IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Zara Shah

•

I've been dealing with IRS delays myself and found that persistence with the phone system really does pay off eventually. One thing that helped me was calling the IRS Collections line at 800-829-7650 instead of the main number - it sounds counterintuitive, but when they answer, you can explain that you're calling about a refund delay and they'll often transfer you to the right department. The wait times seemed shorter on this line in my experience. Also, if you're comfortable with it, try reaching out to your local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center. Even though they're not taking walk-ins right now, some locations will take calls and can sometimes provide more detailed information than the national hotlines. One more tip - when you do get through to someone, ask them to put detailed notes in your account about what they find and what they tell you. That way if you need to call again, the next agent can see the history instead of starting from scratch. I learned this the hard way after having to explain my situation multiple times to different agents. The 3-month delay you're experiencing is unfortunately pretty common right now, but don't give up. Your refund will come through!

0 coins

Luca Conti

•

That's a really smart approach using the Collections line! I never would have thought to try that number for a refund issue, but it makes sense that they might have shorter wait times. The tip about asking agents to put detailed notes in your account is gold - I've definitely had the frustrating experience of having to re-explain everything to multiple different representatives. I'm curious about the Taxpayer Assistance Centers taking calls - do you just call the general number for your local office, or is there a specific line for phone consultations? I've been hesitant to try contacting them since I thought they were only doing appointments, but if some are taking calls that could be another avenue to explore. Thanks for sharing the Collections line number - I'm adding that to my list of numbers to try. At this point I'm willing to try any approach that might get me through to an actual human who can help figure out what's going on with my return!

0 coins

Dylan Cooper

•

I went through this exact same nightmare last year and finally got results using a multi-pronged approach. Here's what worked for me: **Phone Strategy:** Call 800-829-1040 at exactly 7:00 AM EST on Tuesday or Wednesday. Press 1 for English, then immediately press 2-1-3-2 without waiting for the prompts to finish completely. When it asks about forms, don't say anything - just wait in complete silence for about 20 seconds and it should transfer you to a live agent. **Documentation Tip:** Before calling, gather your filing confirmation, any IRS notices you've received, and write down your exact filing date. When you do reach an agent, be very specific: "I filed on [date], it's been X days, and I need to know the specific reason for the delay." This gets much better results than just asking "where's my refund?" **Backup Options:** - Try the Taxpayer Advocate Service at 877-777-4778 (mention if the delay is causing any financial hardship) - Call the Collections line at 800-829-7650 and ask to be transferred to refund inquiry - Contact your Congressional representative's office - they have caseworkers who deal with IRS issues **What to Expect:** 3-month delays are unfortunately common right now, especially if your return has certain credits or needs manual review. The agents can see much more detail than the "Where's My Refund" tool shows. Don't give up - persistence really does pay off with the IRS phone system!

0 coins

Demi Lagos

•

This is exactly the kind of comprehensive guide I wish I'd had when I started this frustrating journey! I'm definitely going to try your phone strategy - the specific timing about pressing buttons without waiting for prompts to finish is something I hadn't heard before. I really appreciate you including backup options too. I didn't realize Congressional representatives had caseworkers who specifically deal with IRS issues - that could be a game-changer if the phone approaches don't work out. One quick question about the documentation tip: when you say "filing confirmation," do you mean the email confirmation from tax software, or is there a specific IRS document I should have? I used TurboTax to file, so I have their confirmation, but I'm not sure if that's what the IRS agent would need to reference. Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response - it gives me hope that there's actually a way through this maze!

0 coins

Miguel Ortiz

•

I've been reading through all these suggestions and they're incredibly helpful! As someone who's currently in a similar situation trying to track down old W2s, I wanted to share one additional method that worked for me - checking old credit card and bank account applications. When I was going through my files, I found several old credit applications where I had to list my employment history and income. These applications had employer names, addresses, and even approximate dates of employment that I'd completely forgotten about. Similarly, old loan applications (car loans, personal loans, etc.) often require detailed employment information that can help piece together your work history. I also discovered that some of my old employers were listed as references on rental applications, which helped me remember a couple of short-term jobs from several years ago. It's amazing how much employment information we document in other contexts without realizing it could be useful for tax purposes later. The combination of these records plus the IRS transcripts and state unemployment office suggestions mentioned here should give most people enough information to reconstruct their employment history. Thanks to everyone who's shared their experiences - it's really encouraging to see so many people successfully navigate this process!

0 coins

FireflyDreams

•

That's such a brilliant idea about checking old credit and loan applications! I never would have thought to look there, but you're absolutely right that we list detailed employment information on those forms. I actually just remembered I applied for a car loan in 2022 and had to provide employment verification - I bet those documents are still in my email somewhere. The rental application suggestion is genius too. I moved apartments twice during the years I need W2s for, and I definitely had to provide employment references and income verification for those leases. That could help me remember some of the shorter-term jobs I might have forgotten about. It's really amazing how this thread has evolved into such a comprehensive guide for tracking down employment history. Between the IRS transcripts, state unemployment records, old applications, and all the other suggestions here, it feels like there are enough different approaches that most people should be able to piece together their work history even with poor record-keeping. Thanks for adding another valuable method to the toolkit - I'm feeling much more confident about tackling this process now!

