


Ask the community...
Another option besides what others mentioned: check if your employer reported your wages electronically to the Social Security Administration. You can create an account on ssa.gov and view your detailed earnings record. This won't have your withholding info, but it will show what wages were reported under your SSN. Also, if you have your final paystub of the year (the last one from December), it should have your year-to-date totals which will give you everything except for what you earned in January. For the unpaid wages, definitely file a complaint with your state labor board. In most states, you can get penalties added on top of your unpaid wages if they don't pay you within a certain timeframe after termination.
I just checked the SSA site like you suggested and was able to create an account! You're right, I can see my earnings there, though it only shows quarterly totals not the withholding info. Super helpful for figuring out what I made before January though! One more question - if I file using Form 4852 with my best estimates and later receive my actual W-2, do I need to amend my return?
Yes, if you receive your W-2 after filing with Form 4852 and notice any significant differences between your estimates and the actual W-2 amounts, you should file an amended return using Form 1040-X. However, if the differences are very small and don't affect your tax liability, the IRS generally doesn't require an amendment. The good news is that most employers electronically report W-2 information to the IRS, so even if you don't have the physical form, the IRS likely has your wage and withholding information in their system. This is why it's so helpful to speak with them directly about your situation.
I used to work in payroll, and just wanted to add - definitely check your last paystub from December because it should have your year-to-date totals for everything (earnings, federal withholding, state withholding, etc). That covers everything except your January earnings. For January, if you got paid via direct deposit, your bank statement will show exactly what you received. Then you just need to figure out the withholding for those January payments. Most payroll systems use the same withholding percentages unless you changed your W-4. So if your federal withholding was consistently 15% of your gross pay, you can apply that same percentage to your January earnings to estimate January's withholding.
Don't overlook the Tax Institute's student guides! They were a lifesaver for me last year. They're written in much more straightforward language than the bigger textbooks and focus on practical applications. Still a bit pricey but worth every cent imo.
Are the Tax Institute guides updated every year? My main concern is spending money on resources that might become outdated with tax law changes.
Yes, they update them annually to reflect the latest tax legislation and rulings. That's actually one of their big selling points - you're getting the most current information, which is crucial in tax accounting where rules change frequently. The recent editions include all the changes from the last federal budget and recent ATO interpretations. Even if you buy last year's edition at a discount, the core concepts remain valid, but for specifics like rates and thresholds, you'd want the current version.
Whatever book you get, supplement it with PwC's tax summaries - they're free online and way more readable than most textbooks. Helped me get thru my taxation subjects without losing my mind lol
I second this! PwC's summaries are gold. Also check out the free CCH IntelliConnect resources if your uni library subscribes - saved me heaps of $$ on books.
Another thing to consider is that if you pay your taxes with a credit card (through H&R Block or any tax software), there's always a processing fee of around 2-3%. So even if you could get cash back on the tax payment (which you can't), you'd still be paying that processing fee which would likely cancel out much of the benefit. I usually just set up direct payment from my bank account through the tax software to avoid those fees completely.
What about using a credit card that gives really good cash back rewards? Would that make sense even with the processing fee? I have a card that gives 2% on everything.
Even with a 2% cash back credit card, you'd basically break even or lose money. The payment processors that handle IRS payments typically charge 1.87% to 3.93% depending on which one you use. If you get 2% back on your card but pay a 2.5% processing fee, you're still losing 0.5% overall. It's generally not worth it unless you have a special promotion or really need to meet a minimum spend requirement for a big bonus on your card.
Has anyone confirmed if the 16% is actually showing up in their Rakuten account after filing? Sometimes these offers have exclusions in the fine print. I saw it advertised but wanted to check if people are actually getting the full amount before I commit to H&R Block.
I filed last week using H&R Block Premium through Rakuten. The 16% cash back showed up in my Rakuten account within 2 days. I paid $89 for the software and got $14.24 cash back. Make sure you click through the Rakuten link directly and complete your purchase in the same session!
Don't forget Box 15 on your 1099-DIV should tell you how to treat the Non-Dividend Distribution. There are different codes that indicate if it's a return of capital (ROC) or something else. Most commonly it's code "R" for return of capital, which is when you reduce your basis. If the amount exceeds your basis, you record a capital gain. It's actually not that complicated once you understand the principle - they're basically returning part of your investment back to you tax-free, but tracking it by reducing your cost basis.
I didn't realize I needed to check box 15! I'll take another look at the 1099-DIV for that code. So assuming it is code "R" as you mentioned, I would just reduce the basis from $8,115 to $7,270 on Form 8949, right? Is there anywhere else I need to note this adjustment?
Yes, that's exactly right. On Form 8949, you'll enter the original cost basis of $8,115 in column (e), then in column (g) you'll enter the adjustment amount of -$845 with code "B" which stands for "Basis adjustment." Then your adjusted basis in the calculation becomes $7,270. Make sure to check the right box at the top of Form 8949 for long-term transactions reported on a 1099-B with basis reported to the IRS. The form has clear instructions for these adjustments, and this way you're documenting exactly why your basis is different from what was reported to the IRS on the 1099-B.
Just a tip - I use FreeTaxUSA for filing and it handles this situation really well. When you enter the 1099-DIV information, there's a specific field for non-dividend distributions. Then when you enter the stock sales info, it prompts you to adjust the cost basis accordingly. Much easier than trying to figure it all out manually. If the distributions are return of capital (which they usually are), the software automatically adjusts the basis. It's saved me a ton of headaches with my investment reporting.
Does FreeTaxUSA handle K-1 forms too? I've got some partnership interests and those forms are a nightmare to deal with manually.
Lucas Kowalski
If you're just copying last year's return, be super careful about the tax brackets and standard deduction amounts! They change every year and using outdated numbers can really mess things up. I tried doing this last year and accidentally used the wrong standard deduction amount (I used $12,950 instead of the updated $13,850). Had to file an amended return which was a huge headache. Also double-check ALL your forms. I received a 1099-INT from a new bank account I opened that I almost forgot about. Little things like that can lead to nasty letters from the IRS later!
0 coins
Olivia Kay
ā¢Thanks for the warning about the standard deduction amounts changing. I totally would have missed that! Do you think it's worth paying for basic tax software rather than literally copying from paper forms? It sounds like there are enough changes that I could mess up.
0 coins
Lucas Kowalski
ā¢Honestly, I'd definitely recommend using software even if it's a basic version. The software will have all the updated numbers, forms, and will do the calculations for you which reduces math errors. Plus it will walk you through questions that might trigger you to remember things like "oh yeah, I did start that savings account" or whatever. Basic tax software is usually around $50-70 for federal and state, which is MUCH cheaper than the $800 you were quoted. It's a good middle ground between completely DIY paper forms and paying a professional. I use FreeTaxUSA now and it's been great - only about $30 total.
0 coins
Olivia Martinez
$800 seems crazy high unless you have a super complicated situation like multiple businesses, rental properties, or foreign income. I switched from an $350 tax preparer to doing it myself with TaxSlayer three years ago and my refund was actually HIGHER because the preparer had been missing some education credits I qualified for!
0 coins
Charlie Yang
ā¢Did you find it difficult to switch to doing it yourself? I'm scared I'll mess something up and get audited.
0 coins