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I'm a tax preparer and see this confusion all the time. The software is programmed to be overly cautious to avoid missing potential credits/deductions. Form 8880 won't hurt your return - it's just calculating if you qualify for the Savers Credit based on retirement contributions and income. If you're filing last minute, honestly just pay the fee and file. It's not worth risking a late filing penalty which would be way more than $75. You can learn more about the retirement contribution patterns for next year to potentially qualify. The income limits are pretty low - $36,500 for single filers and $73,000 for married filing jointly for 2024.

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NebulaNomad

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This advice seems contradictory to what others are saying. If the form doesn't change the refund amount, why pay extra just to include it? Isn't that throwing money away? The IRS wouldn't penalize you for NOT claiming a credit you don't qualify for, right?

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Caden Turner

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You're absolutely right to question this. As a tax preparer, I should clarify - you're correct that the IRS won't penalize you for NOT claiming a credit you don't qualify for. My advice about "just paying the fee" was more about avoiding last-minute stress, but if the form truly isn't providing any benefit and you can remove it (like Oliver explained), that's definitely the better approach. The key is making sure you're accurately reporting your situation. If you didn't make retirement contributions or your income is above the threshold, then Form 8880 shouldn't be required at all. The software adding it unnecessarily is unfortunately common, especially this close to the deadline when people are rushing.

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I went through this exact same nightmare last year! The key thing to understand is that Form 8880 (Savers Credit) is triggered when you indicate you have retirement accounts, even if you didn't contribute. The software assumes you might qualify and forces the form. Here's what worked for me: Go back to the retirement account questions and be very specific. If you have a 401(k) but made ZERO contributions in 2024, make sure you clearly indicate $0 contributions. Don't just say "yes I have a 401(k)" - the software needs to know you contributed nothing. For TurboTax specifically, look for the section about "Retirement Plans" in your interview and edit those answers. You should be able to change it from having retirement contributions to having no contributions, which will remove Form 8880 entirely. The Savers Credit only applies if you contributed AND your income is below certain thresholds. If either condition isn't met, you don't need the form and shouldn't be forced into paid tiers. Don't let the software scare you with warnings about "missing credits" if you know you don't qualify!

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This is incredibly helpful! I think this might be exactly what happened to me. During the tax interview, when they asked about retirement accounts, I probably just said "yes" because I do have a 401(k) through work, but I completely forgot to specify that I didn't actually contribute anything to it this year. I'm going to go back and find that retirement section right now and make sure I'm clearly indicating $0 contributions. Hopefully that will finally get rid of this Form 8880 and let me use the free version. Thanks for the step-by-step guidance - this makes so much more sense than the vague error messages the software keeps giving me!

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Sean Murphy

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I went through this exact same confusion last year! The key thing to understand is that "four years of postsecondary education" for AOTC purposes is measured by academic credit hours, not calendar years. Here's what helped me figure it out: I contacted my school's financial aid office (not just the registrar) and asked them specifically about AOTC eligibility. They were able to pull up my record and tell me exactly how many "academic years" worth of credit I had completed based on their full-time equivalency. In your case, if you've been going part-time for several calendar years but haven't accumulated four full academic years worth of credits before 2016, you should still be eligible. Most schools consider 24-30 credit hours to be one academic year, so do the math based on your transcript. One thing that surprised me: even credits from community college or courses that didn't count toward my current major still counted toward the four-year limit. So make sure you're accounting for ALL college-level courses you've taken, not just ones at your current school or in your current program. The financial aid office should be able to give you a definitive answer since they deal with these calculations regularly for various aid programs.

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Liam Duke

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This is exactly the kind of detailed breakdown I was looking for! I never thought to contact the financial aid office specifically - I was just going to try calling the registrar. Do you happen to know if the financial aid office can also help determine which specific courses count toward the academic year calculation? I'm wondering about some prerequisite courses I took that were technically college-level but below 100-level numbering.

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Zoe Gonzalez

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Yes, the financial aid office should definitely be able to help with that! They typically have access to detailed course information and know which classes count toward various federal aid calculations. For prerequisite courses below 100-level, it depends on whether they're considered "college-level" courses. Generally, developmental or remedial courses (like basic math, English, or study skills) DO count toward your AOTC eligibility even if they don't count toward your degree requirements. This is actually specified in IRS Publication 970. However, if they're truly high school-level courses offered at the college (which is rare), they wouldn't count. The financial aid office will know exactly how your specific school categorizes each course since they have to make these determinations for Pell Grant and other federal aid programs that use similar criteria. I'd suggest bringing a copy of your unofficial transcript when you meet with them so they can go through it line by line. They can also explain how summer courses, intersession classes, and any transfer credits factor into the calculation.

