How to value thousands of vinyl records for charitable donation tax deduction
Just dropped off literally thousands of vinyl records at Goodwill yesterday and now I'm wondering about how to properly value them for my tax deduction. Many of these records have some collectible value (classic rock, jazz from 60s-80s, some limited pressings). I consulted with a local record collector friend who told me that based on the overall collection, it would be smarter to donate them all at once rather than try to sell them individually since I honestly don't have the time or patience to list them all online. I took a quick video of dropping them off and got a donation receipt from Goodwill, but it just shows "thousands of vinyl records" with no valuation. How exactly am I supposed to determine a fair market value for tax purposes? I'm guessing I can't just say they're worth $20 each since that would be a massive deduction. Do I need to get a professional appraisal after the fact? Has anyone done something similar with collectibles?
28 comments


Paolo Longo
The IRS requires different documentation based on the total value of your donation. For non-cash donations, here's what you need to know: For donations valued under $250, you need the receipt from Goodwill which you already have. For donations between $250-$500, you need a written acknowledgment from Goodwill with specific details about the donation. For donations between $500-$5,000, you'll need to complete Form 8283 (Noncash Charitable Contributions) and attach it to your tax return. For donations over $5,000, you generally need a qualified appraisal in addition to Form 8283. For your vinyl collection, I'd recommend creating a detailed inventory listing each record, its condition, and a reasonable fair market value. Research comparable sales on sites like Discogs or eBay (completed sales, not asking prices). Average values are fine for common records, but any truly valuable ones should be documented individually. Take photos of any rare items if you still have them.
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CosmicCowboy
•This is really helpful, but I'm confused about the timing for appraisals. Since the records are already donated, is it too late to get an appraisal? Also, is there a certain threshold where the IRS is more likely to question the valuation?
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Paolo Longo
•No, it's not too late for an appraisal. The appraisal needs to be conducted no earlier than 60 days before the donation and no later than the due date for the tax return. Just make sure you have good documentation like your video and any photos of the collection before donation. The IRS doesn't have a specific threshold where they automatically question valuations, but they do pay more attention to larger deductions. That's precisely why the documentation requirements increase with the value. If your total deduction for non-cash items exceeds $500, you're statistically more likely to face scrutiny, which is why proper documentation is crucial.
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Amina Diallo
After going through something similar with my comic book collection last year, I found this amazing tool called taxr.ai (https://taxr.ai) that helped me document everything properly. I was worried about how to value everything correctly, but their system helped me categorize each item and assign appropriate values based on condition. They even have specific guidance for collectibles like vinyl records. The best part was that it created all the documentation I needed for the IRS, including the Form 8283. Super easy to use and saved me from potentially making mistakes that could have triggered an audit. Definitely worth checking out for your vinyl collection situation.
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Oliver Schulz
•How exactly does it work for something like vinyl records? Do you have to input every single record or can you do it by categories? I have a huge baseball card collection I'm thinking about donating and wondering if this would work for that too.
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Natasha Orlova
•Sounds interesting but seems like it might be overkill for something that's already been donated? Does it still work if you've already dropped everything off and don't have detailed photos of each item?
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Amina Diallo
•For vinyl records, you can actually do both individual entries and batch categorization. For common records, you can group them (like "25 common 1970s rock albums in good condition") and assign a reasonable value. For rarer items, you'd want to enter them individually. It would absolutely work for baseball cards too - they have specific collectible categories. Yes, it still works even after donation! You'll need to provide whatever documentation you have (your receipt, the video you mentioned, any photos you might have taken before), and the system helps you reconstruct a reasonable inventory. The tool is specifically designed to help in situations where you might not have perfect documentation but need to create a defensible valuation for tax purposes.
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Natasha Orlova
I was skeptical about using taxr.ai at first, but I ended up trying it for a large book collection I donated last year. It was surprisingly straightforward! The system walked me through categorizing my books (first editions, paperbacks, etc.) and suggested reasonable value ranges based on current market data. When I filed my taxes, I felt confident about my deduction amount and had proper documentation ready. They even helped me understand which form to use (Form 8283) and how to fill it out correctly. My tax return was accepted without any issues. If you're dealing with thousands of records like I was with books, it's definitely worth checking out.
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Javier Cruz
If you're trying to get validation from the IRS about your vinyl record valuation, good luck actually reaching anyone! I tried calling them about a similar donation question last year and spent HOURS on hold. I finally discovered Claimyr (https://claimyr.com) which got me through to an actual IRS agent in under 45 minutes. You can see how it works here: https://youtu.be/_kiP6q8DX5c The agent I spoke with explained exactly what documentation I needed for my donation and how to properly value collectibles. They confirmed that I didn't need an expensive formal appraisal since my items were under the $5,000 threshold, but I did need to complete Form 8283 and have good documentation of how I determined the values. Saved me a ton of worry and potentially avoiding problems down the road.
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Emma Wilson
•How does this actually work? Seems kinda sketchy that they could somehow get you through the IRS phone system when nobody else can. Do they have some special backdoor access or something?
