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Quick tip from someone who's been freelancing for 15+ years: start including a damage clause in your contracts! I specifically have language that states any reimbursements for damaged equipment are not considered income and will not be reported on tax forms. It's saved me from this exact headache multiple times. Most clients don't even notice it when signing, but it gives you something concrete to point to when their accounting department tries to 1099 you for reimbursements. Worth adding to your contracts going forward!
Do you have an example of the language you use? I'm updating my contract template and would love to include something like this.
This is a great discussion with solid advice from everyone! I'm dealing with a similar situation right now where a client damaged some lighting equipment during a corporate shoot. Reading through all these responses really helped clarify my options. I'm definitely going to try contacting their accounting department first to explain that it should be treated as property damage reimbursement, not service income. If that doesn't work, the backup plan of reporting it as income but then deducting the exact repair amount on Schedule C makes sense as a safety net. The contract clause suggestion from Kelsey is brilliant - I'm definitely adding that to my standard agreement going forward. Prevention is always better than having to fix these issues after the fact! Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and solutions. This community is incredibly helpful for navigating these tricky tax situations that come up in freelance work.
Great summary, Mason! I'm new to freelancing and this whole thread has been incredibly educational. I had no idea that reimbursements could be misclassified on tax forms like this. One thing I'm curious about - for those who've dealt with this before, how do you typically document the damage when it happens? Should I be taking photos, getting written acknowledgment from the client, or both? I want to make sure I have proper documentation from the start in case something like this ever happens to me. Also, does anyone know if this same principle applies to other types of reimbursements, like if a client covers travel expenses that I initially paid out of pocket?
i messed this up last year and got audited!!! make sure ur using cash accounting not accrual. sounds like u want cash method so u can deduct when u pay not when u get the stuff. my tax guy says most of us freelancers use cash method anyway its easier
How bad was the audit? I'm always terrified of making a mistake that will trigger one. Did they just make you pay the difference or were there penalties too?
This is a great question that trips up a lot of freelancers! Since you're filing Schedule C as an independent contractor, you're almost certainly using the cash method of accounting (unless you specifically elected accrual method with the IRS, which is rare for freelancers). With cash method accounting, you deduct business expenses in the tax year you actually make the payment, not when you receive the goods or services. So in your case, if you take the equipment home this weekend but don't pay until January/February 2025, you would claim this $2,800 deduction on your 2025 tax return. Just make sure to keep detailed records of: - The purchase agreement showing the buy-now-pay-later terms - When you actually received the equipment - All payment receipts when you start making payments in 2025 This timing strategy is perfectly legitimate and sounds like it aligns well with your tax planning goals. The key is being consistent with your accounting method and having good documentation to support the timing of your payments.
This is really helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation with some photography equipment I've been eyeing. One thing I'm curious about - does it matter if the "buy now, pay later" arrangement is through the store's financing or through a third-party service like Klarna or Affirm? I assume the principle is the same since you're still not actually paying until later, but want to make sure there aren't any gotchas with different types of payment arrangements.
I actually went through this exact situation two years ago and can confirm that yes, you'll absolutely still get credit for all the taxes that have already been withheld this year. The IRS doesn't care about the timing of when taxes were withheld - they just look at your total annual income versus total withholding when you file. One thing that really helped me was calculating my "breakeven point." I looked at what I'd already had withheld, estimated my total tax liability for the year, and figured out exactly how much I needed to set aside from each remaining paycheck. This prevented both overpaying and underpaying. Also, don't forget to submit a new W-4 to your employer to make the change official. Some people think they can just tell payroll verbally, but you need the paperwork on file. And if you're married or have dependents, double-check that going exempt won't mess up any credits you're planning to claim - sometimes having zero withholding can affect things like the Child Tax Credit advance payments if you're receiving those. The financial discipline aspect you mentioned is key. I found it helpful to treat my "tax savings" like any other bill - set up automatic transfers so the money never feels like it's available to spend.
This is really helpful advice, especially the point about calculating a "breakeven point"! I hadn't thought about looking at it that way but it makes perfect sense to figure out exactly what I need from each remaining paycheck rather than just guessing. The reminder about submitting the actual W-4 form is important too - I definitely would have assumed I could just tell HR verbally. Good thing you mentioned that! I don't have dependents but I am married, so I'll definitely need to double-check how this affects our overall tax situation. We usually file jointly but my spouse has different withholding preferences, so I want to make sure my change doesn't create any unintended consequences for our combined return. The automatic transfer approach seems to be the consensus recommendation from everyone who's actually done this successfully. I'm convinced that's the way to go to avoid the temptation to spend that extra money from each paycheck.
