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I've dealt with this exact same issue! Had a client who got the LTR 3463C for their e-filed 941s, and it turned out to be exactly what others have mentioned - a disconnect between the IRS's electronic filing acceptance system and their signature verification process. The key thing to understand is that this isn't questioning whether your brother filed the forms (they clearly have them since they sent acceptance confirmations). It's just their outdated system flagging the submission for additional verification, especially common when you have mixed quarters like he does - some with payroll activity and some without. Tell your brother to stop stressing and just sign the declaration form and mail it back with a copy of his e-filing confirmations attached. I always recommend sending it certified mail so you have proof of delivery. The IRS will update their records to show proper signature verification and close the case within 4-6 weeks typically. This is purely administrative - no penalties, no audit risk, just bureaucratic box-checking. But definitely don't ignore it because unresolved signature verification issues can eventually be treated as unfiled returns down the road.
This is really helpful context! As someone new to dealing with IRS correspondence, I'm curious - when you say to attach copies of the e-filing confirmations, do you mean just the basic confirmation emails from the tax software, or are there specific documents we should include? Also, is there any particular way to format the cover letter when sending back the signed declaration, or do you just send the form by itself?
Good question! For the e-filing confirmations, include the main confirmation email from your tax software that shows the IRS accepted the submission - it usually has an acknowledgment number or electronic postmark. If you have any transmission reports or detailed confirmation receipts, those are helpful too. As for formatting, I typically recommend a simple cover letter that references the notice number (LTR 3463C) and states something like "Enclosed please find the signed declaration as requested in your notice dated [date]. Also enclosed are copies of electronic filing confirmations showing these forms were properly submitted and accepted by the IRS on [dates]." Keep it brief and professional. The most important thing is the certified mail - you want that green receipt showing the IRS received your response. I've seen too many cases where people sent regular mail and then had to deal with the IRS claiming they never received the signed declaration.
I went through this exact same situation last year with my consulting business! Got the LTR 3463C for Q2 and Q3 where I had zero payroll, even though I e-filed through FreeTaxUSA and had confirmation receipts. What I learned from calling the IRS (after waiting 3 hours on hold) is that their system sometimes flags quarters with zero wages for additional verification, especially when it's part of an irregular payroll pattern. The agent explained that the electronic signature was accepted for filing purposes, but they need the manual signature declaration to complete their internal verification process. I just signed the declaration form they sent, attached copies of my e-filing confirmations, and mailed it back certified mail. Got a letter about 6 weeks later confirming the matter was resolved. No penalties, no issues - just their bureaucratic process. Tell your brother to stop being stubborn and just send it back! It's literally a 5-minute task that will close this out completely. The alternative is potentially having this escalate into a much bigger headache down the road if the IRS decides to treat it as an unfiled return.
Thanks for sharing your experience with FreeTaxUSA! I'm curious - when you called the IRS and waited those 3 hours, did they give you any insight into why some businesses get these verification requests and others don't? My friend runs a similar consulting business with irregular payroll and has never gotten one of these letters, so I'm wondering if there's something specific that triggers their system to flag certain accounts for additional verification.
This has been such an enlightening thread! As someone who recently started paying attention to my finances, I'm shocked to learn that my actual tax burden is probably double what I thought it was. I always just looked at my federal withholding and thought "okay, that's what I pay in taxes" - completely ignoring state taxes, property taxes, sales taxes, and all these hidden embedded taxes in everything we buy. The point about the system being deliberately fragmented really resonates. It's like they've designed it so you can never see the full picture unless you actively work to piece it together. No wonder most people (myself included until now) have no idea what they're actually paying. I'm definitely going to start tracking all my taxes systematically like some of you have done. The HSA triple-tax advantage sounds amazing - I had no idea it avoided federal, state, AND payroll taxes. That alone could make a significant difference in my total burden. Thanks everyone for sharing real numbers and practical strategies. This conversation has been more valuable than any personal finance class I've ever taken. Time to do some serious research on my own tax situation!
@Ava Rodriguez I m'in the exact same boat as you! Just started really paying attention to my finances this year and this thread has been a total wake-up call. Like you, I was only looking at that federal withholding line on my paystub and thinking that was my tax rate. Finding out about all these other taxes - especially the embedded ones in everything we buy - feels like discovering a whole hidden layer of the economy I never knew existed. What really gets me is how they ve'made it so complicated that you almost need a degree in accounting just to figure out what you re'actually paying your own government. The fragmentation definitely seems intentional - spread it across so many different categories and timing that most people never see the big picture. I m'planning to start that systematic tracking approach too. The idea of setting up a separate account for property taxes when (I eventually buy makes) so much sense - at least then you can see your true take-home after ALL taxes instead of getting surprised by quarterly bills. And yeah, definitely looking into maxing out an HSA if it really does avoid all those different tax types. Thanks for adding to this conversation - it s'reassuring to know others are just discovering this stuff too and I m'not the only one who felt completely in the dark about how taxes really work!
