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As someone who works in payroll, I can tell you this happens more often than it should. The Box 13 retirement plan checkbox is sometimes overlooked because it's separate from the actual contribution amounts in Box 12. Our software is supposed to automatically check this box when there are retirement contributions, but sometimes during year-end processing things get messed up. Definitely ask for a corrected W-2, but know that this particular error won't affect your tax calculation or refund amount. The IRS systems primarily look at the Box 12 codes (D, AA, etc.) to verify retirement contributions, not the Box 13 checkbox.

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Omar Hassan

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Is this something that would trigger an audit or cause problems down the road? I hate asking my HR department for anything because they're so difficult to deal with.

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This specific error by itself is very unlikely to trigger an audit. The IRS systems can see your retirement contributions through the Box 12 codes, which are much more important for tax processing purposes. If you're contributing to an IRA in addition to your 401k, this could potentially cause confusion about deduction eligibility, but even then it's more likely to result in a letter asking for clarification rather than a full audit. If dealing with HR is a major headache and you're not claiming IRA deductions, you could reasonably file with the W-2 as-is with minimal risk.

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Don't make this more complicated than it needs to be. Your 401k contributions are correctly showing in boxes 12-D and 12-AA, which is what actually matters for tax calculations. The Box 13 checkbox is primarily used to determine eligibility for deducting traditional IRA contributions. If you're not contributing to a traditional IRA, this has zero impact on your taxes. Even if you are, the IRS can see your 401k participation from the Box 12 entries. I've had this happen twice and just filed my taxes normally - never heard a peep from the IRS about it.

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Diego Chavez

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Are you sure about this? I thought the retirement plan box was important for other things too. What about Saver's Credit eligibility? Doesn't that require knowing if you're in a retirement plan?

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Naila Gordon

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Just my experience, but I deducted my hearing aids last year as a medical expense along with some dental work and surgery costs. The combined amount got me over the 7.5% threshold. When you file, make sure you keep all receipts and documentation from your audiologist about the medical necessity. I also got a letter from my doctor explaining why I needed them, which helped support the deduction.

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Cynthia Love

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Was it complicated to itemize? I've always just taken the standard deduction because it seemed easier.

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Mei Chen

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It's not too complicated to itemize, especially if you have substantial medical expenses like hearing aids. You'll use Schedule A instead of taking the standard deduction. The key is making sure your total itemized deductions (medical expenses over 7.5% of AGI, state/local taxes, mortgage interest, charitable donations) exceed the standard deduction amount to make it worthwhile. For 2024, the standard deduction is $14,600 for single filers and $29,200 for married filing jointly. If your hearing aids plus other medical expenses get you over that 7.5% AGI threshold and your total itemized deductions beat the standard deduction, then it's worth doing. Most tax software will automatically calculate both scenarios and tell you which saves you more money.

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Axel Bourke

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This is really helpful! I never realized the calculation could be so straightforward. My hearing aids were $6,500 and I had some other medical bills this year too - probably around $2,000 for various appointments and treatments. If my AGI is around $55,000, then 7.5% would be about $4,125, so I'd have roughly $4,375 in deductible medical expenses ($6,500 + $2,000 - $4,125). That alone wouldn't beat the standard deduction, but I also pay state income tax and have some charitable donations. Thanks for breaking down how to think about whether itemizing makes sense!

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GamerGirl99

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Just wanted to add my experience for anyone else in a similar situation. I had almost the exact same scenario last year - bought Bitcoin through CashApp in 2021 and sold at a small loss in 2024. Never received a 1099-B from them, but I went ahead and filed using my transaction records from the app. The key thing I learned is that you can actually download a CSV file of all your Bitcoin transactions directly from CashApp. Go to your profile, then "Privacy & Security," then "Download My Data." It takes a day or two to process, but you get a comprehensive file with all transaction details including dates, amounts, and fees. This makes filling out Form 8949 much easier than trying to screenshot individual transactions. Also, don't forget to include any fees CashApp charged in your cost basis - those small transaction fees can add up and increase your deductible loss. In my case, the fees actually made my loss about $15 higher than I initially calculated, which helped a bit more with the tax offset. The IRS accepted my return without any issues, and I got my refund on schedule. So definitely don't wait around for forms that probably aren't coming!

