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I'm going through the exact same thing right now! Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful - I had no idea there were so many nuances to consider beyond just "did I make money or not." What really stands out to me from this discussion is that filing seems to be a "better safe than sorry" situation. Even if you're not required to file with zero income, there are so many potential benefits (refundable credits, documentation for aid programs, getting back any withheld taxes) and basically no downside other than the time investment. I'm definitely going to try that IRS Free File tool that was mentioned. The idea that it walks you through everything and automatically calculates whether you need to file based on your specific situation sounds perfect for someone like me who's been overthinking this whole process. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - especially hearing about people who discovered they qualified for credits or refunds they never knew about even with no traditional income. That alone makes it worth spending an hour to file, even if I end up owing nothing and getting nothing back.
I'm so glad this discussion has been helpful for you! It really shows how valuable it is when people share their real experiences rather than just repeating generic advice. One thing I'd add that might make you feel even more confident about moving forward - since you're in the same situation as the original poster with no income, you're in one of the simplest filing scenarios possible. Even if you discover you have some small income source you forgot about, the Free File software is designed to handle these situations smoothly. I'd also suggest bookmarking this thread or taking notes on the key points people mentioned (like checking for marketplace insurance, unemployment benefits, gig work, etc.) so you can make sure you're thinking through all the possibilities as you go through the filing process. Having that checklist approach can help ensure you don't miss anything important. You've got this! The fact that you're being proactive and asking questions puts you way ahead of people who just guess or ignore it entirely.
This thread has been incredibly thorough and helpful! As someone who's dealt with tax situations across different income levels, I want to add one more consideration that might be relevant to your situation. If you're planning to make income in 2025 and might owe taxes next year, filing a return for 2024 (even with zero income) can actually work in your favor. Here's why: if you end up owing taxes for 2025 and need to set up a payment plan with the IRS, having a filing history shows compliance and can make the process smoother. The IRS looks more favorably on taxpayers who have consistently filed returns, even in years when they weren't required to. Also, if you're thinking about starting any kind of business or side hustle in 2025, having that 2024 return on file establishes your taxpayer record and can be helpful when you need to prove your tax compliance for things like business loans or contracts. I'd echo what others have said about using the free resources available. The VITA program mentioned earlier is fantastic, and many libraries also offer free tax prep assistance during tax season. Don't let the fear of complexity stop you from potentially getting money back or establishing that important paper trail. The bottom line everyone's arrived at is solid: when you're unsure and the cost is just time, file. The potential benefits far outweigh the minimal effort involved, especially with all the free tools and assistance available.
This is such a valuable perspective that I hadn't considered before! The idea that filing now could help establish a good relationship with the IRS for future years when I might actually owe taxes is really smart long-term thinking. I'm actually hoping to get back on my feet financially in 2025 and maybe start some freelance work, so having that filing history could definitely be beneficial down the road. It's interesting how something as simple as filing a zero-income return now could make things smoother later if I need to work with the IRS on payment plans or prove tax compliance. This whole discussion has really shifted my perspective from "do I have to?" to "why wouldn't I?" The combination of potential immediate benefits (credits, refunds, documentation) plus these longer-term advantages makes filing seem like such an obvious choice. Plus knowing there are free resources like VITA and library assistance makes it feel much more accessible. Thanks for adding that forward-looking angle - it's a great reminder that tax decisions aren't just about the current year but can impact your overall taxpayer standing going forward.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of getting proper documentation upfront. When working with ITIN contractors, make sure you have them complete Form W-9 with their ITIN clearly listed. This protects you if there are any questions later about proper reporting. Also, keep detailed records of the work relationship - contracts, invoices, proof of payment, communication showing they control how/when work gets done. The IRS loves documentation during audits, especially for contractor relationships that might seem questionable on the surface. I learned this the hard way when I got selected for a random audit last year. Having all my contractor documentation organized and readily available made the process much smoother than it could have been.
This is such great advice! I'm just starting to work with contractors and had no idea about the W-9 requirement for ITIN holders. Quick question - when you say "proof of payment," do you mean just bank records showing the transfers, or do you need something more formal? Also, how detailed should the communication records be? I tend to have a lot of informal back-and-forth via text/email about project details.
