IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

I went through this exact situation last year and wanted to share what I learned! You're absolutely right that this is essentially an online garage sale situation, not a business. The $600 threshold is correct - that's why they asked for your SSN verification. You'll likely receive a 1099-K, but don't panic! The key thing to remember is that you're only taxed on actual profit, not the gross sales amount. Since you're selling personal clothing items for less than you originally paid (which is almost always the case with used clothes), you won't owe taxes on this income. When you get the 1099-K, you'll report it in TurboTax, but then you'll also enter your cost basis (what you originally paid for the items) to show there was no taxable gain. Don't include the shipping fees in your taxable calculation - those are just pass-through costs. Focus on the actual item sale prices versus what you originally paid. Even without receipts, you can make reasonable estimates of your original purchase prices. A vintage band t-shirt you sold for $25 probably cost you $15-30 originally, a jacket you sold for $40 might have cost $60-80 new, etc. The IRS accepts reasonable estimates for personal items. The most important thing is NOT to just report the full $815 and pay taxes on it - that would mean paying taxes on money that isn't actually taxable income!

0 coins

This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm in a similar situation and was getting overwhelmed by all the conflicting information online. Quick question - when you say "reasonable estimates" for original purchase prices, do you have any tips for how to approach that? Like, should I err on the conservative side or try to be as accurate as possible to my actual memory of what I paid? I sold mostly thrift store finds that I then resold, so some items I only paid $5-10 for originally but sold for $20-30.

0 coins

Yara Haddad

•

For thrift store finds, you should definitely be honest about what you actually paid! If you bought something at a thrift store for $5 and sold it for $25, that $20 difference would actually be taxable income since you made a real profit. The "personal items sold at a loss" rule applies when you're selling things you bought for personal use at retail prices. Thrift flipping is different - that's more like a side business activity where you're buying items specifically to resell them for profit. You might need to handle those sales differently in TurboTax, possibly as casual business income rather than personal item sales. The good news is that with thrift items, you do have a clear cost basis (what you paid), so the profit calculation is straightforward. Just be accurate about your actual purchase prices - don't inflate them to avoid taxes, as that could cause problems if you're ever audited.

0 coins

Luca Greco

•

I went through this exact situation last year! The $600 threshold is correct - you'll likely get a 1099-K, but don't worry about it. Since you're selling personal clothing items that you originally bought for your own use, this is treated like a garage sale for tax purposes. The key thing is that you only pay taxes on actual profit, not the full $815. Since you almost certainly paid more for these clothes originally than what you sold them for, you won't owe any taxes on this income. When you file with TurboTax and enter the 1099-K, make sure to select that these were personal items (not business inventory). Then you'll enter your cost basis - reasonable estimates of what you originally paid for each item or category of items. A vintage band t-shirt you sold for $20 probably cost you $25-40 originally, jackets you sold for $35 might have cost $60-80 new, etc. Also, don't include the shipping costs in your profit calculation - those are pass-through expenses that buyers paid to cover actual shipping, not part of your sales income. The most important thing is to NOT just report the full $815 as taxable income - that would mean paying unnecessary taxes on what is essentially a loss from selling your personal belongings!

0 coins

Taylor Chen

•

This is really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing! I'm curious about one detail though - when you estimated your original purchase prices, did you keep any kind of record or documentation of those estimates? I'm wondering if I should write down my reasoning for each estimate (like "vintage band tee sold for $25, estimated original cost $35 based on typical concert merch prices from that era") just in case I ever need to explain my calculations later. Or is that being overly cautious?

0 coins

Romeo Quest

•

I went through this exact decision process about 18 months ago when buying my home. After consulting with both my CPA and attorney, I decided against putting my primary residence in my LLC name, and I'm glad I did. The main factors that swayed me were: 1) Loss of the primary residence capital gains exclusion - this alone could cost you hundreds of thousands in taxes when you sell 2) Mortgage rates and terms are significantly worse for commercial/business property loans 3) The complexity of calculating fair market rent to yourself creates ongoing compliance headaches 4) Home office deduction works the same whether you own personally or through business One thing I did do was get an umbrella insurance policy instead, which gives me excellent liability protection for a fraction of the cost and complexity. For around $400/year, I have $2M in additional liability coverage that protects all my assets including my business. Unless you're in an extremely high-risk profession where you expect frequent lawsuits, the tax downsides of business ownership for a primary residence far outweigh any potential benefits. Save the LLC structure for actual investment properties where it makes more sense.

