IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

AstroAlpha

•

Mail processing is unpredictable. Consider amended return. File electronically next time. Use specific brokers with electronic reporting. Worth the switch. Might save weeks next year.

0 coins

Carmen Flores

•

I went through this exact same thing two years ago with my investment income. Had to mail in my 1099-B forms and it was honestly one of the most stressful tax seasons I've ever had. The waiting is brutal because you have no idea what's happening behind the scenes. My timeline was about 8 weeks total - 6 weeks before I saw any movement on my transcript (code 150 initially, then 570 for processing hold), and then another 2 weeks before the refund actually hit my account. The most nerve-wracking part was that "processing hold" period where you're not sure if something's wrong or if it's just normal. One thing that helped me was setting up informed delivery with USPS so I could track if any notices were coming from the IRS. Didn't get any, but at least I knew I wasn't missing important mail. Also, definitely check your transcript like others mentioned - it updates way before Where's My Refund does when there are paper forms involved. Hang in there! The wait sucks but it's unfortunately just how the system works with mailed forms. Your refund will come eventually.

0 coins

Alfredo Lugo

•

Thanks for sharing your experience! This is exactly what I needed to hear. The 8-week timeline you mentioned lines up with what others are saying, so at least I know what to expect now. I'm definitely going to set up that informed delivery thing you mentioned - I hadn't thought of that but it makes total sense for peace of mind. Did you end up getting your full refund amount, or did they adjust anything because of the investment income? I'm a little worried they might find some discrepancy I missed.

0 coins

Thank you all SO MUCH for the explanations! I see exactly where I went wrong now. I was applying the phaseout percentage to the total interest paid ($4,200) rather than to the maximum allowable deduction ($2,500). So the correct calculation is: 1. Cap the interest at $2,500 2. Calculate the phaseout: $2,500 Ɨ 0.233 = $583 3. Deduction after phaseout: $2,500 - $583 = $1,917 That's closer to the $1,667 option than any other choice, which explains why my answer was marked wrong. The test might have used slightly different rounding or a different phaseout range for the year. I feel a bit silly now because looking back at the IRS instructions, it does clearly state to apply the phaseout to the lesser of the actual interest or $2,500. I guess I was overthinking it!

0 coins

Andre Dupont

•

Don't feel silly at all! This is one of the most commonly misunderstood calculations in tax preparation. Even some professional preparers get it wrong. The important thing is that you understand it now, and you'll get it right when it matters on your actual tax return. And congratulations on passing your assessment despite this one question! That shows your overall tax knowledge is solid.

0 coins

Omar Zaki

•

This is such a great example of why tax education is so important! As someone who's been helping community members with tax questions for years, I see this exact confusion about student loan interest deductions all the time. The key takeaway here is that the IRS applies income-based phaseouts to the MAXIMUM allowable deduction amount, not to what you actually paid. This principle applies to many other tax benefits too - like the child tax credit, education credits, and retirement account contribution deductions. One tip for anyone studying for tax assessments or certifications: when you see a phaseout calculation, always ask yourself "what is the base amount being phased out?" It's usually the maximum benefit amount, not the underlying expense. And @AstroAdventurer, don't beat yourself up about this! The fact that you're taking the time to understand where you went wrong shows you'll be an excellent tax professional. These kinds of detailed calculation questions are designed to test your understanding of the nuances in tax law.

0 coins

Omar Fawzi

•

This is such valuable insight, thank you! As someone new to tax preparation, I really appreciate how you've highlighted that this phaseout principle applies across different tax benefits. I'm curious - are there any other common calculation mistakes that trip people up during tax assessments? I want to make sure I'm not making similar errors with other credits and deductions. The way you explained looking for the "base amount being phased out" is really helpful and seems like it could apply to so many situations. It's reassuring to know that even experienced preparers sometimes get these details wrong. Makes me feel less intimidated about learning all these complex rules!

0 coins

Niko Ramsey

•

This has been an incredibly thorough discussion! As someone who's dealt with similar capitalization questions on rental properties, I wanted to add a few practical considerations for your $135k roof coating situation. First, regarding the timing pressure you mentioned - while it's tempting to rush into a decision for your financial projections, the IRS generally allows you to make elections and accounting method changes even after the initial filing (though it may require Form 3115). This gives you some breathing room to wait for your accountant's return and make a fully informed decision. One aspect that hasn't been mentioned is the potential impact on your property insurance and loan covenants. Some lenders have specific requirements about how major improvements are handled for debt service coverage calculations, and your insurance company may adjust premiums based on the improved roof condition. These factors could influence which depreciation approach makes the most sense for your overall financial picture. Also, with a 32-unit building, you might want to consider whether this coating is part of a broader property improvement strategy. If you're planning other major improvements over the next few years, coordinating the timing and tax treatment of all these projects together could optimize your overall tax position. Finally, don't forget to document everything thoroughly - photos of the roof condition before and after, the contractor's assessment, warranty terms, and expected lifespan extension. This documentation will be valuable regardless of which tax treatment you ultimately choose and could be crucial if you're ever audited. The fact that you're being proactive about tax planning on this scale of investment shows great business sense. Take the time to get it right!

