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Do I have to pay taxes on money I'm using to pay back taxes from previous year?

So here's my situation - I got slammed with a pretty big tax bill of about $67,500 for last year (2023). The problem is, my income this year (2024) is only going to be around $67,000, and I'm planning to use literally ALL of it to pay off what I owe the IRS from 2023. My question is - does the IRS expect me to pay taxes on the $67,000 I earned this year even though every single penny is going straight back to them for my 2023 tax debt? It seems crazy that I'd have to pay taxes on money that's only being used to pay taxes! But I've heard the tax code can be pretty merciless. I'm trying to figure out if I need to set aside even more money for 2024 taxes or if there's some kind of exemption or deduction for this situation. Any help would be really appreciated because I'm stressing about potentially creating a never-ending cycle of tax debt.

Tip from personal experience: whatever you do, FILE YOUR RETURN on time for 2024 even if you can't pay what you owe!! The penalty for not filing is WAY worse than the penalty for not paying. The failure-to-file penalty is 5% of unpaid taxes each month while failure-to-pay is only 0.5% monthly.

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This is the best advice here tbh. I made this mistake and ended up paying an extra $4,000 in penalties because I didn't file since I couldn't pay. The IRS is actually pretty reasonable about payment plans if you're proactive and communicate with them.

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Thanks for confirming! Yeah, it's something I wish I'd known earlier. I put off filing for almost 8 months because I couldn't pay what I owed, and those failure-to-file penalties absolutely destroyed me financially. I've found that the IRS is surprisingly willing to work with people on payment plans. Their interest rates aren't even that bad compared to credit cards or personal loans. The key is staying in communication and never ignoring notices.

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I feel your pain on this one! I went through something similar a few years back and learned the hard way that the IRS treats each tax year completely separately. You'll definitely owe taxes on your 2024 income even though you're using it all to pay back 2023 taxes. Here's what I'd strongly recommend based on my experience: 1. Set up an installment agreement for your 2023 debt ASAP - this will give you breathing room to handle your 2024 taxes properly 2. File your 2024 return on time no matter what, even if you can't pay immediately (the failure-to-file penalties are brutal) 3. Consider making quarterly estimated payments for 2024 if possible to avoid underpayment penalties The good news is that any interest you pay on your tax debt is deductible on Schedule A (though penalties aren't). Also, the IRS is surprisingly reasonable about payment plans if you're proactive about reaching out to them. Don't let this become a snowball effect - deal with both years separately and you'll get through this!

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What's the easiest way to calculate cost basis for non-covered securities from RSUs?

The company I work for gives us RSUs as part of our compensation package, and we also have an ESPP program where we can buy company stock at a discount. I ended up selling everything as soon as they were released to me. When I was doing my taxes for this year, I noticed my 1099-B only showed the cost basis for the ESPP shares (which were marked as covered securities). But the RSUs were listed as non-covered securities with no cost basis information. I'm really confused about how to figure out the cost basis for these RSU shares since I didn't actually pay for them - they were given to me as compensation. I know I already paid taxes on them when they vested, and I sold them immediately so there weren't any additional gains, but my tax bill still looks crazy high. What's the simplest way to determine the cost basis for these non-covered RSU shares? I feel like I'm missing something obvious and potentially paying way more in taxes than I should be. Any help would be amazing! Tax season is giving me a headache!

Has anyone actually calculated how much tax difference this makes? I'm in a similar situation but wondering if it's worth the effort to figure all this out vs just using what's on the 1099-B.

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HUGE difference! If you don't report the correct cost basis on RSUs, you're essentially paying double tax. Example: Let's say you got $10,000 worth of RSUs that vested. You already paid income tax on that $10,000 (it's on your W-2). If you then report a $0 cost basis when you sell, you're paying capital gains tax on the ENTIRE $10,000 again! In my case, I had about $65,000 in RSUs last year. Using the correct cost basis vs. what was on my 1099-B saved me over $13,000 in taxes. Definitely worth figuring out!

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This is such a common issue that catches so many people off guard! I went through the exact same thing last year with my RSU sales. The key thing to remember is that you've already paid taxes on the RSU income when it vested, so you definitely don't want to pay again. One thing that really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track everything. I listed each RSU vest date, the number of shares, and the fair market value per share on that date (which becomes your cost basis). Most equity platforms like Schwab or Fidelity will show this information in your transaction history or under "Tax Lots." Also, don't forget that if you sold immediately after vesting, you might actually have a small capital LOSS due to market fluctuations between vesting and selling. This can actually reduce your overall tax burden slightly. The paperwork is tedious but totally worth it - I saved about $8,500 in taxes by properly reporting my cost basis instead of accepting the $0 basis on my 1099-B. Form 8949 is your friend here, and make sure to use the correct codes for non-covered securities.

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Are Losses from My Inherited Rental Property Tax Deductible Beyond Rental Income?