0 coins

This is really helpful perspective! I'm curious about the umbrella insurance route you mentioned. Did you have to disclose your LLC business activities to get coverage, and does it actually protect your business assets if there's a lawsuit related to your home? I've been worried about liability separation between personal and business assets, but maybe I'm overthinking the risk level for IT consulting work.

0 coins

Raj Gupta

•

@c7b7be898372 Yes, I did disclose my LLC and IT consulting activities when getting the umbrella policy - full transparency is important to avoid coverage issues later. The umbrella policy protects me personally, which includes protection from lawsuits that could target both personal and business assets. For IT consulting specifically, the liability risk is relatively low compared to professions like construction or medical services. Most of our risk comes from data breaches or professional errors, which are better addressed through professional liability/E&O insurance for the business rather than complex property ownership structures. The umbrella policy covers things like someone getting injured at your home, dog bites, accidents you cause, etc. - the types of personal liability that people worry about when considering LLC ownership of their residence. It's much cleaner than the tax mess of business-owned personal property. I also maintain separate professional liability insurance for my consulting work, which covers business-related claims. This two-layer approach (umbrella for personal, E&O for business) gives me comprehensive protection without the tax complications.

0 coins

Rajan Walker

•

I appreciate everyone's detailed responses here - this has been incredibly enlightening! As someone who's been managing payroll taxes and business compliance for my LLC, I was definitely underestimating the complexity that business-owned residential property would add. The point about losing the capital gains exclusion really hit home. In my area, home values have appreciated significantly, so giving up that $250K exclusion could literally cost me six figures down the road. That alone makes this a non-starter. I'm also realizing that my initial assumption about "better tax write-offs" was probably based on outdated or incomplete information. If the home office deduction works the same either way, and I'd have to pay myself fair market rent (creating taxable income for the business), it sounds like I'd actually end up paying MORE in taxes, not less. Think I'll stick with personal ownership and look into that umbrella insurance approach that was mentioned. Getting better liability protection for $400/year versus creating a tax nightmare seems like a no-brainer. Thanks for saving me from what would have been a very expensive mistake! Sometimes the "clever" tax strategy isn't actually clever at all.

0 coins

Aaliyah Reed

•

This whole thread has been such a wake-up call! I was actually leaning toward the LLC route myself before reading all these responses. The fair market rent requirement really caught my attention - I hadn't even considered that I'd essentially be paying rent to myself and creating taxable income for my business. That seems like it would completely negate any potential tax benefits. The umbrella insurance alternative sounds much more practical. I'm wondering though - for those who went that route, did you need to get quotes from multiple insurers? I imagine coverage and rates probably vary quite a bit depending on your specific business activities and location.

0 coins

Darcy Moore

•

Great question! I went through this exact situation when I purchased my duplex three years ago. The key thing to understand is that you'll be treating this as a mixed-use property - part personal residence, part rental business. For mortgage interest deductions, you'll allocate based on the percentage of the property used for each purpose (usually square footage). So if each unit is equal, 50% of your mortgage interest goes on Schedule A (subject to the $750k loan limit) and 50% goes on Schedule E as a rental expense (no limit). Don't forget about depreciation on the rental portion - that's a major tax benefit! You can depreciate 50% of the property's basis (excluding land) over 27.5 years. Also, make sure to track all expenses separately: utilities, maintenance, insurance, etc. The rental portion expenses are fully deductible against rental income. One tip: keep detailed records of your square footage calculations and any improvements made to each unit. The IRS may want to see your allocation method if audited. A simple floor plan with measurements works great for documentation. Since you're in the 35% bracket, the rental deductions will provide significant tax savings. Just remember that when you eventually sell, you'll have depreciation recapture on the rental portion and can only use the primary residence exclusion on your half.

