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Another important consideration is that the IRS has actually delayed full enforcement of the $600 1099-K threshold. For 2023 and 2024 tax years, they're using a higher threshold of $5,000 while they work out implementation issues. However, payment processors like Venmo might still issue 1099-K forms at the lower threshold, so you could still receive one even if the IRS isn't fully enforcing it yet. That said, the advice about keeping good records and being able to document that your fantasy league is a personal hobby activity remains crucial. If you do get a 1099-K, don't panic - just make sure you can show this isn't business income. Keep your league charter, entry fee records, and any communication showing this is just friends playing fantasy football together. One more tip: consider rotating who collects and distributes the money each year among different league members. This spreads out the 1099-K risk and prevents one person from consistently appearing to receive large payments that might look like business activity to automated systems.
This is really helpful information about the delayed enforcement! I didn't realize the IRS was still using the higher $5,000 threshold for now. That explains why some people are getting 1099-K forms but not necessarily facing immediate tax consequences. The rotating treasurer idea is brilliant - it's like spreading the risk around the league so no one person looks like they're running a business. Plus it probably makes the league management more fair since different people take turns handling the administrative side. Do you know if there's an official timeline for when the IRS plans to fully implement the $600 threshold, or are they still figuring that out?
The IRS hasn't announced a definitive timeline for full implementation of the $600 threshold yet. They've been pretty vague about it, just saying they're working through "implementation challenges" and want to minimize confusion for taxpayers. My guess is they're waiting to see how the higher $5,000 threshold works out for a couple years before dropping it down. Honestly, this gives fantasy leagues and other casual groups some breathing room to figure out better payment structures. The rotating treasurer approach really does make sense - it also helps with league dynamics since nobody gets stuck being the "bank" every year. Plus if someone moves or drops out of the league, you're not scrambling to transfer all the money management to someone else. I'd recommend keeping an eye on IRS announcements each tax season to see if they provide updates on when the lower threshold might kick in fully.
One thing worth mentioning is that you should also consider how you categorize the payments within Venmo itself. When sending money, Venmo asks whether it's for "goods and services" or if it's personal. Always select the personal option for fantasy football payments, and avoid using business-related descriptions. Also, keep in mind that even if you do everything right to minimize 1099-K issues, you should still maintain good records of your league. Document the recreational nature - things like league rules, roster of participants, entry fees paid by everyone, and evidence that this is just friends having fun rather than any kind of profit-seeking venture. If you're really concerned about the reporting threshold, you might want to consider hybrid payment methods. For example, collect entry fees digitally but distribute winnings through multiple smaller payments spread over time, or mix digital payments with cash for the final payouts. This can help keep individual payment amounts below levels that might trigger automatic business income assumptions.
This is really solid advice about payment categorization! I never thought about how the "goods and services" vs "personal" selection in Venmo could affect whether you get a 1099-K. That seems like such a simple thing that could make a big difference. The hybrid payment approach is interesting too - I could see doing something like collecting entry fees through Venmo (marked as personal) but then doing the big winner payouts in cash at our end-of-season party. That way we get the convenience of digital payments for the upfront collection but avoid the large digital transaction that might trigger reporting. Do you know if there's a difference in how various payment apps handle the "personal" vs "goods and services" designation when it comes to 1099-K reporting? Or do they all pretty much treat it the same way?
Has anyone mentioned quarterly estimated taxes yet? If ur making ANY profit with ur LLC, ur supposed to be paying taxes quarterly, not just at year end. I learned this the hard way and got hit with penalties my first year!!
This is a really good point. The IRS expects you to pay taxes as you earn income, not just once a year. If you expect to owe more than $1,000 in taxes for your business income, you should be making quarterly estimated tax payments.
Just wanted to add something that might help with the quarterly tax situation - if your business had a loss last year (like yours did), you don't need to make quarterly payments for that year. But if you expect to be profitable in 2024, you'll want to start making estimated payments. The safe harbor rule is helpful too - if you pay at least 100% of what you owed last year (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150k), you won't get penalties even if you end up owing more. Since you had no business profit in 2023, your safe harbor amount would just be based on any other income you and your spouse had. Also, don't stress too much about the amendment process. I amended my return last year to add my LLC income and it was pretty straightforward through TurboTax. The key is just making sure you have all your business expenses properly categorized. Keep digital copies of everything - receipts, bank statements, platform fees from Etsy, etc. The IRS is actually pretty reasonable when you're clearly trying to comply and report everything correctly.
This is really helpful information! I'm just getting started with understanding all this tax stuff for my LLC. One quick question - when you say "safe harbor rule," does that mean I should base my 2024 quarterly payments on our 2023 total tax liability (from our joint return), or just on any business income we had in 2023? Since the LLC had a loss, I'm trying to figure out what amount to use for calculating those quarterly payments.
5 My dad started taking social security at 67 while still working part time as a consultant. His big mistake was not realizing how it would affect his tax bracket! He ended up in a higher bracket and actually netted less overall than if he'd waited till 70 when he fully retired. Sometimes the extra SS income can actually hurt you financially if you're not careful.
One thing I'd add to this great discussion - don't forget to consider the "do-over" rule if you change your mind. If you start collecting Social Security and later decide it wasn't the right choice, you have 12 months from your first benefit payment to withdraw your application and pay back everything you received (without interest). This essentially gives you a one-time reset. Also, if you're married, coordinate your claiming strategy with your spouse! The timing of when each spouse claims can significantly impact survivor benefits. Sometimes it makes sense for the higher earner to delay while the lower earner claims early, or vice versa. Given that you're an accountant, you probably already know this, but make sure you're factoring in the time value of money when comparing scenarios. A dollar today is worth more than a dollar in three years, so even though delaying increases your monthly benefit, the total lifetime value calculation can be tricky depending on your investment returns and life expectancy assumptions.