As a tax professional who's worked with the IRS for over a decade, I can confirm that most Americans are shocked when they see their true total tax burden calculated properly. The fragmentation discussed here is absolutely real - it's much easier for politicians to raise taxes when they're spread across dozens of different categories that people don't connect to their overall burden. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is how tax policy changes can dramatically shift your burden between categories. For example, the 2017 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act lowered federal rates but capped state and local tax deductions, which effectively raised taxes for many people in high-tax states even though their federal rate went down. Also worth noting: the "average" statistics you see quoted (like 27-30% total burden) are heavily skewed by high earners. For typical middle-class families making $50-80k, the real number including ALL taxes is usually closer to 32-38% depending on location. And if you're a homeowner in a high-property-tax area, it can easily hit 40%+ as several people have shared. For those just discovering this, don't get discouraged - knowledge is power. Understanding your true tax situation is the first step toward making informed decisions about where to live, how to structure your savings, and what political candidates actually represent your financial interests.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned that could be really helpful is considering whether you need to adjust your W-4 withholdings now that you're receiving these regular reimbursements from your ex. Since you're getting $340+ per month in reimbursements that are essentially tax-free (they're just making you whole for expenses that weren't fully yours), this is like getting extra take-home pay compared to your pre-divorce situation. You might be able to reduce your federal tax withholding slightly since less of your gross income is effectively going toward medical expenses. I made this adjustment after my divorce and it helped smooth out my monthly cash flow. Instead of waiting for a big tax refund, I get a little more in each paycheck which helps offset the timing gap between when I pay medical expenses and when I get reimbursed. Obviously run this by a tax professional first, but it's worth considering as part of your overall post-divorce financial planning. The HSA situation you described is just one piece of how your tax picture has probably changed.
This is a really insightful point about adjusting withholdings that I hadn't considered! You're right that receiving regular reimbursements effectively increases your take-home pay since that money isn't taxable. I've been so focused on the HSA mechanics that I didn't think about the broader cash flow implications. The timing aspect you mentioned is especially relevant - there's always that gap between when I pay the medical expenses upfront and when I get reimbursed, so having slightly more in each paycheck would definitely help smooth that out. Plus, getting the money throughout the year instead of waiting for a big refund makes a lot more sense for managing monthly expenses. I'm curious though - when you adjusted your withholdings, did you base it on an average monthly reimbursement amount, or did you try to account for the seasonal variation in medical expenses? I notice our medical costs tend to spike during flu season and summer sports injuries, so the reimbursement amounts aren't totally consistent month to month. Definitely going to discuss this with my tax preparer when I see them next month. Thanks for bringing up this aspect of post-divorce financial planning!
I based my withholding adjustment on a conservative estimate of my average monthly reimbursements rather than trying to account for seasonal variations. Since medical expenses can be unpredictable (emergency room visits, unexpected prescriptions, etc.), I didn't want to over-adjust and end up owing taxes at year-end. What I did was look at the previous year's total reimbursements, divided by 12 to get a monthly average, then reduced that by about 20% to be safe. So if I received $3,000 in reimbursements annually, I calculated the withholding adjustment based on about $200 per month rather than the full $250 average. This approach has worked well because during high-expense months (like when my daughter broke her wrist last summer), the extra reimbursements feel like a bonus rather than something I'm depending on to make ends meet. And during low-expense months, I'm not short on cash because I wasn't counting on reimbursements that didn't materialize. The key is remembering that these reimbursements aren't really "income" - they're just corrections to expenses you shouldn't have paid in full. So being conservative with the withholding adjustment protects you from treating temporary cash flow improvements as permanent income changes.
This entire thread has been incredibly valuable! I'm dealing with a very similar situation post-divorce and was completely confused about HSA rules. Reading through everyone's experiences and solutions has given me so much clarity. I especially appreciate the practical approaches people have shared - the separate checking account method, monthly reconciliation emails, and the detailed spreadsheet tracking. These aren't just theoretical solutions but real-world systems that people have actually implemented successfully. One question I have that I don't think was fully addressed: Has anyone dealt with orthodontic expenses that span multiple years? My daughter just started braces with a payment plan that runs for 24 months, and I'm wondering how to handle the HSA usage and reimbursement tracking when it's essentially the same "expense" spread across two years with my ex responsible for 40% of each monthly payment. Should I treat each monthly payment as a separate medical expense for HSA and reimbursement purposes, or is there a better way to handle these extended treatment costs? The payment schedule doesn't align neatly with when the actual orthodontic work is being done. Thanks again to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread should be bookmarked by anyone going through divorce with HSAs involved!
