IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Henry Delgado

•

I work in finance (not a tax pro) but have seen this play out with clients. The pattern usually goes: 1. Notice of tax due 2. Notice of intent to levy 3. Final notice before levy 4. Bank account freeze (this happens FAST) 5. Wage garnishment (they take $ directly from paycheck) 6. Property liens (makes selling impossible without paying tax) 7. Actual seizure of physical assets (rare but possible) Don't panic but don't ignore this! The IRS moves slowly until suddenly they don't. Call them at 1-800-829-1040 and get on a payment plan ASAP. That $42k in savings is definitely at risk of being levied if you don't act.

0 coins

Olivia Kay

•

This is accurate. I'd add that the timeline can vary wildly. I've seen the IRS move from first notice to bank levy in as little as 90 days in some cases, while other times it takes years. The key variable seems to be whether you respond to notices and how overloaded your particular IRS office is.

0 coins

The IRS definitely has seizure powers similar to what you saw with the Tate brothers, but there are important procedural differences in the US. With your $27k debt, you're absolutely right to be concerned about your $42k savings - bank levies are one of their most common and quickest enforcement tools. Here's what you need to do immediately: 1. **Call the IRS at 1-800-829-1040** - Yes, the wait times are brutal, but you need to get on a payment plan before they escalate to levies. Request a streamlined installment agreement since you owe less than $50k. 2. **Consider an Offer in Compromise** - With significant assets ($180k home equity + $42k cash), you might not qualify, but it's worth exploring if you can prove financial hardship. 3. **Request penalty abatement** - Since this was your first time with quarterly payments, you might qualify for first-time penalty abatement, which could save you thousands. 4. **Protect your business funds** - Consider opening a separate business account and moving essential operating funds there while you resolve this. The IRS can freeze personal accounts without warning. Don't wait - the IRS can levy your bank accounts with just 30 days notice, and that $42k you're planning to use for business expansion could be gone overnight. A payment plan will stop collection actions and give you breathing room.

0 coins

This is really solid advice! I'm curious about the separate business account suggestion - would the IRS still be able to levy that if it's under the same SSN/EIN? Also, has anyone had success with the penalty abatement for first-time quarterly payment issues? I'm in a similar boat with my side business and wondering if it's worth the paperwork hassle.

0 coins

As someone who's been through this exact situation, let me share a few additional practical tips that helped me navigate the gambling loss deduction successfully. First, don't underestimate the value of keeping a simple spreadsheet or notebook throughout the year. I track date, location, type of gambling, amount spent, and amount won (if any). This contemporaneous record is much more credible to the IRS than trying to reconstruct everything later from tickets alone. Second, for casino visits, I always get receipts for everything I can - parking, meals, hotel stays if it's a trip. While these aren't gambling losses themselves, they help establish the timeline and legitimacy of your gambling activity, especially if you're claiming significant losses on dates that match these receipts. Third, consider the "breakeven point" calculation before deciding whether to itemize. Remember, you need your total itemized deductions (including gambling losses, mortgage interest, charitable donations, etc.) to exceed the standard deduction ($13,850 for 2023) for it to make financial sense. If your gambling losses alone don't get you close to that threshold, you might be better off taking the standard deduction and not worrying about all the documentation. Finally, if you do itemize and claim gambling losses, be extra careful about accuracy elsewhere on your return. The IRS tends to scrutinize the entire return more carefully when they see gambling deductions, so make sure all your other income and deductions are properly documented too. The $2,700 in taxes you paid upfront isn't necessarily "lost money" - it's withholding that gets credited against your total tax liability when you file your return.

0 coins

LunarLegend

•

This is incredibly comprehensive advice! I'm definitely going to start that spreadsheet approach going forward. Quick question about the "breakeven point" calculation you mentioned - I have about $3,000 in mortgage interest and maybe $1,500 in charitable donations. If I can document $10,000 in gambling losses to offset my $10,000 win, that would put me at $14,500 in itemized deductions, which beats the $13,850 standard deduction by $650. Does that mean I'd only save taxes on that extra $650, or am I thinking about this wrong? I'm trying to figure out if all the documentation effort is worth it for what might be a pretty small tax benefit.

