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23 Quick question - how big was this lump sum payment roughly? Because Social Security Disability payments are only taxable if your total income exceeds certain thresholds. For an individual, if your combined income (adjusted gross income + nontaxable interest + half of Social Security benefits) is under $25,000, then 0% of benefits are taxable.

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17 This is exactly what causes the confusion! While regular monthly payments might not hit that threshold, a large lump sum payment can push someone over it for that specific year, even if they're normally well below it. My mother got a $47,000 back payment and it definitely triggered tax liability even though her monthly checks aren't taxable.

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Paolo Conti

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This is such a stressful situation, and unfortunately your cousin got some really bad advice from whoever she spoke with at Social Security or the IRS. Large lump sum disability back payments can definitely trigger tax liability even when regular monthly payments aren't taxable. The good news is there are several options available. First, she should absolutely file the required tax return even if she can't pay - the penalties for not filing are much worse than for filing and not paying. Then she can pursue payment options like an installment agreement or potentially an Offer in Compromise if she truly can't afford the full amount. Most importantly, she might be able to use the "lump sum election" to allocate the back payments to the years they were originally intended for, which could significantly reduce the tax burden by spreading it across multiple years instead of having it all count as income in one year. I'd strongly recommend she contact the Taxpayer Advocate Service (they're free and specialize in hardship cases) or get help from a tax professional who understands disability payments. Don't let her ignore this - the IRS is actually pretty reasonable about working with people on disability who genuinely can't pay, but she needs to be proactive about communicating her situation to them.

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Luca Romano

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Thank you for this comprehensive overview! Just to add - when dealing with the IRS on disability-related tax issues, it's really important to emphasize the disability status and fixed income situation right upfront in any communications. The IRS has specific protocols for taxpayers with disabilities and limited incomes that can make a huge difference in how they handle the case. Your cousin should mention her disability status when filing any payment plan requests or hardship applications, as this often qualifies her for more favorable terms and lower minimum payments than what would be offered to other taxpayers.

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar position - been doing individual returns through VITA but want to expand to business taxes. One thing I'm wondering about is the time commitment for each program. Nina, with your corporate accounting background, you're probably already familiar with a lot of the underlying concepts that trip up people without that experience. I'd be curious to hear from others who made this transition - did having corporate accounting experience make the business tax courses easier to get through? Also, for those who've taken either program, what's the typical timeline from starting the course to feeling confident enough to prepare your first real business return? I'm trying to plan this around my current work schedule and want to set realistic expectations.

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James Maki

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Great question about the timeline! I'm actually just starting to research these programs myself, but from what I'm reading here, it sounds like having corporate accounting experience like Nina has would definitely be an advantage. I'm curious about the same thing regarding time commitment. Between work and family, I can probably dedicate maybe 10-15 hours per week to coursework. Does anyone know if either program is more flexible for working around a busy schedule? Are the courses self-paced or do they have fixed schedules? Also, Nina, I'd love to hear your thoughts on this since you mentioned having 8 years of corporate accounting experience. Are you finding that background helpful as you research these options?

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I went through both programs and can speak to the time commitment question. Intuit Academy's business tax courses are completely self-paced, which was perfect for my schedule. I was able to knock out most modules in about 6-8 weeks dedicating roughly 12 hours per week. The courses are broken into bite-sized segments so you can easily fit them around work. H&R Block has more structure - some of their business tax modules have scheduled webinars and group sessions, though they do offer recorded versions. It took me closer to 10-12 weeks to complete their program at a similar time commitment. For someone with corporate accounting experience like Nina, I'd estimate you could probably move through either program faster than average. The concepts around depreciation, basis calculations, and financial statement integration will already be familiar to you. My background was purely individual tax prep, so I had to learn a lot of the underlying accounting concepts from scratch. One tip: whichever program you choose, try to schedule your completion so you finish right before tax season starts. That way the knowledge is fresh and you can immediately start applying it in a real environment, whether through part-time work or volunteer opportunities with small business clients.

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This timing advice is really smart! I hadn't thought about coordinating the course completion with tax season, but that makes perfect sense. There's probably nothing worse than finishing a course in May and then trying to remember everything 10 months later. For those of us just getting started with this decision, do you think it's worth reaching out to local firms BEFORE starting either program? I'm wondering if talking to potential employers might help inform which program would be more valuable in my specific market. Some areas might heavily favor one software platform over another. Also, MoonlightSonata, when you say "volunteer opportunities with small business clients" - are there organizations like VITA but focused on business returns? I hadn't heard of anything like that but it sounds like it could be great practice.