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Malik Thomas
•Yeah right. No way this actually works. I've been trying to reach the IRS for weeks about my refund. If this actually worked everyone would be using it and the IRS would shut it down. Sounds like a scam to get your money.
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Javier Cruz
•It's not sketchy at all - they use a completely legitimate callback service that works with the IRS phone system. There's no backdoor or special access. They basically wait on hold for you and then call you when they reach an agent. The IRS actually allows this type of service since it helps manage their call volume. I was totally skeptical too until I tried it. They don't promise instant access - just that you won't have to personally sit on hold. In my case, I got a call back in about 40 minutes, which was far better than the multiple hours I wasted trying myself. It's a legitimate service that many tax professionals actually use. They don't do anything that bypasses normal IRS procedures - they just take the waiting part off your plate.
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Malik Thomas
I need to apologize for my skeptical comment earlier. After getting frustrated with yet another failed attempt to reach the IRS, I actually tried Claimyr out of desperation. I'm shocked to admit it actually worked perfectly. I got a call back in about 35 minutes connecting me with an IRS representative who answered all my questions about a missing refund. The agent was really helpful and even found that there was a processing error on my return that I wouldn't have discovered otherwise. Would have saved me weeks of stress if I'd just tried this sooner instead of being so cynical about it. Sometimes the things that sound too good to be true actually do work!
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NeonNebula
For your vinyl records, I'd recommend using the Discogs website to establish fair market values. It's what most collectors use, and the IRS would consider it a reliable source for establishing FMV. You can search by artist, album, pressing, etc. Look at actual sold prices, not just what people are asking. For bulk records of common albums, maybe $3-5 each is reasonable. For anything more collectible, you'll want individual valuations. Just make sure you document your methodology for arriving at the values. A spreadsheet with your collection and how you determined each value would be ideal documentation.
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Keisha Johnson
•Thanks for the Discogs suggestion! Do you know if I should be using the median value shown there or the lowest recent sale? Also, would it be reasonable to apply some kind of condition-based discount since many of my records were well-played?
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NeonNebula
•I'd use the median value for records in similar condition to yours rather than just the lowest sale. Discogs has condition ratings (Mint, Near Mint, Very Good Plus, etc.), so try to match your records' condition to those ratings and then find corresponding sales. Absolutely apply condition-based adjustments. Records in played condition are worth significantly less than mint copies. This actually strengthens your case with the IRS because it shows you're being reasonable and conservative with your valuation. Just document your condition assessment process clearly - maybe even use the standard condition grading terminology that collectors use (VG, VG+, etc.) to show you're following industry standards.
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Isabella Costa
Umm, I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this yet, but make sure your itemized deductions will exceed the standard deduction amount before going through all this trouble. For 2025, the standard deduction is $14,000 for singles and $28,000 for married filing jointly. Unless your vinyl donation plus other itemized deductions (mortgage interest, state taxes, medical expenses, other donations) exceed those amounts, all this documentation won't actually benefit you taxwise.
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Ravi Malhotra
•Good point! I made this exact mistake last year with a big donation. Spent hours documenting everything only to realize my total itemized deductions were still way below the standard deduction. Complete waste of time.
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Isabella Oliveira
•@Isabella Costa That s'a really important point that could save a lot of people unnecessary work! Quick question though - can you carry forward unused charitable deductions to future years if you don t'itemize this year? I m'wondering if it might still be worth documenting everything properly even if I take the standard deduction this time around, in case I have more itemized deductions next year.
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Sara Unger
•@Isabella Oliveira Unfortunately, you can t'carry forward unused charitable deductions to future years like you can with some other types of deductions. Charitable contributions are a use "it or lose it situation" - they only benefit you in the tax year you make the donation and only if you itemize that year. However, there are some strategies to consider: you could bunch your charitable donations into alternating years to push your itemized deductions above the standard deduction threshold, or if you re'planning other major deductible expenses like (medical procedures or home improvements ,)you might time everything for the same tax year.
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Carmen Reyes
Just wanted to add something that might help with your situation - I went through a similar process with a large collection donation last year. One thing I learned is that the IRS actually has specific guidance in Publication 561 about valuing donated property, including collectibles like vinyl records. The key principle is "fair market value" - what a willing buyer would pay a willing seller for the item in its current condition. For vinyl records, this means considering not just the title and artist, but also the pressing, label, condition, and current market demand. I found it helpful to create categories: common records ($2-5 each), moderately collectible ($5-15), and truly rare items (individual research required). Since you mentioned having a video of the drop-off, that's actually great documentation. If you can identify specific albums or artists in that video, it could help support your valuation methodology. Also, keep in mind that Goodwill's typical resale price is often a good baseline for FMV since that's essentially what the market will bear for donated items. The documentation requirements others mentioned are spot-on, but don't let the paperwork scare you. As long as you're reasonable and can explain your methodology, you should be fine. Good luck with your taxes!
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NebulaNinja
•This is really comprehensive advice! I'm curious about the Publication 561 you mentioned - does it have specific examples for vinyl records or just general collectibles guidance? Also, when you say Goodwill's typical resale price is a good baseline, how do you actually find out what they typically sell similar items for? Do they publish that information somewhere or did you have to visit stores to research it? I'm dealing with a similar situation but with vintage books, so I'm wondering if the same principles would apply. The categorization approach you described sounds like it would work well for books too.
