IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Mila Walker

•

This is a complex situation that highlights why proper documentation is so critical in horse racing partnerships. From what you've described, you're likely in a de facto partnership regardless of whether the main owner acknowledges it formally. A few key considerations: 1. **The deceased horse loss**: Document everything - purchase agreements, vet bills, training expenses, insurance claims if any. This should be deductible as an ordinary business loss if you can demonstrate business intent (which the fact that you immediately purchased another horse helps establish). 2. **Partnership vs. Schedule C**: While technically this sounds like a partnership, if the majority owner refuses to file partnership returns, you may need to report your share on Schedule C. Keep meticulous records of all expenses, income, and communications showing your active involvement in business decisions. 3. **Travel expenses**: These are generally deductible if the primary purpose is business-related (checking on your investment, meeting with trainers, evaluating performance). Keep detailed records of the business purpose for each trip. 4. **Documentation strategy**: Even without formal partnership papers, create a written agreement outlining ownership percentages, profit/loss sharing, and decision-making authority. This helps establish legitimate business intent. Consider consulting with a tax professional who has experience with horse racing activities - this isn't a DIY situation given the complexity and potential audit risk.

0 coins

This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the audit risk you mentioned - are horse racing activities particularly scrutinized by the IRS? Also, when you say "create a written agreement" even after the fact, wouldn't that look suspicious if audited since it wasn't done at the time of purchase? I'm worried about doing anything that might make the situation look manufactured rather than genuine.

0 coins

CosmicCowboy

•

@6c8b604cd9c9 You're absolutely right to be cautious about documentation timing! Horse racing activities do face higher scrutiny because the IRS is well aware that many people treat it as a hobby while claiming business deductions. The key is authenticity - any written agreement should reflect the actual understanding you had from the beginning, not create new terms. For audit protection, focus on documenting your existing business relationship rather than manufacturing one. Things like: email chains showing your involvement in training decisions, records of you visiting the horses, communications about racing strategy, financial tracking of your investment returns. The IRS wants to see genuine business activity and profit motive. If you do create a written agreement, frame it as "memorializing our existing understanding" rather than establishing new terms. Include details that reflect what actually happened - like how you split the costs of the deceased horse, how decisions were made about the second purchase, your agreed ownership percentage, etc. This shows you're documenting reality, not creating fiction. The audit risk is manageable if you have legitimate business intent and proper records. Just avoid the common red flags like claiming huge losses year after year with no realistic path to profitability.

0 coins

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the importance of establishing your material participation in the horse racing activity. Even if you're a 25% minority owner, if you can demonstrate that you materially participate in the business (more than 500 hours per year, or if this is your primary business activity), it can help classify your involvement as active rather than passive. This distinction is crucial because active participants can deduct losses against other income, while passive activity losses are generally limited to passive income. Given that you live in a different state, documenting your involvement becomes even more important - keep records of phone calls with trainers, time spent researching bloodlines, reviewing race schedules, analyzing performance data, etc. Also, regarding the LLC question - while it won't change your tax treatment unless you elect different status, it could provide liability protection if the horse injures someone or causes property damage. Horse racing does carry inherent risks that personal liability insurance might not fully cover. For the immediate tax situation, I'd recommend filing Form 8275 (Disclosure Statement) along with your return to explain your position on reporting the income/expenses without a K-1. This shows good faith compliance and can help avoid penalties if the IRS later determines different treatment was required.

0 coins

Ravi Kapoor

•

This is excellent advice about material participation! I hadn't considered the 500-hour test, but that makes total sense for determining active vs passive status. For someone in OP's situation living out of state, documenting those hours becomes crucial - even research time and phone consultations should count toward material participation. The Form 8275 disclosure is a smart protective measure too. It shows the IRS you're aware of potential reporting issues and are making a good faith effort to comply despite not receiving proper documentation from your business partner. One question about the LLC liability protection - would that actually help in a situation where you're only a 25% owner? I'm wondering if the majority owner's insurance policies would already cover incidents involving the horse, or if minority owners need their own separate coverage.

