IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

First time homebuyer credit repayment question - confused about 2008 claim

I'm in a total mess with this first time homebuyer credit situation and need advice. I purchased a home in 2008 but never requested the homebuyer credit on my taxes (or so I thought). I refinanced in 2009 for a lower payment. By 2012-2013, I was struggling and applied for a loan modification with Bank of America but was denied because they said my loan wasn't old enough (only from 2009). I ended up selling the house in 2016 to avoid foreclosure. Was told I didn't need to file taxes that year. Used the money from the sale to buy a new place in 2017. Here's where I'm confused - when I tried to file my 2019 taxes (and then my 2018 taxes), they were rejected because I supposedly need to repay a homebuyer credit. Looking at my 2008 tax record, it shows a loan released on April 15th, but I didn't buy until September 2008. It also says I filed on September 29th and that a refund for the credit was issued around then. When I call the IRS, they won't give me details except that my bank claimed I received the credit when my loan originated in 2008. But if that's true, wouldn't BoA have approved my modification request since the loan would have been considered older? I had no idea about this credit until trying to file my 2019 taxes. I also had some 401k withdrawals in 2013-2014 with huge tax penalties, overpaid taxes in 2012 by about $4,200, and filed 2013 taxes in 2018 through H&R Block but apparently the form wasn't submitted. This is all so confusing and I'm completely blindsided by this homebuyer credit repayment demand. Any help?

Kyle Wallace

•

I remember this credit! The original 2008 version was basically a $7,500 interest-free loan you had to pay back over 15 years. Lots of people got confused because later versions (2009-2010) turned into a true credit you didn't have to repay if you kept your home long enough. What sucks about your situation is that since you sold the home in 2016, the ENTIRE remaining balance would have become due on your 2016 taxes. That's probably why your 2018 and 2019 returns are getting rejected - there's an outstanding balance the IRS is looking for. The fact that BoA mentioned your loan was from 2009 is probably because of the refinance, which is a separate issue from the homebuyer credit. I suggest calling the IRS (I know, painful) and asking specifically about your Form 5405 from 2008 and what the remaining balance is. Then file your 2016 return with that repayment info.

0 coins

Ryder Ross

•

TurboTax has a special section for this credit repayment if that helps. I had to deal with it a few years ago. It's under "Other Tax Situations" I think, and then there's an option specifically for the homebuyer credit repayment.

0 coins

Leo Simmons

•

This is a really complex situation, but it sounds like you definitely received the 2008 First-Time Homebuyer Credit even though you weren't aware of it. The key detail is that September 2008 refund showing up right around your home purchase - that's almost certainly the $7,500 credit. Here's what likely happened: Your tax preparer included Form 5405 on your 2008 return, which triggered the credit. The 2008 version was structured as an interest-free loan requiring $500 annual repayments starting in 2010. The critical issue is that when you sold in 2016, you should have repaid the entire remaining balance (roughly $4,000-4,500) on that year's tax return using Form 5405 Part II. Since you didn't file in 2016, that outstanding balance is now preventing your newer returns from being accepted. Your action plan should be: 1. Get your complete tax transcript for 2008 to confirm the exact credit amount 2. Calculate remaining balance (original amount minus any payments from 2010-2015) 3. File your 2016 return immediately with Form 5405 showing the full repayment 4. Once 2016 is processed, then file your 2018 and 2019 returns The Bank of America loan modification issue is separate - they were likely referring to your 2009 refinance date, not the original mortgage or the tax credit. This is definitely fixable, but you'll need to tackle that missing 2016 return first to clear the IRS block.

0 coins

This is exactly the roadmap I needed! One quick clarification - when you say "calculate remaining balance," do I subtract $500 for each year from 2010-2015, or would the actual repayment amounts show up on my tax transcripts for those years? I'm worried I might have missed some payments without realizing it, which would make the remaining balance higher than expected. Also, is there a specific deadline for filing that 2016 return, or can I still file it now even though it's so late? I'm assuming there will be penalties, but I just want to make sure I can actually get this resolved.

0 coins

One important detail that hasn't been mentioned yet - the IRS also has specific rules for how STR income is treated if you use the property personally for more than 14 days OR 10% of the rental days, whichever is greater. This "personal use" test can affect whether you can deduct all your expenses or if some need to be allocated. For example, if you rent your place 200 days and use it personally 25 days, you'd need to allocate expenses between rental and personal use. This is separate from the active vs passive determination, but it's another layer that affects your tax situation. Also wanted to add - if you're classified as active income, you might be eligible for the Section 199A QBI deduction (up to 20% of qualified business income) which can be a significant tax benefit. This is one reason why proper classification matters so much beyond just the self-employment tax consideration. Keep those time logs detailed - note booking management, guest communications, property inspections, coordinating repairs, etc. The more documentation you have of your material participation, the stronger your position if questioned.

