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Need help understanding 1095-A correction with IRS Publication 974 for marketplace insurance

So I'm totally confused about my tax situation with my health insurance this year. Let me try to explain what happened: I had marketplace insurance (healthcare.gov) for all of 2024. The issue is that I started a new job in late 2023 that offered health insurance after a 60-day waiting period, with a 30-day window to sign up. I could've enrolled in January 2024, but I completely misunderstood what they told us during orientation - I thought the waiting period was 90 days before I could even start the enrollment process. My bad! So I just stayed on my marketplace plan. Here's where I messed up even more - I never went into healthcare.gov to report this job change. I know, I know... stupid mistake. Now I'm doing my taxes through H&R Block, and they're showing I'm getting a $175 federal refund. That seems way off since I'm supposed to repay the premium subsidies I got all year for my marketplace insurance. When I got to the 1095-A section in H&R Block, they asked: "Could anyone in your household have enrolled in another type of insurance that would have covered that person every day of a month they had marketplace insurance?" I answered "Yes" since I could've had employer insurance. Then H&R Block told me: "Since someone in your household could have enrolled in another type of insurance that could have covered that person at the same time as their marketplace policy did, you'll need to refer to IRS Publication 974. Publication 974 will explain how to correct Part III, column B, of your 1095-A when you complete that form in our program." I've been trying to find the right section in Publication 974 that explains how to correct Part III, column B of my 1095-A, but I'm totally lost. Can anyone point me to the specific section in Publication 974 I need to look at or give me any guidance on how to handle this situation? Thanks in advance!!

Don't forget to check if you qualify for any exemptions! Publication 974 has a section about exemptions from the requirement to have health insurance coverage (though the individual mandate penalty is $0 now, this still matters for premium tax credit eligibility). In your case, there might be a short coverage gap exemption if you were transitioning between plans. Also, depending on your income level, there are caps on how much you have to repay for the premium tax credit. Look at the "Repayment Limitation" section of Publication 974 - if your household income is less than 400% of the federal poverty line, there's a maximum amount you'd have to repay based on your income bracket. Worth checking if that applies to you!

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Miguel Diaz

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Thanks for mentioning this! My income is around 350% of the federal poverty line. Do you know roughly what the repayment cap would be at that level? And where exactly is the repayment limitation section in Publication 974?

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The repayment limitation section is in Chapter 5 of Publication 974, usually around page 30-32 depending on which version you're looking at. For income between 300-400% of the federal poverty line, the repayment cap for 2024 is approximately $2,850 if you're filing as single, and about $5,700 if you're filing as married filing jointly. Those are the maximum amounts you'd have to repay regardless of how much premium tax credit you received in advance. Since your income is around 350% FPL, this cap would apply to you, which could save you quite a bit if your total advance payments were higher than that cap.

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CosmicCowboy

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I'm in a similar situation and H&R Block's software is so confusing on this specific issue! Has anyone tried using a different tax software like TurboTax or TaxSlayer for the 1095-A reconciliation? I wonder if they explain the Publication 974 requirements more clearly.

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I used TurboTax for a similar marketplace/employer insurance overlap situation. It was slightly better than H&R Block - it has a guided interview that specifically asks about employer coverage availability month by month. It also directly references the relevant sections of Publication 974 and explains what you need to do more clearly. That said, it still took me a couple hours to figure everything out, and I had to manually look up some information. The interface for entering the 1095-A information is pretty similar across all the major software options.

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CosmicCowboy

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Thanks for the feedback! Think I'll give TurboTax a try - anything that makes this process easier is worth it. Did TurboTax automatically adjust your refund/amount owed when you entered the correct information about employer coverage availability?

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One thing to keep in mind about home office deductions as a partner - the IRS tends to scrutinize these pretty closely. Make sure you have a space that is EXCLUSIVELY used for business. That means no personal use whatsoever. I got audited on this a few years back and had to provide photos and a detailed floorplan of my house to prove my office was a dedicated business space.

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Carmen Lopez

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How detailed did you have to get with your documentation? Did you need to show that you had a separate room entirely, or would a dedicated portion of a room work if it's clearly separated and only used for business?

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You don't necessarily need a separate room, though that's ideal and easiest to defend. A dedicated portion of a room can work if there's a clear division (like a partition) and you can demonstrate that particular area is used exclusively for business. In my audit, I had to provide multiple photos from different angles, measurements, and a floor plan showing the relationship of the office to the rest of the house. I also had to provide a written explanation of how I use the space, when I use it, and affirm that there was no personal use. They were particularly interested in whether there was a TV, bed, or other personal items in the space.

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I'm wondering if the simplified option for home office deduction would be better in your case? You get $5 per square foot up to 300 square feet (max $1,500). Less paperwork and no need to track all those actual expenses. Might be worth calculating both ways to see which gives you the better deduction.