0 coins

Xan Dae

•

I'm in a very similar situation and this thread has been absolutely invaluable! I also went through an intense trading phase during the summer without keeping proper records, and when I first looked at my Robinhood CSV file, I honestly considered just ignoring it until next year and hoping for the best. After reading through everyone's experiences here, I'm completely convinced that trying to handle this manually would be a disaster. The wash sale rules alone sound incredibly complex, and I know I definitely bought and sold the same stocks multiple times within short windows during my "trading expert" phase. Based on all the recommendations, I'm going with TaxAct Deluxe. The $25 price point is so much more reasonable than TurboTax Premier, and seeing multiple people confirm that it handled their wash sales correctly and matched their 1099s exactly gives me real confidence in the accuracy. One thing I'm really glad this thread highlighted is the December 31st deadline for tax-loss harvesting. I hadn't even considered this strategy, but I'm definitely holding several positions that are still underwater from my trading spree. Being able to sell those losses to offset my gains could make a huge difference in my tax liability. This whole discussion has made me feel so much less alone in this situation - it's clear that learning proper record-keeping the hard way is practically a rite of passage for new traders! Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and turning what felt like an impossible problem into something actually manageable.

0 coins

I'm also dealing with this exact same situation and it's been so stressful! Just got my Robinhood CSV file and had that same moment of panic seeing all those trades from my "genius" trading phase earlier this year. This whole thread has been such a game-changer for me - I had no idea so many people went through the same experience with poor record keeping. Based on everyone's advice, I'm definitely going with TaxAct Deluxe too. The price point makes so much sense, especially since multiple people confirmed it handles wash sales correctly. Your point about the December 31st deadline for tax-loss harvesting is really important - I hadn't realized there was such a hard cutoff date. I'm also sitting on some underwater positions from my trading spree, so this could be a great opportunity to offset some of those gains before year-end. Thanks for adding to this discussion! It's honestly so reassuring to know we're all learning this lesson together and getting organized before tax season hits. Definitely never making the record-keeping mistake again!

0 coins

Yara Elias

•

I'm going through this exact same situation right now! Also got caught up in heavy trading earlier this year without keeping proper records, and when I downloaded my Robinhood CSV file last week, I felt completely overwhelmed looking at hundreds of transactions. This entire thread has been incredibly helpful and reassuring - it's amazing to see how many people have experienced this same "learning moment" with record keeping! Based on everyone's advice, I'm definitely convinced that trying to handle wash sale calculations manually would be a complete nightmare. I'm planning to go with TaxAct Deluxe after seeing so many confirmations that it handles all the complex calculations correctly and matches 1099s perfectly. The $25 price point is much more reasonable than TurboTax Premier, especially since most of our trades are probably going to be short-term capital gains taxed as regular income. The tax-loss harvesting deadline before December 31st is something I really need to act on quickly. I'm also holding several positions that are still underwater from my trading phase, so strategically selling those losses could help offset my gains and reduce the overall tax impact. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences and making this feel manageable instead of hopeless! It's honestly so comforting to know I'm not alone in learning this record-keeping lesson the hard way. Definitely going to be much more organized with tracking everything going forward!

0 coins

Diego Flores

•

I'm in the exact same boat and this entire discussion has been such a relief! Also went through my own "day trading expert" phase earlier this year and completely ignored proper record keeping. When I first opened my CSV file, I honestly felt like I might throw up looking at all those transactions. It's incredible how many of us made this same mistake - definitely makes me feel less stupid about the whole situation! Based on everything I've read here, TaxAct Deluxe seems like the clear winner for handling wash sales without breaking the bank. The fact that so many people confirmed it matched their 1099s gives me real confidence in the accuracy. Your point about the December 31st deadline is so important - I had no idea tax-loss harvesting had such a hard cutoff. I'm also holding some positions that are down from my trading spree, so this could be a great opportunity to turn those paper losses into actual tax savings. Thanks for contributing to this thread! It's honestly been life-changing to realize this is such a common experience and that there are proven solutions. Never again with the poor record keeping - lesson definitely learned the hard way!

0 coins

I've actually dealt with this exact situation professionally as a tax preparer, and I want to emphasize something that might ease your stress: the IRS is generally reasonable about charitable donations when you can show good faith effort to determine fair market value. Given that your collection is already donated, here's what I'd prioritize: First, go through that video systematically and document whatever you can identify - even partial album spines or artist names visible in boxes. Second, create categories based on what you remember: common albums vs. collectibles, condition ranges, and approximate quantities in each category. For valuation methodology, stick to established sources like Discogs sold listings and be conservative. A well-documented approach showing you researched comparable sales is much more defensible than guessing. Most vinyl collections break down roughly as 70-80% common albums ($3-8 each), 15-20% moderately collectible ($8-20), and 5-10% truly valuable items that need individual research. The fact that you consulted with a knowledgeable friend before donating actually strengthens your position - it shows you understood the collection had value and made an informed decision. Consider asking them to provide a brief written summary of their assessment to include with your documentation. Remember, thousands of people donate collectibles every year. As long as your total valuation is reasonable and you can explain your methodology, you should be fine. The IRS manual even acknowledges that perfect precision isn't expected for large collections - they're looking for reasonableness, not perfection.

