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Daniel Rivera

Question: Is it possible to pay all my taxes at the end of the year instead of from each paycheck?

I've been thinking about my finances lately and had a question about tax withholding. Is it possible to have zero withholding from my weekly paychecks (federal, state, social security, etc.) and just pay everything in one lump sum at the end of the tax year? My thinking is that I could take all that money that would normally go to taxes each week and put it in my high-yield savings account instead. That way I'd be earning interest on it throughout the year rather than letting the government hold onto it interest-free. Has anyone done this before? Are there any special forms I need to file with my employer? Or are there penalties for doing this? Just trying to maximize my money and wondering if this approach makes sense financially.

You can reduce your withholding by filing a new W-4 with your employer, but completely eliminating withholding isn't really what the system is designed for. The tax system is "pay-as-you-go," meaning you're supposed to pay taxes throughout the year as you earn income. If you don't have enough withheld, you could face an underpayment penalty when you file your return. The general rule is that you must pay at least 90% of your current year tax or 100% of your previous year's tax (110% if your income is over $150,000) through withholding or estimated quarterly payments. If you're determined to do this, you'd need to make quarterly estimated tax payments instead of having taxes withheld from your paycheck. The due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 of the following year.

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Thanks for the detailed explanation. I didn't know about the underpayment penalty or the quarterly estimated payments. So even if I set my W-4 to have minimal withholding, I'd still need to make those quarterly payments to avoid penalties?

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Yes, that's correct. If you reduce your withholding, you'd need to make up for it with those quarterly estimated tax payments to avoid underpayment penalties. The IRS expects to receive your tax money throughout the year, not just at filing time. The quarterly payment system is mainly designed for self-employed people and those with significant income from sources without withholding (investments, rental income, etc.). You can use Form 1040-ES to calculate and submit these payments. Keep in mind that calculating these quarterly amounts correctly requires some tax knowledge, so be prepared to do some homework or consult with a tax professional.

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This is exactly why I started using taxr.ai for my tax planning. I had the same idea about holding onto more of my money throughout the year, but was worried about penalties. I uploaded my pay stubs and last year's return to https://taxr.ai and it gave me a personalized withholding strategy. It showed exactly how much I could safely reduce my withholding without triggering penalties, and calculated how much I needed to set aside each month. The tool even created a custom W-4 form for me with the right entries to give my employer. The best part was it calculated the exact interest I could earn in my HYSA versus the potential penalties, showing me the optimal balance. Worked perfectly for me last year!

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Does it handle state taxes too? I live in California and they seem to have their own rules about everything.

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I'm skeptical about these tax tools. How do you know it won't suggest something that gets you in trouble with the IRS? Did you have a tax pro review the recommendations?

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It handles state taxes for all 50 states including California's special rules. The California calculations were actually really helpful because their withholding system works differently than federal. Regarding accuracy, the recommendations come with citations to specific IRS publications and tax code sections. I was skeptical at first too, but had my accountant review it before making changes and he was impressed with how conservative and well-documented the advice was. It's designed to optimize within safe boundaries, not push into gray areas.

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I tried taxr.ai after seeing it mentioned here and wow, I'm actually shocked at how helpful it was. I was definitely one of the skeptics - I thought it would just be another calculator that spits out generic advice. I uploaded my documents (took like 5 minutes) and it showed me I could safely reduce my withholding by about $175 per paycheck without triggering penalties. It even factored in my rental property income and stock dividends, which I didn't expect. The customized W-4 form it created worked perfectly with my company's HR system. My HYSA is paying 4.5% right now, so I'm on track to earn an extra $420 this year by optimizing my withholding. Definitely didn't think that would be possible without risking penalties!

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If you're trying to contact the IRS to ask about this withholding strategy, good luck getting through to anyone. I spent DAYS trying to get clarification on something similar. Their hold times are insane. I finally used https://claimyr.com after being on hold for 3+ hours one day. Check out how it works here: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c - basically they wait on hold with the IRS for you and call you when an agent picks up. When I finally got through, the IRS agent confirmed that while you can adjust your withholding, you absolutely need to either have sufficient withholding or make those quarterly payments to avoid penalties. They also mentioned that if you do this for the wrong reasons (like trying to delay payment indefinitely), it could be considered tax avoidance.

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How much does Claimyr cost? Seems like it would be expensive for them to sit on hold for hours.

