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Ask the community...

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Isabel Vega

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Don't forget about the Qualified Business Income deduction (Section 199A)! As a self-employed rideshare driver, you can potentially deduct 20% of your net business income. This is ON TOP OF your regular business deductions like mileage or car expenses. Also, make sure you're setting aside money for self-employment taxes. The current rate is 15.3% of your net earnings (to cover Social Security and Medicare taxes that an employer would normally handle).

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Wait, that sounds really important but I've never heard of this 199A thing. Is this something that TurboTax automatically calculates or do I need to specifically claim it somewhere? Also is there an income limit?

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Isabel Vega

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TurboTax should calculate it automatically when you enter your self-employment income, but it's always good to double-check. There are income thresholds where it begins to phase out, but they're quite high ($170,050 for single filers and $340,100 for joint filers in 2025), so most rideshare drivers won't need to worry about that. The calculation is generally straightforward - it's 20% of your qualified business income (your profit after expenses). This deduction directly reduces your taxable income, which can save you a significant amount. It's a relatively new deduction that many self-employed people miss if they're doing taxes without software or professional help.

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Something NOBODY mentioned yet - if you're making decent money with rideshare, you should be making QUARTERLY estimated tax payments! I learned this the hard way and got hit with underpayment penalties. Since you don't have an employer withholding taxes, you're supposed to send estimated payments to the IRS four times a year. The due dates are April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 (of the following year).

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Do you know if there's a minimum amount you need to earn before quarterly payments are required? I only drive part-time and make maybe $500 a month.

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Malik Johnson

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Generally, you need to make quarterly payments if you expect to owe $1,000 or more in taxes for the year. At $500/month ($6,000 annually), you'd probably owe around $900 in self-employment taxes alone (15.3% of net earnings), plus income tax depending on your other income and tax bracket. The safe harbor rule is that if you pay 100% of last year's tax liability through withholding and estimated payments, you won't face penalties (110% if your prior year AGI was over $150,000). So if you had a regular job with withholding that covered most of your tax liability, you might be okay. But honestly, even at $500/month it's probably worth making small quarterly payments just to avoid a big tax bill in April. You can use Form 1040ES to calculate the amount.

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Quick question for anyone who knows - if I have capital loss carryover and also did a Roth conversion this year, can I use the capital losses to offset the income from the Roth conversion? Or does that count as ordinary income subject to the $3000 limit?

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Income from a Roth conversion is considered ordinary income, not capital gains. So you would be limited to offsetting only $3,000 of that conversion income with your capital losses. Capital losses first offset capital gains (without limit), then up to $3,000 can offset ordinary income (like your Roth conversion), and anything beyond that carries forward to future years.

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Thanks for clearing that up! That makes sense - too bad though, was hoping to use more of my losses against the conversion. Guess I'll be carrying these losses forward for a few more years.

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This is such a great question and the answers here are spot on! I went through something very similar last year. Had about $8,000 in carryover losses from some bad stock picks in 2021, then finally had a good year with $5,000 in capital gains. Just to add to what others have said - make sure you keep good records of your carryover losses year to year. I almost lost track of mine and had to dig through old tax returns to reconstruct the carryover worksheet. The IRS doesn't send you a reminder of what you're carrying forward, so it's on you to track it. Also, if you're using tax software, it should automatically calculate this for you once you enter your prior year carryover and current year gains/losses. But it's still good to understand how it works like you're doing. You'll use $7,000 of your carryover against your gains, then $3,000 against ordinary income, leaving you with $0 carryover going into next year. Pretty efficient way to finally clear out those old losses!

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This is really helpful advice about keeping good records! I'm new to dealing with capital loss carryovers and didn't realize the IRS doesn't track this for you. Quick question - when you say "reconstruct the carryover worksheet," where exactly do you find that information on old tax returns? Is it a specific line on Schedule D I should be looking for? I want to make sure I'm carrying forward the right amount this year.

