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You might want to consider converting your LLC to an S-corporation instead of adding a member. As an S-corp owner, you're required to pay yourself a "reasonable salary" that's subject to payroll taxes, and then you can take additional profits as distributions that aren't subject to self-employment tax. It's a bit more paperwork and you need to file Form 2553 to elect S-corp status, but many small business owners save on taxes this way. Just make sure your salary is reasonable for your industry and role to avoid IRS scrutiny.
I've heard about the S-corp option but wasn't sure if it made sense for a small business like mine. Is there a certain income threshold where it becomes worth the extra hassle and paperwork? And would this help me fix my current situation with the incorrect W2?
S-corps generally start making financial sense once your business profit is around $40,000-$50,000 annually, though this varies by industry. Below that, the savings on self-employment tax often don't outweigh the additional costs (filing separate returns, payroll processing, possibly higher accountant fees). For your current W2 situation, converting to an S-corp now wouldn't retroactively fix the issue. You'd still need to correct the reporting for 2024. However, it would provide a clean path forward for properly paying yourself starting this year. The ideal approach is to fix the past issue separately (either by amending returns or following your accountant's guidance) while setting up the proper structure for the future.
If you're making so little from the business, why even worry about being on payroll? Couldn't you just take owner's draws when needed and report everything on your Schedule C? That's what I do with my LLC and it's way simpler than dealing with payroll.
This is exactly what I do too. I have a real estate LLC and I just take draws when I need money. Pay quarterly estimated taxes and then report everything on Schedule C at tax time. No need for the whole payroll hassle unless you're making serious money.
I only did payroll to get ADP's promotional rate - they had a deal where we got a big discount if we had at least 3 people on payroll. Since I had 2 actual employees, I added myself as the third to save money. I'm fine just taking draws going forward, but now I'm stuck with this incorrect W2 situation for 2024 that I need to fix. Still learning all the LLC tax stuff as I go!
I'm honestly confused about all this withholding adjustment talk. Can someone explain exactly HOW to adjust your withholdings? Do I just go to HR and say "withhold less please" or is there a specific form or something?
You need to submit a new W-4 form to your employer. It's fairly straightforward: 1. You can get the form from your HR department or download it from irs.gov 2. The current W-4 doesn't use "allowances" anymore - instead you directly enter dollar amounts 3. If you want less withheld (bigger paychecks, smaller refund), you'd use Line 4(b) to list deductions or use the worksheet to calculate an additional withholding amount Most payroll systems also have an online tool where you can update your W-4 electronically without filling out the paper form.
This might sound odd, but I intentionally set up my withholdings to get a big refund as a way to protect myself from my spending habits AND my ex. We have a complicated custody arrangement, and I'm worried that if I had more in each paycheck, he'd somehow try to argue for more child support. The tax refund comes after our annual review, so it doesn't factor into the calculations. Plus I use it for a family vacation each summer that creates important memories for my kids.
Not odd at all - I've heard financial advisors call this "defensive financial planning." Sometimes the mathematically optimal choice isn't the best one when you factor in real-world complications. As long as you're making an informed choice rather than just defaulting into it, I think that's totally reasonable.
Just to clarify something important - there's a difference between a qualified employer annuity plan (like a 403b) and actually annuitizing your retirement savings. Many employer "annuity" plans don't automatically provide lifetime income - they're just tax-qualified retirement plans that give you the OPTION to convert to an annuity later, but you don't have to. I think people get confused about this all the time.
Wait, so when my work says I have an annuity plan option, I might not actually get guaranteed income for life? That's literally the only reason I was considering it!
That's exactly right. Many employer "annuity plans" are really just tax-qualified retirement savings vehicles that give you the option to convert to an income annuity when you retire, but don't require you to. When you retire, you typically have several options for what to do with the money - take a lump sum, set up systematic withdrawals, roll it over to an IRA, OR convert it to an income annuity. Unless you specifically choose the annuity option at retirement, you won't automatically get guaranteed lifetime income. I'd suggest asking your HR department for the Summary Plan Description which should clarify exactly what options will be available to you at retirement.
My company added a qualified annuity option last year alongside our 401k. I did some research and ended up splitting my contributions - 10% to 401k invested in index funds for growth and 5% to the annuity for guaranteed income later. Best of both worlds! The annuity portion will give me a base of guaranteed income in retirement, and the 401k gives me growth potential and flexibility. Both are tax-deferred.
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing! Did you find any downsides to splitting contributions this way?
Can you have both a 401k and qualified annuity at the same company? I thought it was usually one or the other. Do they share the same annual contribution limit?
I've used HRB for 6 years now. My experience is they quote low, then add fees. Last year came in with quote of $329, walked out paying $687. I have 2 W2s, a small business (Schedule C), and some investments. The fees accumulate quick: - Each "complex" form (Schedules C, E, etc) +$100-150 - Each 1099 +$30-50 - State returns +$100 - Business expenses +$75 - Casualty loss will definitely be +$200 minimum
Do they still try to sell you that "audit protection" add-on? They always made me feel like I was crazy for not wanting it.
Yes, they push the audit protection hard! It was an extra $45 last year. The preparer made it sound like I was practically guaranteed to get audited without it. I've declined it every year and (knock on wood) never been audited. They also try to upsell their "tax pro review" service which is another $89. Isn't that what I'm already paying them for by going to their office instead of using their software?
Has anyone tried doing their own taxes with software for complicated situations like rental properties and casualty losses? I'm wondering if TurboTax or TaxAct could handle this without costing $700+.
I use FreeTaxUSA for my rental properties and small business. It handles Schedule E perfectly and only costs $15 for state filing (federal is free). For casualty losses, they have a pretty good walkthrough. Saved me at least $600 compared to HRB.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've never heard of FreeTaxUSA - do they offer any support if you get stuck or have questions during the process?
Ravi Patel
Has anyone tried bunching their itemized deductions? I'm thinking about doubling up on charitable donations every other year to get over the standard deduction threshold.
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Freya Andersen
β’Yes! We did this last year and it worked great. Donated to our usual charities plus prepaid some planned donations for this year. Itemized last year and will take standard deduction this year. Saved about $2,300 in taxes by concentrating deductions in one year instead of spreading them out.
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Omar Zaki
Don't forget to look into health savings accounts if you have a high-deductible health plan! Triple tax advantage - tax-deductible contributions, tax-free growth, and tax-free withdrawals for medical expenses. One of the few true tax freebies out there.
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StardustSeeker
β’That's a good point! Do you know if I can open an HSA myself as a contractor? My health insurance is a high-deductible plan but it's not through an employer since I'm self-employed.
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Omar Zaki
β’Absolutely you can! That's actually one of the great things about HSAs - you don't need an employer to open one. As a self-employed person with a qualifying high-deductible health plan (HDHP), you can open an HSA through many banks, investment companies like Fidelity or Vanguard, or specialized HSA providers. Just make sure your health plan qualifies as an HDHP under IRS guidelines. For 2025, that means a minimum deductible of $1,600 for individual coverage or $3,200 for family coverage. The maximum 2025 contribution is $4,150 for individual coverage or $8,300 for family coverage, with an extra $1,000 catch-up contribution if you're 55 or older.
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