0 coins

Abigail Patel

•

This is really reassuring to hear from someone with professional tax preparation experience! Your breakdown of the 70-80% common, 15-20% moderately collectible, and 5-10% truly valuable split makes a lot of sense and gives me a good framework to work with. I'm particularly glad you mentioned that the IRS doesn't expect "perfect precision" for large collections - I've been stressing about trying to remember and value every single record, but focusing on reasonableness and good methodology sounds much more manageable. One quick follow-up question: when you mention being "conservative" with valuations, would you recommend erring on the lower end of the price ranges I find on Discogs? For example, if I see a common album selling anywhere from $5-12 depending on condition, should I stick closer to the $5-7 range to be safe, or is using the middle of the range acceptable as long as I'm honest about condition assessment? Also, do you have any thoughts on whether it's worth spending time trying to identify specific pressing details (like record label variations or reissue vs. original pressing) from the video, or is that level of detail overkill for this situation?

0 coins

@AstroExplorer Great questions! For conservative valuations, I'd recommend staying in the lower-middle range of what you find on Discogs - so for that $5-12 example, maybe $6-8 depending on your honest condition assessment. The key is consistency across your collection rather than always picking the absolute lowest value. Regarding pressing details, don't stress too much about identifying specific label variations from your video unless something clearly stands out as obviously rare (like colored vinyl or visibly different labels). For a large collection like yours, focusing on general categories like "1970s original pressing vs. 1980s reissue" is usually sufficient. The IRS understands that detailed pressing identification requires physical examination that you no longer have access to. Your time is better spent on creating solid documentation of your overall methodology and the general scope/condition of different portions of your collection. Remember, you're trying to demonstrate reasonableness and good faith effort, not create a museum-quality catalog. The goal is to show you thoughtfully considered the values rather than just pulling numbers out of thin air.

0 coins

KylieRose

•

I went through something very similar with a large book collection donation a few years ago, and I wanted to share a few additional practical tips that might help streamline your process. First, if you're having trouble identifying specific items from your video, try watching it on the largest screen possible and pausing frequently. I was amazed at how much detail I could pick up when I viewed my donation video on my computer monitor versus my phone. Even if you can only make out partial titles or distinctive album artwork, that's still valuable documentation. Second, consider reaching out to other local vinyl collectors or record stores for informal advice on your valuation ranges. Many collectors are happy to help validate your methodology, and having multiple sources confirm your approach strengthens your documentation. You don't need formal appraisals, just reasonable confirmation that your values make sense. One thing that really helped me was creating a "confidence level" for different parts of my collection - items I was very sure about versus ones I was estimating more broadly. This helped me focus my research time on the portions where I could be most accurate while being appropriately conservative on the rest. Also, don't forget to factor in the donation receipt date for your tax filing. Since vinyl values can fluctuate, the IRS expects valuations to reflect market conditions at the time of donation, not current prices if you're filing months later. The whole process felt overwhelming at first, but breaking it down into manageable steps made it much more doable. Good luck with your documentation!

0 coins

Nia Jackson

•

This is such helpful advice! The "confidence level" approach really resonates with me - I've been trying to treat everything equally when clearly I remember some parts of my collection much better than others. Your point about using a larger screen for the video review is brilliant and something I hadn't thought of. I've only looked at it on my phone so far, but you're right that a computer monitor would probably reveal much more detail. The timing issue you mentioned about market conditions at donation date versus filing date is really important too. I donated in early April, so I should be looking at spring 2025 values rather than whatever prices might be now. Do you happen to know if there are any resources that track historical pricing for collectibles, or should I just note the date ranges of my research and assume that's sufficient documentation of timing? Thanks for sharing your experience - it's reassuring to hear from someone who actually made it through a similar process successfully!

0 coins

Has anyone used TurboTax Self-Employed for this kind of situation? I'm in almost the exact same boat (working for a US startup while living in BC) and wondering if the software can handle this or if I need something more specialized.