@Isabella Costa For proof of payment, bank records showing the transfers are usually sufficient, but I d'recommend also keeping copies of invoices and any payment confirmations from your payment platform. The key is showing a clear paper trail that matches your 1099 reporting. As for communication records, you don t'need to keep every casual text, but do save emails/messages that show: 1 You) re'giving them project outcomes rather than step-by-step instructions, 2 They) re'setting their own schedule/deadlines, 3 They) re'using their own methods/tools. The informal back-and-forth is fine as long as you re'not micromanaging how they complete the work. I actually create a simple folder for each contractor with their W-9, contract, key emails, invoices, and payment records. Takes 5 minutes to organize but saves hours if you ever need to prove the relationship was legitimate.
Something that really helped me navigate the ITIN contractor situation was understanding the backup withholding rules. If your contractor with an ITIN doesn't provide proper documentation or if there are issues with their taxpayer ID verification, you might be required to withhold 24% of payments for backup withholding. This is different from the treaty-based withholding that applies to foreign contractors. For ITIN holders who are US residents, backup withholding can kick in if the IRS notifies you that the ITIN is incorrect or if the contractor fails to provide their taxpayer ID number properly. Make sure to verify the ITIN format is correct (it should start with 9 and have specific number patterns) and keep records of your verification attempts. The IRS TIN Matching system can help verify ITINs for businesses, though it's not always real-time. Also worth noting - if you're paying an ITIN contractor who's a US resident more than $600 in a year, you absolutely need to issue that 1099-NEC by January 31st, just like with SSN contractors. The ITIN goes in the same box where you'd normally put an SSN.
This is really helpful info about backup withholding - I had no idea about the 24% requirement! Quick question: if you do have to withhold the 24% for backup withholding, how do you actually send that money to the IRS? Is it similar to payroll tax deposits, or is there a different process for contractor backup withholding? Also, do you still issue the full amount on the 1099-NEC or do you show the net amount after withholding?
Just to add some clarity on the session method - I had a similar situation with multiple sportsbooks last year and was initially overwhelmed by hundreds of individual transactions. What really helped was understanding that you can define a "session" however makes sense for your gambling pattern, as long as you're consistent. For online sports betting, I grouped mine by calendar day since I typically would place several bets throughout a day. Some people group by the time they log in and out of the app. The key is documenting your method and sticking to it. One important thing to note: even though you calculated a net profit of $5,400.66, you still need to report the GROSS winnings of $33,862.41 on your tax return. The $28,461.75 in losses can only offset this if you itemize deductions on Schedule A. Also, make sure you're not double-counting anything in your calculations. Sometimes deposits can get confusing if you're looking at account balance changes versus actual bet outcomes. The transaction log should clearly show "bet placed," "bet won," and "bet lost" which are the key data points for tax purposes. Keep those FanDuel records organized - if you ever get audited, having clean documentation of your session method will be crucial!
This is really helpful! I'm new to all this tax stuff and have been putting off dealing with my gambling records because it seemed so complicated. Your explanation about grouping by calendar day makes a lot of sense - I was trying to figure out individual bet tracking and it was a nightmare with all the live betting I did during games. Quick question though - when you say "gross winnings," does that include the original bet amount I got back when I won? Like if I bet $100 and won $150 total (my $100 bet plus $50 profit), is my "gross winnings" $150 or just the $50 profit portion? Also, did you end up itemizing or taking the standard deduction? I'm trying to figure out if it's worth itemizing just for the gambling losses or if I should just eat the tax on the full winnings amount.
Great question! For your example, if you bet $100 and won $150 total back, your "gross winnings" for tax purposes would be the $50 profit portion, not the full $150. The $100 you got back is just your original wager being returned - that's not income. Think of it this way: if you bet $100 and lose, you have a $100 gambling loss. If you bet $100 and win $150 total, you have $50 in gambling winnings (the $150 minus your $100 wager). The sportsbook transaction logs should show this clearly as your "net win" or "profit" for each bet. Regarding itemizing vs standard deduction - it really depends on your total itemized deductions. For 2023, the standard deduction was $13,850 for single filers. If your gambling losses plus other itemizable expenses (state/local taxes, mortgage interest, charitable donations, etc.) exceed that amount, then itemizing makes sense. Otherwise, you're better off taking the standard deduction even though you can't offset the gambling winnings. I ended up itemizing because my gambling losses plus my state income taxes and mortgage interest pushed me over the standard deduction threshold. But definitely run the numbers both ways to see what works better for your situation!