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LilMama23

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This is incredibly helpful! I had no idea you could download a comprehensive CSV file from CashApp. I've been manually trying to track down individual transactions and it's been a nightmare. The tip about including fees in the cost basis is also something I completely overlooked - those small transaction fees definitely add up over multiple buys/sells. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's reassuring to know someone else went through the same process successfully without waiting for the 1099-B!

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Julian Paolo

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I went through something very similar last year! Based on your transaction amounts ($950 purchase, $920 sale), CashApp definitely won't be sending you a 1099-B since you're well under the $600 reporting threshold that others mentioned. Here's what I'd recommend: Don't wait any longer to file your taxes. You have everything you need right in the CashApp app. Go to your Bitcoin transaction history and document the purchase date (2021), purchase amount ($950), sale date (last month), and sale amount ($920). Since you held for over a year, this is a long-term capital loss of about $30. Even though $30 might seem small, it's still a legitimate deduction that can offset other income. Plus, if you're waiting for your refund, there's really no benefit to delaying your filing when you already have all the information you need. The IRS doesn't require you to have the 1099-B to report crypto transactions - you just need accurate records, which you can get directly from CashApp. I filed without waiting for forms and had zero issues with my return being processed.

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Ana Rusula

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This is exactly the kind of straightforward advice I needed to hear! I've been overthinking this whole situation and putting off filing my taxes for weeks now. You're absolutely right - I have all the information I need right there in the app, and waiting around for a form that's not coming is just costing me time and delaying my refund. I'm going to pull up my CashApp transaction history tonight and get this sorted out so I can finally file. Thanks for the reality check and for sharing your experience - it's really helpful to know that others have been through this exact same scenario successfully!

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Liam Duke

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Thanks for starting this discussion - this is such an important topic that many people don't think about until it's too late! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I converted my primary residence to a rental for a few years and now I'm back living in it. One thing I want to emphasize is that the IRS computer systems have become incredibly sophisticated at matching data. When you eventually sell, they'll receive a 1099-S showing the sale price, and their systems can cross-reference that against your historical Schedule E filings to look for potential depreciation recapture situations. The key thing to remember is that depreciation recapture is calculated on the LESSER of: (1) the total depreciation you claimed (or should have claimed) during the rental period, or (2) the gain on the sale. So even if your property appreciates significantly by 2035, you're only paying recapture tax on that 2.5 years worth of depreciation, not the entire gain. My advice would be to create a simple spreadsheet now documenting your rental period dates, the property's basis when converted to rental, and the annual depreciation amounts. Even if you lose your tax returns, having this basic information will help you (or your tax preparer) reconstruct the numbers accurately when the time comes. The peace of mind is worth the small effort now!

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This is really helpful context about how the recapture calculation works! I didn't realize it was the lesser of depreciation claimed vs. gain on sale - that actually makes me feel a bit better about the potential tax hit down the road. Your point about creating a spreadsheet now is brilliant. I'm definitely going to do that this weekend while the rental period details are still fresh in my memory. Do you happen to know if there's a standard format or specific information I should make sure to include beyond the basics you mentioned? I want to make sure I'm documenting everything a tax preparer would need 15+ years from now. Also, when you say "basis when converted to rental" - is that the fair market value at the time of conversion, or the original purchase price? I've seen conflicting information on this and want to make sure I'm using the right number for the depreciation calculations.

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Great question about the basis calculation! For depreciation purposes when you convert a primary residence to rental, you use the LESSER of: (1) your adjusted basis in the property (generally what you paid plus improvements, minus any prior depreciation), or (2) the fair market value at the time of conversion. This is actually a protective rule - it prevents you from depreciating more than what the property was actually worth when you started renting it out. So if you bought your house for $300k but it was only worth $250k when converted to rental, you'd use $250k as your depreciable basis. For your spreadsheet, I'd recommend including: conversion date, fair market value at conversion, original purchase price, cost of any major improvements before conversion, the calculated depreciable basis, annual depreciation amounts, and rental period start/end dates. Also keep records of any improvements made DURING the rental period, as those affect your basis too. One more tip: if you're not sure about the fair market value at the time of conversion, you can use online tools like Zillow estimates, tax assessments, or even get a simple appraisal. Having some documentation of how you determined that value could be helpful if questions arise later.

