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Just to add some clarity on the session method - I had a similar situation with multiple sportsbooks last year and was initially overwhelmed by hundreds of individual transactions. What really helped was understanding that you can define a "session" however makes sense for your gambling pattern, as long as you're consistent. For online sports betting, I grouped mine by calendar day since I typically would place several bets throughout a day. Some people group by the time they log in and out of the app. The key is documenting your method and sticking to it. One important thing to note: even though you calculated a net profit of $5,400.66, you still need to report the GROSS winnings of $33,862.41 on your tax return. The $28,461.75 in losses can only offset this if you itemize deductions on Schedule A. Also, make sure you're not double-counting anything in your calculations. Sometimes deposits can get confusing if you're looking at account balance changes versus actual bet outcomes. The transaction log should clearly show "bet placed," "bet won," and "bet lost" which are the key data points for tax purposes. Keep those FanDuel records organized - if you ever get audited, having clean documentation of your session method will be crucial!

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This is really helpful! I'm new to all this tax stuff and have been putting off dealing with my gambling records because it seemed so complicated. Your explanation about grouping by calendar day makes a lot of sense - I was trying to figure out individual bet tracking and it was a nightmare with all the live betting I did during games. Quick question though - when you say "gross winnings," does that include the original bet amount I got back when I won? Like if I bet $100 and won $150 total (my $100 bet plus $50 profit), is my "gross winnings" $150 or just the $50 profit portion? Also, did you end up itemizing or taking the standard deduction? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth itemizing just for the gambling losses or if I should just eat the tax on the full winnings amount.

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Great question! For your example, if you bet $100 and won $150 total back, your "gross winnings" for tax purposes would be the $50 profit portion, not the full $150. The $100 you got back is just your original wager being returned - that's not income. Think of it this way: if you bet $100 and lose, you have a $100 gambling loss. If you bet $100 and win $150 total, you have $50 in gambling winnings (the $150 minus your $100 wager). The sportsbook transaction logs should show this clearly as your "net win" or "profit" for each bet. Regarding itemizing vs standard deduction - it really depends on your total itemized deductions. For 2023, the standard deduction was $13,850 for single filers. If your gambling losses plus other itemizable expenses (state/local taxes, mortgage interest, charitable donations, etc.) exceed that amount, then itemizing makes sense. Otherwise, you're better off taking the standard deduction even though you can't offset the gambling winnings. I ended up itemizing because my gambling losses plus my state income taxes and mortgage interest pushed me over the standard deduction threshold. But definitely run the numbers both ways to see what works better for your situation!

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This is a really common confusion point that I see all the time! You're absolutely right to report the $5,400.66 as your net gambling income, but there's an important distinction in how the IRS wants you to report it. You'll actually need to report your TOTAL winnings of $33,862.41 as income on Form 1040 (line 8b for gambling winnings). Then, if you choose to itemize deductions on Schedule A, you can deduct your gambling losses of $28,461.75 (but only up to the amount of your winnings). Your $4,100 in deposits are NOT considered losses - they're just the money you transferred to play with, similar to exchanging cash for chips at a casino. The actual gambling losses are the $28,461.75 from bets you lost. So your tax impact depends on whether you itemize: - If you itemize: You report $33,862.41 in winnings and deduct $28,461.75 in losses, netting to taxable income of $5,400.66 - If you take the standard deduction: You report $33,862.41 in winnings with no offset, so you pay tax on the full amount Make sure to keep all your FanDuel transaction records well-organized by session as you've done - that documentation will be crucial if you're ever audited. The session method is perfectly valid and much more practical than tracking individual bets!

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This is exactly the kind of clear breakdown I needed! I've been stressing about this for weeks. Just to make sure I understand correctly - even though my net profit was only $5,400.66, I still have to report the full $33,862.41 as income and can only get relief from the losses if I itemize deductions? That seems like it could really hurt people who have modest gambling activity but take the standard deduction. In my case, I'm probably better off itemizing since my losses are so substantial, but I can see how someone with smaller amounts might get stuck paying tax on gross winnings with no offset. Thanks for confirming that my session method approach is valid too - I was worried I was doing something wrong by grouping transactions by day rather than tracking every individual bet. The FanDuel logs have hundreds of entries and organizing by session made it so much more manageable. One last question - do I need to attach the FanDuel transaction logs to my tax return, or just keep them for my records in case of an audit?