This is a really common confusion point that I see all the time! You're absolutely right to report the $5,400.66 as your net gambling income, but there's an important distinction in how the IRS wants you to report it. You'll actually need to report your TOTAL winnings of $33,862.41 as income on Form 1040 (line 8b for gambling winnings). Then, if you choose to itemize deductions on Schedule A, you can deduct your gambling losses of $28,461.75 (but only up to the amount of your winnings). Your $4,100 in deposits are NOT considered losses - they're just the money you transferred to play with, similar to exchanging cash for chips at a casino. The actual gambling losses are the $28,461.75 from bets you lost. So your tax impact depends on whether you itemize: - If you itemize: You report $33,862.41 in winnings and deduct $28,461.75 in losses, netting to taxable income of $5,400.66 - If you take the standard deduction: You report $33,862.41 in winnings with no offset, so you pay tax on the full amount Make sure to keep all your FanDuel transaction records well-organized by session as you've done - that documentation will be crucial if you're ever audited. The session method is perfectly valid and much more practical than tracking individual bets!
This is exactly the kind of clear breakdown I needed! I've been stressing about this for weeks. Just to make sure I understand correctly - even though my net profit was only $5,400.66, I still have to report the full $33,862.41 as income and can only get relief from the losses if I itemize deductions? That seems like it could really hurt people who have modest gambling activity but take the standard deduction. In my case, I'm probably better off itemizing since my losses are so substantial, but I can see how someone with smaller amounts might get stuck paying tax on gross winnings with no offset. Thanks for confirming that my session method approach is valid too - I was worried I was doing something wrong by grouping transactions by day rather than tracking every individual bet. The FanDuel logs have hundreds of entries and organizing by session made it so much more manageable. One last question - do I need to attach the FanDuel transaction logs to my tax return, or just keep them for my records in case of an audit?
This thread has been incredibly enlightening! I've been struggling with the exact same confusion about my paycheck for the past few months. Like so many others here, I was convinced my employer was making calculation errors because my pension contributions were labeled as "pre-tax" but weren't reducing my FICA taxes. The explanation about different categories of pre-tax deductions finally made everything click. I had no idea that Section 125 cafeteria plan deductions (like health insurance and HSA contributions through payroll) get more favorable tax treatment than retirement contributions. This is definitely going to influence my benefits decisions going forward. What really resonates with me is the point about building a higher Social Security earnings record. While it's frustrating to pay more in FICA taxes now, at least those contributions are going toward my future benefits rather than just disappearing. It helps reframe the "extra" taxes as forced retirement savings. I'm planning to review all my benefit elections during the next open enrollment period to maximize those Section 125 deductions. The HSA payroll contribution strategy alone could save me hundreds in FICA taxes annually compared to direct contributions. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and expertise - this community has been way more helpful than my company's HR department! It's also reassuring to know from the payroll professional who commented that this confusion is extremely common. Makes me feel much less foolish about not understanding these tax distinctions sooner.
I'm so glad this thread has been helpful for you too! It's amazing how many of us have been dealing with this exact same confusion. Your plan to review benefit elections during open enrollment is smart - I wish I had understood these distinctions earlier in my career. The HSA payroll contribution strategy you mentioned is definitely worth pursuing. That 7.65% FICA tax savings really adds up, especially if you're contributing the maximum annual amount. I made the switch from direct HSA contributions to payroll deductions last year and the difference in my take-home pay was immediately noticeable. What I found helpful was actually calculating the annual savings difference between the two methods before making the change. For someone contributing the 2025 HSA maximum ($4,300 for individual coverage), switching from direct contributions to payroll deductions saves about $329 per year just in FICA taxes alone, plus whatever your income tax savings are. It's basically free money just for changing how you contribute! The reframing of FICA taxes as "forced retirement savings" has really helped my mindset too. Instead of feeling frustrated about paying those taxes, I try to think of it as building my future Social Security benefit base. Not that it makes the current paycheck any bigger, but at least there's a long-term benefit to it.
