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Ask the community...

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Has anyone used those document scanning apps for storing tax returns? I have a small apartment and literally no storage space for all these papers. Wondering if a simple phone scan is enough or if I need something more official?

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Sean O'Brien

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I use Microsoft Lens on my phone and it works great! Creates clear PDFs that I store in an encrypted folder. Just make sure to back them up somewhere secure like an encrypted external drive or password-protected cloud storage. Regular phone backups aren't secure enough for tax docs.

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Oliver Becker

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Great question! I just went through this same decluttering process myself. The 3-year rule is generally correct for most situations, but I'd recommend keeping 7 years if you have any of the following: self-employment income, rental properties, significant investment gains/losses, or claimed large deductions. One thing I learned is that if you're married and file jointly, both spouses should keep copies since either could be audited. Also, keep any returns where you carried forward losses (like capital losses or NOLs) until those are fully used up. For shredding - absolutely yes! I bought a cross-cut shredder specifically for this. Don't just toss them in recycling. If you have a lot to shred, some office supply stores and banks offer community shred days where you can bring documents for secure destruction. Pro tip: Before you shred, take a photo of just the first page of each return to keep a basic record of what years you filed, even after the documents are gone.

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CyberSamurai

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If you're filing online with tax software, you don't usually need to worry about this worksheet stuff. Tax software handles all this behind the scenes. Just make sure you enter your 1099-DIV information correctly and the software should apply the correct tax rates to your qualified dividends.

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Not always true! I use TaxAct and last year it messed up my qualified dividends. I had to go in and manually fix it. Always double check the math even with software.

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Fatima Al-Farsi

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I had this exact same confusion when I first started receiving dividend income! The key insight that helped me was understanding that Form 1040 line 3a (qualified dividends) and line 3b (ordinary dividends) work together - line 3a is essentially a "subset" of line 3b. Here's the flow: Your total dividend income goes on line 3b and gets included in your total income calculation. But some portion of those dividends (the qualified ones) get special tax treatment. That's why line 3a exists - to identify how much of your line 3b dividends qualify for the lower capital gains tax rates. The worksheet then separates your income into two buckets: regular income taxed at ordinary rates, and qualified dividends taxed at the preferential rates (0%, 15%, or 20% depending on your tax bracket). This is actually beneficial to you because qualified dividends are taxed much lower than regular income! So you're not missing anything - the form design is just confusing because it doesn't clearly show that line 3a is part of line 3b. Both amounts are already included in your taxable income, but they get different tax treatment.

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Jordan Walker

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This is such a helpful explanation! I'm also new to dividend income and was getting confused by the same thing. One follow-up question - how do I know if my dividends are actually "qualified"? My brokerage statement shows dividends but doesn't specifically say which ones are qualified vs ordinary. Do I need to look somewhere else for that information?

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Axel Far

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This is really helpful information everyone! I'm new to having multiple retirement accounts and had no idea about the combined loan limits. My HR department at my main job told me the same thing Miguel's coworker said - that I could borrow $50k from each plan since they have different sponsors. Reading through all these responses, it sounds like I need to be much more careful about this. The point about what happens if you leave one employer while having outstanding loans from both plans is especially concerning. I was actually considering taking a loan from my 403b to help with some home repairs, but now I'm wondering if I should just stick with one plan or maybe look into other financing options instead. Has anyone found good resources (besides the AI tools mentioned) to double-check what their plan administrators are telling them about loan rules? I want to make sure I'm getting accurate information before making any decisions.

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Great question about finding reliable resources! Beyond the AI tools mentioned, I'd recommend checking the IRS Publication 575 (Pension and Annuity Income) which covers retirement plan loan rules in detail. You can also look at IRS Revenue Ruling 2010-27 which specifically addresses the aggregation rules for loans across multiple plans. The Department of Labor's website (dol.gov) also has some good explanatory materials about retirement plan loans under their Employee Benefits Security Administration section. These official sources will give you the exact regulatory language to reference if your plan administrators give you conflicting information. One more tip - when you do speak with plan administrators, ask them to cite the specific regulation they're referencing. If they can't provide that, it might be worth getting a second opinion. The loan aggregation rules are pretty clear in the tax code, so there shouldn't be much ambiguity about the $50k combined limit across all qualified plans.

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Nia Harris

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Another resource worth checking out is the Summary Plan Description (SPD) for each of your retirement plans. Your plan administrator is required to provide this to you, and it should clearly outline the specific loan provisions for that particular plan. While the IRS sets the overall framework, each plan can have its own additional restrictions. Also, if you're still getting conflicting information after checking the official IRS publications Brandon mentioned, consider reaching out to a fee-only financial planner who specializes in retirement planning. They'll be familiar with the loan aggregation rules and can help you understand how they apply to your specific situation with multiple employers. One last thing - document everything when you speak with plan administrators. If they give you incorrect information and you act on it, having that in writing could be important later. I always follow up phone calls with an email summarizing what was discussed, just to have a paper trail.

