¢This is really solid advice, especially about documenting the changes you're making to improve profitability. I'm in a similar spot with my business and hadn't thought about how external market factors could actually help support your case. The trading card market has definitely been all over the place the last few years - that's not something you could have predicted when you started. One thing I'd add is maybe keeping records of any industry research or market analysis you do when making business decisions. Even something like tracking how certain product categories perform or noting when you adjust your purchasing strategy based on market trends could help show you're making informed business decisions rather than just buying cards you like. Have you considered maybe pivoting to focus more on the memorabilia side if that has better margins than the trading cards? Sometimes showing you're willing to adapt your business model can be another good indicator of legitimate business intent.
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Arjun Patel
I've been through a similar situation with my consulting business that ran losses for the first few years. The hobby loss rule is definitely something to take seriously, but you're actually doing a lot of things right that work in your favor. The IRS uses a nine-factor test to determine business vs. hobby intent, and you're hitting several key factors: maintaining complete records, having legitimate wholesale supplier relationships, operating from a dedicated space, and most importantly - you're actively evaluating and making business decisions (like considering dissolution). One thing that really helped me was creating a written business plan that documented my strategy for achieving profitability. This doesn't have to be fancy - just outline what you've learned about which products have better margins, how you plan to reduce inventory costs, or any market trends you're adapting to. The trading card market volatility since 2021 actually works in your favor as an external factor affecting profitability. If you do dissolve, timing matters for tax purposes. You'll want to coordinate the final sale/distribution of inventory with your tax professional to optimize the treatment of remaining losses and any income from liquidation. But honestly, with your solid documentation and business practices, continuing might be worth considering if you can identify a clear path to better margins.
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