0 coins

Amara Okafor

•

This is exactly the kind of comprehensive overview I needed! I had no idea about the Section 199A QBI deduction potentially applying to active STR income - that could be a game changer for my tax situation. Just to make sure I understand the personal use rule correctly: if I rent my property 150 days and use it personally for 20 days, I'd need to allocate expenses since 20 days exceeds both 14 days AND 10% of rental days (which would be 15 days)? So even though my rental income might be classified as active, I'd still need to split some expenses between business and personal use? I'm definitely going to start keeping much more detailed time logs. It sounds like between the material participation documentation and the potential QBI deduction, proper record-keeping could save me thousands in taxes. Thanks for highlighting these often-overlooked details!

0 coins

Ethan Moore

•

You've got it exactly right! In your example with 150 rental days and 20 personal days, you'd need to allocate expenses since 20 exceeds both the 14-day threshold and the 10% test (15 days). So yes, even with active income classification, you'd still split certain expenses proportionally between business and personal use. The QBI deduction can indeed be substantial - potentially 20% of your qualified business income from the STR activity, subject to income limitations. Combined with proper expense allocation and deductions, active classification often provides better overall tax benefits despite the self-employment tax. One more tip for your time logs: include specific activities like "responded to 3 booking inquiries - 45 minutes" or "coordinated maintenance visit and communicated with guest about access - 30 minutes." This level of detail really strengthens your material participation case and makes it much easier to total your hours accurately at year-end. The intersection of these various STR tax rules can get complex, but getting the classification right from the start will save you headaches later!

0 coins

I went through this exact same confusion last year with my mountain cabin rental! After reading through all these responses, I want to emphasize something that really helped me: the IRS looks at the TOTAL picture of your involvement, not just one factor. In my case, I was spending about 15-20 hours per week during peak season managing everything - guest communications, pricing adjustments, coordinating with my handyman for repairs, restocking supplies, handling booking issues, etc. Even though I hired cleaners, I was clearly doing the substantial management work myself. What really clarified things for me was when I started tracking my time in categories: guest relations (booking responses, check-in coordination, problem resolution), property management (maintenance scheduling, supply runs, inspections), and business operations (pricing strategy, marketing, financial tracking). This helped me see that I was easily meeting the 500+ hour threshold and doing substantially all the business-critical work. One thing I learned the hard way - don't forget to count travel time to/from the property for inspections and maintenance oversight. That time counts toward your material participation hours too! I was initially undercounting my involvement by not including those trips. The active classification ended up saving me money overall even with the self-employment tax, especially once I factored in all the additional business deductions I could take. Keep those detailed logs - they're worth their weight in gold come tax time!

0 coins

This is such a helpful breakdown of how to actually track and categorize your time! I've been doing STR for about 8 months now but haven't been systematic about logging my hours at all. Your point about travel time is something I never would have thought to include - I drive to my property at least twice a week for various reasons. The category approach you mentioned (guest relations, property management, business operations) makes a lot of sense. I think I've been underestimating how much time I actually spend on this because I do a lot of it from my phone throughout the day - responding to messages, adjusting prices based on local events, etc. It adds up way more than I realized. One question: do you track partial hours? Like if I spend 10 minutes responding to a booking inquiry, do you log that or just track bigger blocks of time? I'm trying to figure out the best system before I start implementing this more seriously.

0 coins

This is a pretty common situation with online gambling and PayPal 1099-Ks. The key thing to understand is that the 1099-K just shows your gross payment transactions through PayPal - it doesn't distinguish between deposits you made to gambling sites versus actual winnings you withdrew. Since you're a dependent but received a 1099-K, you do need to file your own return. The good news is that if you truly had a net loss of $2,500, you shouldn't owe any taxes on the gambling activity itself. However, you'll need to report it properly to match what the IRS has on file. I'd recommend using tax software that can handle gambling income (TurboTax Deluxe should work). You'll report your actual gambling winnings as "Other Income" and then you can deduct your losses up to the amount of winnings on Schedule A if you itemize. Since you had a net loss, your gambling income would essentially be zero for tax purposes. Make sure you keep detailed records of all your deposits and withdrawals from these platforms - screenshots, bank statements, anything that shows the money flow. The IRS may want to see documentation if they have questions about how a $14,000 1099-K resulted in zero taxable gambling income.