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Mei Lin

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This is such a valuable discussion! As someone who works in tax compliance, I want to add a few practical points that might help with your long-term planning. First, regarding IRS record keeping - while they officially keep records for about 7 years, their property transaction matching systems have become much more sophisticated. They maintain databases that can cross-reference 1099-S forms (property sales) with historical Schedule E filings going back much further than 7 years. So yes, they absolutely can and do catch depreciation recapture issues even from many years ago. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the Section 121 exclusion interaction. Since this was your primary residence before and after the rental period, you may be able to exclude up to $250K (single) or $500K (married) of gain when you sell - but this doesn't apply to the depreciation recapture portion. That will always be taxable at the 25% rate (under current law). My recommendation would be to treat this as a compliance issue, not a "will they catch me" gamble. Create that documentation spreadsheet others have mentioned, but also consider filing Form 3115 (Application for Change in Accounting Method) if you realize you calculated depreciation incorrectly in those years. This lets you fix errors proactively and often reduces penalties. The peace of mind of having everything properly documented and calculated is worth far more than any potential tax savings from hoping it gets overlooked.

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This is incredibly thorough advice, thank you! I had no idea about Form 3115 - that's exactly the kind of proactive approach I was looking for. The Section 121 exclusion interaction is also something I hadn't considered. So just to make sure I understand: if I sell for a $400k gain but had $15k in total depreciation during the rental years, I'd pay the 25% recapture rate on that $15k, and then potentially exclude the remaining $385k gain under Section 121 (assuming I meet the requirements)? Also, you mentioned "under current law" for the 25% rate - do you think there's a realistic chance that depreciation recapture rates could change significantly by 2035? I'm trying to plan for worst-case scenarios here, and if rates could jump to ordinary income levels, that would definitely influence my long-term strategy. One more question - you seem to really know this area. Do you have any thoughts on whether it makes sense to consult with a tax professional now, even though I'm not selling for 10+ years? Or is it better to wait until closer to the actual sale date when tax laws might have changed anyway?

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14 One thing nobody's mentioned - make sure you're properly licensed and insured for a home laundry business! My sister got hit with fines because she didn't have the right permits. Also affects your tax situation because those permit fees and insurance premiums are deductible business expenses.

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2 Good point! I had to get a home occupation permit ($85/year) and additional liability insurance when I started my laundry service. Both were fully deductible on Schedule C. My insurance agent also recommended taking photos of all my equipment for potential casualty loss deductions if anything gets damaged.

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Great discussion everyone! As someone who's been running a small home-based service business for a few years, I can definitely relate to the confusion around deductions. One thing I'd add is to consider setting up a separate business bank account if you haven't already - it makes tracking business expenses so much easier come tax time. Also, don't forget about deducting your business insurance premiums, any professional memberships or subscriptions related to your laundry business, and even mileage for business-related trips (like picking up supplies or meeting clients). These smaller deductions can really add up over the year. Keep receipts for everything and consider using a simple spreadsheet or accounting app to track expenses monthly rather than scrambling at tax time. One last tip - if you're doing laundry for other businesses, make sure you're issuing proper invoices and keeping copies. The IRS loves to see that paper trail for business-to-business transactions.

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QuantumQuest

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This is really helpful advice! I hadn't thought about the mileage deduction - I do make trips to pick up commercial detergent and fabric softener from the restaurant supply store about once a month. That could add up to a decent deduction over the year. The separate business bank account is something I keep putting off, but you're right that it would make tracking so much cleaner. Right now I'm trying to separate personal and business transactions from the same account and it's getting messy, especially with utility payments that are partially business use. Quick question - for the business insurance, did you have to get a special policy or was it an add-on to your homeowner's insurance? I'm worried about my homeowner's policy not covering business activities.

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