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Another thing to consider is state tax treatment of these expenses. Some states follow federal rules for deductibility while others have their own rules. In California, for example, there are certain expenses that are fully deductible for state tax purposes but limited for federal. Since you mentioned meals being 50% deductible federally, you should check if your state has different rules. Some states allow 100% deduction for business meals in certain circumstances. This adds another layer of complexity to tracking non-deductible vs. deductible expenses!
Do you have to maintain separate sets of books for federal vs state in that case? That sounds like a nightmare for accounting.
Great question about state vs federal differences! You don't necessarily need separate books, but you do need to track the differences for tax purposes. Most accounting software can handle this with tax adjustments or separate tax categories. For partnerships, the state-specific differences typically get handled at the partner level when they file their individual returns, since partnerships are pass-through entities. The partnership return (1065) reports the federal treatment, and then each partner makes state adjustments on their personal returns if needed. However, you should definitely track these differences in your records so you can provide accurate K-1s to your partners. They'll need to know about any state-specific adjustments when they prepare their individual returns. A good CPA familiar with your state's rules can help set up a system that captures both federal and state treatment without duplicating your entire bookkeeping system.
This is really helpful information! I'm new to partnership taxation and had no idea about the state vs federal complexity. Our partnership operates in multiple states, so I'm wondering - do we need to track these differences for each state we operate in, or just our home state? And when you mention providing accurate K-1s, are there specific lines on the K-1 where these state adjustments get reported, or is it more of a supplemental information thing that partners use when filing their individual returns?
The photography business loss might raise some red flags since the expenses are much higher than the income. Make sure you can prove you're trying to make a profit. Take classes to improve skills, have a business plan showing projected path to profitability, advertise your services, maintain separate business accounts, etc. I've been running a photography business for years and had losses the first two years. As long as you treat it like a serious business and not a hobby, you should be fine claiming the losses.
Doesn't the photography business need to show a profit in 3 out of 5 years to avoid being classified as a hobby? That's what my accountant told me for my woodworking business that's been operating at a loss.
That's a common misconception. The "3 out of 5 years" rule is actually a safe harbor provision, not a requirement. If you DO show profit in 3 out of 5 years, the IRS generally presumes it's a business (for most activities; horse racing has a different timeframe). But failing to meet that doesn't automatically make it a hobby. It just means you don't get that automatic presumption. The IRS will then look at all nine factors they consider, including: how professionally you run the operation, your expertise, time and effort invested, assets expected to appreciate, success in similar activities, your history of income/losses, occasional profits, your financial status, and personal pleasure/recreation elements. Many legitimate businesses take more than 2 years to become profitable. As long as you can demonstrate genuine business intent and efforts to make it profitable, you can still deduct the losses even without meeting the 3-in-5 test.
Great question! Yes, you'll definitely need separate Schedule C forms for each business. The IRS considers these distinct activities - your jewelry business, delivery work, and photography are all different types of operations with different income streams and expense categories. For your photography business showing a loss, you can absolutely deduct those losses against your other income as long as you're operating it as a legitimate business (not a hobby). The key is demonstrating profit motive - keep records of your business plan, marketing efforts, time invested, and steps you're taking to improve profitability. One thing to watch out for: with $19k in equipment expenses against $6.8k income, make sure you're properly depreciating larger equipment purchases rather than deducting them all in one year. Camera gear, lighting equipment, etc. typically need to be depreciated over several years unless you elect Section 179 or bonus depreciation. Also consider whether some of those equipment purchases might qualify for the Section 179 deduction, which could let you deduct up to $1,160,000 in qualifying business equipment in the year you placed it in service (for 2024). This could be beneficial for your photography business if the equipment qualifies.
This is really helpful info about the equipment depreciation! I'm actually in a similar situation with my small videography business where I bought a lot of gear upfront. Can you clarify when you'd want to use Section 179 vs regular depreciation? Is there a downside to taking the full deduction in year one if you qualify?
Great question about the UTMA/UGMA tax implications! One important detail that hasn't been fully addressed yet is the interaction between the custodian's role and tax reporting responsibilities. As the custodian, you're required to file tax returns for your nephew if his unearned income exceeds certain thresholds, but the taxes are paid from his funds, not yours. For 2025, if his unearned income is over $1,250, you'll need to file Form 1040 for him. If it's between $1,250-$2,500, it's taxed at his rate (likely 0% or 10%). Above $2,500, the kiddie tax kicks in at your marginal rate. One strategy many families use is to focus on tax-loss harvesting within the UTMA account in the years leading up to college. If you have any losing positions, realizing those losses can offset gains and reduce the overall tax burden when you do need to liquidate assets for education expenses. Also worth noting - while you mentioned your state's age of majority is 21, make sure you understand exactly when control transfers. Some states have different rules for different types of accounts, and knowing the precise timeline helps with planning both the education funding and the eventual transition of control to your nephew.