0 coins

Ethan Wilson

•

You're thinking about it correctly! With $14,500 in itemized deductions vs. $13,850 standard deduction, you'd only get additional tax benefit on that $650 difference. At most tax brackets, that's probably only $50-150 in actual tax savings. However, you're missing a key point - without the gambling loss deduction, you'd still owe taxes on the full $10,000 gambling income even if you took the standard deduction. The gambling losses don't just disappear if you don't itemize. So the real comparison is: Standard deduction ($13,850) + paying taxes on $10,000 gambling income vs. Itemized deductions ($14,500) with gambling losses offsetting the gambling income. The tax savings from offsetting that $10,000 in gambling income is likely much more significant than just the $650 difference in deduction amounts. The documentation effort is probably worth it if you can legitimately document those losses, since you're potentially avoiding taxes on the full $10,000, not just getting benefit from the extra $650 in deductions.

0 coins

Emma Anderson

•

Great thread with lots of helpful information! I wanted to add one more important consideration that I learned the hard way - if you're married filing jointly, your spouse's gambling activity matters too. My husband had some casino winnings earlier this year that we reported, and when I was calculating our potential gambling loss deduction, I initially only looked at my own losing tickets and casino losses. But it turns out that on a joint return, you can use either spouse's gambling losses to offset either spouse's gambling winnings, as long as everything happened in the same tax year. So if you're married, make sure you're tracking both spouses' gambling activities when determining whether itemizing makes sense. We ended up with enough combined losses to make the itemization worthwhile, even though individually neither of us would have had enough. Also, one practical tip for the physical organization - I bought a small accordion file folder with monthly tabs. Much more organized than envelopes and easier to flip through if you need to find specific dates or amounts. The tabs make it super easy to separate by month and the folder keeps everything contained and protected. The key thing to remember is that this deduction exists specifically because the IRS recognizes that gambling losses are directly related to gambling income. If you have legitimate, documented losses, don't let the audit risk scare you away from a legal deduction - just make sure your documentation is thorough and accurate.

0 coins

AaliyahAli

•

This is such a valuable point about married filing jointly that I hadn't considered! My spouse occasionally buys scratch-offs too, and I've been completely ignoring those when thinking about our potential gambling losses. We probably have more documented losses between the two of us than I initially calculated. The accordion file system sounds way more practical than my current shoebox method. I'm definitely going to pick one up - having everything organized by month will make it so much easier to add up totals at year-end and would probably look much more professional if we ever got audited. One question though - do we need to track which spouse had which specific losses, or can we just combine everything together on the Schedule A since we're filing jointly? I'm wondering if the IRS cares about the individual breakdown or just the household total.

0 coins

Diego Chavez

•

For married filing jointly returns, you don't need to separately track which spouse had which specific losses on Schedule A - you just report the combined total gambling losses for the household. The IRS looks at the joint return as one tax unit, so all gambling wins and losses get combined. However, I'd still recommend keeping your records organized by spouse in your personal files, just in case you ever need to provide detailed documentation during an audit. This way you can show the breakdown if asked, but for reporting purposes on Schedule A, you just use the total combined amount. The accordion file system has been a game-changer for me too! I actually use two sections - one for my activity and one for my spouse's - but then just add up both sections for the tax return. Makes it much easier to stay organized throughout the year and gives you flexibility if your filing status ever changes.

0 coins

I've been doing a mix of gig work (mainly Grubhub and some TaskRabbit) while working full-time in finance, so I'm dealing with similar tax complexity. One thing I'd add to this great discussion is the importance of keeping a separate business checking account for all your gig income and expenses. I route all my 1099 payments into a dedicated account and pay all business expenses (gas when working, phone mount, etc.) from that same account. This makes tracking SO much easier come tax time, and if you ever get audited, having clean separation between personal and business finances looks much more professional. Also, consider the Schedule C deductions beyond just mileage - things like a portion of your cell phone bill, any delivery bags or equipment, even car washes if you're doing passenger rides to maintain a clean vehicle. These smaller deductions add up and can meaningfully reduce your taxable income. The quarterly payment strategy others mentioned is crucial. I learned this the hard way my first year and ended up owing about $3,800 at tax time plus penalties. Now I treat gig work like I'm my own employer and immediately set aside taxes from every payment. Based on your income level, you might also want to consider if the extra complexity is worth it. Sometimes the mental overhead of tracking expenses, making quarterly payments, and dealing with Schedule C paperwork isn't worth the net income, especially when you're already doing well financially.