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Caleb Stark

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I just wanted to thank everyone for all the detailed advice in this thread! As someone who's been casually playing on these platforms but completely ignoring the tax implications, this has been a real wake-up call. I've been tracking my overall wins/losses in my head but clearly need to get much more organized about record keeping. The Google Sheets approach that @Leo McDonald mentioned sounds perfect - simple but comprehensive enough to handle everything I need for tax purposes. One thing I'm still unclear about though - if I had a really good month early in the year but then gave back most of those winnings in subsequent months, how does that affect my tax liability? Do I owe taxes on the gross winnings from my best month, or can I offset those with later losses within the same tax year? I'm asking because I had a hot streak in March where I won about $2,800, but then went through a rough patch and gave back about $2,100 of that by June. Want to make sure I understand what I actually owe taxes on before I start setting money aside for quarterly payments. Also planning to download all my transaction histories this weekend before I forget. Thanks again to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread is going to save a lot of people from making costly mistakes!

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Samantha Hall

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@Caleb Stark Great question about the timing of wins vs losses! For tax purposes, you ll'owe taxes on your total gross winnings for the entire tax year - so in your case, that $2,800 from March plus any other winnings you had throughout the year, regardless of when the losses occurred. The losses from your rough patch can potentially offset those winnings, but only if you itemize deductions on Schedule A rather (than taking the standard deduction .)Since you d'list gambling losses as an itemized deduction, you can deduct up to the amount of your winnings - so your $2,100 in losses could reduce your taxable gambling income. However, given that the standard deduction is $13,850 for single filers, you d'need that $2,100 in gambling losses PLUS other itemizable deductions mortgage (interest, charitable contributions, etc. to) exceed the standard deduction for it to be worthwhile. If your total itemized deductions don t'beat $13,850, you re'better off taking the standard deduction and just paying taxes on the full gross winnings. The key thing to remember is that it s'an annual calculation, not month-by-month. So your March hot streak and June losses both count toward your 2024 tax year totals. Definitely get those transaction histories downloaded - they ll'show you exactly what your net position was for the year!

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation and this thread has been incredibly helpful! I've been playing on Underdog and PrizePicks for about 6 months and have around $2,400 in net winnings, but like many others here, I had no clue about the tax implications until now. After reading through all the advice, I immediately went and downloaded my transaction histories from both platforms. Found them exactly where people mentioned - under Account Settings for PrizePicks and buried under Account > History for Underdog. The CSV exports are actually pretty detailed and show everything I need. One thing I noticed that might help others - both platforms also show your "net deposits" vs "net withdrawals" in their account summaries, which gives you a quick sanity check on whether you're actually up or down for the year before diving into the detailed transaction logs. I'm definitely going to start that Google Sheets tracking system going forward and set up automatic transfers to a separate tax account. Based on the 25-30% rule mentioned throughout this thread, I should be setting aside about $600-720 for taxes on my current winnings. Thanks especially to everyone who shared specific details about finding the transaction histories and explained the itemized vs standard deduction decision. This community knowledge is way more practical than anything I could find through official IRS resources!

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Omar Farouk

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@Jungleboo Soletrain That s'a great point about checking the net "deposits vs" net "withdrawals as" a quick sanity check! I hadn t'thought to look at that summary view first before diving into the detailed transaction logs. Your math on setting aside $600-720 sounds right for $2,400 in winnings. I d'probably lean toward the higher end 30% (just) to be safe, especially since you mentioned you re'planning to keep playing. Better to have a little extra set aside than to come up short at tax time. One thing I learned from my experience last year - make sure when you re'setting up those automatic transfers that you re'basing it on your actual withdrawals, not just your account balance. I made the mistake of only transferring tax money when I cashed out, but forgot that I still owed taxes on winnings that I left in my account to keep playing with. The Google Sheets system really is a game-changer for staying organized. Takes literally 30 seconds after each session but saves hours of headache later. Definitely start that habit now while you re'thinking about it!

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Sean Kelly

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Has anyone addressed the retirement account angle here? One major benefit of S-corp employment is that you can contribute to a Solo 401k as both employer and employee. If you're not on payroll anymore, you're missing that opportunity. When I cut back my S-corp involvement, I kept myself on a minimal salary partly to maintain my retirement contributions. Worth considering if retirement planning is important to you.

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Zara Malik

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I actually switched to contributing more to my new employer's 401k to make up the difference when I took myself off my S-corp payroll. If the new job has decent retirement benefits, it might not be worth the extra payroll taxes just to get the Solo 401k benefits.

