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Ask the community...

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Andre Moreau

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Thanks for all the helpful responses everyone! Just wanted to share my experience as someone who's been doing bank bonus churning for about 3 years now. A few additional tips that might help other newcomers: 1. **Timing matters** - I try to spread out my bonuses throughout the year rather than getting them all at once. This helps avoid jumping into a higher tax bracket unexpectedly. 2. **State taxes vary** - Don't forget about state income tax if you live in a state that has it. Some states like Texas and Florida don't have state income tax, but others can add another 3-10% on top of federal taxes. 3. **Keep digital copies** - I scan and save all my 1099 forms as soon as I get them. Banks occasionally make mistakes or send corrected forms later, so having your own records is crucial. 4. **Business vs personal accounts** - Business account bonuses are treated the same way tax-wise, but the requirements are often stricter about maintaining balances and meeting transaction requirements. One last thing - if you're planning to do multiple bonuses, consider using a tax software that can handle multiple 1099 forms easily. Some of the basic free versions get clunky when you have 5+ different forms to input. Good luck with your bonus hunting Ryan! It's definitely worth doing if you stay organized about it.

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Dmitry Volkov

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This is really comprehensive advice! I'm just getting started with bank bonuses and had no idea about the timing strategy to avoid bracket jumps. Quick question - when you mention spreading bonuses throughout the year, do you mean the date you receive the bonus or the date you open the account? Some banks take a few months to actually pay out the bonus after you meet their requirements. Also, for someone just starting out, would you recommend focusing on just one or two bonuses the first year to keep things simple, or is it pretty manageable to do more if you stay organized?

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Sienna Gomez

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@Andre Moreau Great point about timing! It s'the date you actually receive the bonus that matters for taxes, not when you open the account. So if you open an account in December but don t'get the bonus until January, it counts as income for the following tax year. For beginners, I d'definitely suggest starting with just 1-2 bonuses in your first year. It helps you understand the process and requirements without getting overwhelmed. Plus, some banks have rules about how often you can get bonuses like (once every 24 months ,)so you want to make sure you re'doing it right rather than rushing and potentially getting disqualified. Once you re'comfortable with the process - tracking requirements, maintaining balances, keeping records - then you can scale up. I probably do 4-6 bonuses per year now, but I started with just one Chase bonus to learn the ropes. Also worth noting that banks sometimes change their terms or requirements mid-promotion, so having fewer accounts to monitor makes it easier to stay compliant when you re'starting out.

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Amina Diop

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Hey Ryan! Great questions - I remember being confused about this stuff when I first started too. Just wanted to add a couple things that haven't been mentioned yet. One important point: if you're planning to do multiple bank bonuses, be aware that some banks (especially Chase) have rules about how many new accounts you can open within a certain timeframe. Chase has their infamous "5/24 rule" for credit cards, but they also scrutinize checking account applications if you've opened too many accounts recently across different banks. Also, I'd recommend starting a simple tracking system right away, even for just one bonus. I use a basic spreadsheet with columns for: Bank Name, Account Type, Bonus Amount, Requirements (like minimum deposit or direct deposit), Deadline to Meet Requirements, Date Bonus Received, and Tax Form Received. This becomes super valuable if you decide to do more bonuses later. One last tip - read the fine print carefully about early account closure fees. Some banks will charge you $25-50 if you close the account within 6 months, even after you've received and kept the bonus. Factor that into your calculations when deciding if a bonus is worth it. You're smart to ask these questions upfront rather than figuring it out at tax time like I did my first year!

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Philip Cowan

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@Amina Diop This is super helpful advice! I had no idea about the 5/24 rule applying to checking accounts too - I was only familiar with it for credit cards. That s'definitely something to keep in mind since I was thinking about potentially doing a few different bank bonuses this year. The spreadsheet idea is brilliant and I m'definitely going to set that up right away. Better to start organized from the beginning than try to reconstruct everything later. Quick question about the early closure fees - do most banks waive these if you keep the account open for exactly 6 months, or do some require longer? And is there usually a minimum balance you need to maintain during that period even after meeting the initial bonus requirements? I m'leaning towards starting with just one Chase bonus since they seem to be mentioned a lot, but want to make sure I understand all the potential costs upfront. Thanks for sharing your experience!

