Single filer here making $71k with no dependents. I've been getting refunds around $1,900-2,200 the past few years, which after reading this thread I'm realizing might be too high. I contribute 6% to my 401k and take the standard deduction. I think I need to look at adjusting my W-4 because that's basically $175+ per month I could have in my paycheck instead of waiting for a refund. The "forced savings" argument makes sense, but I'd rather have control over that money throughout the year and put it in a high-yield savings account where it can at least earn some interest. Thanks for all the specific examples - it's really helpful to see the actual numbers from people in similar situations rather than just general advice about withholding!

Single filer making $64k here with no dependents. I've been getting refunds around $1,350-1,500 the past couple years, contributing 7% to my 401k with standard deduction. Reading through everyone's experiences has been super enlightening! I never really thought about the opportunity cost of large refunds until seeing the discussion about high-yield savings accounts and having that money available throughout the year. One thing I'm curious about - for those who adjusted their W-4 to reduce refunds, did you notice any difference in how you managed your monthly budget? I'm a bit worried that if I increase my take-home pay, I might just end up spending that extra money instead of saving it like I do when I get the lump sum refund. The "forced savings" aspect has been working for me, but I can see the appeal of earning interest on that money instead of giving the IRS a free loan. Also wondering if anyone has experience with how changing your W-4 mid-year affects things? I'm tempted to make an adjustment now but wasn't sure if it's better to wait until the start of a new tax year.

Make sure you keep your Medicaid documentation just in case they ask for proof later. Better safe than sorry!

This is actually a really common mistake! The IRS system can be confusing about healthcare coverage reporting. Since you have Medicaid, you're exempt from the marketplace insurance requirements. Just make sure when you refile that you select "had qualifying health coverage" or similar option for Medicaid instead of leaving it blank or checking marketplace coverage. Your Medicaid should count as minimum essential coverage so you shouldn't need any additional forms.

I had this same issue! The form where you list dependents (Form 1040) doesn't limit how many dependents you can claim. You just list them all in Part I of the dependent section. One thing though - are you sure you want to claim them? By claiming them as dependents, you might be messing up their ability to get certain tax credits or benefits that they'd qualify for otherwise. Have you checked if this could affect their situation negatively?

Great question! I went through this exact situation with my parents two years ago and can confirm you CAN claim both parents as dependents even though they're married and filed jointly. The key things to verify: 1. Each parent individually meets the gross income test (under $5,100 for 2025) 2. You provided more than 50% of their total support 3. They lived with you for the full year 4. They only filed their joint return to get a refund of withheld taxes From what you've described, it sounds like you meet all the criteria. The Social Security income likely won't count toward the gross income limit since it's typically not taxable at their income level. One tip: create a simple spreadsheet tracking all the support you provide (housing costs, utilities, food, medical, etc.) versus any support they provide themselves. This documentation will be invaluable if you're ever questioned about the dependency claims. Also, double-check that claiming them won't disqualify them from any credits or benefits they might be eligible for independently - sometimes the family saves more money overall by not claiming the dependents if they qualify for certain credits on their own return.

I went through this exact same situation when I switched to biweekly pay at my current job! The stress is totally real, but I can confirm what everyone else is saying - you're not actually paying more in taxes. What helped me get over the mental hurdle was realizing that the IRS doesn't even know how often you get paid. When you file your taxes, your W-2 just shows your total annual wages and total withholding for the year - there's literally no field for "pay frequency" anywhere on tax forms because it's completely irrelevant. I did the math that others have suggested (biweekly withholding × 26 vs. my old job's annual withholding) and found they were within $18 of each other over the entire year. That tiny difference is just rounding from the payroll systems, not any actual tax difference. The psychological adjustment is harder than the math! When you're used to seeing larger monthly amounts, those smaller biweekly checks can feel "wrong" even though they add up to the same thing. But your tax bracket is based on total annual income, period. Whether that income arrives in 12 chunks or 26 chunks doesn't change what bracket you're in or how much you ultimately owe. Your take-home probably looks different because you're mentally comparing a biweekly amount to what you remember from monthly checks, but mathematically you're in the exact same tax situation as before. The frequency is just different!

Hey Steven! I totally get your concern - I had the EXACT same worry when I switched from monthly to biweekly pay at my job about a year ago. I actually lost sleep over it for weeks thinking I was somehow getting screwed by the new pay schedule! The great news is that everyone here is absolutely right - your pay frequency has zero impact on your actual tax liability. Your tax bracket is determined by your total annual income, period. Whether you make $60k in 12 monthly chunks or 26 biweekly chunks, you're still making $60k for the year and will be in the exact same tax bracket. What's probably throwing you off (like it did me) is that the withholding amounts on each individual paycheck look different. This happens because payroll systems use different IRS withholding tables for different pay frequencies. So your biweekly checks might show different withholding percentages than your old monthly ones, but the annual total should be nearly identical. I did exactly what others suggested - took my biweekly tax withholding and multiplied by 26, then compared it to my previous job's annual withholding. The difference was only $31 for the ENTIRE year! That's basically just rounding differences in the payroll systems. The stress about finances with a new job is so real, but you can definitely cross this worry off your list. When you file taxes next year, the IRS only sees your total annual income and total withholding - they have no clue how often you got paid because it doesn't matter at all!

Just a thought - have u looked into medical credit cards like CareCredit? They sometimes offer no-interest financing for dental work if u pay it off during the promotional period. Doesn't help with taxes but might help with cash flow. I used it for my wisdom teeth removal last year.

Sorry you're dealing with this expensive dental bill! I went through something similar a few years ago. One thing that might help for future reference - some dentists offer significant discounts if you pay cash upfront rather than going through insurance. I saved about 30% on my crown by doing this, though I know that's not helpful for your current situation. For your tax question, everyone's right that the medical deduction likely won't help much at your income level. But here's something else to consider - if you're freelancing or have any 1099 income alongside your regular job, you might qualify for the self-employed health insurance deduction, which is above-the-line and doesn't require itemizing. It's a long shot but worth checking if any of your income comes from self-employment. Also, keep all your receipts from this year's medical/dental expenses. Even if they don't help this year, if you have more medical costs next year, having two years' worth might push you over the threshold where itemizing makes sense.