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Has anyone used TurboTax Self-Employed for their LLC? I'm wondering how picky it is about the comma in the business name field and if it matches that format to all the forms it generates.
I use TurboTax Self-Employed for my LLC. The software lets you enter your business name exactly as you want it, including commas. Whatever you type in the business info section carries through to all the forms it generates. Just be consistent with what's on your EIN letter.
Thanks for the info! I'll make sure to enter it exactly as it appears on my EIN letter. I was worried about format inconsistencies causing issues with the IRS matching systems.
I went through this exact same confusion when I first started my LLC! After dealing with multiple tax forms and even getting a notice from the IRS about a name mismatch (turned out to be unrelated), here's what I learned: The key is to use your business name exactly as it appears on your EIN confirmation letter from the IRS. This is the "official" version they have in their system. If your state registration has the comma but your EIN letter doesn't (or vice versa), go with the EIN letter format for all federal tax documents. I keep a copy of my EIN letter handy whenever I'm filling out tax forms so I can reference the exact spelling and punctuation. It's saved me from second-guessing myself every tax season. The IRS matching systems are looking for consistency with what's in their database, not necessarily what your state has on file. For what it's worth, I've never heard of anyone getting into trouble specifically over comma placement - it's usually bigger discrepancies like completely different business names or missing the LLC designation entirely.
This is really helpful advice! I'm just getting started with my LLC and I was wondering - when you say "EIN confirmation letter," are you referring to the CP575 notice that the IRS sends after you apply for an EIN? Or is there a different document I should be looking for? I want to make sure I'm using the right reference document for my business name formatting.
This has been such a helpful discussion! I'm a new landlord (just bought my first rental property 6 months ago) and I've been putting off dealing with my refinancing costs because I was so confused about the tax treatment. Reading through everyone's experiences, especially the breakdown about Section B vs Section C on the closing disclosure, finally makes this manageable. I refinanced right after purchasing to get a better rate, so I have about $4,200 in closing costs that I now know how to properly categorize. One thing I'm curious about - for those of you who have been doing this longer, do you use specific software or spreadsheets to track all these amortization schedules? With a 30-year loan, keeping track of the monthly amortization amounts over decades seems like it could get unwieldy, especially if you refinance multiple times like some of you have mentioned. Also, when you're doing your annual tax prep, do most tax preparers understand these nuances about rental property refinancing costs, or do you find you need to educate them? I want to make sure whoever I work with next tax season knows what they're doing with investment property taxes.
Welcome to the rental property world! For tracking amortization schedules, I personally use a simple Excel spreadsheet with separate tabs for each refinance. I set up formulas to calculate the monthly amortization amounts automatically, so I just need to reference it each year when doing taxes. Some people use property management software like Buildium or Rent Manager that can track this stuff, but honestly a well-organized spreadsheet works just fine. Regarding tax preparers - this is hit or miss unfortunately. Many general tax preparers don't deal with rental properties regularly and may not fully understand the refinancing cost nuances we've discussed here. I'd recommend specifically looking for a CPA or EA (Enrolled Agent) who advertises experience with real estate investors. When interviewing potential preparers, ask them specifically about how they handle refinancing costs for rental properties - their answer will tell you quickly if they know their stuff. Don't be afraid to educate your preparer if needed! Bring documentation like your closing disclosure with your own notes about which costs should be amortized vs added to basis. A good tax professional will appreciate your preparation and organization.
Great question about tracking software! I've been managing rental properties for about 5 years now and went through several different approaches before finding what works for me. I started with Excel but found it got messy when I had multiple properties and refinances to track. Now I use QuickBooks for Rental Properties - it has built-in features for tracking loan amortization and can automatically calculate the monthly amounts to deduct. The initial setup takes some time, but once it's configured, it handles the calculations and even reminds you about the deductions at tax time. For tax preparers, I echo what @Mei Chen said - definitely find someone who specializes in real estate. I learned this the hard way when my first tax preparer incorrectly added all my refinancing costs to basis instead of amortizing them. Had to file an amended return and pay additional taxes plus penalties. Now I work with a CPA who has about 30% of her practice focused on real estate investors, and she actually catches things I miss sometimes. One tip: before your first meeting with a new tax preparer, ask them to walk you through how they would handle a hypothetical refinancing scenario for a rental property. If they mention amortizing loan costs over the loan term, you know they understand the basics!