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Yeah right. How would this even work? You expect me to believe someone else waits on hold for you and then somehow transfers the call? Sounds like a scam to get people's personal tax info.

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They don't charge based on hold time - it's a flat fee regardless of how long they wait. I don't want to quote the exact price since it might have changed, but it was reasonable considering the 3+ hours of hold time I didn't have to sit through. It works exactly as advertised - they call the IRS, navigate the phone tree, wait on hold, and then call your phone when they've got an agent on the line. There's a brief moment where they connect the calls. No personal info is shared with Claimyr since they're just getting you to an agent, not discussing your tax details.

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Ok I need to publicly eat my words here. After expressing skepticism about Claimyr, I decided to try it because I was desperate to talk to someone at the IRS about my withholding situation. I signed up yesterday afternoon expecting it to be either a scam or disappointing. Within 2 hours, my phone rang and I was connected to an actual IRS agent! I didn't have to sit on hold at all. The connection was seamless - I was just suddenly talking to an IRS representative who was ready to help with my questions. The agent walked me through exactly what I needed to do with my W-4 and estimated payments to optimize my situation without penalties. Probably saved me hundreds in potential penalties and I got definitive answers straight from the IRS. Pretty amazing service honestly.

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One thing nobody has mentioned yet is that you could increase your allowances on your W-4 to reduce withholding, but you need to have a legitimate reason for claiming more allowances. You can't just put a random high number to avoid withholding. If you get caught intentionally underwithholding, the IRS can instruct your employer to withhold at the highest rate AND you might face additional penalties. It's not worth the risk just to get a bit of interest in a savings account.

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The W-4 doesn't use allowances anymore. They changed the form in 2020. Now it's more complicated but also more accurate if you fill it out correctly.

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You're absolutely right, and thanks for the correction. The W-4 was redesigned in 2020 and no longer uses allowances. Instead, it asks for specific dollar amounts for things like other income and deductions. The principle still stands though - if you intentionally provide incorrect information to reduce your withholding without making quarterly estimated payments, you could face penalties. The IRS has gotten much better at identifying patterns of underwithholding.

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I'm actually surprised nobody mentioned that self-employed people do this all the time (except with quarterly payments). I left my W-2 job last year to freelance, and now I make estimated tax payments four times a year. I keep my tax money in an I-bond for the quarters between payments, which beats any HYSA right now. The key is being disciplined enough to actually set the money aside and not touch it. I've known people who spent their tax money and then couldn't pay when the bill came due.

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That's actually a really good point about the discipline required. Do you have any system you use to make sure you're setting aside enough each month? I could see myself being tempted to dip into the funds if they're just sitting in my account.

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I keep a separate high-yield savings account just for taxes and automatically transfer 30% of every payment I receive into it. This is slightly more than I'll actually owe, which gives me a buffer. I also use a spreadsheet to track all my income and estimated tax obligations throughout the year. When quarterly payment time comes, I calculate exactly what I need to pay and transfer just that amount to my checking account for the payment. Any extra stays in the tax account as a buffer. The psychological trick that works for me is labeling the account "Not My Money" to remind myself that it belongs to the government, I'm just holding it temporarily!

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I've been doing exactly what you're thinking about for the past two years, and it's definitely possible but requires careful planning. Here's what I learned: First, you can't completely eliminate withholding for Social Security and Medicare taxes - those are mandatory FICA taxes that must be withheld from your paycheck. But you can significantly reduce or eliminate federal and state income tax withholding. The key is making sure you stay within the safe harbor rules to avoid penalties. I calculate 110% of last year's total tax liability (since my income is over $150k) and divide that by 4 for my quarterly estimated payments. This guarantees no underpayment penalty even if I owe more at filing time. I keep all my tax money in a separate high-yield savings account that I never touch except for quarterly payments. Last year I earned about $380 in interest that I wouldn't have gotten with normal withholding. Not life-changing money, but it's something. The biggest challenge is the discipline aspect - you have to be religious about setting aside the money and making those quarterly payments on time. I use automatic transfers on payday so I never see the money as "mine." One tip: start conservatively your first year. Better to overwithhold slightly and get a refund than face penalties. You can always optimize more in subsequent years once you understand your tax situation better.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I didn't realize FICA taxes were mandatory withholding - good to know I can't eliminate those entirely. Your approach sounds very systematic. Quick question: when you say you calculate 110% of last year's tax liability, are you including both federal and state taxes in that calculation? And do you make separate quarterly payments to each, or is there a way to combine them? Also, what happens if your income changes significantly from the previous year? Does the safe harbor rule still protect you if you're earning much more?

