I was in the exact same situation last month. WMR showed February 12th as my date, and the check arrived in my mailbox on February 18th. I'm also military (Fort Liberty). What worked for me was setting up USPS Informed Delivery - it showed me a scan of the envelope the day before it arrived. The IRS uses a very distinctive envelope that's easy to spot. If your WMR says March 15th, I'd expect it between March 20-22nd depending on your location.

Just wanted to add another data point - I'm also military (stationed at Joint Base Lewis-McChord) and got my paper check last year. WMR showed March 8th, and it arrived March 14th - exactly 6 days later. One thing I learned is that if you're in temporary lodging on base, make sure the front desk knows you're expecting an important piece of mail. They sometimes hold government checks separately from regular mail for security reasons. Also, if you haven't already, definitely sign up for USPS Informed Delivery like others mentioned - it saved me from worrying every day about whether it was coming!

I just went through this whole wash sale nightmare last week. One thing nobody mentioned is that some brokers report wash sales differently on their 1099-B forms. For example, my Schwab statement clearly marked the wash sale adjustment with code "W" and a separate column, but my E*TRADE statement had it buried in the footnotes!

Great point about the different brokerage formats! I've dealt with statements from several brokers and they all seem to handle wash sale reporting differently. Here's what I've learned: **Fidelity**: Look for Box 1g on the 1099-B - they clearly mark wash sale adjustments with a "W" code and show the disallowed loss amount. **Vanguard**: They include wash sale info in Box 1f (adjustment code) and provide detailed explanations in the supplemental information section. **Charles Schwab**: As you mentioned, they use code "W" and have a separate column for wash sale adjustments - probably the clearest format. **Robinhood**: This one's tricky - they often combine multiple transactions and the wash sale adjustments can be hard to track. Look for the "Wash Sale Loss Disallowed" line item. **E*TRADE**: Like you said, often buried in footnotes or shown as an adjustment to cost basis without clear labeling. The key is to look for any codes like "W" or "D" (for disallowed loss) and check both the main form and any supplemental statements. When in doubt, most brokers have customer service that can walk you through reading their specific 1099-B format. Don't feel bad about calling - these forms are genuinely confusing even for experienced investors!

This is a really helpful discussion! As someone who's been confused about this exact issue, I appreciate all the different perspectives shared here. One thing I'd add is that it's worth checking with your specific county assessor's office about their timeline and what they consider "assessed" versus "estimated." I called mine last year and discovered they have a specific date when they finalize assessments, even though they send preliminary notices months earlier. The SALT cap point is crucial too - I spent way too much time worrying about property tax timing strategies before realizing I hit the $10k limit anyway. For those of us in high-tax states, the standard deduction often makes more sense than itemizing these days. Thanks to everyone who shared the various tools and services - it's clear there are resources available when the IRS phone lines are impossible to navigate. The assessment versus payment timing distinction seems to be the key issue that trips most people up.

This has been such an informative discussion! As someone who's been dealing with this exact confusion, I really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences and expertise. What strikes me most is how much the rules vary by jurisdiction - it seems like the key is understanding your specific county's assessment process rather than trying to apply general rules. The distinction between "estimated" and "assessed" taxes appears to be crucial, and it's clearly something that trips up a lot of homeowners. I'm also grateful for the reality check about the SALT cap and standard deduction. It's easy to get caught up in optimization strategies without first checking if they'll actually provide any benefit. For many of us, especially in higher-tax states, these timing strategies may not matter at all under current tax law. The various tools and services mentioned here (taxr.ai for document analysis, Claimyr for reaching the IRS) sound like they could save a lot of time and confusion. It's frustrating that such basic tax questions can be so difficult to get answered through normal channels. I think the best takeaway is: 1) Call your county assessor to understand their specific assessment timeline, 2) Check if you'll hit the SALT cap anyway, 3) Verify you'll exceed the standard deduction threshold, and 4) Only then worry about prepayment timing strategies. Thanks to everyone who contributed their knowledge - this kind of community sharing is invaluable for navigating our complex tax system!

The IRS has been extra slow this year. I got that same TurboTax email in March, but it took 12 days for the money to actually hit my account. My sister filed around the same time and got hers in 3 days. There's no rhyme or reason to it honestly.

I've been through this exact situation multiple times. The TurboTax email usually means the IRS has accepted your return and approved the refund, but there are still several steps before it hits your account. With direct deposit, you're typically looking at 5-7 business days from that email notification. However, I'd strongly recommend checking your IRS transcript online rather than relying on the WMR tool - it's much more accurate and will show you if there are any holds or issues. You can create an account on IRS.gov to access it. The transcript will have specific codes that tell you exactly where your refund stands in the process. If everything looks clean on your transcript, you should see the money within a week for direct deposit.

Another thing to consider - if you're using your closing disclosure as proof for that prepaid interest amount, make sure you're looking at the final version. Sometimes there are changes between the initial disclosure and the final one given at closing. The amount listed under "prepaid interest" on the final closing disclosure is what you should be deducting (assuming you don't get a 1098 from the credit union).

Mortgage loan officer here. This happens all the time with loans that are sold shortly after closing. If you paid less than $600 in prepaid interest at closing, the credit union isn't technically required to send a 1098, but they should if you request one. Call the credit union's mortgage department (not just a branch) and ask to speak with someone about getting a 1098 for closing interest. Have your loan number and closing date handy. Explain the situation politely and most places will generate one for you. If they refuse, you can still deduct it without the form, but having the official 1098 makes filing easier and reduces audit risk.