This entire discussion has been a game-changer for my understanding of payroll taxes! I've been in the same boat as Diego and so many others here - staring at my pay stub wondering why my "pre-tax" pension contributions weren't reducing ALL my taxes. What really opened my eyes was learning about the distinction between regular pre-tax deductions and Section 125 cafeteria plan deductions. I had no idea that my health insurance premiums were getting better tax treatment than my 401(k) contributions! This explains why some of my coworkers have been so enthusiastic about maxing out their HSA contributions through payroll. The explanation about building a higher Social Security earnings record helps me feel better about those extra FICA taxes too. Instead of seeing it as paying more than I should, I can think of it as investing in my future benefits. Still stings the current paycheck, but at least there's a long-term payoff. I'm definitely going to use this knowledge during my next benefits enrollment period. Switching my HSA contributions from direct payments to payroll deduction alone could save me several hundred dollars per year in FICA taxes. And now I understand why my benefits coordinator always emphasizes maximizing those "cafeteria plan" elections - they really are the premium version of pre-tax deductions. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and especially the payroll professional who confirmed this confusion is incredibly common. It's reassuring to know I'm not the only one who found these tax distinctions confusing!
This thread has been absolutely fantastic! As someone who's relatively new to understanding payroll taxes, I was completely lost about why my pension contributions seemed to only reduce some taxes but not others. Reading through everyone's experiences has been like getting a masterclass in payroll taxation. The HSA payroll vs direct contribution insight is huge for me - I've been making direct contributions to my HSA for the past two years without realizing I was missing out on FICA tax savings! That's potentially hundreds of dollars I could have saved. Definitely switching to payroll deduction as soon as I can. I really appreciate how this community breaks down complex tax concepts in understandable terms. The distinction between "pre-income-tax" and "pre-all-taxes" deductions makes so much more sense than the confusing "pre-tax" umbrella term that gets thrown around. It's clear that employers and benefits departments could do a much better job explaining these nuances during enrollment periods. The perspective shift about FICA taxes building future Social Security benefits is also really helpful. Instead of feeling frustrated about paying "extra" taxes, I can view it as mandatory retirement savings with a future payoff. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion - you've saved me from months of confusion and potentially helped me optimize my benefits elections!
Freya Christensen
That envelope you described with the DC PO Box address and "Immediate Response Requested" marking is definitely your SBTPG refund card! I got the exact same one about a month ago and had the same confusion. The "Member FDIC BANK" and "Do Not Bend" are standard for prepaid debit cards. Your refund money is already loaded on there - you just need to activate it online or by calling the number that'll be on the card. The "Immediate Response Requested" sounds scary but it just means "please activate this card when you get it" - nothing urgent. Activation took me about 5 minutes on their website and then I could access my full refund right away. Don't stress about it, this is totally normal for SBTPG!
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Sasha Reese
ā¢This is so helpful! I was literally staring at that same envelope for days trying to figure out what it was. The "Immediate Response Requested" part really threw me off - made it sound like some kind of urgent government notice or something I had to respond to immediately. Really glad to hear it's just the standard way they send out these refund cards and that the activation is quick and easy. Thanks for sharing your experience!
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Andre Lefebvre
That envelope is 100% your SBTPG refund card! I got the exact same one from that DC address (PO BOX 98285) with all those same markings - "Immediate Response Requested," "Do Not Bend," and "Member FDIC BANK." I was confused too at first because it looks so official and formal. The "Immediate Response Requested" just means you need to activate the card once you open it - not that there's any emergency or urgent issue. Your refund money should already be loaded on the card. Just open it up and follow the activation instructions inside (you can do it online or by phone). The whole process took me about 5 minutes and then I had full access to my refund. This is totally normal for SBTPG - they always send their prepaid debit cards in these official-looking envelopes. Don't stress about it, your money is sitting right there waiting for you to activate it! š°
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Max Reyes
ā¢Thanks for the detailed explanation! This is exactly what I needed to hear. I've been so paranoid about opening that envelope because it looked so official and government-like. Really appreciate you confirming it's just their standard way of sending refund cards. Going to activate it right now - been waiting way too long for this refund! š
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