0 coins

Ruby Blake

•

This is really helpful advice about keeping finances separated! I'm just starting to consider gig work and hadn't thought about opening a dedicated business account. Do you recommend any particular banks or account types that work well for this? I'm assuming something with no monthly fees would be ideal since the transaction volume probably isn't huge. The point about mental overhead is something I keep going back and forth on. Part of me thinks the extra $600-700 per month (after taxes) could be worth it for paying down student loans faster, but another part of me worries about the complexity and whether it'll stress me out during tax season. Did you find the Schedule C paperwork as intimidating as it sounds, or does it get easier once you have a system in place? Also curious about TaskRabbit - how does that compare to food delivery in terms of hourly earnings and tax complexity? I'd assume the income is more sporadic but potentially higher per task?

0 coins

Peyton Clarke

•

For business banking, I use Capital One Spark Cash for Business - no monthly fees and decent cash back on purchases. Chase Business Complete is another solid option if you maintain a minimum balance. Just avoid anything with per-transaction fees since you'll have lots of small deposits from different platforms. The Schedule C really isn't as scary as it sounds once you get organized. I use a simple spreadsheet to track income and expenses throughout the year, so when tax time comes I just transfer the totals over. The first year took me maybe an extra 2 hours compared to a basic tax return, but now it's routine. Honestly, the quarterly payments are more annoying than the actual paperwork. TaskRabbit is interesting - much higher per-hour potential (I've made $40-60/hour on furniture assembly jobs) but way less consistent than food delivery. You might only get 2-3 tasks per week, and they require actual skills. The tax situation is identical though - still 1099 income with the same deduction opportunities. I actually prefer it because the work is more engaging than driving around with food, plus less wear on your car since you're usually going to one location and staying there for a few hours. If your goal is paying down loans faster, the extra $600-700 monthly could definitely be worth the hassle. That's over $8k per year toward debt, which could save you way more in interest than the tax complexity costs you.

0 coins

Harmony Love

•

I've been doing UberEats as a side hustle for about 6 months while working full-time in marketing, and I'm also in the 32% bracket. Here's my honest take on whether it's worth it: The tax situation is definitely as complex as everyone's describing, but it's manageable with good systems. I use Stride for automatic mileage tracking and QuickBooks Self-Employed for expense categorization. The mileage deduction is huge - I typically deduct about 50-60% of my gross earnings just in mileage alone. What I've found is that location and timing matter enormously. In my area (Denver suburbs), I can consistently make $22-25/hour during dinner rush on weekends, but only $12-15/hour during slow periods. I stick to Friday/Saturday evenings and Sunday afternoon/evening, working about 12-15 hours total per week. After all expenses and taxes, I'm netting around $140-160 per week, which works out to about $7,500 annually. For me, this extra income is specifically earmarked for maxing out my Roth IRA contribution, so it serves a clear financial goal beyond just general spending money. The key insight I'd share: treat it like a temporary strategy rather than a long-term income source. I'm planning to do this for 18 months to accelerate some financial goals, then reassess whether my time might be better spent on career development or other opportunities that could increase my primary income. The flexibility is genuinely valuable though - being able to earn money on your own schedule without any commitment is pretty liberating, even if the hourly rate isn't spectacular after all costs.

0 coins

One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the potential for backup withholding if you don't report this properly. The IRS can require backup withholding on interest payments if they suspect underreporting, which could complicate future transactions. Also, regarding the cash deposits - banks are required to report cash deposits over $10,000, but they can also file Suspicious Activity Reports (SARs) for smaller amounts that seem unusual. While your $7.5K deposit probably won't trigger automatic reporting, having a clear explanation ready is smart. I'd recommend creating a simple spreadsheet tracking the entire loan lifecycle: initial withdrawal amount, withdrawal date, disbursement to friend, repayment date, principal returned, interest received, and interest deposit date. This kind of organized record-keeping shows the IRS you're treating this as a legitimate financial transaction rather than trying to hide income. One last tip: if you plan to make similar loans in the future, consider setting up a simple loan tracking system from day one. It makes tax time much easier and provides better protection if you're ever audited.

0 coins

Zara Ahmed

•

This is excellent advice about backup withholding - that's definitely not something most people think about when making personal loans! The spreadsheet idea is brilliant too. I'm curious about one thing though: when you mention setting up a loan tracking system for future loans, are there any specific software tools or apps you'd recommend? Or is a simple Excel spreadsheet really the best approach for most people? Also, regarding the Suspicious Activity Reports - is there a way to proactively communicate with your bank about legitimate large cash deposits to avoid any potential issues? I've always wondered if calling ahead or including documentation with the deposit would be helpful or if that actually makes things look more suspicious. The backup withholding point is especially important because once the IRS flags you for that, it can affect all your future interest and dividend payments, not just the loan situation. Definitely worth getting ahead of this on the tax return rather than waiting to see if they notice.