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Got a 1099-C for an old debt that's about to hit statute of limitations - questions about validity and tax implications

I just received a 2022 1099-C in the mail for an old debt that's about to hit the statute of limitations this month. I have some concerns about whether this form is even valid and if I should include it on my tax return. Looking for advice on this situation. 1. The amount in box 2 (amount of debt discharged) is only about 80% of what I actually owed. If I file this on my taxes before the statute of limitations expires, will that somehow extend the statute and allow them to come after me for the remaining 20%? 2. The 1099-C doesn't have my full SSN (only last 4 digits) and they used a nickname instead of my legal name (like "Tom" instead of "Thomas"). Can they legally file a 1099-C without my complete info? 3. The creditor is based in Europe if that makes any difference. 4. According to the IRS website instructions for 1099-C: "The creditor's phone number must be provided in the creditor's information box. It should be a central number for all canceled debts at which a person may be reached who will ensure the debtor is connected with the correct department." There's no phone number listed anywhere on the form. I don't mind paying taxes on forgiven debt that was legitimate, but these issues have me worried that filing this might somehow reset the clock on the debt collection or that the form itself isn't even valid in the first place. Any advice would be really appreciated!

AstroAce

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now - old debt from 2018, European creditor (in my case a UK-based company), and a 1099-C that arrived this year with several red flags. Like yours, mine is missing the required phone number and has incomplete information. One thing I discovered through research is that the statute of limitations on debt collection is completely separate from tax reporting requirements. Filing the 1099-C won't restart the collection clock, but I understand your concern about "poking the bear." For the European creditor angle - I found that many overseas companies aren't fully familiar with US 1099-C requirements. They often use third-party tax services that may not be following all the IRS guidelines properly. The missing phone number is actually a bigger deal than it might seem because it's explicitly required in the IRS instructions, not just a suggestion. Have you checked whether this creditor actually has a legal obligation to issue a 1099-C? If they don't have sufficient business presence in the US, there might be questions about whether they're even required to file these forms. You might want to research their US tax status before deciding how to proceed. Also, definitely document everything about this debt's history - when it was last active, any previous collection attempts, and the exact statute of limitations date for your state. This information could be crucial if any issues arise later.

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Ava Williams

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This is really helpful to hear from someone in such a similar situation! The point about European creditors not being familiar with US 1099-C requirements makes a lot of sense. I hadn't thought about researching their US tax status - that's a brilliant suggestion. How did you go about verifying whether the UK company in your case had sufficient business presence to be required to file 1099-Cs? Is there a specific threshold or database where you can check this? Also, I'm curious about your experience with the missing phone number issue. Have you contacted the IRS or the creditor about it yet? I'm torn between wanting to address the form's deficiencies and not wanting to draw attention to a debt that's so close to hitting the statute of limitations. The documentation advice is spot on too - I've been trying to piece together the timeline from old credit reports and bank statements. It's amazing how much you forget about these details over the years!

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Kelsey Chin

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Great questions! For verifying US business presence, I started by checking if the company has any US subsidiaries or registered offices through state business registries. You can also look up their tax filings if they're publicly traded - they usually disclose their US operations in annual reports. The IRS doesn't have a specific threshold published, but generally companies need "significant business activities" in the US to be subject to 1099-C filing requirements. I haven't contacted them yet about the missing phone number - I'm in the same boat as you about not wanting to wake sleeping dogs so close to the statute date. My plan is to wait until after the statute expires in my state (which is next month), then address the form deficiencies. That way I can't accidentally restart any collection activity. The documentation process has been eye-opening! I found old emails I'd completely forgotten about, and my credit reports showed charge-off dates that didn't match what I remembered. One thing that helped was requesting my full credit file history from all three bureaus - they keep records going back much further than the standard reports show. Since your statute hits this month, you might want to consider the same approach - document everything now, but wait to challenge the 1099-C until after you're in the clear on collections.

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Zainab Ali

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As someone who's navigated a similar 1099-C situation, I want to emphasize a few key points that might help you make the best decision: First, regarding the 80% amount - this partial discharge could actually work in your favor. The creditor may have already written off or sold the remaining 20%, which means they can't later claim it was "discharged" if they're still actively trying to collect it. Keep an eye out for any future collection activity on that remaining balance. The technical deficiencies you've identified (missing phone number, incomplete SSN, nickname instead of legal name) are legitimate concerns, but here's the strategic consideration: challenging these errors now could potentially alert the creditor to review your account right before the statute of limitations expires. Given that you're literally weeks away from the statute expiring, I'd suggest documenting all these deficiencies thoroughly but waiting until after the limitation period passes to address them with either the creditor or IRS. This gives you the best of both worlds - protection from future collection activity AND the ability to challenge an improper 1099-C. One thing to verify: make sure you know the exact statute of limitations date for your state and the specific type of debt. Some states have different limitation periods for different types of contracts, and the clock can restart based on various actions. The European creditor angle is particularly interesting - many overseas companies use US tax preparation services that may not be fully compliant with IRS requirements, which could strengthen your case for challenging the form later.