I went through this exact same decision process last year and can share what I learned! Yes, you'll definitely still get credit for all the taxes already withheld - the IRS treats your annual tax return as a reconciliation of total income vs total withholding for the entire year, regardless of when those withholdings occurred. A few practical tips that made the transition smoother for me: 1. **Calculate your effective tax rate first** - Look at last year's return and divide your total tax by your total income. This gives you a baseline percentage to save from each paycheck. 2. **Account for timing** - Since you're switching mid-year, calculate how much you've already paid versus how much you'll owe, then divide the remaining amount by your remaining paychecks. 3. **Set up separate savings immediately** - I opened a high-yield savings account specifically for taxes and automated transfers. The interest you earn on that money is a nice bonus compared to giving the IRS an interest-free loan. 4. **Review quarterly** - I checked my progress every 3 months using tax software to make sure I was still on track, especially important if you get bonuses or overtime. The peace of mind from having more control over your cash flow is worth it, but definitely respect the discipline required. Make sure that automatic savings transfer happens before you get used to seeing the bigger paychecks!
This is such a comprehensive breakdown - thank you! I really appreciate the step-by-step approach you've outlined. The idea of calculating my effective tax rate from last year's return is brilliant and gives me a concrete starting point rather than just guessing at percentages. Your point about the quarterly reviews is something I hadn't fully considered but makes total sense, especially since my income can fluctuate with overtime and occasional bonuses. It's reassuring to know that even with mid-year changes, the math still works out as long as I stay disciplined about the savings. The high-yield savings account specifically for taxes is definitely the way I'm going to go. I love the idea of actually earning interest on money that would otherwise just be sitting with the IRS earning nothing. It's like getting paid to manage my own tax withholding! I'm feeling much more confident about making this change now. The automatic transfer setup seems to be the key thing everyone who's done this successfully emphasizes. Thanks for sharing your real experience with this!
I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now with a failed tech startup LLC. Based on what I've learned from my research and conversations with tax professionals, here are a few key points that might help: First, the timing matters a lot. You generally have 3 years from when you filed your original return to claim a refund via amended returns, but there's an exception for worthless securities that extends this to 7 years from the original due date. This could be crucial for your situation since it's been several years. Second, you'll want to establish the exact year the investment became worthless. This isn't necessarily when the company officially closed, but when it became clear there was no reasonable prospect of recovery. Based on your description, this sounds like it happened when the managing partners abandoned the company. Third, gather any evidence you can find that shows you made reasonable efforts to get information or recover your investment. Emails to the managing partners, attempts to contact the registered agent, anything that shows you tried to determine the status of your investment before claiming it as worthless. The fact that another investor successfully claimed these losses is encouraging - it shows there's precedent for your situation. I'd strongly recommend finding an accountant or tax attorney who has experience with partnership abandonments rather than trying to handle this with someone who isn't familiar with these specific rules. Also document everything thoroughly because the IRS may have questions about why you're claiming losses without K-1s, especially if it triggers any audit flags.
This is really comprehensive advice, thank you! The 7-year rule for worthless securities is something I hadn't heard before - that could be a game changer for my situation since it's been about 5 years. Do you know if that 7-year exception applies specifically to LLC interests, or is it just for traditional securities like stocks and bonds? I want to make sure I understand this correctly before getting my hopes up about being able to go back further than 3 years. Also, you mentioned establishing the exact year it became worthless - in my case, the managing partners bailed around 2020 but the company technically wasn't dissolved until 2021. Would I claim the loss for 2020 when it became clear there was no recovery prospect, or 2021 when it was officially over? This timing could affect which tax years I need to amend.
Great questions! The 7-year rule for worthless securities does apply to LLC interests, but there's a catch - it depends on how the IRS classifies your LLC investment. If it's treated as a security (which most passive LLC investments are), then you get the extended period. If it's classified as a business investment, you might be stuck with the regular 3-year limitation. For the timing question, you'd generally claim the loss in the year it became worthless from an economic standpoint, not when it was legally dissolved. So in your case, that would likely be 2020 when the managing partners abandoned it and it became clear there was no reasonable prospect of recovery. The IRS looks at when a "reasonable person" would have concluded the investment was worthless. This is actually really important because it determines which tax year you amend. You'd want to claim the loss on your 2020 return (via amended filing) rather than waiting until 2021. The fact that the company wasn't officially dissolved until 2021 doesn't matter as much as when the economic reality made it clear the investment was toast. I'd definitely recommend documenting the timeline carefully - emails, news about the company's troubles, when partners left, etc. This helps establish that 2020 was the right year to claim the loss.
I'm sorry to hear about your situation - it's frustrating when you trust your accountant to handle something this important and they just ignore it. You're definitely not alone in this type of mess. Based on what others have shared here, it sounds like you have several viable options for claiming these losses even without K-1s. The key seems to be treating this as an "abandonment loss" since there's clearly no one left to manage the LLC or generate proper tax documents. From what I'm reading, you'll want to: 1. Gather all your original investment documentation (bank statements, operating agreements, any old K-1s) 2. Document your attempts to get information from the defunct company 3. Calculate your tax basis (what you invested minus any prior losses claimed) 4. File amended returns for the appropriate tax years The timing aspect that others mentioned is crucial - you need to determine exactly which tax year the investment became worthless. This sounds like it happened when the managing partners abandoned the company, not necessarily when it was legally dissolved. I'd strongly recommend finding a new accountant who actually has experience with partnership abandonments. Your current one clearly isn't equipped to handle this situation. The fact that another investor successfully claimed similar losses shows this is definitely doable with the right expertise. Don't let this drag on any longer - you've already lost several years of potential tax benefits because of your accountant's negligence.