0 coins

Ava Martinez

•

This is super helpful, thank you! I'm curious about the depreciation aspect you mentioned - when you say "depreciation recapture," does that mean I'll have to pay back all the depreciation I claimed over the years when I sell? And is there any way to avoid or minimize that tax hit? Also, for tracking expenses, do you recommend any specific apps or software that make it easier to categorize and allocate expenses between personal and rental use? I want to make sure I'm documenting everything properly from day one.

0 coins

Yes, depreciation recapture means you'll pay taxes on the depreciation you claimed when you sell - it's taxed at a maximum rate of 25% (vs regular capital gains rates). There's no way to completely avoid it, but you can do a 1031 exchange to defer it by rolling the proceeds into another investment property. For expense tracking, I highly recommend Stessa - it's free and designed specifically for rental properties. It connects to your bank accounts, automatically categorizes expenses, and has built-in allocation features for mixed-use properties like duplexes. You can set it to automatically split recurring expenses 50/50 or whatever percentage you determine. Another good option is Rentals.com if you want something simpler, or QuickBooks Self-Employed if you prefer more robust accounting features. The key is picking one system and being consistent from day one - trying to recreate records later is a nightmare!

0 coins

One thing I want to emphasize that hasn't been fully covered is the importance of establishing your allocation method from day one and being consistent with it throughout ownership. The IRS allows several reasonable methods - square footage is most common, but you could also use number of rooms, fair rental value, or even assessed value if the units are significantly different. Whatever method you choose, document it thoroughly and apply it consistently to ALL shared expenses - not just mortgage interest and property taxes. This includes insurance, utilities (if shared meters), exterior maintenance, landscaping, driveway repairs, etc. Also, since you're in the 35% tax bracket, consider the timing of major repairs and improvements. Repairs to the rental unit are immediately deductible, while improvements must be depreciated over time. If you're doing work that affects both units (like a new roof), that gets allocated between Schedule A and Schedule E based your established percentage. One last tip: if you're handy and do maintenance work yourself, you can't deduct your labor on the rental portion, but you can deduct all materials and supplies at their full cost. Keep those receipts organized by unit from the start!

0 coins

This is exactly the kind of detailed guidance I was hoping to find! The point about being consistent with allocation methods from day one is so important - I can see how changing methods later could create problems with the IRS. Quick question about the repair vs. improvement distinction you mentioned: if I replace a water heater that serves both units, would that be considered a repair or improvement? And would the entire cost get allocated between the units, or could part of it be attributed to one unit specifically if that's where the old one was located? I'm definitely going to start documenting everything meticulously from the purchase. Thanks for the practical advice about keeping receipts organized by unit - that seems like such a simple thing but probably saves huge headaches later!

0 coins

Lim Wong

•

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! My husband had job interviews with two different companies last fall, and both reimbursed him for travel expenses. One company handled it correctly and didn't issue any tax forms, but the other one just sent us a 1099-MISC for $890. Reading through all these responses has been super helpful. I think I'm going to try calling their accounting department first to see if they'll correct it, but if not, the approach of reporting it on Schedule 1 and then taking the offsetting deduction with documentation seems like the way to go. One thing I'm wondering though - since this was for a job in the same field my husband currently works in, would these expenses potentially qualify as job search expenses once the miscellaneous deduction suspension ends in 2026? Or is the reimbursement/offsetting deduction approach always the better way to handle it regardless of the job search deduction rules? Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - it's really reassuring to know this isn't just us dealing with this confusing situation!

0 coins

Harper Hill

•

Great question about the job search expenses! Even when the miscellaneous deduction suspension ends in 2026, the reimbursement/offsetting deduction approach is still going to be better for your situation. Here's why: Job search expenses as miscellaneous deductions are subject to the 2% AGI threshold, meaning you can only deduct the amount that exceeds 2% of your adjusted gross income. So if your AGI is $50,000, you'd need more than $1,000 in job search expenses to get any benefit. With only $890, you probably wouldn't clear that threshold. The offsetting deduction approach treats the reimbursement as what it actually is - not income at all - rather than trying to work around the tax code's treatment of job search costs. You get to offset 100% of the 1099-MISC amount dollar-for-dollar, regardless of your AGI. Plus, with the reimbursement approach, you're not dependent on itemizing deductions (which you'd need to do to claim job search expenses). You can still take the standard deduction and use Schedule 1 for the offsetting adjustment. Definitely try the accounting department first - you might get lucky like some others have! But if not, you've got a solid backup plan that should work smoothly.