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Dylan Cooper

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The simplified method is definitely easier but often results in a smaller deduction. When I ran both calculations for my 250 sq ft home office, the regular method gave me about $3,800 in deductions while the simplified would have been only $1,250. Worth doing the math both ways.

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PRO TIP: Take photos of your W-2 as soon as you get it! I lost mine last year and had to request a replacement which delayed my filing by 3 weeks. Most employers can reissue them but it's a hassle and takes time. Also, check if your employer offers electronic W-2s through their payroll system (like ADP or Workday). I switched to electronic delivery and now I get mine as soon as they're ready instead of waiting for the mail.

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Zara Ahmed

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Does the electronic version work the same for filing? My tax guy always wants the "official" form and I'm worried the electronic one won't count.

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The electronic version is exactly the same as the paper one for tax filing purposes - it contains all the same information and is considered an "official" form by the IRS. Your tax preparer can use it just like the paper version. I actually find the electronic ones better because there's no risk of faded print that scanners can't read properly. Plus you can download it as a PDF and keep it stored safely without worrying about losing the physical copy. Just make sure you save it somewhere secure since it has your Social Security number on it.

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Luca Conti

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anybody else's employer constantly mess up their W-2?? my last company put the wrong social security number on mine 2 years in a row! had to get corrected ones both times which delayed my refund for months. so frustrating!!

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Nia Johnson

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Last year mine had the wrong state tax withholding amount. Double check all the numbers against your final paystub of the year! Box 1 (wages) and Box 2 (federal tax withheld) are the most important to verify. If there's a mistake, contact HR immediately for a corrected W-2.

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Zane Gray

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One thing nobody's mentioned here - if your content creation is an ongoing business activity (not just a one-time thing), you should probably be making quarterly estimated tax payments going forward. Since platforms don't withhold taxes, you could end up with a penalty if you wait to pay everything at tax time. I learned this the hard way after my first year on YouTube. Had to pay a penalty because I didn't realize I needed to be making payments throughout the year once my income got high enough.

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At what income level do you need to start doing the quarterly payments? I'm just starting out and made like $800 last year from my art channel.

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Zane Gray

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The general rule is if you expect to owe $1,000 or more in taxes for the year (after accounting for any withholding from other jobs), you should make quarterly payments. At $800 total income, you're probably fine waiting until tax time, especially if you have another job with withholding. But as your content income grows, keep an eye on it. Many creators don't realize they need to start making these payments until they get hit with penalties. I recommend setting aside 25-30% of your creator earnings for taxes just to be safe.

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I'm in the same boat - Etsy seller here! One question: do we need to keep track of all those little deposits separately? My platform puts money in my account like 20+ times a month for different sales.

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Monique Byrd

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You don't need to track each individual deposit for tax purposes. What matters is the total income for the year. However, keeping a spreadsheet of your deposits can help you reconcile your total earnings against what the platform reports. What I do is download the annual tax summary from Etsy, which shows gross sales, fees, shipping costs, etc. That's the document you'll use for your Schedule C, not your bank deposits (which won't show fees taken out).

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For your MACRS depreciation homework, I'd recommend creating a simple spreadsheet to track this. I found it helpful to: 1) Create a column for each asset 2) Record acquisition dates and costs 3) Calculate each year's depreciation separately 4) Sum the same-year assets for Form 4562 Then when you fill out line 19c, you just use the total for all 7-year assets acquired that year, but you still have documentation of each individual asset. This approach helped me both understand the concept and have proper supporting documentation.

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Chloe Harris

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That spreadsheet approach sounds really helpful! Do you have any template or example you could share? Also, does your spreadsheet account for the half-year convention that applies in the first year for most MACRS assets?

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I don't have a shareable template, but I can describe how I set it up. I created columns for: Asset Description, Date Acquired, Cost Basis, Recovery Period, and then a row for each year of depreciation showing the percentage and calculated amount. Yes, my spreadsheet definitely accounts for the half-year convention! That's one of the most important aspects of MACRS. For 7-year property, I use the standard MACRS percentages: 14.29% in year 1 (reflecting half-year convention), 24.49% in year 2, 17.49% in year 3, and so on. The spreadsheet automatically applies these percentages to the basis amount.

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Just heads up, don't forget that if any of your 7-year property is used 50% or less for business, you have to use the Alternative Depreciation System (ADS) instead of GDS MACRS. That would change your recovery period and you'd have to use straight line. Made that mistake on a test last semester and lost major points.

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Ethan Clark

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This is only partially correct. The 50% rule doesn't automatically force you to use ADS. It limits your Section 179 expensing, but you can still use regular MACRS for depreciation. The actual rule is that if business use drops BELOW 50%, then you must switch to ADS.

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