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Ravi Sharma

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Just wanted to share my experience since I was in almost the exact same situation! I was taking classes part-time for about 6 calendar years but was worried I might have exceeded the 4-year AOTC limit. What really helped me was getting an official "Academic Standing Report" from my school's registrar office specifically for tax purposes. This document showed not just my total credit hours, but also broke it down by academic year equivalency according to their full-time standard (which was 30 credits per year at my school). Turns out even though I'd been enrolled for 6 calendar years, I had only completed about 3.1 academic years worth of credit by 2016, so I was still eligible! The key insight for me was that summer courses, part-time enrollment, and even semesters where I only took 1-2 classes all get factored into this calculation differently than I expected. One tip: when you contact your school, specifically ask for documentation "for federal tax credit eligibility" - they're familiar with these requests and can usually provide exactly what you need for your tax preparation. Good luck!

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Carmen Diaz

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This is super helpful! I'm in a very similar situation and didn't know about requesting an "Academic Standing Report" specifically for tax purposes. Quick question - did your school charge a fee for this type of report, or was it provided free of charge? Also, how long did it take them to prepare it? I'm trying to figure out my timeline for getting this documentation before I file my taxes.

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Melody Miles

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My school didn't charge anything for the Academic Standing Report when I requested it for tax purposes - I think they're used to these requests since so many students need documentation for various federal programs. It took about 3-5 business days to get it prepared, though this was during a non-peak time (mid-February). If you're filing close to tax deadlines, I'd recommend calling ahead and explaining that you need it for tax preparation - they might be able to expedite it. You could also ask if they can email you an unofficial version first while the official document is being prepared, just so you have the numbers to work with. Most schools are pretty accommodating when they understand it's for tax compliance purposes.

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Salim Nasir

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FYI for anyone interested in short selling - the tax reporting on your 1099-B can be a total nightmare. My broker reported my short sales in a really confusing way last year. Box 1a showed proceeds from the short sale (when I sold the borrowed shares), but the cost basis in Box 1e was reported as $0 since technically I hadn't purchased anything yet. Then when I closed the position months later, it showed up as a separate transaction with the purchase price as my cost basis. Made it look like I had a huge gain on the first transaction and then a completely separate transaction later. TurboTax couldn't handle it properly without manual adjustments.

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Hazel Garcia

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I ran into the same issue with my 1099-B! Had to manually combine the transactions to properly report the gain/loss. Did you find any tax software that handles this correctly? I spent hours fixing this last year.

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The 1099-B reporting issue you mentioned is exactly why I switched to FreeTaxUSA last year. It has a specific section for adjusting short sale transactions where you can manually link the opening and closing transactions together. You enter both the short sale date and the covering date, and it calculates the proper gain/loss and holding period. I also learned that some brokers will issue a corrected 1099-B if you contact them about short sale reporting errors. Schwab actually sent me an amended form after I pointed out that they had incorrectly split my short-against-the-box transactions across multiple tax lots. Worth checking with your broker before spending hours manually adjusting everything. One tip: keep detailed records of your short sale dates and covering dates separate from what the broker reports. The IRS matching system sometimes flags discrepancies when the 1099-B doesn't clearly show the complete short sale cycle.

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Amina Diop

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This is really helpful advice about FreeTaxUSA! I've been struggling with H&R Block's handling of my short positions. Quick question - when you manually link the opening and closing transactions in FreeTaxUSA, does it automatically handle the wash sale calculations if you have overlapping positions? I have several short sales that I closed and reopened within the 30-day window, and I'm worried about missing wash sale adjustments that could trigger an audit. Also, regarding keeping separate records - do you just use a simple spreadsheet or is there a specific format the IRS prefers if they ever ask for documentation of your short sale cycles?

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Jamal Harris

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is quarterly estimated tax payments. Since you're generating $13,500 in business income and will owe both income tax and self-employment tax on this, you might need to make quarterly payments to avoid underpayment penalties. The IRS generally expects you to pay taxes as you earn income, not just when you file your annual return. If you expect to owe $1,000 or more in taxes when you file, you should be making quarterly payments. For 2024, the deadlines are April 15, June 17, September 16, and January 15, 2025. You can calculate your estimated payments using Form 1040ES. Don't forget that self-employment tax is 15.3% on top of your regular income tax rate, so the total tax burden can be higher than people expect when they're used to just W-2 income. Setting aside about 25-30% of your cash sales in a separate savings account for taxes is a good rule of thumb. This way you won't be scrambling to come up with the money when quarterly payments are due or at tax time.