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Jamal Harris

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This is exactly the strategic approach I was leaning toward! Your point about waiting until after the statute expires to challenge the 1099-C deficiencies is really smart - I hadn't fully considered how addressing it now could accidentally trigger a review of my account right at the worst possible time. I'm definitely going to focus on documenting everything thoroughly over the next few weeks while I wait for the limitation period to pass. It's reassuring to hear from someone who's been through a similar situation that this approach makes sense. One follow-up question: when you eventually did challenge your 1099-C issues after your statute expired, what was the process like? Did you go through the IRS first or contact the creditor directly? I'm trying to plan out my next steps for after I'm in the clear on the collection side. Also, your point about different limitation periods for different contract types is well taken - I need to double-check that I'm using the right timeframe for my specific situation. Better to be absolutely certain before I make any moves. Thanks for sharing your experience - it's incredibly helpful to get perspective from someone who's navigated this exact scenario!

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I'm so sorry for the loss of both your parents and the additional burden this irresponsible preparer has put on you during such a difficult time. This situation is infuriating but unfortunately not uncommon. Here's a prioritized action plan based on what's worked for others: **Immediate steps:** 1. File Form 56 (Notice of Fiduciary Relationship) with the IRS immediately to establish your legal authority 2. Submit Form 4506-T requesting wage and income transcripts for 2022 - this will show you all reported income even if no return was filed 3. Send the CPA a final certified letter demanding all documents within 10 business days, stating you'll file complaints if she doesn't comply **For getting help faster:** - Contact your state's Attorney General consumer protection division - they often have specific procedures for tax preparer misconduct - File complaints with your state board of accountancy and include all documentation of your attempts to retrieve the documents **Document reconstruction:** - Contact all potential income sources directly (pension providers, Social Security Administration, banks, investment companies) with death certificates and executor documents - Check with any financial advisors, insurance agents, or mortgage companies your parents worked with - they often keep copies of tax returns clients provided - Review bank statements for quarterly estimated tax payments to the IRS The IRS has reasonable cause provisions for situations exactly like yours. Keep detailed records of every attempt to contact this preparer - it will be crucial for penalty abatement later. You're handling this exactly right, and the IRS will work with you once you get through to them. Stay strong!

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NebulaNova

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This is such a comprehensive action plan, Sophie - thank you for laying it out so clearly with priorities. Having everything organized like this makes the whole process feel much more manageable. I'm going to start with filing Form 56 first thing tomorrow morning, then get the Form 4506-T submitted right after. The certified letter to the CPA is also going out this week - I've been too polite for too long and it's time to be more direct about the consequences of her continued non-cooperation. Your point about contacting the Attorney General's office is something I'm definitely going to pursue. I had no idea they had specific procedures for tax preparer misconduct, but it makes perfect sense that they would. One quick question about the document reconstruction - when contacting the pension providers and investment companies, do you know if they typically require original death certificates or will certified copies work? I want to make sure I have enough copies before I start reaching out to everyone. It's been really encouraging to get so much helpful advice from this community. Dealing with estate issues while grieving is hard enough without having to navigate someone else's professional misconduct on top of it. Having a clear path forward really helps reduce the stress and uncertainty.

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Bruno Simmons

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I'm so sorry for the loss of both your parents, Oliver. What an incredibly frustrating situation to deal with during an already difficult time. This preparer's behavior is completely unethical and unfortunately all too common. Based on the excellent advice already shared, I'd add one more resource that might help: consider reaching out to the Taxpayer Advocate Service (TAS) at 877-777-4778. They specifically help taxpayers who are experiencing financial difficulty, facing an immediate threat of adverse action, or haven't been able to resolve their tax issues through normal IRS channels. Your situation as an executor dealing with unfiled returns due to preparer misconduct would likely qualify for their assistance. TAS can often expedite transcript requests and help coordinate multiple issues with the IRS more efficiently than trying to handle each piece separately. They also have experience with reasonable cause penalty abatement for situations exactly like yours. Also, when you do get through to the IRS (whether through the regular channels or one of the services others have mentioned), ask specifically about "First Time Penalty Abatement" in addition to reasonable cause relief. If your parents had a clean compliance history before this situation, they may qualify for automatic penalty relief on certain penalties even without having to prove reasonable cause. Document everything you're doing to resolve this situation - your proactive efforts will work in your favor when it comes time to request penalty relief. You're handling this exactly right despite the preparer's complete failure to meet her professional obligations.