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my Roth IRA was transferred between firms in September, and I've been getting conflicting information from both companies about who's responsible for the 1099-R. One thing I discovered that might help others - if you have online access to both your old and new accounts, check the "Tax Center" or "Tax Documents" section on both websites. Sometimes the forms are available for download before they're mailed, and you can see if there are any pending corrections or amendments. Also, for anyone waiting on complex investment forms (like K-1s from REITs or partnerships), those can legally come as late as September 15th if the investment company files extensions. I learned this the hard way last year when I filed early and then had to amend my return three times as corrected forms kept trickling in. The IRS wage and income transcript tip from Andre is golden - I just checked mine and found a 1099-INT from a bank account I'd completely forgotten about that earned $12 in interest. It's amazing how these small forms can slip through the cracks!

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Mason Davis

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Great point about checking the online tax centers! I just logged into both my old and new brokerage accounts and found that my corrected 1099-B was actually available for download even though they hadn't mailed it yet. The September 15th deadline for K-1s is something more people should know about - I made the same mistake of filing early only to get multiple corrections later. Now I always wait until at least mid-March if I have any partnerships or REITs in my portfolio. That's such a good catch on the forgotten bank account! I should probably run through the transcript myself - I closed a few small accounts last year and completely forgot they might generate 1099-INTs for the partial year. Thanks for sharing your experience with this whole process!

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This is such a comprehensive thread - thank you everyone for sharing your experiences! As someone who's been through multiple account transfers over the years, I wanted to add a few more practical tips that have saved me headaches: First, if you're dealing with transferred accounts, create a simple spreadsheet tracking what forms you received last year versus what you've gotten so far this year. This helps you spot patterns - for example, if you got a 1099-DIV from XYZ mutual fund last year but haven't seen one yet, that's a red flag. Second, don't overlook small amounts. I once spent weeks trying to reconcile my taxes because I was missing a $3 1099-DIV from a fractional share that got liquidated during a transfer. The IRS computers don't care if it's $3 or $3000 - they just want the numbers to match. Finally, if you have a tax preparer, give them a heads up about the account transfers BEFORE your appointment. They can often spot missing forms that you might not think of, and they may have contacts at the major brokerages who can expedite missing forms. My CPA has saved me from filing incomplete returns multiple times just by asking the right questions about my investment activity. The tools mentioned here like taxr.ai and Claimyr sound really helpful - I'm definitely going to check them out for next year's tax season!

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Jay Lincoln

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Don't forget to check if you qualify for the Earned Income Tax Credit! If your income is low, you might qualify for this credit which could give you money back even if you didn't pay any taxes. I only worked for 6 weeks in my first year in the US and still got about $560 back because of this credit.

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Is there a minimum time you need to be in the US to qualify for that credit? I arrived in October.

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Jay Lincoln

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For the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC), there's no minimum time you need to be physically present in the US, but you do need to be a US citizen or resident alien for the entire tax year to qualify. Since you arrived in October, you'd be considered a part-year resident for 2024, which unfortunately means you wouldn't be eligible for the EITC this year. However, you should be eligible for it next year (2025 tax year) if you stay in the US all year and meet the income requirements. The good news is there might be other credits you could qualify for even as a part-year resident, like certain education credits if you paid for courses, or the foreign tax credit if you paid taxes in another country earlier in the year.

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As someone who also just moved to the US recently, I want to add that it's really important to keep track of ALL your tax documents from your first year here. Beyond just your W-2, make sure you save records of any foreign income you might have earned before arriving in the US, especially if you're from a country that has a tax treaty with the US. Also, if you opened any US bank accounts that earned interest (even just a few dollars), you'll get 1099-INT forms that you'll need for filing. I made the mistake of not keeping track of a small savings account and had to scramble to get the documents later. One more tip - if you're planning to stay in the US long-term, consider getting familiar with tax software or services now while your situation is relatively simple. It only gets more complicated as you establish more financial ties here (buying a house, investing, etc.).

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This is such great advice! I wish I had known about keeping track of foreign income when I first arrived. I'm curious though - do you know if there's a minimum amount of foreign income that needs to be reported? I had a part-time job back home for the first few months of 2024 before moving here, but it was only like $2,000 total. Do I still need to include that on my US tax return? Also, regarding the tax treaty benefits you mentioned - how do you even figure out what applies to your specific country? Is that something the IRS provides guidance on or do you need to research your home country's tax authority?