0 coins

Oliver Weber

•

I've been following this thread with great interest since I went through something very similar last year. One thing I want to emphasize that others have touched on but bears repeating: the IRS has become much more sophisticated at tracking cash transactions, even when they don't involve banks directly. While your $7.5K interest payment might seem "invisible" sitting in your safe, the IRS has data analytics tools that can identify discrepancies between reported income and lifestyle indicators. If you're audited for any reason in the future, unexplained cash expenditures could raise questions. My advice? Report the interest income properly on your tax return and consider depositing the cash into your bank account. Create a simple memo for your records explaining the transaction (loan amount, dates, interest rate, repayment) and keep it with your tax documents. This way, if questions ever arise, you have a clear paper trail showing this was a legitimate business transaction. Also worth noting: if you charged 15% interest on a 6-month loan, that's actually an annualized rate of 30%, which is quite high but not unreasonable given it was an unsecured personal loan. This rate actually helps support the argument that this was a genuine commercial transaction rather than a disguised gift to a friend. The peace of mind from proper reporting is worth way more than any minor tax savings from trying to keep it under the radar.

0 coins

Dyllan Nantx

•

Really appreciate this perspective on the IRS's data analytics capabilities - that's something most people don't think about when dealing with cash transactions. Your point about the annualized interest rate is particularly insightful. I hadn't considered that 15% for 6 months equals 30% annually, which actually makes this look even more like a legitimate commercial transaction. One question about your recommendation to deposit the cash: would you suggest depositing it all at once or breaking it into smaller amounts? I'm thinking about whether a single $7,500 deposit might trigger more attention than a few smaller deposits over time. Though I suppose multiple smaller deposits could look like structuring, which has its own issues. The memo idea is great - I'm definitely going to create something similar for my records. Do you think it's worth having the friend sign a simple acknowledgment letter confirming the loan terms and repayment? That way both parties have documentation showing this wasn't a gift situation.

0 coins

Ezra Bates

•

I'm dealing with the exact same thing! Filed in early March 2024 and just found my 420 code on the transcript this week. WMR has been stuck on "still processing" for months now with absolutely no helpful information. Reading through everyone's experiences here is both reassuring and nerve-wracking. It's crazy how the timelines are all over the place - some people get resolved in a few weeks while others are waiting 6+ months for what seems like similar issues. Makes it impossible to know what to expect. I was counting on my refund for some emergency dental work that I've been putting off, so the timing is really stressful. But seeing how common this 420 code actually is makes me feel less like something terrible went wrong with my return. Definitely going to pull my wage and income transcript this weekend like so many people have recommended. Based on what I'm reading here, it's probably some small 1099 or interest income I overlooked during filing. It's wild how a tiny oversight can hold up thousands of dollars for months. The lack of transparency from the IRS is the most frustrating part. Just tell us what you're reviewing so we can help resolve it faster! Instead we're all left here playing detective with our own tax situations. Thanks to everyone for sharing their real timelines and tips - this thread has been incredibly helpful for understanding what's actually happening. At least we know we're not alone in this waiting game! Hopefully we all see some positive movement on our transcripts soon. šŸ¤ž

0 coins

Asher Levin

•

I'm in the exact same situation right now! Filed in March 2024 and just discovered my 420 code on the transcript yesterday. WMR has been stuck on "still processing" for what feels like forever with no updates. After reading through all these experiences, I'm definitely going to pull my wage and income transcript this weekend like everyone's suggesting. Seems like most of these 420 codes are triggered by small discrepancies we missed - forgotten 1099s, tiny interest amounts, etc. Better to know what I'm dealing with than just guessing. The timeline randomness is what's really getting to me. Some people here got resolved in 3 weeks while others are waiting 6+ months for seemingly similar issues. Makes it impossible to plan or know what to expect. I was also counting on this refund for some necessary home maintenance, so I totally understand the frustration of having that money tied up with no clear timeline. The lack of communication from the IRS is maddening - just tell us what you're reviewing so we can help fix it faster! This thread has been incredibly helpful though. It's both comforting and stressful to see how common this actually is. At least we're not alone in this waiting game! Fingers crossed we all start seeing some positive movement on our transcripts soon. šŸ¤ž

0 coins

Prev1...10651066106710681069...5643Next