0 coins

Jean Claude

•

This is really helpful! Just to clarify - when you say "report your actual gambling winnings as Other Income" - does that mean just the net amount I actually won, or do I need to report the gross $14,000 from the 1099-K and then separately show my losses? I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to avoid having to itemize since the standard deduction would probably be better for me as a college student.

0 coins

@Jean Claude That s'a great question! You have a couple of options here. The conservative approach is to report the gross gambling winnings which (would be the total of all your actual wins, not the $14,000 from the 1099-K as) Other Income, then itemize to deduct your losses up to that amount. But you re'right that itemizing probably won t'be worth it for a college student. A simpler approach that many tax pros recommend for net losers is to report your net gambling income as zero since (you lost overall and) attach a statement explaining that the 1099-K includes both deposits and withdrawals, with your actual net gambling result being a loss. This avoids the itemizing issue but make sure you have really good documentation to back up your position. TurboTax should guide you through this, but if you re'unsure, it might be worth having a tax pro review it since 1099-K mismatches can trigger IRS notices if not handled properly.

0 coins

I went through something very similar last year as a college student with sports betting withdrawals to PayPal. The 1099-K reporting can be really confusing because it shows gross transaction volume, not actual winnings. Here's what I learned: Even as a dependent, you do need to file your own return when you receive a 1099-K. The tricky part is that you want to report your actual gambling activity accurately while avoiding an IRS mismatch with the 1099-K they have on file. Since you had a net loss, you technically don't have taxable gambling income. However, you'll want to be careful about how you report this. Some people report the net result (zero in your case) with documentation, while others report gross winnings and itemize losses. The itemizing route usually isn't worth it for college students since you'd give up the standard deduction. My advice: Use tax software that handles this properly (TurboTax Deluxe worked for me), keep excellent records of all your deposits vs withdrawals from the gambling sites, and consider having a tax professional review before filing if the amounts are significant. The documentation is key - you want to be able to clearly show how the $14,000 in PayPal transactions breaks down into deposits vs actual winnings if the IRS ever asks.

0 coins

This is really solid advice! I'm actually dealing with a similar situation right now with DraftKings and Venmo transactions. The documentation aspect can't be stressed enough - I wish I had kept better records from the beginning. One thing I'd add is that if you're using any of the gambling apps, most of them have a transaction history or tax document section where you can download your actual win/loss statements. That can be super helpful to have alongside your PayPal/bank records to show the complete picture to the IRS if needed. @CosmicCaptain did you end up having any issues with the IRS after filing, or did everything go smoothly with the approach you took?

0 coins

Tax Strategy: How a 1031 Exchange Works with the $250k Primary Residence Exclusion - Multiple Questions

Hey everyone, I currently own my house outright (no mortgage) plus a multi-unit rental property that still has a mortgage. I'm planning to sell both properties sometime in the near future since I'm kind of over being a landlord and want to live closer to my job. Here's my situation with the rental: It should be worth around $880k when I sell, I initially paid $575k for it, I've taken about $125k in depreciation, and I'll still owe $340k on the mortgage. After paying selling costs of roughly $65k and the mortgage, I'd walk away with about $475k cash. I'm considering doing a 1031 exchange to buy a single-family rental for approximately $800k, putting 20% down ($160k) and getting an investor loan for the rest. I'd rent it out for 2 years. After that, I'd sell my primary home using the $250k capital gains exclusion. Then I'd move into the rental property, making it my primary residence. I'd live there for 2 more years and then potentially sell it. Let's say by then it's worth $950k with $65k in selling costs. My questions: 1. Would I qualify for the full $250k exclusion? There's $250k gain from the original 1031'd property plus $70k from the new property. Would I just owe depreciation recapture at 25% federal plus state tax? 2. Can I refinance the investor loan to a owner-occupied mortgage after moving in? 3. Does the IRS care if I keep cash by increasing my loan amount in a 1031? 4. For 1031 purposes, does the sold value count as before or after selling fees? 5. If my replacement property costs less than what I sold, how do I calculate the taxes owed? 6. What if instead of the 1031 plan, I just moved into one of the units in my multi-family (it's a 4-unit) for 2 years? Would I get to exclude 25% of the gains (about $70k in this case)? In reality, I might just stay in the final property until retirement (20+ years), but by then my gain would be well over the $250k exclusion (unless I get married and qualify for $500k). I'm trying to minimize real estate transaction costs while maximizing tax advantages. I could also potentially sell directly to another investor for the right price. Thanks for any insights!