0 coins

Cedric Chung

•

This thread has been incredibly comprehensive! I'm in a very similar situation and have been putting off filing for years due to missing documentation. Reading through everyone's experiences and solutions has given me so much hope that this is actually manageable. I wanted to add one more approach that might help - if you've ever applied for any government benefits or programs (unemployment benefits, food assistance, Medicaid, etc.), those applications typically require detailed employment history and income information. I found my old unemployment application from 2021 that listed employers I'd completely forgotten about, along with their addresses and the dates I worked there. Also, if you have any old tax preparation software receipts in your email (even from years you didn't complete filing), those often contain employer information from when you started entering your data. I found a TurboTax receipt from 2022 that reminded me of a part-time job I'd had. The combination of all these methods - IRS transcripts, state unemployment records, old applications, VITA assistance, and document archaeology through emails and files - really does provide multiple paths to reconstruct your employment history. It's reassuring to know there are so many people who've successfully navigated this process and gotten caught up. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences and creating such a helpful resource for those of us trying to get our tax situations straightened out!

0 coins

Honestly might be worth checking if any of these places offer free consultations first. I've heard some will at least look over your docs and give you a rough estimate of complexity/cost before you commit. That way you can shop around without getting locked into their fees upfront.

0 coins

Avery Saint

•

That's solid advice! Most people don't realize you can get quotes from multiple places. I'd also suggest asking upfront what their guarantee policy is if they make an error - some places will cover penalties/interest while others leave you hanging 😬

0 coins

Carmen Ruiz

•

Just want to add that regardless of which chain you choose, bring ALL your documents organized beforehand. I've seen people get charged extra fees just because they showed up unprepared and the preparer had to spend more time sorting through their stuff. Also, double-check everything before you sign - these places can get busy during tax season and mistakes happen more often when they're rushing through returns.

0 coins

Rental Income Tax Reporting - First Year Property Tips & Schedule E Questions

Hey everyone, I just started renting out a property last year and I'm trying to figure out how to properly fill out my Schedule E in TurboTax. I've got a couple questions I could use some help with. First, I'm not sure if I allocated my HUD-1 closing costs to the right categories for tax purposes. Here's how I categorized them: ABSTRACT AND RECORDING FEES - recording fee (deed) - recording fee (mortgage) LEGAL FEES, TITLE SEARCH, DOCUMENT PREP - application fee - attorney review fee - credit report fee - flood certification - title - closing agent fee - title - searches and misc - title - settlement/closing - borrower attorney fee LAND SURVEY - appraisal fee TITLE INSURANCE - title - lenders title insurance - title - owners title insurance TRANSFER OR STAMP TAXES - tax service fee I didn't include these fees since I wasn't sure if they qualify: - administration fee to building management - move in fee - working capital contribution to building Second question: TurboTax calculated my cost basis as $134,628 with a $257 rental expense deduction. Does that sound right based on these details? - Property rented from 10/1-12/31 - Rental income: $14,000 - Real estate taxes: $5,100 (full year) - Insurance premiums: $2,000 - Repairs: $450 - Cleaning/maintenance: $4,000 - Mortgage interest: $11,500 (selected qualified interest) - Utilities: $400 - Supplies: $80 - Misc expenses: $130 - Purchase price: $520k - FMV: $535k (Zillow showed higher but went with something conservative) - Bathroom renovation just before renting: $15k - Property tax assessment: $215,000 for land and $100,000 for improvements - Selected "not qualified business income" Really appreciate any help with this!

Khalil Urso

•

Don't overthink the building management fees! I spent hours researching this same question last year. The admin fee and move-in fee are definitely deductible in year 1 as rental expenses. The working capital contribution is trickier - technically it's a deposit into the building's reserve, so it's not immediately deductible. Also, make sure TurboTax is prorating your expenses correctly for the partial year. For things like property taxes and insurance, you can only deduct the portion that applies to when the property was actually a rental (Oct-Dec in your case). So that would be 3/12 of your annual amounts. This might be why some of your numbers look off.

0 coins

Myles Regis

•

For the working capital contribution specifically, I believe you can deduct it when the building actually spends the money on deductible expenses. My condo sends me a statement each year showing what portion of my contribution was used for repairs vs. capital improvements, which helps for tax purposes.

