IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

For anyone still having trouble, I found out TurboTax is doing system maintenance every night from 1am-3am EST right now. That's why uploads might work at some times but not others. Their support chat told me to try during business hours for best results. Apparently they're dealing with higher than normal volume this season.

0 coins

Just wanted to add my experience after reading through all these responses - I had the same upload errors for days and tried everything mentioned here. What finally worked for me was completely logging out of TurboTax, clearing all my browser data (not just cache, but cookies and stored data too), then logging back in. Apparently there was some corrupted session data that was causing the uploads to fail. After doing a fresh login, all my documents uploaded immediately without any errors. Might be worth trying this simple step before going the third-party route or waiting hours for support!

0 coins

Debra Bai

•

Has anyone tried "Income Tax Planning" by Langdon, Albrecht, and Coyle? My friend recommended it but it's expensive and I want to make sure it's worth it before buying.

0 coins

That's actually a textbook used in professional tax planning courses - probably overkill if you're just looking to understand personal taxes better. It's very thorough but focuses more on tax planning strategies than basic understanding. Unless you're pursuing a career in tax planning or already have a solid foundation, I'd start with something more accessible.

0 coins

Paolo Romano

•

For a solid foundation without getting too overwhelmed, I'd suggest starting with "Taxes Made Simple" by Mike Piper. It's specifically designed for people who want to understand the fundamentals without needing an accounting degree. The author does a great job explaining concepts like marginal tax rates, deductions vs. credits, and different types of income in really plain language. Another excellent choice is "The Tax and Legal Playbook" by Mark Kohler - it covers both personal and business taxes with lots of real-world examples. What I like about it is that it explains not just how to follow the rules, but why certain tax strategies exist in the first place. If you end up doing any freelance work or side business, definitely pick up a copy of "Tax Savvy for Small Business" by Frederick Daily. It's become my go-to reference for understanding business deductions and self-employment tax calculations. The key is starting with one book that gives you the big picture, then diving deeper into specific areas as needed. Don't try to learn everything at once - taxes are complex enough that even professionals specialize in different areas!

0 coins

One option nobody's mentioned yet is a custodial account (UGMA/UTMA). I set one up for my niece instead of a 529 because I wanted to give her flexibility to use the money for things besides just education - like starting a business, buying a car, etc. The downside is that investment gains are taxable (though at the child's rate after a certain amount), and your nephew would gain full control at either 18 or 21 depending on your state. This means he could technically use it for whatever he wants once he reaches that age. The upside is complete flexibility in how the money is used. For tax reporting, you'd need his social security number, which means involving the parents to some degree, so that might be a dealbreaker given your situation.

0 coins

Nolan Carter

•

Thanks for bringing up the UGMA/UTMA option. I've heard about these but was concerned about the "giving up control" aspect. Would my nephew really be able to just blow all the money on something like a fancy car once he turns 18/21? That's kind of scary after investing for so many years!

0 coins

Yes, that's exactly right - once your nephew reaches the age of majority (18 or 21 depending on your state), he would have complete legal control over the account. The money legally becomes his to use however he wants, and you would have no say in it. This is why many people choose 529 plans when specifically saving for education - with a 529, you remain the account owner and maintain control even after the beneficiary turns 18. Your nephew would never have direct access to the funds; instead, distributions would be made directly to the educational institution or to reimburse qualified expenses.

0 coins

Instead of a 529 or UGMA, have you considered just investing in a regular brokerage account in your own name and then gifting portions to your nephew when he needs it for college? That's what I did for my niece. The advantages: you maintain complete control, there's no paperwork to set up special accounts, and you can decide year by year how much to give. When she started college, I just gave her $15,000 the first year (under the gift tax exclusion), then did the same for the following years. The disadvantage is you'll pay taxes on all gains along the way, and there's no special tax advantage. But the simplicity and flexibility worked for my situation.

0 coins

Zane Gray

•

But wouldn't you end up paying way more in taxes this way? I thought the whole point of education-specific accounts was the tax advantages. Seems like you'd be giving away a lot of potential growth.

0 coins

@ac68532f8d25 You're absolutely right about the tax disadvantage. Over 12 years of investing, the tax-free growth in a 529 would likely save thousands compared to a taxable account. I ran some rough numbers - if you invested $3,000 annually and averaged 7% returns, you'd probably pay around $8,000-10,000 more in taxes using a regular brokerage account versus a 529. That's a pretty significant hit to your nephew's college fund just for the sake of simplicity.

0 coins

Marcus Marsh

•

Just went through this exact thing with my mom's estate. Make sure you carefully check if there are any deductions listed on the K-1 too (like in box 13). Those can offset some of the income and reduce what you owe. My K-1 had both income AND deductions for estate administration costs.

0 coins

Yes! This is important! My father's estate K-1 had mortgage interest deductions that passed through to me, and I nearly missed them when amending. Those deductions saved me a decent amount when I amended.

0 coins

Max Knight

•

This is really helpful information everyone! I'm dealing with a similar situation but mine involves a trust K-1 from my grandfather's estate. The trust has been ongoing for a few years now, and I've been getting K-1s annually. What's confusing me is that this year's K-1 shows some different types of income than previous years - there's rental income in box 2 and some capital gains in box 9a that weren't there before. I'm assuming this means the trust sold some property or investments during 2023? My question is: do I treat these different income types the same way as the interest income mentioned above, where they all go on my 2023 return even though I'm just receiving the K-1 now? And do rental income and capital gains from a trust get reported differently than regular investment income on my personal return? Thanks for all the detailed explanations - this thread has been more helpful than anything I found on the IRS website!

0 coins

Chloe Harris

•

Has anyone had trouble with tax software calculating the carryforward correctly? I use TurboTax and I'm not sure it's tracking my charitable carryovers from previous years.

0 coins

TurboTax actually does track carryovers if you use it consistently year to year. When you enter charitable contributions, there should be a section asking about carryovers from previous years. The problem is if you switch tax software or don't transfer last year's info correctly, you'll have to manually enter the carryover amount. I learned this the hard way when I switched from H&R Block to TurboTax and almost forgot about $2,000 in carryover donations. Now I keep a separate spreadsheet tracking all my carryovers by year so I don't rely on the software.

0 coins

Chloe Harris

•

Thanks for the info! I've been using TurboTax for years but never noticed that section. I'll look for it specifically this year. A spreadsheet is a great idea. I should probably start tracking this stuff outside the software just to be safe.

0 coins

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that you need to keep really good records of your carryforward amounts. The IRS doesn't track this for you - it's entirely on you to calculate and document the carryover each year. I recommend creating a simple table showing: (1) your original excess contribution from 2022, (2) how much you've used in each subsequent year, and (3) how much remains available. This becomes especially important if you have carryovers from multiple years overlapping. Also, make sure you understand the order of deduction - you always deduct current year contributions first, then apply carryovers from the oldest year forward. So if you have carryovers from both 2022 and 2023, you'd use the 2022 carryover before touching the 2023 carryover.

0 coins

Prev1...953954955956957...5643Next