This thread has been incredibly educational! I'm dealing with a similar situation - just refinanced my rental duplex and have been stressing about how to handle the $5,400 in closing costs. The Section B vs Section C breakdown on the closing disclosure is genius - I never would have thought to categorize it that way. Just went back and looked at mine: most of my costs ($4,100) are in Section B (loan origination, processing fees, etc.) so those need to be amortized over 30 years. But I do have about $1,300 in Section C costs (title insurance, recording fees) that can potentially be added to my cost basis. One follow-up question: if you pay discount points to buy down your interest rate during a refinance, do those always have to be amortized? Or are there any circumstances where points can be deducted immediately for rental properties? I paid $2,000 in points and I'm hoping there might be some way to accelerate that deduction since it was specifically to reduce my ongoing financing costs. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this is exactly the kind of practical guidance you can't easily find elsewhere!
Great question about discount points! Unfortunately, for rental properties, discount points generally must be amortized over the life of the loan just like other loan origination costs, even though they're paid upfront to reduce your interest rate. This is different from owner-occupied properties where points can sometimes be deducted immediately. For investment properties, the IRS treats points as prepaid interest that needs to be spread out over the loan term. So your $2,000 in points would be amortized over 30 years, giving you about $67 per year in deductions. The one exception would be if you use the property as your primary residence for part of the year (like if you live in one unit of your duplex), but even then it gets complicated with partial deductions. I know it's frustrating to pay that much upfront and not get the immediate tax benefit, but remember that when you eventually pay off the loan (either through refinancing again or selling), any remaining unamortized points can be deducted in full that year. Plus, the lower interest rate you got will save you money every month, which is the real benefit of paying points in the first place. Your categorization using Section B vs C sounds spot-on though - you're definitely on the right track with how to handle everything else!
This is such a timely discussion! I'm in the exact same boat - used FreeTaxUSA for years but switched to TurboTax desktop last year and got overwhelmed by all the version options. What really helped me was creating a simple checklist of what I actually need vs what sounds fancy. For basic investment reporting (regular stocks, ETFs, mutual funds), TurboTax Deluxe desktop really does cover everything. I have about 30 stock transactions plus dividend income from 4 different brokerages, and Deluxe handled it all perfectly. The key thing I learned is that the desktop versions include WAY more forms and capabilities than their online counterparts with the same names. It's honestly misleading how different they are! One more money-saving tip: if you're buying from Costco, their return policy applies to software too. So if you buy Deluxe and later realize you actually needed Premier for some reason, you can return the unopened Deluxe and exchange it. Takes some of the pressure off making the "perfect" choice upfront. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences with the different tools and services - definitely bookmarking this thread for tax season prep!
@Amara Oluwaseyi - That s'a really smart approach with the checklist! I wish I had thought of that when I was trying to decide between versions last year. I ended up overthinking it and almost bought Premier when I really just needed Deluxe for my straightforward investment portfolio. Your point about Costco s'return policy is brilliant - I had no idea that applied to tax software! That definitely removes a lot of the anxiety about choosing the wrong version upfront. It s'especially helpful since you don t'always know exactly what forms you ll'need until you re'actually going through your documents. The misleading naming between online and desktop versions really is frustrating. I spent way too much time on TurboTax s'website trying to figure out the differences, and their comparison charts don t'make it clear at all that the desktop Deluxe includes investment reporting while online Deluxe doesn t.'This whole thread has been incredibly valuable - way better than the official TurboTax documentation for understanding the real-world differences between versions!
This thread is incredibly helpful! I've been using the online TurboTax for years but am considering switching to desktop for better investment handling. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet - does the desktop version handle employee stock purchase plans (ESPP) well? I participate in my company's ESPP and always struggle with the disqualifying vs qualifying disposition calculations. The online version makes me manually figure out the ordinary income vs capital gains portions, which is confusing. Also curious about state tax filing - I know you mentioned the $10 federal e-file credit, but do both Deluxe and Premier desktop versions charge the same for state e-filing? I file in California which always seems to have extra complications. Thanks for all the detailed comparisons everyone has shared - this is exactly the kind of real-world experience that's impossible to find in the official product descriptions!