Noah Irving

•

I've been reading through all these responses and they're incredibly helpful! As someone who just went through a similar decision process last year, I wanted to share my experience. I was in almost the exact same situation - owned a rental property with significant appreciation and depreciation taken, plus was getting burned out on landlord duties. After running the numbers on multiple scenarios (including the complex 1031 exchange strategy), I ended up going with the multi-family conversion approach that several people here have recommended. Here's what I learned: The tax savings from the elaborate 1031 strategy weren't nearly as significant as they appeared on paper once I factored in all the transaction costs, loan origination fees, property management expenses for the additional 2 years, and the stress/time value of managing such a complex plan. Plus, I was constantly worried about something going wrong - missing a deadline, property values dropping, or tax law changes. Moving into one unit of my duplex was honestly the best decision I made. I immediately cut my landlord responsibilities in half, still have rental income from the other unit, and I'm on track to get the partial capital gains exclusion when I sell. The simplicity alone has been worth it - I can actually plan my life without worrying about IRS deadlines and exchange requirements. One practical tip: Make sure to properly document the conversion date and keep detailed records of which portion of the property becomes your primary residence. The IRS will want clear evidence of the square footage allocation for the partial exclusion calculation. Good luck with whatever you decide, but honestly, sometimes the best tax strategy is the one that actually lets you enjoy your life!

0 coins

This real-world perspective is exactly what I needed to hear! It's so valuable to get feedback from someone who actually went through this decision process recently. Your point about the tax savings not being as significant "on paper vs reality" really resonates - I think I've been getting caught up in the theoretical optimization without fully accounting for all the hidden costs and complexities. The stress factor is something I definitely underestimated. Managing a complex multi-year tax strategy while dealing with tenants, property management, and potential market changes sounds exhausting when you put it that way. I'm already feeling burned out on landlord duties, so adding more complexity probably isn't the right move for my mental health. Thanks for the practical tip about documenting the conversion date and square footage allocation! That's the kind of detail that's easy to overlook but could be crucial if the IRS ever questions the arrangement. I think you've helped push me over the edge toward the multi-family conversion approach. Sometimes the best financial decision is the one that also improves your quality of life, and it sounds like that's exactly what happened in your case. The partial exclusion plus reduced landlord stress seems like a much better outcome than trying to squeeze out every last dollar of tax savings through a complicated 1031 strategy. Really appreciate you sharing your experience - it's exactly the kind of insight that makes these community discussions so valuable!

0 coins

This has been an incredibly thorough discussion! As someone who works in tax preparation, I wanted to add one more consideration that might be helpful for your decision. The IRS has been increasingly scrutinizing 1031 exchanges where the taxpayer converts the replacement property to personal use relatively quickly after the exchange. They're looking for evidence of true investment intent versus what they consider "tax-motivated transactions." The safe harbor is generally 2 years of rental activity, but even then, they may question the arrangement if the conversion seems pre-planned. What's particularly relevant to your situation is that documenting your genuine investment intent becomes critical. If you're already expressing that you're "over being a landlord," that could potentially work against you if the IRS ever audits your exchange and conversion. They look at the totality of circumstances, including your statements about investment motivation. From a practical standpoint, the multi-family conversion really does seem like your best bet. You avoid the 1031 complications entirely, get immediate relief from full landlord duties, maintain some income, and qualify for a meaningful portion of the capital gains exclusion. Plus, there's no question about your intent since you're converting property you already own rather than acquiring new property specifically for conversion. One final thought: given current interest rates and the lending environment, the financing costs for your 1031 strategy could be significantly higher than what you might have calculated based on previous years' rates. This could further erode the net benefits of the complex approach versus the straightforward conversion strategy. Sometimes the tax code rewards simplicity over complexity!

0 coins

Amara Chukwu

•

Pro tip: check your transcript every Tuesday and Friday morning. Thats when they usually update the system.

0 coins

facts! 5am EST is usually when updates hit šŸ’Æ

0 coins

Mason Stone

•

Thanks for the tip! I've been checking randomly throughout the week but didn't know there was actually a pattern to when they update. Will definitely start checking Tuesday/Friday mornings now šŸ™

0 coins

Olivia Kay

•

I went through ID.me verification last year and it took about 6 weeks for my refund to process after that. The key is to keep monitoring your transcript on irs.gov - you'll see a 971 notice code when they acknowledge your verification, then hopefully a 846 refund issued code a few weeks later. Hang in there, I know the wait is stressful when you need the money!

0 coins

Prev1...791792793794795...5643Next