Great question about orthodontic payments! I dealt with a similar situation when my son got braces two years ago. I treated each monthly orthodontic payment as a separate medical expense for both HSA and reimbursement tracking purposes, which ended up working really well. Here's what I did: Each month when the orthodontic payment was due, I paid it from my HSA card, then immediately requested my ex's portion (same 40% in my case). In my tracking spreadsheet, I created separate rows for each monthly payment with the same "service description" but different dates. This made it crystal clear that each payment was for ongoing orthodontic treatment. The advantage of this approach is that it keeps your monthly reconciliation with your ex consistent - they're paying 40% of actual expenses incurred each month rather than trying to calculate their portion of some abstract "total treatment cost." It also simplifies your HSA record-keeping since each payment corresponds to a specific qualified medical expense on a specific date. One tip: I included a note in my monthly reconciliation emails to my ex explaining that the orthodontic payments would continue for X number of months so there were no surprises. This prevented any confusion about why the same type of expense kept appearing month after month. The fact that the payment schedule doesn't align with actual orthodontic work isn't a problem for HSA purposes - what matters is that you're paying qualified medical expenses as they're billed, regardless of when the underlying treatment occurs.
I completely understand the stress you're going through right now! I received Form 9143 about 6 months ago and felt the exact same panic when I saw that envelope from the IRS in my mailbox. Here's what I learned from my experience: Form 9143 is actually good news in disguise. It means the IRS has reviewed your entire tax return and everything else looks correct - they literally just need your signature to complete processing. Think of it as your return being "on hold" rather than rejected. Here's exactly what you need to do: 1. Sign BOTH documents - the Form 9143 itself AND your original 1040 return in the taxpayer signature line 2. Use today's date when signing (not your original filing date from months ago) 3. Use blue or black ink and make your signature clear and legible 4. Return everything they sent back to you - the 9143, your 1040, and any attached schedules 5. DO NOT send new copies of W-2s or other supporting documents unless they specifically ask for them I cannot stress enough how important it is to send this back via certified mail with return receipt requested. Yes, it costs a few extra dollars, but it gives you proof of delivery which is absolutely crucial with IRS correspondence. I learned this from reading horror stories of people whose responses got "lost" in regular mail. After I sent mine back, my refund was processed in about 2.5 weeks. You won't get any confirmation that they received your corrected documents - the refund will just show up once they complete processing. Make copies of everything before you send it back, and try not to overthink this. You're literally just completing one missing administrative step so they can release your refund. You've got this!
I went through this exact same situation about 4 months ago and completely understand the panic! Here's what I learned that might help ease your stress: Form 9143 is actually a pretty routine request - it just means they need your signature to complete processing your return. The good news is that everything else on your return checked out fine, which is why they're not asking for additional documentation. Here's exactly what you need to do: 1. Sign BOTH the Form 9143 AND your original 1040 return using today's date (not your original filing date) 2. Use blue or black ink and make sure your signature is clear and matches your normal signature 3. Return everything they sent back to you - don't add new W-2s or other documents unless specifically requested 4. Send it back via certified mail with return receipt for tracking (trust me, it's worth the extra cost) The key thing that helped me was understanding that this isn't a rejection - your return is basically "paused" waiting for your signature. Once you send it back, they resume processing from where they left off. I didn't get any confirmation after sending back my signed forms - my refund just showed up about 3 weeks later. The certified mail receipt was my only proof they received it, which gave me peace of mind during the waiting period. Keep copies of everything you send back, and don't overthink it. You're just completing one missing step so they can finalize your refund!
Lucas Turner
Another thing to keep in mind is the timing of when you need to send the 1099-NEC forms. You have to get them to your contractor by January 31st and file copies with the IRS by the same date (or February 28th if filing by paper). Since you mentioned this is your first year with contractors, I'd recommend getting familiar with the process now rather than scrambling in January. You can actually prepare the forms in December once you have all your payment totals and the contractor's W-9 info. The IRS website has fillable PDF forms, or you can use tax software that handles 1099s. One more tip - make sure to keep copies of everything for your records. The IRS can ask for backup documentation years later, so having those payment records, W-9s, and proof of mailing/electronic filing will save you if they ever have questions about your contractor payments.
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Ava Harris
Just to add to all this great advice - I made the mistake of assuming Cash App would handle everything my first year too. Got a nasty letter from the IRS about missing 1099s! One thing that really helped me was setting up a separate business account on Cash App just for contractor payments. This makes it SO much easier to track business vs personal transactions when tax time comes around. You can still use your personal account for regular stuff, but having that separation saved me hours of sorting through transactions. Also, pro tip: start a simple spreadsheet right now with columns for date, contractor name, amount, and description of work. Update it every time you make a payment. Takes 30 seconds but will make preparing those 1099s in January a breeze instead of trying to reconstruct everything from your transaction history. Trust me on this one!
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢This is exactly what I needed to hear! Setting up a separate business account is such a smart idea - I've been mixing everything in my personal Cash App and it's already getting confusing trying to figure out which payments were for business. The spreadsheet tip is gold too. I'm definitely going to start that today before I forget any more details about the work that was done. Better late than never, right? Do you think it's worth going back through my transaction history to fill in the earlier payments from this year, or should I just start fresh from now and try to piece together the old stuff later? Also, that IRS letter situation sounds terrifying! How did you end up resolving that? I really don't want to deal with that kind of stress next year.
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