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This is a really common situation post-COVID, and you're handling it correctly from what I can see. Since you're not performing any services for the S-corp anymore and your parents are properly W2'd as the actual workers, you shouldn't need to take a salary. The key documentation points others mentioned are crucial though. I'd add that you should also keep records of your new W2 employment showing you're working full-time elsewhere - this helps demonstrate you're not available to provide substantial services to your S-corp. One thing to watch out for: if you're still involved in any major business decisions (like whether to take on new clients, major expense approvals, etc.), document exactly what those activities are and how minimal they are. The IRS generally looks for a pattern of regular, ongoing services rather than occasional ownership decisions. Your situation sounds legitimate, but having clear documentation will save you headaches if you ever get questioned about it.

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Mei Chen

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This is really helpful advice about documenting the transition. I'm curious though - what exactly counts as "major business decisions" that might still require salary? For example, if I'm still the one who has to sign the annual corporate tax return or approve the accountant's fees, does that cross the line into substantial services? I want to make sure I'm not inadvertently creating a problem by handling these basic ownership responsibilities.

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Has your accountant run the cash flow projections for both scenarios? When we bought our last work truck, our CPA showed us that even though buying gave us the Section 179 deduction, the monthly lease payments were lower than loan payments would have been, which helped our cash flow during our expansion phase.

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Zainab Yusuf

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This is the real question. Tax deductions are great, but cash flow is king, especially during expansion. We leased our delivery vehicles despite the Section 179 benefits of buying because we needed that cash for other investments that had better returns than tax savings.

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Another thing to consider: maintenance costs! When we leased our company vehicles, all maintenance was included. When we purchased, those repair bills added up fast, especially after warranty expired. This doesn't show up in the initial buy vs lease calculations but made a huge difference over time.

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing of when you actually need the deduction. Since you mentioned you're already showing high expenses this year from expansion, you might not need the full Section 179 benefit right now. If your business is projecting significantly better profits next year, that larger deduction could be more valuable when you're in a higher tax bracket. Also, with a $130k vehicle, make sure you understand exactly what type it is for tax purposes. The Section 179 limits vary dramatically - if it's a luxury SUV under 14,000 pounds, you're capped at around $28,900 regardless of the purchase price. But if it's a heavy-duty truck or van over 14,000 pounds, you could potentially deduct the full amount. Have you considered a hybrid approach? Some dealers offer lease-to-own programs where you can start with lower monthly payments and decide later whether to purchase based on how your business performs.

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LunarLegend

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That's a really good point about timing the deduction when it's most valuable. I'm curious though - if they decide to wait until next year to purchase when their profits are higher, wouldn't they miss out on this year's Section 179 limits? And what if the limits change for 2025? Sometimes it's better to use the deduction when you know it's available rather than gambling on future tax law changes. The hybrid lease-to-own approach sounds interesting too. Do those programs typically allow you to apply lease payments toward the purchase price, or do you essentially start over with financing if you decide to buy?

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Just a heads up that HR Block and TurboTax both handle these 1099-R Code G situations pretty well. If you use either software, they'll walk you through the right questions to determine what type of transaction it was and how to report it.

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I used TurboTax last year and it still confused me with a similar situation. It kept asking if I did a rollover when technically it was an in-plan conversion. I ended up having to call their support line to sort it out.

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Caesar Grant

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I had a very similar situation last year and it turned out to be exactly what others have mentioned - an in-plan Roth conversion that I had completely forgotten about! The key thing to remember is that when you convert traditional 401k money (which was contributed pre-tax) to Roth 401k money (which grows tax-free), you have to pay income tax on the converted amount. That's why you're seeing a taxable amount in box 2a even though you didn't "withdraw" anything. Code G on a 1099-R doesn't always mean a traditional rollover between different accounts. It can also indicate in-plan conversions, automatic plan transfers when providers change, or other internal movements of retirement funds. Since you mentioned finding paperwork about "optimizing your retirement tax strategy," this almost certainly sounds like an in-plan Roth conversion. The good news is there's no early withdrawal penalty - you just need to include that amount as taxable income for the year. Make sure to report the 1099-R correctly on your tax return, and consider setting aside money for the tax bill if you haven't already. Definitely confirm with your plan administrator, but this sounds very straightforward once you know what happened!

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Amina Sow

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This is really helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I got a 1099-R with code G and had no idea what it meant. Reading through this thread, it sounds like in-plan Roth conversions are way more common than I realized. Quick question - when you say "set aside money for the tax bill," roughly what percentage of the converted amount should someone expect to pay in taxes? I'm trying to figure out if I need to adjust my withholdings or make an estimated payment to avoid penalties. Also, did you have any issues with your tax software recognizing this as a conversion versus trying to treat it as a regular rollover? Want to make sure I don't mess up the reporting.

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