I came into possession of a rental property when my grandfather passed away in late 2023. The property has a stepped-up basis of around $1.6M, and I've realized the annual depreciation amount is actually bigger than what I'm collecting in rent each year. I've been digging through IRS publications for weeks trying to figure this out, but I'm still confused - can I apply these rental losses against my dividend and capital gains income (which I think counts as passive income?), or am I stuck only being able to use the losses against the rental income itself? I'm preparing for my 2025 taxes and want to make sure I understand how to handle this correctly before I file. Any insights would be super helpful!

Has anyone used TurboTax to handle a situation like this? I have similar rental losses and wondering if the software can handle all these passive activity rules correctly.

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I used TurboTax last year for my rental property. It asks questions about your participation level and automatically applies the passive activity rules. It worked well for my situation, but mine was pretty straightforward. With your large stepped-up basis and significant depreciation, you might want to use their Live version where you can talk to a tax expert during the process.

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation after inheriting my aunt's duplex last year. One thing I learned that might help - make sure you're calculating your depreciation correctly with the stepped-up basis. Since you inherited the property, you get to depreciate based on the fair market value at the time of inheritance ($1.6M in your case), not what your grandfather originally paid for it. This is actually beneficial because it likely gives you much higher annual depreciation deductions. Also, keep detailed records of any time you spend managing the property - even if it's just reviewing tenant applications, coordinating repairs, or doing research about rental rates. If you can document more than 100 hours of participation annually, you might qualify for that $25,000 active participation allowance that Dylan mentioned earlier. Every hour counts toward potentially being able to use those losses against your other income! The depreciation recapture when you eventually sell is something to consider long-term, but for now, maximizing your current deductions while following the rules is probably your best strategy.

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Can I write off my daily work parking costs on my tax return?

So I've been working downtown for about 6 months now and parking is killing me financially. My company doesn't offer any parking reimbursement and I'm paying almost $275 a month just to park near my office building. Public transportation isn't really an option based on where I live. Since this is a necessary expense just to get to my job, can I deduct these parking costs when I file my taxes next year? It would really help offset some of these costs since it's adding up to over $3,000 annually just to park my car. I keep all my parking receipts and credit card statements showing these charges. I've heard mixed things from coworkers - some say you can write off commuting expenses while others say it's never deductible. What's the actual IRS rule on this?

I had this same question and ended up talking to my accountant. Here's the deal: regular commuting and parking at your main workplace = not deductible. But there's a workaround my company uses. Instead of giving me a $3k raise (which would be taxable), they give me a $3k annual parking allowance as a separate line item on my paystub. It's still taxable income, but it feels better psychologically to see it earmarked for parking! The pre-tax transit benefit others mentioned is even better if your employer offers it. If they don't, show them this IRS page: https://www.irs.gov/publications/p15b#en_US_2023_publink1000193740 - it explains qualified transportation benefits that can save both you AND your employer money.

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Have you tried any of the tax software options to figure this out? I've been using TurboTax but it's not super clear on these parking deductions.

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I've tried both TurboTax and H&R Block software. Neither one handles this particularly well in my opinion. They'll tell you work parking isn't deductible if you're an employee, but they don't proactively suggest the pre-tax transportation benefit as an alternative. The best tax software for this specific situation was actually FreeTaxUSA - they have a surprisingly good knowledge base that explains transportation benefits and even provides language you can use when talking to your employer about setting it up. They also have better self-employment expense categories if you're doing gig work and can deduct some parking that way.

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I work as a tax preparer and can confirm what everyone's saying - regular commuting parking costs are NOT deductible for W-2 employees, even if they're expensive and necessary for work. The IRS is very clear that these are personal expenses. However, there are several legitimate alternatives worth exploring: 1. **Pre-tax transportation benefits** - This is your best option! Employers can offer up to $280/month (2025 limit) in pre-tax parking benefits. You save money equal to your tax bracket. 2. **Side gig deductions** - If you do any freelance/gig work, parking for those activities IS deductible. 3. **Employer reimbursement** - Some companies will add parking allowances to compensation packages. 4. **HSA/FSA commuter benefits** - Some employers offer these through third-party administrators. The key is working WITH the tax code rather than against it. I'd strongly recommend talking to your HR department about implementing pre-tax transportation benefits - it's a win-win since it also reduces the company's payroll taxes. Keep those receipts though, just in case your work situation changes to qualify for deductions later!

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Understanding FIFO / FILO on stocks for tax reporting - which method is better?

So I started investing in stocks about 3 years ago, pretty casually at first - just bought some index funds and a few blue chips and basically ignored them. But since last summer I've been much more active with my portfolio (I blame those investment podcasts lol). I'm buying and selling way more frequently and now I'm realizing I have no clue about the tax implications. I keep hearing about FIFO and FILO methods for calculating gains/losses when you sell partial positions. From what I understand, FIFO means you sell your oldest shares first, and FILO means you sell your newest shares first? But I have no idea which one I should be using or if I even have a choice. For example, I bought 50 shares of XYZ Corp at $75 last year, then another 50 at $120 six months ago. Now the price is $100 and I sold 60 shares last week. How do I figure out my capital gains? Does my broker automatically use a certain method? I use Fidelity if that matters. Also, can I switch between methods for different stocks or am I locked into one approach for my whole portfolio? Any help appreciated, I'm trying to be smarter about this before tax season hits me with surprises.