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Great questions! Yes, I calculate 110% separately for both federal and state taxes since they have different safe harbor rules. For federal, it's 110% of last year's tax if your AGI was over $150k (100% if under). Most states follow similar rules but some have their own thresholds. I make separate quarterly payments - federal goes to the IRS and state goes to my state tax agency. You can't really combine them since they're different entities. I use EFTPS for federal payments and my state's online portal for state payments. Regarding income changes - the safe harbor rule protects you as long as you pay the required percentage of *last year's* tax liability, regardless of what you earn this year. So if your income doubles, you're still safe from penalties as long as you hit that 110% threshold. You might owe a big chunk at filing time, but no penalties. However, if your income drops significantly, you might be overpaying throughout the year. That's why some people switch to the 90% of current year rule if they can accurately estimate their current year liability. The beauty of the safe harbor is it takes the guesswork out of it - you know exactly what to pay each quarter without having to predict your final tax bill.

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Just wanted to add a perspective from someone who works in payroll - we see employees try this fairly regularly, and there are a few practical considerations to keep in mind. When you submit a new W-4 to reduce withholding, your HR/payroll department might flag it for review, especially if it's a dramatic change. Some companies have policies requiring manager approval or additional documentation for significant withholding adjustments to protect themselves from liability. Also, be prepared for your final paycheck calculations to be more complex. If you're not having taxes withheld throughout the year, your year-end W-2 might look unusual, which could trigger questions if you ever need income verification for loans, etc. One thing that's worked well for some of our employees is a middle-ground approach: reduce withholding to the minimum safe amount (maybe 80-85% of expected liability) rather than going to zero. This gives you most of the benefit of earning interest on your money while keeping some automatic withholding as a safety net. The quarterly payment system works great if you're disciplined, but I've seen people get into trouble when life happens - unexpected expenses, forgetting payment due dates, or miscalculating their liability. Having some withholding gives you a buffer against these risks.

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This is really valuable insight from the payroll side - I hadn't thought about the HR review process or how it might affect loan applications down the road. The middle-ground approach you mentioned sounds like it might be perfect for someone like me who wants to optimize but is still nervous about going too far. When you say 80-85% of expected liability, how would someone calculate that if they don't know their exact tax situation yet? Would you recommend using last year's return as a baseline, or is there a simpler rule of thumb? Also, do you know if there are any red flags that HR departments specifically look for when reviewing W-4 changes? I want to make sure I approach this professionally and don't create unnecessary complications with my employer.

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Great question about calculating that 80-85% target! I'd definitely recommend starting with last year's return as your baseline. Take your total tax liability (not what you paid or got refunded, but the actual tax owed line from your 1040), then multiply by 0.8 or 0.85. Divide that by your number of pay periods to see how much should be withheld per paycheck. For red flags HR looks for: sudden changes from maximum withholding to zero, employees claiming excessive exemptions without supporting documentation, or patterns that suggest someone is trying to avoid taxes entirely rather than optimize them. The key is being able to explain your reasoning if asked - "I want to manage my cash flow better and make quarterly payments" sounds much more professional than "I don't want to give the government a free loan." Most HR departments are fine with reasonable adjustments, especially if you can demonstrate you understand the quarterly payment requirements. Some even appreciate employees who are financially savvy enough to optimize their withholding properly! Pro tip: if you're nervous about the conversation, you could mention you're working with a tax professional or using tax software to ensure compliance - it shows you're being responsible about it.

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I've been doing a variation of this strategy for three years now and wanted to share some real-world numbers to help with your decision. My situation: $95k salary, married filing jointly, no kids. I reduced my federal withholding to about 75% of what it should be and make up the difference with quarterly payments. Here's what I've learned: **The good:** I keep about $200 extra per paycheck in my HYSA earning 4.3%. Over the year, that's generated roughly $310 in additional interest. Not huge, but it covers a nice dinner out. **The challenges:** You MUST be disciplined about those quarterly payments. I set up automatic transfers of $600 every payday into a separate "Tax Jail" account that I never touch except for quarterly payments. The IRS doesn't care if you forgot or had an emergency - late payments still trigger penalties. **Practical tip:** Start with just federal taxes your first year. Leave state withholding alone until you're comfortable with the process. Most states have smaller penalties anyway, so the federal optimization gives you most of the benefit with less complexity. **The reality check:** After accounting for the time spent calculating payments, setting up systems, and the mental overhead of tracking everything, my effective "hourly wage" for this optimization is maybe $15/hour. It's worth it for me because I enjoy the financial planning aspect, but it's not life-changing money. If you're just looking to earn a bit more on your money without the quarterly payment hassle, consider just adjusting your withholding to get a small refund ($500-1000) instead of a large one. Much simpler and you still keep most of your money working for you throughout the year.