This is such valuable advice, especially about finding a new accountant with the right experience. I'm curious about one thing though - when you mention calculating your tax basis, how do you handle situations where some of the early K-1s might have reported losses that reduced your basis over time? I have my first couple years of K-1s before everything fell apart, but I'm not sure how to properly calculate what my adjusted basis was when the company became worthless. Do you just subtract any Schedule E losses you claimed in prior years from your original investment amount?
You're exactly right about calculating adjusted basis! You take your original investment amount and subtract any losses you've already claimed on prior tax returns (typically reported on Schedule E from those K-1s you received). You also subtract any distributions you received that weren't already taxed. So if you originally invested $50,000 and claimed $8,000 in losses over the first couple years, plus received $2,000 in distributions, your adjusted basis when the company became worthless would be $40,000 ($50,000 - $8,000 - $2,000). This is where having those early K-1s is really helpful - they show exactly what losses and distributions were reported. Make sure you pull your actual tax returns from those years too, because sometimes accountants don't claim the full losses due to basis limitations or passive activity rules. One thing to watch out for - if your basis had already been reduced to zero by prior losses, you might not have any additional loss to claim when the investment became worthless. But given that you mentioned the company was doing fine initially, this probably isn't an issue in your case. Keep all this documentation organized because the IRS will want to see how you calculated your claimable loss amount.
Javier Garcia
I'm dealing with a very similar situation but with a different twist - I won $650 from FanDuel but it was spread across multiple small wins over a few months rather than one big bet. I never received any tax forms either. From all the great advice here, it sounds like I still need to report the full amount regardless of how I won it or whether I got forms. My question is: should I report this as one lump sum of $650 in gambling winnings, or do I need to break it down by each individual winning bet? I can access my FanDuel account and see the transaction history, but there were probably 8-10 different winning bets ranging from $25 to $180 each. For TurboTax purposes, I'm assuming I just enter the total amount as gambling winnings from FanDuel, but wanted to double-check since my situation is a bit different from the original poster's single big win. Also, I had some losing bets too during that same period - probably lost about $400 total. Based on what others mentioned about needing to itemize to claim gambling losses, it doesn't sound like it would be worth it for me since I'd be taking the standard deduction anyway. Just wanted to confirm that's the right approach. Thanks for all the helpful information in this thread - it's exactly what I needed to figure out how to handle this properly!
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Savannah Vin
ā¢You're exactly right on both counts! For TurboTax, you just need to report the total amount ($650) as gambling winnings from FanDuel - you don't need to break it down by individual bets. The IRS wants to know your total gambling income for the year, not the details of every single wager. And yes, you're correct about the gambling losses too. Since you'd be taking the standard deduction anyway, itemizing just to claim $400 in gambling losses wouldn't make financial sense. You'd need your total itemized deductions to exceed the standard deduction amount for it to be worth it, which is $13,850 for single filers in 2024. Since you can access your FanDuel transaction history, definitely take screenshots of all those wins and losses for your records. Even though you're not claiming the losses on your return, having that documentation is still valuable in case you're ever questioned about the winnings amount. Your approach is spot-on - report the $650 total as gambling winnings and take the standard deduction. Keep good records and you'll be all set!
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Andre Moreau
I work as a tax preparer and see this exact situation all the time, especially with sports betting becoming more popular. You're absolutely doing the right thing by wanting to report this income! Since you won $800 from a single bet, FanDuel wasn't required to send you a W-2G (which is typically for winnings of $1,200+ from slot machines or $5,000+ from poker). However, you're still legally required to report ALL gambling winnings as income. In TurboTax, go to the "Income" section and look for "Less Common Income" or "Additional Income Sources." Select "Gambling, Lottery, and Prize Winnings." There should be an option like "I don't have a tax form" or "Enter without a form." You'll just need to enter: - Payer: FanDuel - Amount: $800 - Type: Sports betting winnings Keep your bank statement showing the deposit from FanDuel as documentation. If you can still access your FanDuel account, screenshot your transaction history showing the winning bet and withdrawal - this creates a nice paper trail in case you're ever audited. The IRS actually prefers taxpayers who proactively report income without forms rather than those who try to hide it. You're showing good faith compliance with tax law, which is always the right approach. Don't worry about getting "flagged" - millions of people report gambling winnings this way every year!
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Ashley Adams
ā¢This is really helpful coming from a tax professional! I'm actually in a very similar boat - won about $900 from BetMGM on a single NFL bet earlier this year and never got any forms either. One quick follow-up question: when you mention keeping bank statements as documentation, should I also keep any screenshots from the betting app itself? I can still log into my BetMGM account and see the winning bet details, but I'm not sure if app screenshots would be considered reliable documentation by the IRS or if they'd prefer more "official" records like bank statements. Also, is there any benefit to calling the IRS directly to let them know I'm reporting gambling winnings without forms, or is that unnecessary? I want to be as transparent as possible but don't want to create extra work for myself if it's not needed. Thanks for the professional insight - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who deals with these situations regularly!
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