As someone who works in tax preparation, I see this confusion all the time during tax season! You're definitely not alone in feeling overwhelmed by the FIFO/LIFO/SpecID decision - most of my clients who've transitioned to active trading have the same questions. One thing I always tell people is to think about your overall tax situation, not just the individual trades. If you're in a higher tax bracket this year but expect to be in a lower one next year (maybe due to retirement, job change, etc.), you might want to defer gains by using specific identification to sell your highest cost basis shares first. Conversely, if you expect to be in a higher bracket next year, it might make sense to realize some gains now. Also, don't forget about the Net Investment Income Tax (3.8% additional tax on investment income for higher earners). If you're close to those thresholds, strategic lot selection can help manage not just your regular capital gains tax but also whether you trigger NIIT. The good news is that once you get the hang of this, it becomes second nature. And the tax savings really do add up over time - I've seen clients save thousands just by being more intentional about their cost basis elections. Keep asking these questions and learning!

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This is incredibly helpful perspective from a tax professional! I hadn't even considered how my expected future tax bracket should influence my lot selection strategy. That's a whole other layer of complexity I need to think about. The point about the Net Investment Income Tax is especially eye-opening - I'm nowhere near those thresholds now, but if my trading continues to be successful, it's something I should probably start planning for. It sounds like there's a lot more strategic planning involved than just "pick the lots with the best cost basis." Your comment about it becoming second nature is reassuring. Right now it feels like there are so many variables to consider (cost basis, holding period, current vs future tax brackets, NIIT thresholds) that I'm worried I'll make the wrong choice. But I suppose like any skill, it gets easier with practice. Do you have any recommendations for resources where I can learn more about the broader tax strategy aspects? Most of what I've found focuses on the mechanics of FIFO vs LIFO but doesn't get into the bigger picture planning you're describing.

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For broader tax strategy resources, I'd recommend starting with IRS Publication 550 (Investment Income and Expenses) - it's dry but comprehensive. The Bogleheads wiki also has excellent sections on tax-efficient investing that go beyond just the mechanics. For more advanced planning, consider Kitces.com - Michael Kitces writes detailed articles about tax strategy that bridge the gap between basic concepts and professional-level planning. His pieces on tax-loss harvesting and asset location are particularly good. One practical tip: start tracking your marginal tax rate each year and any major life changes that might affect it (job changes, marriage, kids, etc.). This will help you make better real-time decisions about when to realize gains vs losses. You're right that it seems complex at first, but most people only need to master a few key concepts to capture 80% of the available tax savings. Also, don't underestimate the value of a one-time consultation with a fee-only financial advisor or CPA who specializes in investment taxation. Even just an hour or two of personalized advice based on your specific situation can save you years of trial and error.

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This has been such an educational thread! I'm relatively new to active trading myself and had no idea there were so many strategic considerations around cost basis methods. One thing I'm wondering about that hasn't been covered much - how does this all work with dividend reinvestment plans (DRIPs)? I have several positions where I've been automatically reinvesting dividends for a couple years, which means I have tons of tiny lots at different prices. Does this make specific identification super complicated, or do most brokers handle this reasonably well in their interfaces? Also, for those using tax optimization tools like taxr.ai that were mentioned earlier - do they account for DRIP purchases when calculating the best lots to sell? I'm imagining that with dozens of small dividend reinvestment lots, the optimization becomes pretty complex. Appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here. This is exactly the kind of practical knowledge I wish someone had told me about when I first started investing more actively!

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Great question about DRIPs! This is something I've been dealing with too. Most brokers actually handle DRIP lots pretty well in their interfaces - they'll show each dividend reinvestment as a separate lot with its own purchase date and price. At Fidelity, when you go to sell, you'll see all those tiny lots listed out, which can look overwhelming at first but gives you good flexibility. The complexity really depends on how long you've been reinvesting dividends. If you've got years of monthly or quarterly reinvestments, you might have 20+ lots for a single position. But the upside is that this gives you tons of options for tax optimization - you can cherry-pick lots based on both cost basis and holding period. As for tax optimization tools, I haven't used taxr.ai specifically, but most good tax software should account for DRIP purchases since they're just regular lot purchases from a tax perspective. The tools I've seen usually let you upload your full transaction history, which would include all the dividend reinvestments. One tip: if you're planning to do active lot selection with DRIP positions, consider whether you want to continue the automatic reinvestment or switch to taking dividends in cash. The constant creation of new tiny lots can make the decision-making more complex, though it also gives you more optimization opportunities.

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