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Adding to what others have said - I went through this exact decision last year for my jewelry business. Started with just the free EIN from IRS.gov as a sole proprietor and it worked perfectly for getting set up on Etsy, Amazon, and even my Square account. The IRS online application literally takes 10 minutes and you get your EIN instantly. No need to pay $425 for an LLC unless you specifically want the liability protection or plan to have employees soon. One tip: when you apply for the EIN, make sure you select "sole proprietorship" as your business type if you're not forming an LLC. The application will ask for your business name - you can just use your legal name or "Your Name DBA [Business Name]" if you want to use a different business name. You can always upgrade to an LLC later if your business grows and the liability protection becomes worth the cost. I'm actually considering it now that my revenue has grown substantially, but starting with just the EIN saved me money in those crucial first months when every dollar counted.

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Chloe Taylor

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This is exactly the advice I needed! I'm in a similar situation with my pottery business and was overthinking the whole LLC thing. Quick question - when you applied for the EIN online, did you run into any issues with the "business name" field? I want to use a different name than my legal name but wasn't sure how to format it properly on the application.

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Just went through this exact process for my woodworking business! You definitely don't need an LLC to get an EIN - I got mine directly from the IRS website in about 15 minutes completely free. The key thing to understand is that platforms like Etsy and Amazon are asking for an EIN for tax reporting purposes, not because you need to be incorporated. As a sole proprietor, you can get an EIN and use it instead of giving out your SSN to every platform and vendor. I started with just the free EIN and have been operating successfully for 8 months now. The liability protection of an LLC is nice to have, but for most craft businesses just starting out, the $425+ cost isn't justified until you're making consistent profit. My recommendation: Get the free EIN from IRS.gov now so you can start selling on those platforms. Once your business is generating steady income (maybe $20K+ annually), then revisit whether the LLC makes financial sense for liability protection and potential tax benefits. You can always form an LLC later and transfer your EIN to it - the IRS allows you to change the business structure associated with your EIN if needed.

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This is really helpful! I'm just getting started with my soap making business and was so confused about all this. Quick question - when you say you can transfer your EIN to an LLC later, does that process cost anything additional with the IRS? Or is it just a matter of updating your business structure with them when you file the LLC paperwork with your state? Also, did you find that having the EIN made setting up business bank accounts easier even as a sole proprietor? I keep reading conflicting info about whether banks require an EIN or if they'll accept just your SSN for business accounts.

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I've been dealing with ESPP tax issues for years and want to clarify a few things based on my experience. The key is understanding that when you purchase ESPP shares at a discount, that discount is typically treated as compensation income and should appear on your W-2 in the year you bought the shares (not when you sold them). If you can find your W-2 from the year you purchased the ESPP shares, look for the discount amount included in your wages. If it's there, then you should definitely use the adjusted cost basis to avoid being taxed twice on the same money. However, if for some reason the discount wasn't included in your W-2 when you purchased (which can happen with some plan structures), then you'd use the regular cost basis and pay tax on the discount as part of your capital gains. The most important thing is to use Form 8949 with the proper adjustment code when your basis differs from the 1099-B. Don't just enter a different number without explanation - that's what triggers those CP2000 notices people mentioned. I'd also recommend keeping detailed records of your ESPP purchases, including purchase dates, discount amounts, and whether those discounts were included in your W-2 income. This documentation will be invaluable if you ever need to justify your basis calculations to the IRS.

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This is incredibly helpful! I'm new to dealing with ESPP taxes and this whole thread has been eye-opening. Your point about checking the W-2 from the purchase year is exactly what I needed to hear. I just looked back at my 2022 W-2 (when I bought the shares I sold in 2023) and I can see the discount amount was indeed included in my wages box. So it sounds like I should definitely use the adjusted cost basis to avoid double taxation. I had no idea about Form 8949 and the adjustment codes - FreeTaxUSA didn't really explain this part clearly. It sounds like I need to make sure I'm documenting the adjustment properly so the IRS systems don't flag it as a mismatch. Thank you for breaking this down in such clear terms!