0 coins

Riya Sharma

•

I just went through almost this exact scenario last month! The company initially refused to correct the 1099-MISC, but I didn't give up. Here's what finally worked: I escalated beyond the accounting department and reached out to their tax department (if they have one) or the CFO's office directly. I sent a polite but detailed email explaining that issuing a 1099-MISC for expense reimbursements creates unnecessary tax complications for both parties and could potentially expose them to issues if the IRS questions their reporting practices. I included copies of all my receipts showing the expenses were legitimate business costs they reimbursed, not compensation. The key was framing it as helping them avoid potential compliance issues rather than just asking for a favor. It took about two weeks, but they ended up issuing a corrected 1099-MISC showing $0 and sent me a letter confirming the correction. Sometimes persistence pays off, especially when you approach it from a business/compliance angle rather than just personal inconvenience. If that doesn't work though, all the advice here about the Schedule 1 offsetting deduction is spot-on. Just wanted to share that companies can sometimes be convinced to do the right thing if you approach it strategically!

0 coins

Rachel Tao

•

This is such a smart approach! I never would have thought to frame it as a compliance issue for them rather than just my personal tax problem. The idea of reaching out to the CFO's office is brilliant too - they're probably more aware of the tax implications than regular accounting staff. I'm curious, when you sent that email, did you mention any specific IRS guidance or regulations about expense reimbursements? I'm wondering if citing something official might make the request more compelling. Also, about how long did you give them to respond before following up? Thanks for sharing this strategy - it gives me hope that I might be able to get this resolved at the source instead of having to deal with all the Schedule 1 complications!

0 coins

Nathan Kim

•

Has anyone considered that the type of YouTube channel might matter? I have a gaming channel with income from both ads and gaming sponsorships. My tax preparer said the sponsorships are definitely Schedule C, but put the ad revenue on Schedule E since they're technically royalties from my existing content. Been doing it this way for 3 years with no issues.

0 coins

That's interesting! My accountant does the exact opposite. She puts my YouTube ad revenue on Schedule C and my book royalties on Schedule E. Her reasoning was that YouTube ad revenue is tied to a platform where I built a business presence, while book royalties are more passive. The IRS seems to accept both approaches.

0 coins

Eva St. Cyr

•

This is exactly the kind of gray area that drives people crazy during tax season! I've been dealing with a similar situation with my old blog that still generates affiliate commissions. After years of going back and forth, here's what I've learned: The IRS generally looks at the "origin and character" of the income rather than your current level of activity. Since you originally created YouTube content as part of what was essentially a business venture (even if informal), the income retains that business character even when the channel goes dormant. I'd recommend sticking with Schedule C for consistency, especially since you've been filing it that way for 7+ years. The IRS tends to scrutinize sudden changes in income classification, and you could face questions during an audit about why you switched approaches. One silver lining: even with a dormant channel, you might still be able to deduct certain ongoing expenses like internet costs (percentage used for business), software subscriptions for video editing tools you maintain, or even a portion of your phone bill if you use it to monitor analytics. These deductions can help offset some of that self-employment tax burden. The peace of mind from consistent filing often outweighs the SE tax savings, especially at your income level where we're talking about maybe $200 in additional taxes.

0 coins

This is really helpful, thank you! I hadn't thought about the "origin and character" concept - that makes a lot of sense. You're right that consistency is probably worth more than the potential tax savings, especially since I've been doing it the same way for so long. I'm curious about those deductions you mentioned though. I actually do still pay for Adobe Creative Suite since I occasionally think about making new videos (even though I never do), and I have a business internet plan that I've maintained. Are those still legitimate deductions even if I'm not actively creating content? I always assumed I needed to be actively working to claim business expenses.

0 coins

Prev1...917918919920921...5644Next