Does anyone know if taking the earned income tax credit increases audit risk? I qualify this year but I've heard the IRS targets EITC claims a lot.
EITC claims do face higher scrutiny because there's historically been a high error/fraud rate in this area. However, if you legitimately qualify, don't hesitate to claim it! The key things the IRS checks are: 1. That you (and any qualifying children) have valid Social Security numbers 2. That your filing status is correct (especially if claiming as Head of Household) 3. That your income is reported accurately 4. That qualifying children meet the relationship, age, and residency tests Just make sure you meet all the requirements and can document your eligibility if asked. The EITC can be worth thousands of dollars depending on your income and number of qualifying children, so it's definitely worth claiming if you're eligible.
This is really helpful information! I'm a freelance graphic designer and have been worried about audit risk since my income has been pretty inconsistent year to year. Some months I make great money on big projects, other months it's really slow. One thing I've learned from my accountant is that keeping detailed contemporaneous records is absolutely critical. I now use a separate business checking account for ALL business expenses and income, and I photograph every receipt immediately using an app that uploads to cloud storage. For anyone who works from home, be really careful with that home office deduction. The IRS is strict about "exclusive use" - that room has to be used ONLY for business, not as a guest bedroom that sometimes has a desk in it. I ended up not claiming it because my home office doubles as my art studio for personal projects. Also, if you're self-employed, consider making quarterly estimated tax payments even if you're not required to. It shows good faith effort to comply and can help avoid penalties if you end up owing at filing time. Plus it's easier to manage cash flow than getting hit with a huge tax bill all at once.
Great advice about the separate business account and photographing receipts! I'm just starting out as a freelancer and this is exactly the kind of practical tip I needed. Quick question about quarterly payments - is there a minimum income threshold where you're required to make them, or is it always optional? I'm trying to figure out if I should start doing this now or wait until my income is more stable.
Adriana Cohn
Thank you all for the detailed explanations! This has been incredibly helpful. I filed on March 7th with head of household and dependent care credits, so it sounds like I'm right in line with the typical timeline everyone has described. It's reassuring to know that "accepted" really is just the first step and that 2-3 weeks in that status is completely normal, especially with credits that need verification. Based on what Giovanni shared about their March 3rd filing getting approved after 19 days, I'm probably looking at another week or so before seeing any movement. I'll stop obsessively checking the Where's My Refund tool multiple times a day and switch to once every few days like Zainab suggested. This community has been so much more helpful than any of the official IRS resources for understanding what these status updates actually mean!
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Hattie Carson
ā¢I'm so glad this thread helped clarify things for you! I was in the exact same boat when I filed my first return as head of household a few years back - the wait between "accepted" and actually getting processed felt endless, and the IRS resources really don't explain the difference clearly. It's great that you found this community because honestly, hearing from people who've been through the same situation with similar credits is way more reassuring than trying to decode the official IRS language. Best of luck with your return - hopefully you'll see that status change soon!
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Liam Fitzgerald
I went through this same confusion last year! "Accepted" definitely just means the IRS received your return and it passed their basic automated checks - like your SSN matches their records, the math is correct, and there are no obvious formatting errors. It's basically confirmation that your return made it into their system successfully. The actual review of your deductions, credits, and eligibility happens during the "processing" stage, which comes after accepted. Since you filed as head of household with dependent care credits, those will need to be verified during processing, which typically adds a few extra days to the timeline. I filed with similar credits last year and went from "accepted" to "approved with DDD" after about 21 days total. The IRS tends to batch process returns with certain credits together, so don't worry if it seems to sit in "accepted" status for a while - that's completely normal!
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Lucy Taylor
ā¢This explanation really helps break down the process! I'm new to filing taxes and was getting confused by all the different status terms. Your point about batch processing makes a lot of sense - it would explain why some returns seem to move faster than others even when filed around the same time. I'm curious though, when you say it took 21 days total from accepted to approved, was that 21 calendar days or business days? I filed about 10 days ago and I'm trying to get a realistic sense of when I might see movement.
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