0 coins

I had a very similar situation with my first rental property! Your cost basis calculation is definitely off - with a $520k purchase price, that $134,628 figure suggests there's an input error somewhere in TurboTax. A few things to double-check: 1. Make sure you entered the correct land/building allocation. Based on your tax assessment ($215k land, $100k improvements), you should allocate roughly 68% to land and 32% to building from your purchase price. 2. Verify you didn't accidentally enter a partial ownership percentage or put in the wrong purchase price. 3. The bathroom renovation ($15k) should be added to your depreciable basis since it was done before placing in service. Your depreciable basis should be approximately: ($520k - $353k land value) + $15k renovation = ~$182k for the building portion. For the closing costs, most of what you listed (recording fees, title insurance, legal fees) get capitalized into your basis rather than expensed immediately. The admin fee and move-in fee to building management can typically be expensed in year 1, but the working capital contribution is usually treated as a capital asset. Also make sure TurboTax is correctly prorating your expenses for the 3-month rental period (Oct-Dec). Your actual deductible expenses should be much higher than $257 for three months of operation.

0 coins

Thanks Isabella! This is really helpful. I think you might have the land/building allocation backwards though - my tax assessment shows $215k for land and $100k for improvements, so wouldn't that mean land is about 68% and building is 32%? That would make my depreciable basis even lower at around $166k + $15k renovation = $181k, which is still way higher than the $134k TurboTax is showing me. I'm definitely going to go back and check all my inputs carefully. The prorating issue makes a lot of sense too - $257 in deductions for 3 months of expenses seemed way too low when I have thousands in actual costs. One more question - when you say the closing costs get "capitalized into basis," does that mean they get added to the $520k purchase price for depreciation purposes, or do they affect the calculation differently?

0 coins

Ellie Perry

•

I'm dealing with a very similar situation with my raw land investment, and after going through this whole process last tax season, I wanted to share what I learned that might help you avoid some mistakes I made. First, you're absolutely right to be thinking about this now - documentation is everything with raw land improvements. The IRS is particularly strict about these deductions because so many people try to inappropriately deduct capital improvements as current expenses. Your gate, road work, and electrical installation are definitely capital improvements that must be added to your cost basis. However, don't overlook the expenses you CAN deduct currently: property taxes you've paid, interest on any loans used for the purchase or improvements, and professional fees (surveys, legal, etc.). One thing I wish I'd known earlier - start tracking whether your improvements are "land improvements" versus potential "depreciable assets" for when you eventually develop. Your underground electrical work, depending on how it's installed, might have components that qualify for depreciation once you build and place rental property in service. Also consider whether you want to explore any income-generating activities on the property (like the hunting leases someone mentioned) that could change your tax treatment. Even small amounts of income can sometimes shift how the IRS views your property from pure investment to income-producing. Keep every receipt, take photos, and document the business purpose of each expense. When you eventually sell or develop, this preparation will save you thousands in taxes and potential audit headaches.

0 coins

This is such helpful practical advice! I'm curious about the income-generating activities you mentioned - how much income would typically be needed to shift the IRS's view from "pure investment" to "income-producing"? I have a similar raw land situation and was thinking about maybe allowing some camping or ATV use for a small fee, but wasn't sure if occasional small amounts of income would actually help with the tax situation or just complicate things. Did you end up pursuing any income activities on your property, and if so, what was your experience with how it affected your tax treatment?

0 coins

Great question about income thresholds! There's actually no specific dollar amount that automatically changes your property's tax classification - it's more about demonstrating a genuine profit motive and regular business activity. From what I learned through my research and CPA consultations, even small amounts of income can help establish that you're holding the property for "production of income" rather than pure investment speculation. Activities like camping fees, hunting leases, or ATV permits can work, but the key is showing consistency and business-like operations. I ended up doing seasonal hunting leases on my property - nothing huge, maybe $1,200-1,500 per year. But I treat it like a real business: written lease agreements, liability insurance, basic maintenance related to that activity. This helped me justify deducting some ongoing maintenance expenses and a portion of property taxes as business expenses. The income itself isn't life-changing, but having that business activity documentation gives me much stronger footing for any expense deductions and shows the IRS I'm actively managing the property for income, not just holding it hoping it appreciates. Just make sure whatever you do is legitimate and well-documented - the IRS can smell hobby activities from a mile away!

0 coins

Myles Regis

•

I've been through a similar situation with my raw land investment, and I want to emphasize something that saved me from making a costly mistake. While everyone is correctly pointing out that your improvements need to be capitalized, make sure you're not accidentally capitalizing expenses that you CAN deduct currently. I was initially capitalizing everything because I was scared of getting it wrong, but my tax professional showed me I was missing legitimate current deductions like the property taxes I'd been paying, interest on the acquisition loan, and even some professional fees for surveys and legal consultations related to the improvements. Also, keep detailed records of the exact nature of each improvement. Your $12,500 electrical work, for example - if part of that was just getting service to your property line versus installing infrastructure for future buildings, those might be treated differently down the road. The utility company should have itemized billing that shows connection fees versus infrastructure installation. One more tip: if you're planning to eventually develop this into rental property, consider consulting with a tax professional who specializes in real estate development now rather than waiting. They can help you structure your documentation and future improvements in ways that maximize your depreciation benefits once you do start developing. The upfront consultation cost is tiny compared to the potential tax savings over the life of the investment.

0 coins

Prev1...679680681682683...5643Next