0 coins

This is excellent advice about taking the time to get it right rather than rushing into a decision! The point about IRS allowing elections and accounting method changes even after initial filing is really reassuring - it's good to know there's some flexibility there. I hadn't thought about the insurance and loan covenant implications either. That's a really practical consideration that could affect the overall financial impact beyond just the tax treatment. It makes sense that lenders might have specific requirements about how major improvements factor into debt service coverage calculations. Your suggestion about coordinating this with other potential improvements is particularly smart. If there are other major projects planned for the property, the timing and combined tax treatment could create opportunities for better overall optimization. It sounds like taking a holistic view of the property improvement strategy rather than looking at each project in isolation could yield better results. As someone new to this level of real estate investing, I'm really appreciating how this discussion has evolved from a simple "expense vs. depreciate" question into a comprehensive analysis of tax strategy, documentation requirements, state considerations, and even broader business planning. It's clear that successful real estate investment requires thinking several moves ahead rather than just reacting to immediate situations. Thanks everyone for sharing such detailed insights and experiences!

0 coins

This has been such an educational thread! As someone who's been managing rental properties for about 5 years, I wanted to share a slightly different perspective on the documentation angle that might help with your decision-making process. Beyond just documenting the work itself, consider getting a formal assessment from a roofing professional about the roof's condition and remaining useful life both before and after the coating. This kind of third-party professional assessment can be incredibly valuable for supporting whichever tax position you ultimately take. For example, if a roofing professional documents that your original roof had, say, 5-8 years of useful life remaining, and the coating extends that to 15-20 years, you have clear documentation that this is a substantial improvement rather than routine maintenance. This type of professional assessment carries more weight than just the contractor's sales pitch or warranty terms. I learned this lesson the hard way when the IRS questioned a similar expense on one of my properties. Having that independent professional assessment made all the difference in supporting my position that the work was a capital improvement eligible for depreciation rather than just a repair expense. Also, since you mentioned this is an 8-year-old building that was starting to show wear, documenting the specific problems addressed by the coating (even if they weren't major yet) helps establish the necessity and scope of the improvement. The IRS likes to see clear business reasoning behind capital expenditures, especially on this scale. Good luck with your decision - sounds like you're approaching this the right way by gathering information before committing to a specific tax treatment!

0 coins

Navy Federal member here as well! I went through this exact same anxiety a few weeks ago. Filed on Feb 15th and WMR was stuck on "still processing" for what felt like forever. What saved my sanity was checking the IRS transcript online - you can find it at irs.gov/individuals/get-transcript. Look for transaction code 846 which will show your actual direct deposit date, even when WMR hasn't updated. Mine showed a DDD of March 3rd while WMR was still saying "processing." Sure enough, the money hit my Navy Fed account at 12:15 AM on March 3rd, exactly as the transcript predicted. Navy Fed is usually really good about posting IRS deposits right at midnight EST, sometimes even showing them as pending the day before. Don't stress too much about WMR - it's been unreliable this season. The transcript is your best friend for actual timing!

0 coins

This is so reassuring to hear from someone who just went through the same thing! I've been checking WMR obsessively and getting more anxious each day it stays on "still processing." Your timeline gives me hope - filed around the same time as you did. I'm definitely going to check my transcript tonight using that link. It's good to know Navy Fed is reliable with the midnight posting once the IRS actually releases the funds. Thanks for sharing your experience and easing my worries a bit!

0 coins

StormChaser

•

I'm also with Navy Federal and filed around the same time as you! The waiting is definitely nerve-wracking. From my experience and what I've seen from other Navy Fed members here, I'd recommend checking your IRS transcript online at irs.gov/individuals/get-transcript rather than just relying on WMR. Look for transaction code 846 - that will show your actual direct deposit date even when WMR is still stuck on "processing." Navy Fed typically posts IRS refunds right at midnight EST on the scheduled date, and they're pretty good about showing pending deposits 1-2 days ahead of time. The WMR tool has been notoriously unreliable this tax season, but the transcript data is usually spot-on. Also, if you're expecting a larger refund (over $3-4K), consider giving Navy Fed a quick heads-up call about the incoming Treasury deposit to avoid any potential fraud alerts. Hang in there - once the IRS releases your refund, Navy Fed handles their end really well!

0 coins

Thanks for all the detailed info! I just checked my transcript using the link you provided and finally found some answers. I've been so focused on WMR that I didn't even know about transaction code 846. Found it with a date for next Thursday - what a relief to finally have something concrete! I really appreciate you mentioning the fraud alert thing too. My refund is around $3,800 so I'll definitely call Navy Fed tomorrow to give them a heads up. It's so helpful hearing from other Navy Fed members who've been through this recently. The midnight posting time is good to know too - I'll stop checking my account throughout the day and just look in the morning instead!

0 coins

Mia Roberts

•

Have you tried logging into your H&R Block online account? Sometimes you can see the disbursement details there. Or maybe check your email for a receipt from when you filed? I need to figure this out too for next year. Did you specifically request the refund to be transferred to your bank after it hits the Emerald Card?

0 coins

I had this exact same confusion with H&R Block two years ago! Here's what actually happens: when you pay that $42 refund transfer fee, your refund will definitely go to the Emerald Card first - that's how their system works. The IRS sends your refund to H&R Block's temporary account, they deduct their fees, then put the remainder on your Emerald Card. From there, if you set up a transfer to your bank account during filing, it should automatically move to your bank within 1-3 business days. But if you didn't specifically request that transfer, the money will just stay on the Emerald Card. Check your filing paperwork or log into your H&R Block account online to see what transfer option you selected. The automated system is telling you the truth - it goes to the card first, then potentially to your bank depending on your choices.

0 coins

This is really helpful! I'm new to this community and dealing with tax stuff for the first time. Quick question - if someone didn't set up the automatic transfer to their bank during filing, can they still move the money from the Emerald Card to their bank account later? Or are they stuck with keeping it on the card? I'm trying to understand all my options before I file next year.

0 coins

Prev1...803804805806807...5643Next