This is really comprehensive advice about the tax reporting requirements! I'm curious about the tax-loss harvesting strategy you mentioned - is there a specific time of year that's best to realize losses in a UTMA account, or should it be done continuously throughout the year? Also, when you mention that some states have different rules for when control transfers, how can I verify the exact rules for my state? I want to make sure I'm planning correctly for when my nephew will gain full control of the account.
This is such a comprehensive discussion! As someone who went through a similar situation with my daughter's UTMA account, I want to add one more perspective that might be helpful. One thing that really caught me off guard was how the UTMA withdrawals affected our state tax situation differently than federal. Our state has its own version of the kiddie tax with slightly different thresholds, and it also treats custodial account withdrawals differently for state college savings tax credits. I ended up owing more in state taxes than I had planned for because I only calculated the federal impact. Also, regarding the financial aid timing strategies mentioned earlier - while spending down UTMA assets before filing FAFSA can help, be careful about the verification process. Some schools require additional documentation during financial aid verification, and if there are large unexplained changes in asset levels between FAFSA filings, they may ask for detailed explanations of where the money went. My recommendation would be to model out several scenarios: keeping money in UTMA vs. transferring to 529 vs. spending down strategically, and factor in both the tax implications AND the financial aid impact. The "best" choice really depends on your family's specific tax bracket, the timeline until college, and whether you're likely to qualify for need-based aid. Don't forget to also consider your nephew's potential earnings from summer jobs, as that can push him into higher tax brackets sooner than expected.
Anyone know if TurboTax handles K-1 amendments easily? I'm in a similar situation as OP but I used TurboTax to file originally.
Hey Nathan! Don't stress too much about this - it's actually a pretty common scenario, especially with ETFs like $USO that are structured as partnerships. Just to add to what others have said: when you originally reported $USO on Form 8949, you were treating it like a regular stock sale. But since $USO is actually a partnership, you need to report your share of the partnership's activities via the K-1 instead. The good news is that for most people with small positions in $USO, the K-1 amounts are usually minimal. Look at the dollar amounts in the boxes - if they're small (like under $50 total), the impact on your taxes will be very small. One thing to keep in mind: when you file your amended return, you'll want to remove the $USO transactions from your original Form 8949 and instead report the K-1 information on the appropriate lines of your 1040. The K-1 will show the "correct" way to report your $USO investment. You're being responsible by wanting to handle this properly - many people just ignore K-1s for small amounts, but it sounds like you want to do things right!
Amaya Watson
Wanted to add a reminder about quarterly estimated tax payments since you're self-employed! If you expect to owe more than $1,000 in taxes for the year, you're supposed to make quarterly payments to avoid penalties. I learned this the hard way my first year as a freelancer and got hit with a $430 underpayment penalty. Now I set aside 30% of each payment I receive into a separate savings account and make my quarterly payments from there.
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Grant Vikers
β’The quarterly tax thing tripped me up too! Do you just divide your previous year's tax liability by 4 and pay that amount each quarter? I've been trying to estimate based on my current income but it fluctuates so much that I'm never sure if I'm paying enough.
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Jibriel Kohn
Great question about quarterly payments! There are actually two safe harbor rules you can use to avoid penalties: 1. Pay at least 100% of last year's total tax liability (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150k) 2. Pay at least 90% of the current year's tax liability Most people find option #1 easier since you know exactly what you owe. Just take last year's total tax (line 24 of your Form 1040) and divide by 4. Even if you end up making more money this year, you won't get penalized as long as you meet the 100% threshold. For your fluctuating income situation, I'd recommend the prior year method for your quarterly payments, then if you have a really good year, just set aside extra money throughout the year for the final balance due in April. Also remember that if you had zero tax liability last year, you don't need to make quarterly payments at all (though you might still want to for cash flow purposes).
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Anastasia Smirnova
β’This is really helpful! I'm new to being self-employed and had no idea about the safe harbor rules. Just to clarify - when you say "total tax liability" do you mean just the federal income tax amount, or does that include self-employment tax too? I want to make sure I'm calculating the right base amount for my quarterly payments. Also, if I didn't file taxes last year because I was a W-2 employee, should I just estimate based on what I think I'll owe this year?
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