0 coins

I've used TurboTax Self-Employed for my US-Canada income situation for the past two years and it works fine. Just make sure you convert all your USD income to CAD (I use the Bank of Canada annual average exchange rate to keep it simple). The software walks you through the T2125 form pretty well. The only tricky part is tracking all your business expenses throughout the year - TurboTax doesn't help with that part. I use a separate expense tracking app and then just input the totals by category at tax time.

0 coins

Zoe Dimitriou

•

As someone who went through this exact situation when I first started working remotely for a US company, I totally understand the stress you're feeling! The good news is it's more straightforward than it seems once you know what to do. Since you're being paid as a consultant, you're essentially running a sole proprietorship business in Canada. You'll report this income on Form T2125 (Statement of Business or Professional Activities) along with your T1 return. Convert your USD income to CAD using either the Bank of Canada's annual average exchange rate for 2023 or the daily rates when you received each payment - just be consistent. For expenses, definitely claim your home office costs! Calculate the percentage of your home used exclusively for work and apply that to your rent, utilities, internet, etc. Also claim any computer equipment, software, office supplies, and other business expenses. One thing others haven't mentioned - since you got your PR last year and moved apartments, make sure you update your address with CRA and claim any eligible moving expenses if the move was work-related. You likely don't need to file US taxes since you're a Canadian resident performing work in Canada, but double-check this if you have any US ties. Don't panic about the deadline - if you can't get everything done by April 30th, file anyway to avoid late filing penalties, then amend if needed. The CRA is usually reasonable about first-time self-employment situations when you make a good faith effort to comply.

0 coins

Ravi Kapoor

•

This is really helpful advice! I'm new to this community but dealing with a similar cross-border income situation. One question - you mentioned claiming moving expenses if the move was work-related. Does this apply even if you're working remotely and the move wasn't specifically required by your employer? I moved provinces last year for personal reasons but continued working for the same US company remotely from my new location.

0 coins

Ella Cofer

•

I had this exact same problem last year! The key thing to understand is that TurboTax sometimes gets "stuck" on requiring a 1095-A if there's any indication earlier in your return that you might have had marketplace coverage. Here's what worked for me: 1. Go back to the very beginning of the health insurance section (not just where you're stuck) 2. Look for the initial question about your insurance source - make sure it says "employer-provided" or "job-based coverage" 3. If you see any mention of "marketplace," "exchange," or "premium tax credits" selected, change those 4. There's also usually a question about whether you received advance premium tax credits - make sure that's marked "No" The 1095-B from your employer insurance is basically just for your records - you typically don't need to enter any information from it into your tax return. Once you fix those initial selections, TurboTax should stop asking for the 1095-A entirely. If you're still stuck, try using the "start over" option just for the health insurance section rather than your whole return. Good luck!

0 coins

This is super helpful! I just ran into this same issue and was getting so frustrated. The part about checking for "advance premium tax credits" being marked "No" was key - I think that's what was triggering the 1095-A requirement for me. Just went back and found that setting buried in the early questions. Thanks for the step-by-step breakdown, this saved me from having to start my whole return over!

0 coins

Just wanted to share another potential solution that worked for me when I hit this same wall. Sometimes TurboTax gets confused if you have multiple types of coverage during the year (like if you switched jobs or had COBRA for part of the year). If that's your situation, make sure you're answering the questions for each coverage period correctly. I had employer insurance for most of the year but had a brief gap when I switched jobs, and TurboTax was asking for a 1095-A because of how I answered the gap coverage questions. The key is to be really specific about the dates and types of coverage for each period. Once I clarified that my gap was just a few weeks with no marketplace coverage, it stopped demanding the 1095-A form. Your 1095-B should have the coverage dates on it that you can reference to make sure you're entering everything accurately.

0 coins

Ryan Kim

•

This is a great point about coverage gaps! I didn't even think about that being a factor. I actually did have a brief period between jobs earlier this year where I was on COBRA for about 6 weeks. I wonder if that's part of why TurboTax is getting confused about my forms. Do you remember specifically how you indicated the COBRA coverage? I'm not sure if I should classify that as employer coverage or something else, and that might be where I'm going wrong. My 1095-B does show the full year coverage from my current employer, but I'm realizing I might not have properly accounted for that transition period.

0 coins

Prev1...805806807808809...5643Next