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Make sure you're aware of the FAFSA deadlines! The federal deadline is usually June 30th, but many states and colleges have much earlier priority deadlines (some as early as February). Even though the FAFSA only needs your federal tax info, waiting too long could impact your aid eligibility for state grants or institutional scholarships.
Do you know if most schools' financial aid departments can help with FAFSA issues related to taxes? My situation is kinda complicated with late filing too.
Yes, most schools' financial aid offices can definitely help with FAFSA issues related to taxes. They deal with these situations constantly and often have specific procedures for students with unusual tax circumstances. They can sometimes also offer guidance about whether you might qualify for special circumstances consideration if your financial situation has changed since the tax year used for the FAFSA. Don't hesitate to reach out to them directly - they're usually very helpful and can sometimes offer solutions you wouldn't know about otherwise.
Just a heads up - I also use FreeTaxUSA for my federal return for free, but for state taxes, check your state's direct filing options. Many states offer completely free filing directly through their Department of Revenue website. I saved like $15 last year by going directly through my state's website instead of paying FreeTaxUSA for the state return.
Thanks for the tip! I didn't realize states might offer their own free filing options. I'll definitely check out my state's website. Would save me that $25 which is significant when you're a broke student!
To answer the original question from a different angle - while getting close to zero is mathematically optimal, there are actually some psychological benefits to getting a refund that shouldn't be dismissed. For many people, that annual "windfall" becomes their only meaningful savings all year. Yes, it's technically an interest-free loan to the government, but the "forced savings" aspect can be valuable for people who struggle to save otherwise. The key is making an intentional choice rather than just letting your withholding happen by default. If you decide you want a refund as a forced savings mechanism, that's valid! Just recognize that you're prioritizing the psychological benefit over the small amount of interest you might earn.
How much interest are we really talking about though? Like if someone gets a $3000 refund, how much are they actually losing by letting the government hold it?
The interest amount depends on what you would have done with the money instead. Using your $3000 example, if that refund built up gradually over the year (about $250/month): If you'd put it in a high-yield savings account at 3.5%, you'd have earned roughly $60 in interest over the year. Not life-changing, but it's something. If you used that monthly amount to pay down credit card debt at 18% interest, the impact would be much more significant - potentially saving around $300 in interest charges over the year. And if you invested it in the market with an average 7% return (obviously with more risk), that theoretical long-term value would be about $110 in potential growth. So it really depends on your personal financial situation. If you have high-interest debt, the cost of overwithholding is much higher than if you'd just park it in a savings account.
Fun fact: the average tax refund is around $3,200, which means the average taxpayer is letting the government hold about $266 of their money each month. Anyone else find it weird that we've normalized giving interest-free loans to the government?
Something that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you do decide to claim these losses, make sure you're using the right form and method. Gambling losses go on Schedule A as itemized deductions, but ONLY if you're also itemizing other deductions that exceed the standard deduction. If you take the standard deduction (which most people do), you unfortunately can't also claim gambling losses. This trips up a lot of people.
Thanks for mentioning this! I was assuming I could just deduct the losses separately. So if my total itemized deductions (including these gambling losses) don't exceed the standard deduction amount, there's no tax benefit to claiming the losses at all?
That's correct. If your total itemized deductions (mortgage interest, state/local taxes, charitable donations, and gambling losses, etc.) don't exceed the standard deduction ($13,850 for single filers in 2023), then there's no tax benefit to claiming the gambling losses. This is why some regular gamblers make sure to track both their winnings AND losses carefully. The winnings get added to your income regardless, but the losses can only offset that if you itemize.
Has anyone had experience with sports betting specifically on these offshore sites? I've heard those might be treated differently than casino games for tax purposes.
I did some sports betting on offshore sites last year. From what my accountant told me, the IRS doesn't distinguish between types of gambling (sports vs poker vs slots) for tax purposes. It's all considered gambling income/losses. The important thing is documentation.
The whole refund advance industry is basically legalized predatory lending imo. They target people who need money desperately and charge insane fees. I worked for one of the big tax prep chains for two seasons and quit because I felt like I was scamming people. Here's what they don't tell you: - The "no fee" advances are usually only for small amounts ($500-$1000) - Larger advances have fees that equal crazy high interest rates - Your credit score WILL be checked despite what they might imply - Many people get denied AFTER paying prep fees - If there's ANY issue with your return (even minor), you get denied The tax prep fees are also usually inflated to cover the "free" small advances. You're better off filing yourself with free software and waiting the 2-3 weeks for direct deposit.
Thanks for the insider perspective! Quick question - since I already paid and they filed my return, is there any way to still get an advance elsewhere or am I stuck waiting for the normal refund now? My emergency isn't going to wait 3 weeks unfortunately.
Unfortunately, once your return is filed, you can't get an advance from another company. The advance loans are tied to the preparation process, and you can only file once. Your best option now is to track your refund closely using the IRS "Where's My Refund" tool and consider other short-term options for your emergency. If you filed electronically with direct deposit, many refunds are coming through faster than the 21-day estimate this year - I've seen some clients get theirs in 10-14 days. Much better than payday loans or credit card advances, which have even worse terms than refund advances.
Has anyone actually gotten their regular refund faster this year? The IRS site says I'm still "processing" after almost 3 weeks and I've heard nothing.
The IRS is running about on schedule this year for most simple returns, but there are definitely delays for returns with certain credits like EITC or Additional Child Tax Credit. Those are automatically held until mid-February by law. Returns with inconsistencies, verification flags, or identity theft markers also get delayed for manual review. If you're hitting the 21-day mark with no updates, it might be worth contacting the IRS directly to see if there's an issue they're not showing on the tracker.
Edwards Hugo
A couple other things to know about UCO specifically, since I hold it too: 1. It's a 2x leveraged ETF tracking oil futures 2. Because of its structure, it often has significant year-end distributions 3. These distributions can be classified as ordinary dividends, qualified dividends, short-term capital gains, long-term capital gains, or return of capital 4. Each has different tax implications Worth getting the 1099-DIV from your broker and looking at box 2a (capital gain distributions) vs box 1a (ordinary dividends) vs box 3 (return of capital). The difference matters a lot tax-wise!
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Emma Morales
ā¢Thanks, that's super helpful! I just checked my 1099-DIV and you're right - box 3 (return of capital) has a pretty significant number. Does this mean I've been potentially paying taxes on money I didn't need to?
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Edwards Hugo
ā¢Return of capital distributions (box 3) are not immediately taxable - they reduce your cost basis in the ETF instead. So if you bought UCO at $10 per share and received $1 per share as return of capital, your new cost basis would be $9 per share. You only pay taxes on return of capital if it reduces your basis below zero (which is rare), or when you eventually sell the shares. If you've been treating these distributions as taxable income, then yes, you've been overpaying your taxes. You might want to consult with a tax professional about filing amended returns for previous years.
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Gianna Scott
Have you considered tax-loss harvesting? Even with unrealized gains in UCO, you could sell other investments at a loss to offset any realized gains when you do decide to sell some UCO shares. Not applicable right now if you haven't sold anything, but good to keep in mind. Also, holding these assets in a tax-advantaged account like a Roth IRA might be worth considering for future purchases, though leveraged ETFs can be risky for retirement accounts.
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Alfredo Lugo
ā¢Be careful with tax-loss harvesting and wash sale rules though! If you sell something at a loss and buy a "substantially identical" security within 30 days before or after, you can't claim the loss. The IRS definition of "substantially identical" can be murky with ETFs.
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