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This is exactly the kind of real-world breakdown I was hoping to see! Your numbers really help put this in perspective. I'm in a similar income range, so knowing you're only getting about $310 extra per year makes me think twice about whether the complexity is worth it. I really like your idea about starting with just federal taxes and leaving state alone for the first year. That seems like a smart way to test the waters without overcomplicating things right away. The "Tax Jail" account naming is brilliant - I can see how the psychological aspect of not considering that money as "yours" would be crucial for this to work. One question: when you say your effective hourly wage is around $15/hour, how much time are you actually spending on this throughout the year? Is it mostly upfront setup time, or do you find yourself spending time on it every quarter?

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Great question about the time commitment! The upfront setup took me about 3-4 hours total - researching the safe harbor rules, calculating my quarterly amounts, setting up the separate savings account, and filling out the new W-4 for HR. During the year, I probably spend about 30 minutes each quarter making the payments (15 minutes for federal via EFTPS, 15 minutes for state). Then maybe another hour at year-end reconciling everything when I file my taxes. So roughly 6-7 hours annually for that $310 benefit. The mental overhead is harder to quantify, but there's definitely some ongoing awareness required - making sure the auto-transfers are working, checking quarterly payment due dates, etc. It's not huge, but it's there. Honestly, if I were starting over and just wanted to optimize without much hassle, I'd probably go with my own suggestion of just reducing withholding enough to get a small refund instead of a large one. Much simpler way to keep more money in your pocket throughout the year without the quarterly payment complexity. The main reason I continue doing it is that I genuinely enjoy the financial planning aspect and it helps me stay more engaged with my overall tax situation. But purely from a time-versus-money perspective, it's pretty marginal!

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As a tax professional, I want to add some important considerations that haven't been fully covered yet. While the strategies discussed here are technically legal, there are some nuances worth understanding: **Safe Harbor Calculations:** The 110% rule applies if your prior year AGI exceeded $150,000. But this percentage applies to your TOTAL tax liability, including self-employment taxes if applicable. Many people forget to include SE tax in their calculations and end up short. **State Variations:** States have wildly different rules. California, for example, has its own safe harbor thresholds and some states don't follow federal safe harbor rules at all. Always check your specific state requirements. **Payroll Tax Limitations:** You cannot eliminate FICA withholding (Social Security/Medicare), but there's also a limit to how much you can reduce income tax withholding if your employer suspects tax avoidance. Some companies require documentation justifying large withholding reductions. **Alternative Minimum Tax (AMT):** If you're subject to AMT, your safe harbor calculations become more complex since AMT has different rules for estimated payments. **My recommendation:** Start conservatively. Reduce withholding by 50-60% your first year while learning the system. The interest you'll earn on the float rarely justifies the stress and potential penalties if you miscalculate. Most of my clients who try this end up reverting to normal withholding after a year or two because the administrative burden outweighs the modest financial benefit. If you're determined to proceed, I'd strongly suggest running your specific situation by a tax professional first rather than relying on online calculators or general advice.

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This is really helpful perspective from a professional - thank you! I hadn't considered some of these complexities, especially the state variations and AMT implications. Your point about the administrative burden often outweighing the financial benefit really resonates with what I've been reading in this thread. It seems like multiple people have mentioned that while it's technically possible and can work, the actual dollar amounts you gain aren't huge when you factor in the time and complexity. I'm definitely leaning toward your conservative approach now - maybe reducing withholding by 50% rather than trying to eliminate it entirely. That way I can still earn some interest on the float without diving into the deep end with quarterly estimated payments right away. Quick question: when you mention that some companies require documentation for large withholding reductions, what kind of documentation typically satisfies them? Is it usually just an explanation of your quarterly payment plan, or do they want to see more detailed tax calculations?