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I might be misunderstanding, but are you sure you're looking at the right tax year on your transcript? Sometimes the IRS website defaults to the wrong year. Also, there's a difference between the Account Transcript and the Return Transcript - one might show activity while the other doesn't. Just wanted to clarify this point in case it helps.

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Jacob Lee

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I went through this exact same nightmare last year! My transcript showed "no return filed" for 2022 even though I had the TurboTax confirmation email. After weeks of trying to get through to the IRS, I finally reached an agent who told me my return was sitting in their "Unpostable Unit" because of a minor data mismatch. Here's what worked for me: I went to my local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center with my H&R Block acceptance email and a printed copy of my return. They were able to locate it in their system using the confirmation number and expedite the processing. The whole thing got resolved within 10 business days after that visit. Don't wait on the phone lines - go in person if you can. Bring every piece of documentation you have, especially that acceptance confirmation. Your $3,200 refund is definitely worth the trip, especially with your mom's medical expenses on the line. The local office can also put a priority flag on your case given the financial hardship.

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Eli Wang

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This is exactly the kind of proactive approach that gets results! I'm curious - when you went to the Taxpayer Assistance Center, did they require an appointment or were you able to walk in? I've heard mixed things about wait times at different locations. Also, did they give you any kind of receipt or tracking number for the priority flag they put on your case? I'm dealing with a similar situation and want to make sure I have all my documentation ready before making the trip.

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar situation - bought a used pickup truck in December 2024 for $22,000 and started using it for my landscaping business in January 2025. Based on what everyone's saying here, it sounds like I can take the 80% bonus depreciation on the business portion. One question though - I use the truck about 85% for business and 15% personal. So would I calculate 85% of $22,000 = $18,700, then take 80% bonus depreciation on that $18,700 amount? That would be about $14,960 in first-year depreciation? Also really appreciate the heads up about the future sale implications. I hadn't thought about how taking all this depreciation now would affect taxes if I sell the truck down the road. Definitely something to factor into the decision.

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Dylan Wright

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Yes, you've got the calculation exactly right! Since you use the truck 85% for business, you'd take 85% of $22,000 = $18,700 as your business basis, then apply the 80% bonus depreciation to that amount for about $14,960 in first-year depreciation. Just make sure you're keeping detailed records of your business vs personal use - mileage logs, trip purposes, etc. The IRS can be pretty strict about substantiating that 85% business use percentage, especially with vehicles since they're often used for both business and personal purposes. And yeah, definitely good to think long-term about the sale implications. With that much depreciation taken upfront, if you sell the truck in a few years for more than your adjusted basis, you'll have depreciation recapture to deal with. But for most people, the immediate tax savings outweigh the future tax consequences, especially if you're planning to keep the vehicle for several years.

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Omar Farouk

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I've been following this thread closely since I'm dealing with a similar situation. Bought a used van in November 2024 for $19,500 and started using it for my delivery business in February 2025. One thing I want to add that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you understand the difference between "placed in service" date versus purchase date. The IRS cares about when you actually started using the vehicle for business, not when you bought it. So even though I bought my van in 2024, since I didn't start using it for business until 2025, that's the tax year where I can claim the depreciation. Also, for anyone considering this deduction, remember that you have to choose between taking the standard mileage deduction OR the actual expense method (which includes depreciation). You can't do both. The standard mileage rate for 2025 is pretty high, so run the numbers both ways to see which gives you a bigger deduction. In my case, with an older, less expensive vehicle, the mileage method actually worked out better than taking depreciation. Just wanted to throw that out there since everyone's situation is different!

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Zainab Omar

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That's a really important distinction about the "placed in service" date vs purchase date - thanks for clarifying that! I think a lot of people get confused about which year to claim the depreciation in. Your point about comparing standard mileage vs actual expense method is spot on too. I made the mistake of assuming depreciation would always be better, but you're right that it totally depends on the vehicle value, how much you drive, and your specific situation. The standard mileage rate for 2025 can really add up if you're doing a lot of driving. Quick question - when you calculated both methods, did you factor in all the other actual expenses like gas, insurance, repairs, etc., or just the depreciation piece? I'm trying to figure out which method to use for my situation and want to make sure I'm comparing apples to apples.

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