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I went through something very similar about 3 years ago and want to share a few things I learned that might help you avoid some pitfalls I encountered. First, the cost basis calculation everyone's discussing is correct - your new basis will be roughly $1,147,500 (your original $497.5K plus the $650K buyout). But here's what caught me off guard: make sure you get a professional appraisal done RIGHT when the buyout happens, not just rely on estimated market values. I used a rough estimate and later had issues when I sold because the IRS wanted documentation of the actual fair market value at the time of transfer. Second, regarding the loan from your parents - definitely structure it as a formal loan with proper interest rates and documentation. I made the mistake of doing an informal arrangement and it created complications later. The IRS has specific "Applicable Federal Rates" that change monthly - make sure you use at least the minimum rate for the month you close the loan. Also, consider the timing of when you might sell. If you're planning to sell within a few years, you might want to think about whether it makes financial sense to buy her out at current market value versus just selling now and splitting the proceeds. With your numbers, if you sell in 2-3 years and the house appreciates much more, you could end up with a significant capital gains tax bill even with the $250K exclusion. One last thing - make sure your divorce attorney coordinates with a tax professional on the property transfer language. The exact wording in your decree can impact how the IRS treats the transaction.

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Zainab Ahmed

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This is incredibly helpful advice, especially about getting the professional appraisal done right at the time of buyout. I hadn't thought about the IRS wanting specific documentation of fair market value versus just estimates. Quick question about the timing consideration you mentioned - when you say "if the house appreciates much more," what kind of appreciation rate would make the capital gains tax burden outweigh the benefits of keeping the house? I'm trying to run some rough numbers on whether this buyout makes sense versus just selling now and splitting everything. Also, did you end up using a specific type of loan document template for the family loan, or did you have an attorney draft something custom? I want to make sure we get the documentation right from the start.

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Zara Ahmed

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@e3f33a09aed4 Great question about the appreciation rates! From my experience, if you're looking at appreciation above 4-5% annually and planning to sell within 3-5 years, the tax burden can get substantial. In my case, I kept the house for 4 years and it appreciated about 7% per year. Even with the $250K exclusion, I ended up owing around $35K in capital gains taxes. Here's a rough way to think about it: if your house goes from $1.5M to $1.8M over 3 years, your gain would be $300K minus your new basis increase. After the $250K exclusion, you'd still owe taxes on a significant amount at capital gains rates. For the loan documentation, I had an attorney draft a custom promissory note that included the AFR rate, a 10-year term with monthly payments, and proper security interest language. It cost about $800 but was worth it for the peace of mind. Make sure it includes provisions for what happens if you sell the house early - whether the loan accelerates or if your parents get paid from proceeds. The key is making it look and feel like a real commercial loan transaction. My attorney said the IRS looks for things like: consistent monthly payments, market interest rates, consequences for default, and proper documentation of all payments made.

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I'm going through a very similar situation right now and this thread has been incredibly helpful! One thing I wanted to add that I've learned from my tax attorney - make sure you understand the difference between a "transfer incident to divorce" under IRC Section 1041 versus a regular property purchase when structuring this buyout. If the buyout is properly structured as part of your divorce settlement (meaning it's clearly documented in your divorce decree as division of marital property), your ex-wife won't owe any capital gains taxes on her portion when she transfers it to you. This is different from if you were just buying her out outside of divorce proceedings. Also, I'd strongly recommend getting everything finalized before your divorce is actually final. My attorney explained that Section 1041 protections are strongest when the transfer happens as part of the actual divorce process rather than afterward, even if it's clearly related to the divorce settlement. The cost basis calculation everyone has discussed is spot on, but the tax-free transfer aspect for your ex-wife is something worth mentioning to make sure she's comfortable with the arrangement. It might help with negotiations if she knows she won't face immediate tax consequences.

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Miguel Diaz

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This is really important information about Section 1041 that I hadn't fully understood before. Just to clarify - does the timing requirement mean that the actual property transfer and buyout payment need to happen before the divorce decree is signed? Or is it sufficient that the terms are outlined in the decree even if the actual transfer happens shortly after? I'm asking because in our case, it might take a few weeks to arrange the financing from my parents after the divorce is finalized, but we can certainly include all the details about the buyout arrangement in the decree itself. Want to make sure we don't accidentally disqualify ourselves from the Section 1041 protections by having poor timing on the execution. Also, when you mention this being "tax-free" for the ex-spouse - does this apply even when they're receiving cash equal to current market value rather than just transferring their interest for nothing?

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