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Most employers will accept a simple written explanation stating that you plan to make quarterly estimated tax payments to cover the reduced withholding. You don't usually need to provide detailed tax calculations unless they specifically ask. A basic statement like "I am reducing my tax withholding and will be making quarterly estimated tax payments to the IRS and state tax authority to meet my tax obligations" is typically sufficient. Some HR departments might ask you to acknowledge that you understand you're responsible for any penalties, but that's usually the extent of it. The key is being upfront and professional about it rather than trying to fly under the radar. Employers generally appreciate transparency since it protects them from potential liability issues. One thing I always tell clients: keep documentation of your quarterly payments (confirmation numbers, bank records, etc.) in case questions arise later during an audit or if your employer needs verification that you're actually following through on your stated plan.

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I've been following this thread with great interest since I'm in a similar situation. After reading everyone's experiences, I think I'm going to take the conservative middle-ground approach that several people have suggested. My plan is to adjust my W-4 to reduce federal withholding by about 60% for next year, while leaving state and FICA alone. This should give me an extra $150-200 per paycheck to put in my HYSA without the complexity of quarterly estimated payments. I did some quick math based on my current tax situation, and even with this modest reduction, I could earn an extra $200-250 in interest annually while still having enough withheld to avoid penalties. Not huge money, but it's something, and the risk/complexity seems much more manageable. Thanks to everyone who shared their real-world experiences - especially those who provided actual dollar amounts. It really helped me understand that while the "earn interest on your tax money" strategy can work, the practical benefits are often smaller than you'd expect once you factor in time and complexity. I think starting small and conservative makes the most sense for someone new to this approach. If it goes well this year, I can always optimize further in the future.

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That sounds like a really smart approach! I've been reading through this whole thread too and was honestly feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the complexities people mentioned - quarterly payments, safe harbor calculations, state variations, etc. Your middle-ground strategy of reducing withholding by 60% while avoiding the quarterly payment hassle seems like the perfect way to dip your toes in the water. I'm in a similar income bracket and was initially excited about the idea of earning interest on "my" tax money, but after seeing the real numbers people shared ($200-400 annually), it definitely puts things in perspective. Your approach of earning $200-250 with much less complexity seems like the sweet spot. I think I might follow your lead and start conservatively too. Maybe I'll even go with just a 50% reduction my first year to be extra safe. Thanks for sharing your plan - it's helpful to see someone else working through the same decision-making process!

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This has been such an informative thread! As someone who's been considering this exact strategy, reading through everyone's real experiences has been incredibly valuable. What I'm taking away from all the discussions is that while it's absolutely possible to reduce withholding and earn interest on that money, the actual financial benefit is pretty modest when you factor in all the complexities. The folks who shared real numbers ($200-400 annually) really helped put this in perspective. I'm particularly drawn to the middle-ground approaches that several people mentioned - reducing withholding by 50-60% rather than trying to eliminate it entirely. This seems to offer most of the benefit without the quarterly payment headaches or the risk of miscalculating and facing penalties. One thing that really stood out to me was how disciplined you need to be with setting aside the money. The "Tax Jail" account concept and automatic transfers seem crucial for making this work without accidentally spending your tax obligations. For anyone else considering this, it sounds like starting conservatively and treating it as a learning experience makes the most sense. The interest earnings might not be life-changing, but it's a good way to become more engaged with your tax planning while keeping more of your money working for you throughout the year. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread has probably saved me from making some rookie mistakes!

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This thread has been incredibly eye-opening for me too! I started reading with the same idea as the original poster - thinking I could just stop all withholding and earn interest on a big lump sum. But seeing everyone's real experiences and actual dollar amounts has completely changed my perspective. The discipline factor really can't be overstated. Multiple people mentioned how crucial it is to immediately set aside that money and never think of it as "yours." I can definitely see how easy it would be to rationalize dipping into those funds for something else, especially if they're just sitting in your regular account. I'm also impressed by how many people emphasized starting small and conservative. That seems to be the common thread among those who've actually succeeded with this strategy long-term. The folks earning $200-400 annually with reduced complexity sound much more sustainable than trying to optimize every last dollar. One thing I'm curious about that hasn't been mentioned much - has anyone tried this strategy during a year when their income changed significantly (job change, promotion, etc.)? I wonder how that affects the calculations and whether it makes the whole thing more complicated to manage. Thanks again to everyone for sharing such detailed experiences. This is exactly the kind of real-world insight you can't get from just reading IRS publications!

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