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Rachel Tao

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I went through this exact same situation last year and ended up having to amend my return because I initially used the wrong basis. Here's what I learned: The key is determining whether the ESPP discount was already taxed as ordinary income. Look at your W-2 from the year you PURCHASED the shares (not when you sold them). If the discount amount is included in your wages, then you should use the adjusted cost basis because you've already paid income tax on that discount. When you file, make sure to use Form 8949 and include adjustment code "B" with a description like "ESPP basis adjustment per broker supplement." This tells the IRS why your reported basis differs from the 1099-B. I also recommend downloading IRS Publication 525 which covers employee stock purchase plans specifically. It clearly explains that if the discount was included in your income when you bought the shares, you don't pay tax on it again when you sell. The good news is that most tax software (including FreeTaxUSA) will handle the Form 8949 adjustments properly if you know to look for that section. Don't just enter the adjusted basis in the regular capital gains section without documenting the adjustment - that's what causes the IRS matching issues people have mentioned.

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This is exactly what I needed to hear! I've been going in circles trying to figure this out. Your advice about checking the W-2 from the purchase year makes perfect sense - I can't believe I didn't think to look there first. I just pulled up my 2022 W-2 and sure enough, there's an additional amount in Box 1 that corresponds to my ESPP discount. The Form 8949 adjustment code tip is gold - I had no idea that was even a thing. I was just planning to enter the adjusted basis directly into FreeTaxUSA without any explanation, which sounds like it would have caused me major headaches later. One quick question: when you say "ESPP basis adjustment per broker supplement," should I be more specific about the actual dollar amount of the adjustment, or is that general description sufficient for the IRS? Thanks for mentioning Publication 525 too - I'm downloading it now to make sure I understand all the nuances before I file.

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Dylan Cooper

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Just wanted to share my recent experience since I was in almost exactly the same situation as OP - hadn't filed for 3 years and lost all my W-2s. I ended up going the Form 4506-T route after the online system wouldn't verify my identity (probably because of the missing filings). The key things that helped me: 1) Make sure to put your own name and address in line 5a to get the unmasked version (as Diego mentioned), 2) Be very specific about which tax years you need, and 3) Allow extra time - mine took about 2.5 weeks to arrive by mail. One thing I learned that wasn't mentioned yet - if you're requesting multiple years, you can list them all on one form rather than submitting separate requests. Just write something like "2021, 2022, 2023" in the tax year section. Saved me from having to send multiple forms. The unmasked transcript ended up being exactly what I needed to reconstruct my tax situation. All employer info was there with full EINs, and it even showed estimated quarterly payments I had forgotten about from some freelance work. Really grateful for all the detailed advice in this thread - it made the whole process much less intimidating!

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Sophia Clark

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This is really helpful, Dylan! Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm curious about the estimated quarterly payments showing up on the transcript - did it show the actual amounts and dates you made those payments? I did some freelance work a few years back and made some quarterly payments but honestly can't remember the exact amounts or timing. It would be amazing if the transcript has all that detail since I definitely don't have records of those payments anymore. Also good to know about being able to request multiple years on one form - that'll definitely save some paperwork!

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Yes, the transcript showed all the quarterly payment details! It listed the exact amounts and the dates the IRS received each payment. It was actually more detailed than I expected - showed not just the payment amounts but also which tax year each payment was applied to. This was super helpful since I had made some payments that were technically for one tax year but paid in the following year, and I couldn't remember how I had designated them. The transcript cleared all that up and helped me figure out exactly what my payment history looked like. Definitely request transcripts for any years where you made estimated payments - it's like having a complete record you didn't know the IRS was keeping for you!

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Ava Thompson

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I just want to echo what Dylan said about the transcript showing quarterly payments - this was a lifesaver for me too! I had completely forgotten about some estimated tax payments I made for 2022 and was panicking thinking I'd have to pay penalties on top of what I already owed. Turns out the IRS had record of everything and the transcript showed not only the payment amounts but also how they applied the credits. One additional tip that helped me: when you're filling out Form 4506-T, use black ink and print clearly. I had to resubmit mine the first time because my handwriting was apparently too messy and they couldn't process it. Also, if you're mailing it in, consider sending it certified mail so you have proof they received it. The whole process was actually much more straightforward than I expected once I got the hang of it. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here - this thread has been incredibly helpful!

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