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Fatima Al-Maktoum
•@Carmen Reyes Publication 561 doesn t'have vinyl-specific examples, but it covers collectibles generally with principles that apply perfectly to records. The guidance focuses on condition, rarity, and current market demand - all key factors for vinyl valuation. For Goodwill pricing research, I actually visited several local stores and checked their vinyl sections to see typical pricing $2-8 (for most albums .)You can also check their online auction site shopgoodwill.com for completed sales of similar items. Some Goodwill stores even have standardized pricing guides they follow. Your vintage books situation would definitely follow the same principles! Books might actually be easier since you can often find ISBN numbers and check current used book prices on Amazon, AbeBooks, or similar platforms. The categorization approach works great - common paperbacks, hardcover first editions, rare/out-of-print titles, etc. Just make sure to document condition ex-library (books are worth less, book club editions vs. first editions, etc. the) same way you would with vinyl condition ratings.
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CosmicCruiser
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the importance of timing with your documentation. Since you already donated the records, you're actually in a good position legally - the IRS allows appraisals to be done up to the tax filing deadline, not just before donation. However, I'd strongly recommend starting your documentation process ASAP while the donation is still fresh in your memory. Try to recreate as much detail as possible from that video you took - even general categories like "approximately 200 classic rock albums from the 70s" or "50+ jazz records from the Blue Note era" can help establish reasonable valuation ranges. Also, don't forget that your friend who advised you on the collection could potentially serve as a witness to the collection's general quality and scope. While they're not a certified appraiser, their knowledge could support your valuation methodology if questions arise. The IRS appreciates when taxpayers can demonstrate they made good-faith efforts to determine fair market value using reasonable methods. One last tip: if your total charitable contributions for the year (including this donation) exceed 20% of your adjusted gross income, there are additional limitations to consider. Most people don't hit this threshold, but with a collection worth thousands, it's worth checking.
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Keith Davidson
•This is really helpful timing information! I'm in a similar situation with a large donation I made recently. You mentioned the 20% AGI limitation - could you clarify how that works exactly? Is that 20% of your AGI for just charitable contributions, or does it include all itemized deductions? And if you do exceed that threshold, do the excess contributions just disappear or can they be carried forward to future years? I want to make sure I understand this correctly before I spend too much time on documentation.
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Mateo Martinez
•@Keith Davidson The 20% limitation applies specifically to charitable contributions, not all itemized deductions. For most charitable donations to qualified organizations like Goodwill, you can deduct up to 50% of your AGI in a single year. However, for certain types of property donations like (capital gain property ,)the limit can be 30% or 20% depending on the specifics. The good news is that if you exceed these limits, the excess charitable contributions can be carried forward for up to five years! So unlike regular itemized deductions that are use "it or lose it, charitable" contribution carryforwards give you multiple chances to use them when your income is higher or you have fewer deductions in future years. For a vinyl record donation to Goodwill, you d'typically be under the 50% AGI limit unless it s'an absolutely massive collection. But it s'definitely worth calculating, especially if you have other significant charitable donations in the same tax year. The carryforward provision makes it worthwhile to document everything properly even if you can t'use the full deduction immediately.
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Mae Bennett
Based on my experience helping clients with similar situations, I'd add that documentation is really your best friend here, even after the fact. Since you have that video of the drop-off, try to go through it frame by frame if possible and make notes about what you can identify - specific artists, album titles, box sets, etc. One approach that works well is creating a "reconstruction inventory" where you list everything you can remember about the collection, organized by categories. For example: "Approximately 150 classic rock albums (Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, Rolling Stones era), mostly from original pressings 1970s-1980s, condition ranging from VG to VG+, estimated value $8-12 each." This shows the IRS you made a good faith effort to be accurate and reasonable. Also worth noting - if any of the records were limited editions, colored vinyl, or had any unique characteristics that you can remember, definitely document those separately. Things like "Original White Album pressing with poster intact" or "Blue Note jazz pressings from 1960s" can justify higher individual valuations and show you understand the collectibles market. The key is being conservative but reasonable. It's better to slightly undervalue than to be aggressive and trigger scrutiny. Your friend's input could actually be valuable here too - maybe ask them to write a brief letter describing the general quality and scope of the collection they advised you on.
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KingKongZilla
•This is excellent practical advice! The "reconstruction inventory" approach sounds much more manageable than trying to remember every single record. I'm wondering though - when you mention asking the friend to write a letter about the collection, does that letter need to follow any specific format or include particular information to be useful for IRS purposes? Also, you mentioned being conservative with valuations to avoid scrutiny. Is there a general rule of thumb for what might be considered "too aggressive" - like if I'm valuing common albums significantly above typical Discogs sold prices, or is it more about the total dollar amount of the deduction that raises red flags? I really appreciate the frame-by-frame video review suggestion. I didn't think about going through it that carefully, but you're right that even partial identification of the collection could really strengthen the documentation.
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