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This is really important advice that I wish I had known when I first started my side business! I learned about quarterly payments the hard way when I got hit with a penalty for underpayment even though I paid everything when I filed my return. One thing to add - if this is your first year with significant self-employment income, you might be able to use the "safe harbor" rule where you just pay 100% of last year's tax liability (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150,000) to avoid penalties, even if you end up owing more when you file. Also, don't forget that you can pay estimated taxes online through EFTPS or even by phone if you need to make a last-minute payment before a deadline. I keep reminders in my calendar for each quarterly due date so I don't forget!

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Another thing to consider is keeping a detailed log of your vintage clothing sales beyond just the money order deposits. Since you're selling at local markets, I'd recommend tracking which items you sold, what you paid for them originally (if you can remember/document), and any related expenses like booth fees, gas to get to markets, etc. The IRS likes to see that you're treating this as a legitimate business if you're claiming it as such. Having organized records showing your cost of goods sold, business mileage, and other expenses will help establish that this isn't just a hobby. Plus, these deductions can significantly reduce your taxable income. I'd also suggest taking photos of your inventory and keeping receipts for any clothing purchases you make specifically for resale. If you're sourcing from thrift stores, estate sales, or other places, those purchase receipts become your cost basis for calculating actual profit on each item sold. The money order deposits are just one piece of the puzzle - the real work is in documenting the entire business operation properly. Good luck with your vintage clothing business!

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Ava Garcia

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This is excellent advice about documenting the entire business operation! I'm just getting started with my own small business selling handmade items and hadn't thought about taking photos of inventory or keeping such detailed records of sourcing costs. One question - when you mention tracking what you originally paid for items, how do you handle situations where you bought things in bulk lots or at estate sales where you might have paid one price for a whole box of mixed items? Do you just estimate the cost basis for individual pieces, or is there a more systematic way to allocate those costs? Also, for someone just starting out like me, would you recommend setting up a separate business bank account right away, or is it okay to use personal accounts initially as long as you keep good records? I'm trying to balance doing things properly with not overcomplicating things while the income is still relatively small.

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Omar Hassan

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I went through this exact same situation two years ago! Filed as resident on F1 visa when I should have been nonresident. The good news is that the IRS generally doesn't penalize you for voluntary corrections, especially for residency status mistakes which are super common for international students. You definitely should amend using Form 1040X and file the correct 1040NR. The key is to do it proactively before they catch it. In my case, I actually ended up owing about $200 more because I had to give back some credits I wasn't eligible for as a nonresident, but it was way better than waiting and potentially facing penalties. One thing to check - make sure you look into any tax treaty benefits your country might have with the US. Some countries have special provisions for students that can actually reduce your tax liability. Also, if you had any scholarship income, the treatment might be different as a nonresident (sometimes better!). The whole process took about 8-10 weeks to get resolved, but the IRS sent me a letter confirming the adjustment and I paid the small difference. Much less stressful than I expected!

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Thank you so much for sharing your experience! This is really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the exact same thing. I'm feeling a lot less panicked now knowing that the IRS doesn't usually penalize voluntary corrections for residency mistakes. Can I ask what country you're from? I'm wondering if there might be treaty benefits I could look into. Also, did you handle the amendment yourself or did you end up getting help from a tax professional? The forms look pretty intimidating and I want to make sure I don't make another mistake! The 8-10 week timeline is helpful to know too - I was worried this might drag on for months and months.

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I'm dealing with this exact situation right now! Filed as a resident when I should have been nonresident (F1 visa, been in the US for 16 months). I was terrified about penalties but after reading everyone's experiences here, I feel much better about voluntarily correcting it. Quick question for those who have been through this - when you file the 1040X, do you need to include copies of your original return or just the amended pages? And should I send it certified mail or is regular mail okay? Also seeing all the mentions of tax treaties - I'm from South Korea, does anyone know if there are specific benefits for Korean students? My university's international office wasn't very helpful when I asked about this. Thanks to everyone sharing their experiences, it's so helpful to know I'm not the only one who made this mistake!

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