This is really helpful advice about the do-over rule - I had no idea that was even an option! The 12-month window gives some peace of mind when making this decision. As someone just starting to navigate this whole Social Security timing question myself, the coordination aspect with spouses is something I hadn't fully considered either. It sounds like there are so many variables to juggle - taxes, Medicare premiums, survivor benefits, investment returns. Do you happen to know if there are any good resources for running different scenarios with all these factors included? Some of the tools mentioned earlier in this thread sound interesting, but I'm wondering if there are other comprehensive planning resources people have found helpful for this kind of analysis.
I went through this exact same confusion last year! The 898 code really threw me for a loop too. What everyone else has explained is spot on - that $0.00 amount next to "Refund applied to non-IRS debt" is actually great news. It means the IRS automatically checked if your partner owed any money that could be taken from his refund (like unpaid child support, defaulted student loans, back taxes to states, etc.) through their Treasury Offset Program, but they found nothing to collect. So he definitely got his full $1,055 refund! The math works out perfectly: $1,819 withholding minus $764 tax liability equals $1,055. That February 26th date next to code 846 shows when the money was actually sent to his bank account. Those weird future dates like March 2026 are just the IRS using their ancient computer system's processing cycles - they don't mean anything actually happened in the future. I remember staring at similar dates on my transcript thinking I was looking at some kind of time-travel tax return! š Your partner's transcript looks completely normal and healthy. No red flags at all!
Thanks for sharing your experience Jamal! It's so reassuring to hear from someone who went through the exact same confusion. I love how you described it as a "time-travel tax return" š - that's exactly how I felt when I saw those March 2026 dates! It's wild how the IRS can make something as simple as "you got your refund" look so complicated with all these codes and weird dates. I'm definitely saving this thread for future reference in case we run into confusing transcript codes again. Thanks to everyone who helped explain this - you all are lifesavers!
I just wanted to thank everyone who responded to my question! This thread has been incredibly helpful and educational. When I first saw that 898 code on my partner's transcript, I was so worried something was wrong or that money was being taken from his refund for some unknown debt. But thanks to all your explanations, I now understand that: - The 898 code with $0.00 is actually GOOD news - it shows the IRS checked for any debts through the Treasury Offset Program and found none - He got his full $1,055 refund ($1,819 withholding - $764 tax liability = $1,055) - Those weird March 2026 dates are just internal IRS processing cycles, not actual calendar dates - The February 26th date next to code 846 is when the refund was actually sent I had no idea the IRS automatically checks every refund for potential debt offsets - that's actually pretty smart of them, even if their transcript format is confusing as heck! You all have made me feel so much more confident about understanding these documents in the future. The IRS should definitely hire some of you to make their explanations more user-friendly! š Thanks again everyone - this community is amazing! š
Eli Wang
This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my uncle gifted me some Apple stock he'd held for about 8 years. From what I'm reading here, it sounds like I'd qualify for long-term capital gains treatment even if I sell immediately, which is a huge relief since short-term rates would be brutal. One thing I wanted to add that might help others - if you're missing the original purchase documentation, some brokerages will actually provide a "gift basis statement" that shows the cost basis information when stocks are transferred as a gift. I got one from Schwab and it had all the details I needed including the original purchase date and price. Definitely worth asking your brokerage about this specific document if you're having trouble tracking down the information from the original owner. Also, make sure to keep any gift documentation (like transfer confirmations) for your records since the IRS may want to see proof that these were actually gifted shares and not purchased by you directly.
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Giovanni Conti
ā¢This is really helpful information about the gift basis statement! I had no idea that was even a thing. I've been struggling to get documentation for some Microsoft shares my dad gave me last year, and my broker (TD Ameritrade) kept giving me the runaround. I'm definitely going to call them tomorrow and specifically ask about getting a "gift basis statement" - that sounds like exactly what I need. Thanks for sharing that tip! It's frustrating how these brokerages don't always volunteer the most helpful options upfront.
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Lauren Zeb
Great thread everyone! I'm a tax professional and wanted to clarify a few key points that might help others in similar situations: 1. **Holding Period**: As Mohammad correctly mentioned, you inherit the donor's holding period. If your grandmother held the stocks for more than a year, you get long-term treatment regardless of how long you've owned them. 2. **Cost Basis**: You generally take the donor's original cost basis (carryover basis), NOT the fair market value when you received the gift. This is different from inherited assets where you get a "stepped-up basis." 3. **Documentation**: The most important documents you need are: - Proof of the gift transfer (brokerage statements) - Original purchase information (date and price the donor paid) - Fair market value on the gift date (important for certain loss calculations) 4. **Special Loss Rule**: If the stock's value when gifted was LESS than what the donor originally paid, there are special dual-basis rules for calculating losses that can get complicated. One thing I'd add to the great suggestions here - if you're still missing documentation, the IRS allows reasonable estimates based on historical stock prices for the relevant dates, as long as you can document your methodology. But always try to get the actual records first through the methods others have mentioned (brokerages, IRS records, etc.).
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Aiden O'Connor
ā¢Thank you so much for the professional clarification, Lauren! This is exactly the kind of expert insight I was hoping to find. I'm particularly interested in your point about the special loss rule - could you elaborate on what those "dual-basis rules" mean in practice? For example, if my grandmother bought stocks for $5,000 but they were only worth $3,000 when she gifted them to me, and I later sell them for $2,500, how would that loss be calculated? Is it based on her original $5,000 cost or the $3,000 value when I received them? This scenario is actually pretty close to my situation with some energy stocks she gave me, and I want to make sure I understand the implications before I sell.
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