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Sean Kelly

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This is all really excellent advice! As someone who's also navigating multiple retirement accounts for the first time, I appreciate how thorough everyone has been with the explanations and resources. The documentation tip is especially smart - I've learned the hard way in other financial situations that verbal advice can be "remembered" very differently later on. Getting everything in writing, especially when dealing with something as important as retirement funds, just makes sense. One follow-up question for the group: when you're documenting conversations with plan administrators, do you find they're generally cooperative about confirming things in writing? Or do some push back when you ask them to email you a summary of what they told you over the phone? I want to be prepared for how to handle that if I run into resistance.

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Zara Rashid

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This is my first year really diving deep into understanding transcript cycles and wow, what a learning curve! I filed on February 15th and have been checking daily with no luck. After reading through all these comments, I'm realizing I might be on a Tuesday cycle instead of the Thursday/Friday one everyone talks about. @Miguel HernΓ‘ndez - thank you for the cycle code tip! I just checked and mine ends in 02, so I'm guessing that means Tuesday updates? Going to stop the daily morning ritual and just check on Tuesday nights from now on. It's crazy how the IRS doesn't explain any of this upfront - we're all just figuring it out through trial and error and community knowledge sharing!

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@Zara Rashid Yes, you re'absolutely right about the cycle codes! I had the same aha "moment when" I finally figured this out. If your cycle code ends in 02, you re'likely on the Tuesday update cycle. It s'so frustrating that the IRS doesn t'provide a simple guide explaining this - like you said, we re'all just stumbling around in the dark until someone shares the knowledge! I ve'been filing taxes for years and only learned about cycle codes last season when I got fed up with the uncertainty. Definitely stick to checking Tuesday nights/Wednesday mornings and save yourself the daily stress. The community here has been a lifesaver for understanding how this whole system actually works!

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Isaac Wright

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a newcomer to really understanding the IRS system beyond just "file and wait." Filed on January 31st and have been in limbo ever since. After reading all these responses, I just checked my transcript for the cycle code @Miguel HernΓ‘ndez mentioned - mine ends in 05, so I'm assuming that puts me on a Friday cycle? It's wild that there's this whole hidden system of cycle codes that determines when we get updates, but the IRS never bothers to explain it anywhere. I've been checking daily like a lot of you, but now I'm going to focus on Friday nights only. Really appreciate everyone sharing their knowledge here - this community is doing the job the IRS should be doing in terms of educating taxpayers about how their own system works!

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Eli Butler

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@Isaac Wright Welcome to the transcript checking club! πŸ˜… You re'right that a cycle code ending in 05 typically means Friday updates. I m'fairly new to understanding all this too, but from what I ve'learned lurking in this community, Friday cycle folks usually see updates late Friday night/early Saturday morning. It s'honestly ridiculous that we have to become amateur IRS researchers just to understand when our own refunds might show up! I filed around the same time as you February (2nd and) felt so lost until I found threads like this. The fact that cycle codes aren t'explained anywhere official is just another example of how the IRS makes everything unnecessarily complicated. At least now you can stop the daily checking madness and focus on Fridays - your stress levels will thank you!

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Daryl Bright

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if he takes the 1099 job, he should factor in the cost of liability insurance! As a 1099 contractor, especially in anything medical-adjacent, he might need professional liability coverage that the W2 employer would otherwise provide. I learned this the hard way and ended up paying $1,200/year for basic coverage.

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Sienna Gomez

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Excellent point. Also don't forget disability insurance. W2 employees often get short-term disability coverage included, but as a 1099 you're on your own if you can't work. That insurance can cost $50-150/month depending on your profession and coverage levels.

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Sofia Martinez

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Based on all the factors mentioned here, the W2 position at $37/hour is clearly the better financial choice for your husband. Here's why: 1. **Tax burden**: As others noted, 1099 contractors pay both sides of FICA taxes (15.3% self-employment tax), while W2 employees only pay half. 2. **Benefits value**: You mentioned the W2 includes health insurance ($520/month saved = $6,240/year), 5 days PTO (~2% of annual salary), and 2% 401k match. That's easily $8,000+ in additional value annually. 3. **Hidden costs**: 1099 work may require liability insurance, disability coverage, and other protections that W2 employment typically includes. 4. **Administrative simplicity**: W2 means less quarterly tax planning, simpler record-keeping, and reduced audit risk. When you factor in the benefits package alone, you're essentially comparing $41+ effective hourly rate (W2 with benefits) versus $40 (1099 with additional tax burden and no benefits). The math strongly favors the W2 position, especially since he's already maintaining his primary 1099 work for that entrepreneurial flexibility.

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Khalil Urso

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This is such a great summary! I'm new to understanding the difference between 1099 and W2 work, and this thread has been incredibly helpful. One question though - when you mention the "2% of annual salary" value for the 5 days PTO, how do you calculate that exactly? Is it just 5 days divided by 260 working days in a year? And does that calculation change if someone works part-time hours or variable schedules? I want to make sure I'm understanding how to properly value PTO when I'm evaluating job offers in the future.

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